Arc of Attrition recce 27th to 29th October 2019

27th Sunday October. Hayle to Portreath. 12.4 miles, 2 hours 54 mins and 37. 666m of ascent

2 became 1am giving us an hour extra in bed. We’d given up on Shutter Island last night as it was a bit random with bits I didn’t remember from seeing it before. 
Bob was up early enough to get Andy to do a few jobs including turning clocks back but we were off by 8. We had one stop for Kipper as unusually he climbed over the back of the seat. He had a quick wee but obviously hadn’t been desperate.
The roads near the bus stop were jammed packed with people avoiding the £10 for all day parking. On returning back up the hill we found a spot.
The 10:17 bus took us to Camborne and a 15 minute break for the 11:02 to Hayle. We couldn’t find online individual bus leg prices so paid for a 3 day pass at £23 each. Kipper settled on our knees for both journeys. 
First stop was Mr B’s ice cream shop along the front parade of shops. They make their own and had a Halloween theme so Andy chose the Monstrous Mint. I had Fig and Mascarpone which was amazing as it had massive lumps of figs in so I couldn’t miss their amazing taste. That will score highly in my list of additional flavours and dairies before I turn 60! Kipper wasn’t keen as we headed along the seafront even the enticement of a bouncy springer spaniel didn’t get more than a trot out of him. He was much happier when we were out on the cliff tops with sand or grass beneath his paws. 
We were following the route we took last time across this stretch and it showed the times we went past a turn but I remembered the first 2. At another I hesitated but was pleased Andy chose to go round the climb as we’d had to climb over a fence last time to reach a small car park with a cafe. 
We only hesitated a few more times and should have crossed closer to the fence at the boggy area but didn’t add any distance really. The dunes were fine. The rest was fine with only a few ups and downs so we motored along. I thought we’d be nearer 4 hours for the 12.4 miles but were we just under 3. The hardest section was the last mile or so getting into Portreath. Steep downs with awkward steps and steep zigzagged paths. I’m sure the last 3.25 miles to Porthtowan is the same.   There was also a nasty short sharp climb as you reach the road in Portreath as you expect to keep going down hill after the steep down hill on the grassy path.
We’d eaten only half a pasty thinking we could have food at the cafe in Portreath. Andy ordered soup for us to share before 2 rather large scones each with the afternoon tea, amazing!!
Kipper was happy under the table on his blue rug. He didn’t try begging but got a few treats.
We were staying at Torwood House BnB in Penzance, a 30 minute drive away. Kipper was welcome more than us and felt right at home. I was delighted that Andy made sure there was a bath in the room but I panicked slightly not being able to find the plug. 
I had a 2 hour soak then we headed along the sea front to the recommended Dolphin Tavern. Kipper enjoyed a long sniff. We weren’t in a rush. Fish for Andy, 5 bean nachos for me.
We tried to watch a couple of dvds in the room but neither worked so we both read.


28th Monday October
Sennen Cove to Saint Ives
. 22.28 miles, 6 hours 53 mins and 52. 1223m of ascent.

Breakfast was between eight and nine and our bus 845. We had a cooked breakfast and had plenty of time to get to the bus. Kipper started to shake a little having stood on three legs just before the bus stop we weren’t sure if it stopped to have a wee or if he had a sore paw. Andy carried him to the bus and he sat on our knees for the 45 minute drive. He was much more settled when we arrived. Instead of going to Lands End when we realise the bus stopped at Sennen Cove we decided to miss the 2 miles of paved path and head straight onto the real coastal path.
Kipper was only on a lead for a few minutes. Then we were on the sandy tracks heading round the numerous bays. Sennen Cove was stunning as although there were dark clouds the sun was still trying to come through and plenty of people were on the golden sands. Kipper was intrigued watching a surfer heading out towards the sea but also was tempted to run down to play with the dogs. 
During the race our goal was to get to Pendeen Lighthouse before the 9 o’clock cut-off we only just made it. It was good to go over this section again especially making sure we know a clear route across the mining area. We moved at a steady 3 1/2 miles an hour for the 8.8 miles from Sennen Cove to Pendeen Lighthouse. We knew we would then have five hours on race day to get to St Ives. The next section was extremely undulating and rocky underfoot, it was muddier than when we recceed the course in September last year. We both had good grips on our shoes so the mud didn’t bother us but the rocks were slippy. There weren’t many sections but you could get into a good rhythm.
We had a few short sections of showers but none enough for us to stop and put waterproof jackets on until we were a mile outside of St Ives and didn’t want to feel cold on the bus journey home.
We knew the section from Pendeen to St Ives was tough. A friend who was at the Lighthouse with us last year was timed out before he reached St Ives so five hours to do those 12 miles wouldn’t be enough. Here we were with a relatively fresh legs at times we were averaging 2 miles an hour so somehow we need to add at least an extra hour to have any chance of success on race day. I know we left Lands End an hour later than we wanted to because I needed that sleep so that’s what we need to add into our race plan for next year.
The route is mostly straight forward one sign confused us on the outskirts of St Ives but in general it was keep the sea to your left. My diary from last time talked about the last few mile’s being easier, they weren’t. It was only when we hit the tarmac path that we got any speed.
Kipper was a delight all day not going far off the path and loving being between us although was a little close at times and we both kicked his chin!! Andy had most of the treats. I gave him bits from our breakfast sausages every 3 miles. 
We’d shared 2 pasties during the day and bought curried cauliflower and onion barges pasties for the bus back.  Andy bought a sausage for Kipper. He was happy to sit on the bed whilst I soaked in the bath and Andy ordered pizza. Really interesting and unusual flavours. 
Andy’s knee bothered him today on the outside I wondered if it was ITBS.
We watched a World at War episode listening to the rain outside. Kipper wasn’t happy about going for a final wee.


Tuesday 29th October
String winds and heavy rain were forecast. We decided to see Pete our financial advisor then see what the weather was like. Andy’s knee bothered him just with walking to town and back so we headed to Bobs.

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National 3 Peaks. 20th to 22nd September 2019

Suggested programme from the
6am Start Ben Nevis. Pony track. 11am Finish Ben Nevis and start drive to Scafell Pike (six hour drive). 5pm Arrive and start climbing Scafell Pike (Wasdale Head) 9pm Finish. Scafell Pike and start drive to Snowdon (five hour drive). 2am Arrive and start climbing Snowdon. 6am Finish Snowdon, and complete challenge. https://www.threepeakschallenge.uk/national-three-peaks-challenge/


Steve and Mark Garbus, Sam, Joy and Wendy. Jo and Phlis. Sarah Harrison and Chris. Driver Rob, Leader Danny (Paul and Richard)
Raising money for Wheatfields. We signed on with other Kilimanjaro friends through Charity Challenge but we paid for our trip planning to raise money.

Friday 20th September 2019
We got the train from Pudsey to Chester at 07:49 and met various pacers on the train. At Chester some of the group met at a pub by the station waiting for the organisers to arrive at 11. There’d been chat via a WhatsApp group for a few weeks but only a few of the team has been linked into it. We’d been amused and inspired by some of the posts from people who had signed up separately and were taking this on as a big adventure. 
The Sue Ryder team had arranged to be in one of the 3 minibuses so we could catch up with each other but knew, unless we agreed to stay together, we could be split up after our first climb. 
The challenge is more regulated than when I did it 12 years ago. The drivers are restricted by how many hours they can drive and what breaks they have to have. Now the challenge is to note how long it takes to do each climb then add 11 hours on for driving time and hope that makes it less than 24 hours. There have been accidents in Wales as people take risks when desperate to make up the time. They also stop the clock at the top of Snowden not decent!
We had a few stops on the way including tea before arriving at a hotel on the edge of Fort William at 19:15. We rearranged our bags in preparation for the morning then met the others in the bar. An 83 year old lady from Wetherby came to ask us what we were doing we joked with her about her joining us. 
At 9 there was a briefing session and we were given numbers and high viz jackets to put over our rucksacks. We put the numbers in our bags and tied the high viz on so it didn’t get in the way of getting into our bags. Then off to bed. 

Saturday 21st September.
Up at 4:45, continental breakfast from 5 and on the bus at 5:45, the first bus had already left with the main group. 
6:12. It was dark at the car park but the sun was rising so despite having head torches we didn’t use ours. The sky was clear and it became a really nice day with great views across the valleys. Andy and I stayed at the back chatting. 2 girls had joined us as there wasn’t enough room on the first coach that brought us from the hotel. One of them struggled with her breathing and heart rate so stopped a few times. Our guide stayed with her and the local guide led the way up the hill stopping a few times.
A lot of work has been done to improve the surface of the trail and added in more zigzag areas to make it easier walking. Proper stone cairns line the route not just mounds of loose stones. 
The wind whipped up at times knocking us off balance. It was wonderful as we got closer to the summit and the sun peaked over the top. We caught the other group up and walked with them. A few people slowed and were walking with guides. There was a good buzz from most people but hard to talk with the wind.
We were pleased to see the top and groups of people climbing the trig point just a short distance over the final plateau. Despite us having an early start there were lots of people on the hill, with numbers increasing.
9:30 reached the top, 1345m . We had a team Kili / Sue Ryder picture on the top before starting the decent. 


We stayed with Sam at the back chatting to others as they passed. We’d been reluctant to wear the orange bibs but it was useful for seeing the rest of the group. Sams knee was bothering her but she powered on fueled by ibuprofen and determination. 
We’d heard the guides discussing group sizes and how we’d fit on buses and I think this motivated Sam to ask us to push on as she was anxious we’d miss the 2nd bus. We were aware the third bus may be filled with people who were struggling. There was still 2 miles to go but we pushed on and soon caught the others. It’s hard work running in hiking boots, there’s also not much cushioning on the stony track, I was missing my trainers. The path was filling up with hikers in both directions so at times we had to wait to allow people up the hill or to over take us but usually the track was wide enough.
12:06 finished at the visitor centre. 10 miles in 5 hours 55, 1,489 m of ascent. Mark and Steve has gone on the first bus. I was anxious that we’d left Sam quite some time ago and she could be awhile. Joy rang her and she was just crossing the bridge so was only 15 minutes behind us! She’d really pushed on once she’d worked out a good rhythm that didn’t hurt her knee as much . 3 others joined us on the bus. 
12:50 left the hotel at Fort William after a lot of faffing and bag sorting from others. Our main bags go in a trailer behind the minibus so we had space for what we needed. 
We ate the packed lunch we’d been given plus a few other snacks. Most settled down to sleep. We didn’t want to miss the views but I didn’t last long before snoozing. Such a treat to get such colours across the Scottish wilderness. 
We stopped before 5 at Gretna services Harry Ramsdens for food chips with Halloumi burger. Very filling. The driver had to have a set amount of rest. We all got ready for when we arrive at Wasdale so we can get straight up Scafell Pike. Back in the van and ready to go at 17:29, pausing for fuel. 
Our driver had a carefully chosen playlist of songs such as Highway to Hell, 500 miles and various others about suffering and climbing mountains. 

I slept on and off for the journey but woke on the narrow twisty road down to Wasdale and the car park. Quick nip to the toilet and we were ready to go with our new guide. Paul took the slower 2 ladies, as it’s an out and back hike it would be easy to work out how far up to walk with them but there was no intention of getting them to the top, the goal was to save their energy for Snowden.

19:28 started Scafell Pike. The 10 of us remaining headed out into the twilight. We had a few views back of Wasdale and ahead could see the other bus just 15 minutes or so ahead of us.We’d told our guide we wanted to catch them. The path was narrow and at times hard to either overtake or allow others to over take us and allow room for those on their way down to come by. We climbed steadily, we stayed at the back with Sam giving her encouragement but also enjoying the company of the team. I was hoping to give Sam the right message by telling her my Garmin said we were nearly half way, I was actually not as far along as that. Sadly she took it as the perfect excuse to stop and wait for the others. She was keen to keep her reserves for Snowden, her knees were really hurting. We pushed on and caught the group up again but Jess was struggling at the back. She joined the bus when we left the visitor centre from bus 1 as she’d not been able to catch them when she stopped on Ben Nevis with some painted stones in memory of children she’d lost by miscarriage. She had a few episodes of panicking, not being able to catch her breath but soon recovered and pushed on. The path was either uneven steps or loose stones but at times it was really easy to get a good stride going. I guess it was harder for the others as we are used to being in the dark and we’d had little daylight. It meant we could see other groups around us. One guy, who was listening to music with out headphones was walking up in the dark, he stopped to check Jess was OK saying he was a medic. He was with us on the top and took a photo of us all.

21:35 top of Scafell Pike, 978m. We’d heard the other group had reached the top and we were only 15 minutes or so behind them. We didn’t stay long up there before heading down. We could see the lights of places beneath us but I’m not sure what we were looking at. The evening had been perfect, warm, very little wind. Great to see the stars above us. Most of the group managed a good pace down. We caught the tail walkers from the other group. There was a steady long of lights coming up the valley, so many groups doing the same challenge. We then heard about 3 people missing. It turned out that the Garbus cousins and Craig has missed a turn and ended up in a different part of Wasdale, we joked they’d gone to the pub. When we reached the carpark a team had a hot drinks ready for them but there were none for us.

23:40 finished Scafell Pike to 978m. 5.73 miles, 4 hours 12 minutes, 943m of climb. A quick turn around and we were in the vehicle and ready to leave by 23:59, we’d been told we had to leave by midnight, not quite sure how that works with their driving rules.

3am stopped at Chester services. I don’t remember much of the next 3 hours as I slept well tucked into my sleeping bag with good head support. I woke a few times as my knees hurt, I was a little crammed into my seat. Andy had the isle seat so he could spread out his legs. We stopped to get our new driver and to have a quick toilet stop but were moving again by 3.20.

4:55 pen y pass car park. We stopped at Llanberis car park to pick up Dan our final guide. Then up to Pen-Y-Pass car park. People needed to pack their bags and get their breakfasts and lunch which were sandwiches and pan au chocolates plus other goodies. I’d only been eating the food we had brought along really and seemed to manage with just 2 chocolate bars and 2 babybel cheeses. There was also a bag of goodies in the van and again I mostly ate the chocolate goods within it although I had a banana. I knew I was eating badly and was grateful for the antacids that Andy was carrying. Bus 1 arrived just after us but were all set for the climb so headed off before us. The first part of the climb is uneven steps and was hard going especially in the dark. We soon left the 2 slower lasses behind and Sam stayed with them. Dan was good at pointing out the views as they started to appear and the few clouds settling on top of Snowden when the pike arrived. When we reached the final turn to the top we had wonderful views into the next valley but then headed up into the clouds. Dan kept trying to keep us together saying we started together we needed to finish together. Bus 1 appeared out of the clouds on their way down. It wasn’t long before we reached the top and waited our turn to get onto the very top for photos. Officially they suggest you stop the clock here, we were pleased how close our time was to 24 hours, I think we were 2 minutes under if you added the 11 hours of travelling.


08.15 top of Snowden, 1085m, 2 hours 52. Quick photos at the top. Dan was keen to get us moving but people wanted sandwiches or a wee stop. He wasn’t keen for any of us to get moving as the cloud was still low. It was a little frustrating as he stopped to WhatsApp someone and didn’t want us to move on slowly but then walked off really quickly! The next time he stopped I moved on slowly with Jo as the rain drops were distorting her vision as they landed on her glasses and that felt better that we weren’t holding everyone up.
We headed down the Llanberis path that roughly follows the train line. Dipping under it a few times but it was a long way down and seemed never to have a finish, finally we turned a corner and there was Llanberis. We’d had rain a few times and most stopped to put on full waterproofs, we’d been warned the rain would come at 9. Sarah was disappointed not to do the full 3 peaks in shorts. Andy and I decided against waterproof leggings, Dan was very anxious that I wasn’t putting mine on, I said I’d be too warm and was pleased I didn’t as my trousers soon dried.


10.55 down to Llanberis from 1085m, 8.51 miles, 5 hours 37, 784m of climb. It was a good feeling to get to the bus. We all got ourselves sorted and went for drinks as we had to wait for 2 others to join the bus. Sam would get into the 3rd bus. We were pleased to hear she’d reached the top. There were delays getting back to Chester it wasn’t the 75 minute journey we had overnight. We spotted the next train we could catch had a cancelled connection but we pleased when Chris and Sarah offered to take us to Bradford Interchange. When we got there we had to wait 30 minutes so got a taxi home. Bath for me whilst Andy picked Kipper and pizza up

5 hours 54, 4 hours 12, 2 hours 52. Total 12 hours and 58 minutes Add 11 hours driving, completion time 23 hours 58!!

Total time on our feet. 15 hours and 53 minutes of hiking, 25.24 miles and 3,216m of climb

https://www.relive.cc/view/vMv855gDJPO

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157. Hardmoors 60

Hardmoors 60, 14th September 2019. 62.85 miles, 19th event 2019. 2,530m of ascent. 15 hours 59 minutes 37 seconds. 15:16 minute miles. 118 of 202. 23rd lady, 5th FV50.


I can’t believe I felt nervous before the start. I was anxious I’d not finish and somehow I might be jinxed. My right ankle felt locked again and I couldn’t see my physio for a few weeks. Some people thought I was already on the Hardmoors 2000 Hall of Fame as I’d run 135 miles of the 200 and therefore more than the 110. I hadn’t finished the race so couldn’t accept Jon’s kind offer and let those miles count. I’m stubborn but want to be true. I knew there was always the Hardwolds 80 in November but didn’t want to keep pushing myself. 
We stayed in Filey Friday night at Sam’s AirBnB. We met a few runners at the Boat Shed for our traditional pizzas. Shirley has dropped off race numbers so we could start the registration process before we reached Guisborough. Andy Cole picked us up as we walked the short distance to the car park. We started getting people to sign that they had all the kit and gave them their race numbers. The rest was done on the buses. Andy had A to L on his bus and I had the rest. Perhaps that’s where my nerves went, not getting that cozy last minute cuddle.
We all still had to have our trackers attached. As Shirley and team went through their double checks it was clear a few people hadn’t signed but not sure how that happened. Andy had help with handing out the race numbers but I did both jobs. 
I was one of the last out of the building and needed to fill out my pre race questionnaire on how I was feeling for Paul Burgum’s university project. Unlike the one from a week ago I was owning up to a few nerves.  
We started at 8:08. We weren’t at the back and got a good ‘jog’ up the hill so didn’t have to queue long for any of the styles. The climb up to High Cliff Nabb was very dry and we were soon on the Cleveland Way heading to the coast. 
Andy had looked at our progression from last year so our race plan was based on that. We hoped to knock 30 minutes off that but didn’t want to push ourselves. Cloud kept the day cool initially but before we reached the coast the sun was out. 
Flip had chocolate at Skelton as promised and we skipped down to Saltburn arriving on time 2 hours in. We both filled up with extra water knowing it was a longer stretch from here to the next checkpoint. I felt good as we ran, no pain in my ankle, I didn’t even take paracetamol with caffeine until we were 3 hours into the day. 
Lovely chatting to people some new to the events and others wishing me well for the 2000. Flip appeared again before Crowbar with water and chocolate. I was really pleased with myself as we did the stretch after Skinningrove as I could see how far I’d managed to get after wanting to give up on the 200 at Crowbar. This gave me a positive buzz. I was happier running again except for the heat. 
A lot of people were running and seemed to have support crews so we’d see the same groups at various spots along the way. Some with cowbells. Farsley Flyers had 2 relay teams! It made us think perhaps we should encourage a few Pudsey Pacers. 
We were 15 minutes ahead at Runswick Bay. Andy was getting a little anxious that we might be pushing too hard but I felt strong. I ate a lot of chocolate at the checkpoint and filled water bottles before answering Paul’s questionnaire admitting to feeling a little tired. I think they were getting used to us answering ‘I don’t know’ when they asked if we felt insecure.
Down the slope to the bay and Andy suggested ice cream. It would have been rude not to accept as I really enjoyed Mr Moos orange marmalade and knew the banoffi was really nice too. We walked across the beach enjoying them, letting others run past us. It might be a race but we’d benefit  from the walk. 
Andy hadn’t eaten as much as he felt he needed, that and the heat were bothering him by the time we got to Robin Hoods Bay. They didn’t have anything savoury at the mini checkpoint so he bought a can of soup. I was tempted by a racebar of peanut butter covered in chocolate but I think it was too sweet. Initially I couldn’t manage the soup but after a few mouthfuls it was a welcome neutraliser to my stomach.
We marched to Ravenscar just running a few sections. We both headed to the toilet before checking out the food. I was a bit stressed as there was no vegetarian savoury food. David Toth and someone else who I can’r remember now found me a flan and cold rice pudding. Mark Dalton put on a vegetarian pizza. I was happy again. Andy still wasn’t sure what he wanted to eat and even the soup didn’t seem to work. 
We left after a 20 minute rest. I felt cold initially as we marched down the road to get back on the coastal Cleveland Way. I tried to get Andy to go in front so he could set the pace but he was content with letting me lead for a lot of the way. The goal was to finish together. We ran side by side at times which is unusual for us. 
We’d lost time on the way to Ravenscar and with the longer break were behind our schedule but content to keep moving. The sky as the sunset was a stunning glow of reds. We used the light for as long as we could. A lady who we’d run with a few times got her head torch out quite early casting shadows as she ran behind us making it hard to see at times. I moved aside to let her pass preferring the natural light even going under the trees down the steps we were fine. 
We weren’t as far along this year as last when we needed our head torches. The lights of Scarborough were wonderful especially seeing the castle lit up on the hill. I didn’t mind seeing it tonight especially as the rising moon looked amazing behind it. There was a wonderful welcome as we crossed the bridge to Scalby Mills and began the fast march along Scarborough sea front. I was pleased Andy could get a picture of the moon above the castle with the streets lights reflecting in the sea along the bay. 
A quick feed at the car park checkpoint but Andy was sick after drinking the coke. We walked or ran the next few sections slowly. I took the lead and tried not to get too far in front but also to try to motivate Andy with a reasonable pace. It’s great when there are gentle undulations but then we reached Clayton Bay which is steep steps down then a steep climb up. Marshals at the junction prevent you from taking the easier road stretch but having trackers stop you cheating as well. A couple more undulations and we were at the caravan on the coast path. I sat on the bench where I dropped out of the 200 2 years ago and Andy kept going. He was now on a mission and kept going at a strong pace. Having the GPS watches with the route on meant we knew we were 3.5 miles to the finish. I struggled a few times to keep up with him but pushed on. At the Cleveland Way marker stone we should have stopped for a photo to mark my 2000 miles. I was carrying the sign Andy had printed for the 200. I just wanted to keep going as we were so close to 16 hours. We’d wanted to beat last years time and perhaps get sub 15 hours but had known before Ravenscar that wouldn’t happen. We both pushed up the final hill to ensure we were under 16 hours. 
As usual as soon as we stopped my feet ached and I felt shattered. Great to be looked after as Paul did the questionnaire but also filled our recovery shake bottles as our finish bags were given to us. 
Jon presented us both our 2000 numbers. We needed to nudge him about Andy’s as he reached the mileage in May but wanted to wait to get the reward with me. Jon and Shirley, we later found out, were distracted by Ian Gorin’s disappearance. There was a lot of support for our success but we were too tired to really appreciate it. We soon headed to the car. Andy was sick again a few times and felt really shattered. He slept most of the way home, we arrived at 02:20. Kipper has been looked after by Jane and Ian. They’d dropped him off in the evening and was lying on our bed. He was delighted to be allowed to sleep in his bed next to us. 

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Serbia 20th to 26th August, Mike and Ivana’s wedding

Tuesday 20th August

Leeds-Manchester-Munich-Belgrade-Novi Sad
The alarm rang at 4am and we were in the car and heading to Manchester Airport by 4:20. It was a smooth hour long journey. We parked within 10 minutes walking distance of Terminal 1, luckily the rain was light!
LH2505 Lufthansa flight Manchester to Munich 07:05 to 09:05.
I was surprised about the long queues at security! We had our boarding cards on our phones. Andy went straight through the electronic gates but my card wouldn’t allow me. A lady called me over and soon realised Andy had activated my boarding card instead of his! 
We’d only had a drink plus shared a banana in the car so bought egg, mushroom and cheese melt baguettes in the airport, there was the perfect hint of spice in them. 
We didn’t have to wait long to board and I was ready to sleep straight away. We’d been impressed by a mother traveling with a baby and toddler. She was so calm asking the boy to do things, such as take the bag off the back of the pushchair when it fell backwards as he’d stood up. They were sat behind us on the plane and was explaining the safety card to him in a song song voice very reassuringly.
I woke hearing drinks being served so had orange juice and asked for seconds. We’d filled our water bottles in the airport. I was surprised there was no food, Andy had snacks but then I spotted the Milka bars on the empty seat next to me. Plain swizz rolls covered in chocolate. I stretched out over Andy and the empty seat and dozed until we landed. 
I was anxious as we only had 50 minutes from landing to get the next flight. The plane parked away from the terminal building and we got a bus a long way round the tarmac. We marched through the terminal building looking for terminal L. Andy has received an email so we knew we were looking for gate L05. We had to get a shuttle train across to our terminal and I recognised a lady from our flight also making the dash.
LH1722 Munich to Belgrade 09:50 to 11:25
There was no queue just machines to scan the boarding card and we were straight onto the plane once we realised where to go! I had the window seat but slept again until the drinks came and had black tea with the orange juice and another milka bar.
Andy spotted an uneaten milka bar as we got off so I grabbed that and we ate it as we followed signs to baggage claim. Having small rucksacks only it was great to walk straight through and find no queue at the passport check. We asked at the tourist desk and she advised us we’d need cash for the bus to town so we got 10,000 RSD out which is £77. The machine gave us 2x 5000 notes which the bus wouldn’t accept but luckily a lady sold us 2 plazma sandwich ice creams and gave us good notes in exchange. They were 140 RSD the bus 300 RSD £2.33 each.

Plazma sandwich ice cream!

The driver really filled the mini bus up with people standing. I’m not sure what time we left but we arrived at the bus station in town at 1pm. It was funny seeing crops as we travelled to town, instead of the winter wonderland we’d had in December.
We were dropped at the main bus station. Luckily the guy at the counter spoke English so we got 2 tickets to Novi Sad at 13:30 for 760 RSD each £5.91. We bought slices of the slightly greasy bread with cottage cheese in that we’d had for breakfast in December to eat on the bus. 
Lots of people were stood by the bus but not getting on despite the door being open. Most were smoking. Novi Sad was written in small writing on the front of the bus. It looked like people were saving their seats as it wasn’t until the very back that we found 2 seats without bags or clothes  on. The bus was full when it left. It was very warm even with the ventilation open and the curtain mostly shut, I could still peak out. We started to listen to an audiobook but Andy soon fell asleep. I wrote some diary plus listened to music. A sign said there was free WiFi and a code was written on another sign but it didn’t seem to tie in with any of the options but Andy got it to work when he woke. It was a 90 minute journey most of the time was taken up getting out of Belgrade or so it felt. 
Andy sent a message to the lady from our AirBnB to say we’d be arriving early. We walked along in the 30 degree heat stopping at a cafe for drinks even though we had only a mile to walk. The cafe WiFi gave us the response we needed and our landlady met us shortly afterwards. The apartment is amazing. A small compact square box bedsit. Just perfect for the 2 of us for a few days. 
We had a snooze, setting the alarm for 90 minutes but it took us another hour or so before we left in search of food. The Holycow app told us of a nice sounding restaurant called Vege & Vegan and told us it shut at 8pm. The walk was lovely though as we walked through the pedestrian main area with cafe and restaurant seating areas across the wide street. A few lovely old buildings and churches dotted between the shops and ice cream places. The place was buzzing with life. 
The Vege & Vegan restaurant actually closes at 5pm so we were too late. Andy remembered another vegan place just down the road. It was a fast food place, a long narrow kitchen and we ordered at the counter on the street. Luckily there was an English menu but we had to work out what was what on the Serbian menu so we could order. Nice to know I wouldn’t accidentally order meat! Sadly it all came in plastic take away packaging! I had a burrito and Andy a burger both with nice smoothies. I was too full for ice cream despite us seeing several places. Andy bought one but got a tiny scoop however it was the most delicious dark chocolate ice cream I’ve ever had, I was too full to get a scoop myself but he shared plenty with me. 
We walked back through the pedestrian area then a park to get to the riverside with nice views across the Danube of the fort. We walked back to our flat despite it being 9pm we were ready to sleep again. We researched trips for tomorrow before bed. 

21st Wednesday August 

Fruška Gora National Park
I got a good 9 hours sleep, read for a bit then slept until 9:20. Andy’s sleep was less successful. It took us awhile to get moving but we left the apartment by 10am. We walked straight to the bus station hoping to see a bakery on the way we knew there were shops. We found our bus stop straight away with no bus waiting so we looked for food. Andy used the WiFi from the station and saw we had 10 minutes before a 72 bus would leave for Paragovo on the edge of the National Park. We found a small sandwich stall and explained no meat as the sandwiches all seemed to have some in. She pointed to the ‘mini pani’ baked goods and said cheese and pizza, we got 10 plus a bottle of chocolate milk each. Andy spotted the 72a coming round the corner away from the stop, we thought we’d missed it but it pulled into another stop in front of us and started to fill up. We managed to get seats. About 300RSD for the 2 of us for the 30 minute trip.
It was a hot journey out of town but lovely looking down on the Danube and the stretches of beach resort either side. The swimming looked secure and inviting. A guy on the bus started to talk to Andy and when he realised we didn’t understand him he started talking about Chelsea and football. He pointed out a few things as we headed south including the cardiology hospital we paused at. He too was heading for the end of the line and Paragovo. 
Trees covered the hill slopes around us when we stepped off the bus. The online guide book said keep heading in the same direction, cross the road and bridge to find walking paths. It didn’t let us down. I took a photo of a map on a sign board but we soon found lots of different painted markings on trees to follow. Initially it was a red circle, then white arrows with a red arrow inside which seemed to hint at the change of route but the main marking was a white circle with red heart inside. I know this will remind mum and dad about hiking in Spain. 
Andy led the way following routes on mapme. We were climbing a lot through the trees on well maintained paths but lots of cobwebs across them with spiders hard at work in the centre of their webs. It took awhile before we saw any views and then it was across the valley looking at other hills covered in trees. The shade of the trees were great at cooling us but it was still warm work. 
We missed the turn off for a spring, we were both surprised how quickly we were climbing up. I wish I’d taken my gps watch to map our route. I tried to mark on the map where we went to to get a general idea of our progress. 
At the top of the climb we were near a road. We followed this but took a side trip to Vidikovac na Vencu. A wooden tower that was a lookout over the trees. We had excellent views over Novi Sad, we could see the fort and bridges over the river. We were at about 1,500 feet.

Lookout!

We headed back and on to Sloboda, a freedom memorial or so it looked with a swastica on the side of a tank on the relief carvings on one side. Andy pointed out one of the fighters was a lady!

Near here was the tourist information place they pointed to us the way to a restaurant nearby, Lugarnica. We had salads and cold drinks, the waiter was keen to help us with her limited English. 

We chose a different route back and aimed for Ledinacko Jezero lake. I used ‘route to’ on mapme to find a good track there. The App said ‘restricted area’ across the path but when I clicked on it for more details it said ‘lookout’. The route followed the road side initially which wasn’t nice with so many vehicles on it but we soon crossed it and followed a side road and then we were back on paths between the trees. We were still following the red heart route which the online described as a marathon route. We weren’t surprised to see one sign that said ‘finish’ as we headed on towards a spring. The path down to this was steep and being dry meant we both slipped on the dry dirt and loose stones at times. It was lovely heading down between the trees though. 
We soon found the disappointing spring Lzvor, we’d seen just a few streams with only trickles of water in. Just past here was a turn to take us back up the hill to the lake. We found the restricted area with gates across it and wondered why mapme was still trying to take us there. We knew it wasn’t quite right as we headed up the path as we no longer had any markings on the trees!
We headed back down and we were now aiming for Popovicko Jezero, another lake nearer to our chosen return bus stop. It didn’t take long following the path down but when we reached some houses realised we should have gone back to the spring to find the path we needed. We were also at the end of the 76 bus line and a bus was waiting, we didn’t get on. We kept walking and paused at a tiny shop and sat outside eating soft ice creams and cool drinks from the fridge, alongside a couple of local guys. We walked along the edge of the village and then along narrower paths than we were used to but still with the red hearts painted on the trees. We found the tiny lake with great reflections of the trees around it but it was very green so not inviting for a swim despite the heat. 
It wasn’t far to the bus stop. The sign indicated a bus in 10 minutes at 16:35. Someone else arrived but the bus didn’t. Andy realised there were 2 signs, the second one said 17:15, it arrived at 17:20. The driver was concerned that it wasn’t working right. He revved the engine a few times, smoked a cigarette but we were off.  220RSD for the both of us. We were now at 866 feet. 
We headed down hill and more and more houses appeared across the hill sides. It didn’t take long and we had good views of the fort in Novi Sad and the bridges across the river but the bus weaved into villages rather than headed straight towards Novi Sad. 
I was surprised we’d not seen any of the many monasteries as we hiked. There’s meant to be a lot dotted around the national park. There were the occasional flowers but mostly it was the green of the trees around us. I saw a few butterflies either yellow or black & white. Lovely days walking. Great to have the reassurance of mapme but nice just to wander and not worry where we were. I wish I’d taken my gps watch to know how far we’d walked!

We got off the bus near to where we ate last night. We stopped for ice cream Andy chose first and I knew I had to have the lime flavour as his tasted so nice. I also had plasma. We wandered back through the pedestrian streets stopping for drinks at one of the street cafes to soak up the atmosphere. Then back to the apartment for showers.
As we walked home Andy pointed out a restaurant called Project 72 as somewhere he’d like to try for tea. It wasn’t far from where we were staying. Initially I thought sitting outside would be nice but it was quite quirky inside so we sat there. We forgot you’re allowed to smoke inside over here. The fans tried to whisk it away but it was noticeable. The menu was interesting quite unusual foods but there were vegan puddings so I knew I’d be ok. It was limited but as it was a tapas style meal I was able to have 2 starters, a main and a salad. Aubergine with moose, ice cream & polenta, cheese with fig jam and beetroot salad. Andy chose 2 meats wild boar and beef with tomato salad. We shared a bottle of Serbian wine which I let Andy have most of. Really amazing food, very tasty and unusual. It was odd though as they missed Andy’s beef dish but brought out his tomato salad along with 3 of my dishes so I felt I’d almost finished my meal when they brought my cheese dish then Andy’s wild boar out. They’d forgotten the beef so brought that out last. Andy checked online after we got home and it’s rated as one of Novi Sad’s best restaurants. It was packed as we left so we were lucky to get a table. 

22nd Thursday August

Sremski Karlovci to Bukovac

Petrovaradin Fortress

We got up slowly again after the 8 am alarm. Andy made coffee and we planned our day. We were intending to cycle or walk about 8 miles along the Danube to Sremski Karlovci but the routes were mostly through built up areas and on the main road rather than along the riverside. So we opted for the bus instead.
We headed towards the river stopping at a local bakery to get a chocolate croissant for me and a pastry for Andy. We walked through a wooden market area packed with stalls which seemed to be selling mostly household goods then fruit and veg. We didn’t walk far a long the river before Andy realised we were walking under the bridge that the bus would be going over. There were photos under the bridge showing its collapse in 1999 as part of the NATO bombing in the Yugoslavian war.
We found the bus stop and watched as many other buses came and went. Our Moovit App said there’d be a No 64 bus at 10:17, the sign said 10:30. We knew we could get a 61, 62 or 64. Finally a 61 came at 10.45, 135RSD each about £1.04. 
We were headed for Sremski Karlovci as the information we’d read described it as Serbia’s ‘prettiest town’. It was a 15 minute ride and we were both disappointed as we walked through the main square. There were a few well decorated buildings. We peaked into one church but in general it wasn’t anything special, not as nice a Hutton le Hole or Milton Abbas.

We decided to follow a trekking route up into the National Park again and head towards Strazilovo to the top of the hill, where the grave of the poet Branko Radicevic is. We hoped for good views. We set off at 11:15 along streets initially but we were soon out into the farmland. We walked past heavily laden vines and the foot path thinned out to a narrow little used path. I was worried we’d end up in someone’s back garden especially as we walked past plum trees ripe with fruit towards a fence. The fence was for a house so we easily walked on by. We both picked up fallen plums which were lovely to eat. We passed fields full of crops but also vineyards as we headed up hill towards Strazilovo. We passed a few loose bits of red & white striped tape that could easily be left over from a race. 

Strazilovo was a mountain lodge with a nature trail round it. We headed on down from here, crossed a dried stream then headed up a zig zag path to the Branko Radicevic memorial. We had views back towards Sremski Karlovci but they were limited by the overgrown trees. It took 90 minutes to walk the 3.5 miles from Sremski Karlovci.

We retraced our steps down to the empty stream bed and continued our journey. We saw 2 people heading the opposite direction just before we reached the path then another couple on the path. They were the only other hikers we’d seen!
We’d decided to head towards the place we’d got the bus to yesterday. It was a good track that we walked on, mostly a vehicle track and we made good progress. After 2 miles we decided to go off course up to a view point. We didn’t find the viewpoint we aimed for but managed to get up high and see across the pannonian plain towards Novi Sad.

We could also see a wooden structure not too far away and we wondered if that was a viewpoint. Mapme found us a new route to our destination which took us past the wooden structure. Turns out it was part of the Bukovac bike park. Lots of undulations for bikes to roll up and down and no doubt do jumps. 
The path was now a solid surfaced road. We didn’t spot the turn off back towards the forest so ended up in the village of Bukovac. We decided to head back to the city from here. We found the 64 bus stop with small shop behind it. We both got chocolate milk plus a larger bottle of orange Fanta to share. We walked down the street which was a mix of old and new houses. A dried stream bed ran between 2 parallel roads. We walked down one side to the next bus stop and were delighted to see a bus heading towards us. We knew it would need to turn round so we crossed a bridge to the other road and waited there. It was 14:45. I was pleased we’d walked about 7 miles. The bus was just 110 RSD each for the 15 minutes back to Novi Sad. 

As we went under the defences of the Petrovaradin Fortress we decided to get off the bus and have a look around. It took a few minutes to find the overgrown steps that led us up to the fortress. We’d read about a clock whose hour & minute hands are the opposite way round. The idea being sailors could see what the time was by the longer hand pointing to the hour. As it was 15:15 it didn’t make any difference to us plus the hands weren’t much different in length anyway. We walked round the walls of the impressive fort looking down on the complex fortifications. There’s been a fortress here since 4th century BC, built by the Celts then the Romans. Within the walls now are a museum, hotel and various bars and arts shops. We were fascinated by the ruins of a bridge across the river that seemed to head towards the fortress but we couldn’t work out where the end would be as we were so close to the waters edge. 
We headed down and along the river before crossing over by the Žeželj Bridge. All the bridges of Novi Sad were destroyed by NATO, they only rebuilt this one in February 2018. You can see the remains of the old bridges and we’d both commented that it seemed odd they’d left them not realising they’ve only just rebuilt the new bridges. 
We headed back to the apartment, showered, read and made plans for the evening. Andy decided he wanted pizza for tea so checked online for the best pizza restaurant. We headed out just after 6pm back to the main pedestrian area by Dunavski Park.  ‘Lanterna’ didn’t let us down. We both chose large pizzas, I had the Mediterranean and loved the taste of the goats cheese and sun dried tomatoes. Andy has a meat pizza. I’d seen the plant pot pudding on the menu and watched some kids on a table near us order them too. I stopped eating the crusts thinking I’d be too full to eat the pizza and was surprised not to be over full when I finished. We shared the dark chocolate moose with cherry and plazma in a flower pot. It was amazing! The perfect treat. In the UK out door seating always has heaters to warm us up but here they spray you with mist to cool you. We were both pleased when this stopped as it’s an odd sensation!

Both of us had aching legs as we slowly walked back. I’m pleased with what we’ve seen the last few days. We were back by 20:30 and started to plan tomorrow.

23rd Friday August

Belgrade, lazing by the lake and pre wedding get together. 
Up at 8am and out the door by 9:45. It took 20 minutes to walk to the bus station and we got tickets to Belgrade. We headed back to the mini pani stand and got 3 each of the cheese, pizza, cherry and chocolate mini pastries. It was cooler in the bus station building so we sat there until 9.25 then headed out and joined the queue for the bus. There seemed to be mostly single passengers in front of us so we ended up at the back of the bus before there were 2 seats together. 
We listened to the audio book again for the 90 minute journey back to Belgrade. There was no WiFi on the bus so we couldn’t plan our onward journey. We took pot luck on the pastries but Andy let me have most of the chocolate ones.
The bus station appeared different to when we left here on Tuesday until we headed through the train station and I could see where we’d got on. There were lots of bus stands and I was sure we’d changed buses here in December.  We decided to head for a drink and see if we could orientate ourselves. We soon found the familiar war damaged buildings and headed towards the pedestrian area. We initially were heading for parks thinking there’d be cafes beside them but there weren’t. We found a cafe with shaded outdoor seating. I had a frappe plazma (the “nutritional” biscuit that similar to rusks) and Andy a fruit smoothie. The internet was limited to indoors but Andy found our bus stop round the corner and let our AirBnB host know our expected ETA. She gave Andy a different address but not too far away, it turned out her last guests broke the toilet seat in the place where we’d been due to stay! We’d therefore been switched to a ‘better’ apartment.
It was a struggle finding a place selling the bus tickets we needed. We ended up back at the cafe and a small shop next to it. She sold us a bus pass for 24 hours instead of a rechargeable card like we’ve used before. We caught a 56 bus and got off just after the Supervero supermarket we remember from last time. 
The area we walked through looked run down, some doors and windows were boarded up. We were at the back entrance and it looked better from the front. The flat it’s self is lovely. Again very compact but just what we need with kitchen, bathroom, sitting area and bed.
Andy has been contacting Mike, the groom but he’s busy and also Richard a guy we know from the uk who is arriving today. He made the right connection in Munich but had an escort through the terminal following our advice. He and his wife have a toddler and young child. Sadly not all of their luggage made the full journey initially. 
We headed down to Savsko Jezero, ‘Ada’ lake where the wedding will be. We knew we needed a 56 bus but decided to jump on a 51 to see where it went as we thought it was a similar route. We worked out where we needed to jump off and headed down to the lake. We found the wedding venue but it was closed today so we headed to the lake. Great to see so many people enjoying the warm weather swimming in the lake. 
Andy was hungry so we stopped at a beach side bar and sat on comfy chairs. They didn’t have any plasma shakes so I had lemondade, Andy a beer and we shared a salad and chips. We sat for an hour or so listening to the audiobook. It was hot and sticky under the shade with just the occasional breeze to cool us. 
We stopped at Nancy’s for ice cream. We both tried the Amadeaus which was chocolate, hazelnut and marzipan. I had nougat on top so it was all a mix of chocolate flavours but very nice. We were pleased we missed getting on the first 52 bus as it was really packed but shortly after a second one came along and we had space to breath. 
We got back to the apartment by 5:30pm which gave us time to shower and change before walking to Mike and Ivana’s. We had time for a quick drink with them then got a taxi to the bowling alley by Town Park in Zemun the old town. 
A few others were there already. Mike and Ivana had booked the whole place out as they were expecting 50 people from the wedding party. Helen and Peter, Mike’s known them since uni, were having a drink outside. Inside Mikes uncle, sister and a few other family members were sat. His mum came and introduced herself too. Andy knew a few of the guys from the stag weekend. Igor and Bojan are Mike’s Serbian mates that were on the trip too. We ended up bowling with them plus Helen and Peter. They were good but very competitive. Next to us were Rich and Lisa with their kids. Rich had bought new shorts and tshirt as he waits for his clothes to arrive. It was a shame they had no stand for kids to roll the balls down or bumpers on the sides to make it more fun for the kids. Andy ended up playing with them as well as us as it ended up being Rich on his own. We were there for 2 hours and had just enough time for 2 games, Andy was delighted to win the second game. 
Igor arranged a taxi for us with Helen and Peter to the restaurant. We were going to a restaurant called Kafana Kafana back near the main part of town. We were dropped nearby and found it after wandering around a little. There was seating area outside and a narrow building inside that looked packed. We weren’t allowed in despite mentioning Mike and Ivana’s names. Andy got their WiFi and messaged Mike. It took awhile before other groups arrived and Ivana headed straight in! We can only think as it was booked in Ivana’s name they thought we were tourists.
We were tucked into the back of the narrow room on 3 rows of tables. Food and alcohol was all included. Bread was on the tables and they brought rakija out as shots to drink then wine or beer. Salad was brought out then a massive plate of meat. Both Ivana and Mike were keen to reassure me that they would bring out vegetarian food. In the end I got a plate of fried vegetables which I just had to hope weren’t fried in meat fat! With Ivana being vegetarian you hope the idea would have been explained. There were quite a few of us. We’d joined Helen and Peter and tried to get Bojan and Igor to join us as they ended up standing for awhile. 2 people came for drinks only but stayed longer than expected hence there not being enough seats. 
Two guys played guitar and sang traditional Serbian songs all night. You could spot the Serbians in the group singing along. We kept thinking we recognised bits of songs but then they’d go into a different tune or rhythm. The music was loud and we had a speaker near us but no one could work out how to turn the volume down. We got up and danced and slowly more people did. It was very tight as we had to dance by the tables. 
The guys were playing when we arrived at 9:30, they didn’t stop and barely paused for breath until 11:30 and then it was only a 15 minute break. They continued playing until 2am. Ivana said they kept saying it was the last song for at least 5 songs. People had slowly been leaving since midnight, we’d thought about leaving but ended up staying until the end and getting a taxi back with Mike and Ivana. With the band playing and them talking we didn’t get into a taxi until 2:30. We all got out at theirs and we walked back to our b&b as it was only 10 minutes. During the drive back someone rang them for advice as one of the guys had been stung in his arm and the side of his face was swollen and eye shut. He’s was breathing ok but they didn’t know if they should go to hospital or not. We left Ivana giving them a private clinic number. He doesn’t have any travel insurance or his EHIC Card. 

24th Saturday August

Plazma Shake

Zemun

We both woke a few times in the night, I was cold so Andy turned the aircon off. Having good blackout blinds meant, except for a thin strip of light, we were in darkness. I was still surprised it was the 11am alarm that woke us!

We got up slowly and didn’t leave until nearly midday and walked to Pateras for Plazma shakes. We’d been there with Mike and Ivana in December. Ivana sent us a message to tell us the address just after Andy found the location and confirmed it by seeing a review Mike had left saying they are the best Plazma shakes in town. We had one each and tried to suck the thick liquid up the straws before switching to the long spoons. Lots of chocolate had been squirted into the sides of the glass and some settled at the bottom. The fake squirty cream on the top is the only disappointment. What a treat!
Andy worked out how to get to the old town, Zemun, by bus. We bought another day pass. Several buses went by before we got on the 581 to town. We were dropped at the right bus stop and didn’t wait long before the 83 to Zemun.

We got off at the same place as we had back in December and found the first flight of steep steps between the houses to head towards the Gardos tower. The next stretch we planned to climb was closed as it was being repaired. Further along we found another narrow path up. As we waited for a lady to come down I spotted an overgrown path so we climbed that instead. It eventually took us to the top of the steps that were closed for repair. We headed up the next lot which weren’t closed off but they were doing work further up. I think the guy tried to warn us that the handrail might be unstable as they were welding sections of them. As we got to the base of the tower we realised they were doing a lot of work around the tower building up the walls and walkways. We went into Gardos Pub (again) and had a fruit juice while looking out over the river. Last time the clouds were low and their whiteness melted into the snow so we’d had limited views. Andy took a photo from the spot as last time, all sunshine and sweeping views of the Danube.
We wandered down to the riverside and enjoyed the river breeze and the welcome shade of the trees. Lots of people out and plenty of cafes and restaurants were open compared to last time. I was tempted by ice cream and pleased to get Dulce de leche but it was only a tiny scoop so I got a second. Really nice ice cream, very creamy. That was my threeses. We were very aware we’d missed lunch!

As we reached the Great War island we spotted a pontoon bridge so walked across it to the island. There was a beach area on the tip of the island, we’d been able to see it from the tower area. People were camping here too. We could see paths across the island marked beneath the trees but as we weren’t sure we could get off the island at the other end we headed back over the bridge.
Just before 4pm we stopped at Lemon Chill floating bar. Bright flowers hung along the edges of the boat and colourful furniture made it appealing. I had lemonade, Andy a beer and we shared nachos. Lots of boats were parked up on the river section next to us. We only remembered we were floating when a boat went by and we bobbed up and down. 
We walked back from here and into town as we needed to get a wedding card. We recognised a few places as we walked through the busy shopping streets. We then got a bus back towards our apartment but got off at Super Vero, the local supermarket. We bought fruit, ajar, humous, bread sticks and crisps and headed back for a picnic tea at the apartment. Andy found the Bourne Identity to watch on tv which was subtitled into Serbian so we only struggled to understand it when another language such as Russian was spoken.  

25th Sunday August
Ivana and Mike’s Wedding Day

We knew we didn’t need to rush as we weren’t expected at Mike and Ivana’s house until 11. Nice to have a lazy morning. We got changed at 10:40 ready to leave at 10:50 but got a message from Mike saying he was delayed so we had a spare 30 minutes. 
We arrived at their house to find a large group enjoying various alcoholic spirits in the garden. The walnut flavour raikia was the most recommended. I tried a tiny amount and then drank coke. There were also pastries with various fillings such as chocolate, custard, jam and cream cheese. Mike still hadn’t arrived. Ivana was in their flat with friends who kept coming out onto the balcony above us. The idea was that he wasn’t allowed to see her until he’d ‘paid’ a fair price for her. 
We chatted to a few people then another group arrived. They were staying on a house boat and Mike had stayed with them last night. Mike still wasn’t with them as he’d stopped for cheese! There was also a roast pig and they needed the soft cheese to go on the bread rolls to have with the poor creature! 
Ivan, Ivana’s brother, was dressed in a bullet proof jacket. Mike had to ‘buy’ Ivana from him. His two Great Danes were wandering around the garden and Mike’s nieces and nephews were enjoying following and stroking them. One dog had a tutu on the other a bow tie. 

On the stairs to the apartment Mike and Ivan discussed how much Ivana was worth. Ivan went between English and Serbian to ensure everyone knew he was fighting for a fair price for her.  Mike gave him presents of pictures of the dogs and a bottle of spirit which was enough to secure a cashless purchase. Mike was then able to see Ivana and she came down to see us. We wondered if she’d be in white not knowing what their traditional dress would be and she was. I felt for her in the heat as it was a long flowing dress but her long sleeves were lace rather than full material and her dress backless. 
Ivan shot a few blanks into the air from his pistol to celebrate. Traditionally Mike would also have had to shoot an apple from a tree before he could claim her but they don’t allow that in the city. He could also have saved some cash by trying to kidnap her, we he did attempt at one point during the morning.
There was then a delay as they couldn’t find one of their cats and they didn’t want to leave them out all day. They are frightened of the dogs so tend to run away when they are loose. It turned out someone had opened the door marked do not open in their flat and she was tucked in their bedroom. 

Mike and Ivana left with the bridesmaid and best man for photos around 13:15 and we headed to the wedding venue. Luckily Igor said we could go with him but he made sure others were connected to the internet so they could book taxis. Liz joined us. She’d met Mike when she was living in Australia but now lives in Farsley just down the road from us in Pudsey! We chatted about running as she’s in the local running club. 
When we started walking to Mike’s earlier the day felt cooler and a little overcast but it was now a really warm day again. The venue its self was lovely and cool inside such a big contrast. A photographer took a picture of the 4 of us as we entered. Inside Ivana’s niece was giving the ladies a braclet and the guys a stick on flower button. We knew we had to pay her for these. We were then shown to our table but chatted to others as they arrived as planned for 2pm.
We were joined on our table by Rich and Lisa with their 2 children Alexander and Sebastian, they live near us in Leeds. Also by Gabriel he worked with Ivana in Romania and another lady that she worked with in Bucharest. They didn’t know each other but ended up chatting a lot she’d been there on Friday at the meal. He was fascinated by our running plus Andy’s property business.

And so began the eating, bearing in mind half the group had been at the house and had pig and pastries. The waiters brought out plates of meat with a bit of cheese and 2 little cakes and cottage cheese slices. They soon changed mine, Andy’s and Gabriel’s for the vegetarian option which was a lot of cheese but no bread to put it on. 
Alcohol was included and the waiters just brought out what people wanted. There was sparkling and still water on the tables which were regularly refilled. Igor was keen for Rich and Andy to join him with whisky so asked for a small jug of it to be on the table. I had a few drinks of whisky but not enough to feel tipsy.

The bread came out after that along with the soup. Mike and Ivana then arrived. We headed outside and they were married on a raised platform. There were 2 officials. One spoke in Serbian and led the ceremony, the other translated it into English. They were sharing a microphone so it took awhile but was a brief service with only a few statements about choosing together life choices such as where they live. They asked Ivana what name she would have and she chose to take Mike’s surname, ‘Roberts’’. They both just had to speak once to say yes to marrying the other. That was it, done in 15 minutes. The part that took the time was everyone queuing up to have photos taken with them both separately then together. There were 3 photographers at work. We felt for Mike as he was in the sun most of the time in his 3 piece suit!  We let people queue and went in for our 3rd course of a pasta, spinach and cheese slice. It wasn’t very tasty so I just ate the spinach. We had our photos then they joined everyone inside. They were at the head table with the bridesmaid and her partner and best man and his wife. 
The dancing had started after the first course. There was a band but also music in between them playing. I was a bit surprised to here ‘All I Want For Christmas’ with it being August!. There was an elderly gentleman who was very enthusiastic and danced a lot. We were up quite a lot of the time despite the mix of Serbian and music we knew. 
The main course came out. There were massive plates of meat. Initially I was given a fish complete with head but they switched that to round patty’s of sweet potato with tomato sauce, there was also salad but the patty were enough. Nice food. 
The bride and groom did a first dance which we joined in at the end. Andy also danced with Mike and Ivana. We danced a lot but didn’t chat much as the music was so loud. We spotted as the day went on people were outside as the day was cooling plus there was less noise. Mike and Ivana had also asked people not to smoke inside which was perfect for us. We went out for a bit but found our feet were sore just standing after all the dancing!
At 8pm we gathered outside for the cake cutting. They stood with the river behind them and cut the cake just in time for fireworks to be set off. The next tradition was to have a brass band appear that plays loud music until they’re paid to go. We’d been told some of the bands these days aren’t very good and are only in it for the money. They didn’t stay too long. 
Andy became Alexander’s (Rich & Lisa’s son) best friend as he swung him round the dance floor a lot. I wasn’t good enough for him! He’d also been up on Ivan’s shoulders holding the large flags. Andy also fetched cake for Alexander and family as he spotted they were cutting into the 6 different types of cakes inside. We went in and tried a few different flavours. They were amazing!
We’d been told the party would go on until 11 but the band seemed to think they were stopping at 10. They played a few last songs then agreed to play for another 15 minutes until 10:35.
Andy asked Ivan if we could get a taxi back with him and his partner, they were in one of the wedding cars so he called the driver and we were dropped near the supermarket so it was easy to get home.
A really lovely day but just so much food!

26th Monday August

Homeward bound

Belgrade to Munich 13:05

Munich to Manchester 16:15
We both woke a few times before the 8am alarm. We didn’t take long to pack and head back for Plazma shakes.

Andy worked out what buses we could get to town to then catch the airport bus. Luckily we caught an earlier one than planned to town as it took 30 rather than the 20 minutes the moveit app expected. It wasn’t far to the 1A airport bus stop but that didn’t seem to leave as the timetable suggested but had plenty of seated on it when it arrived. It was 30 minutes to the airport. 
We went straight through passport control and headed to our gate. It looks like we have our bags checked as we go through to each gate which seemed not very efficient. We walked about as we had an hour before boarding was due and thought about spending our last few dinars but didn’t find anything we wanted really. 
We queued at A4/5 bit they were only letting people on for the flight going through A5 despite displaying our flight as well. We became first in the queue for our flight. It was straight forward but then another long sit as they didn’t seem to start boarding people until 12:50 instead of 12:25.
We left 30 minutes late but they announced that people would make their connections. We were due to land at 14:35. I read as Andy tried to sleep. We had a chocolate biscuit this time. Andy has been hungry before we took off so shared a chia bar he’d got with him. He then kindly let me have the chocolate biscuit.  
The air steward read out the gates for most transfers but not ours. He added a list of destinations including Manchester and said these onward flights might be rebooked. We landed at 3pm and knew we had 45 minutes to boarding. 
We seemed to be endlessly zigzagging through empty passageways before reaching the terminal building. We could see we needed to go to the H part of the terminal building but didn’t know which gate. Suddenly we were going through bag check then wandering along empty passageways hoping we were aiming to the right gate, Andy got an email to advise us H02. 
It had only taken 20 minutes from getting off the plane. Nice to have arrived at the terminal building rather than out on the tarmac where we had to wait for a bus to take us somewhere. 
Slowly people started arriving. The plane took off on time meaning we landed 17:15, it only took 15 minutes to get to the car and by 18:30 we were with our giddy Kipper in Huddersfield.  

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156. Dales Way

Dales Way. 17th August .  83.18 miles 17th event 2019. 3,018 m of ascent. 22 hours 06 mins  41 seconds. 15.57 minute mile. 1st FV 50. 33rd of 109. 5th lady

The Dales Way hosted by Punk Panther running from Bowness on Windermere back to Ilkley. It seemed the perfect challenge race in the 50th year since its founding. From the Pudsey Pacers Martin and Tim also signed up and somehow we managed to twist Bills arm for him to join us as well. Sadly Tim became injured so it was left to the four of us. We recced the route with Kipper over a very hot Easter weekend which meant only Bill completed the full distance as Martin could only spare two days and we had to abandon sections to be with Kipper. On the 13th of July Andy and I went back and recced from route from Ribblehead to the finish overnight. It was seven weeks after my failed attempt the Hardmoors 200 and I realised I’d run no further than 8 miles at a time since. Needless to say I struggled but luckily having Phlis, our friend who lives in Grassington, I was able to have a rest for a couple of hours and managed to complete the full 42 miles. I did a few days of back to back runs to increase my mileage and 2 weeks before I ran the Farndale marathon so by race day I felt pretty confident I was fit enough to run the distance.


We parked at Ilkley and got the 6 o’clock bus to Bowness on Windermere. We were given our race numbers and trackers on the bus but had to have the trackers activated at registration. It was a short walk to the bench and the official start of the Dales Way. Bill had been anxious healthwise as to whether he would be able to complete this. The longest race he done to date was the Hardmoors 30 so this was a big step up in distance. He decided he was going to run with us and take it easy.
Bill stayed near us until checkpoint one. Martin was struggling with his watch so came into the checkpoint after us. We didn’t see either of them again until the finish. At times during the race I tried to use my phone to track them but struggled  on the move plus the website wasn’t very user friendly on my mobile. Dev helped by reassuring us both.
The rain in the past few weeks particularly the day before left a nice layer of water making it muddy in places. Andy and I were both amused as people tried to avoid getting their feet wet only to find a puddle completely across the path and no choice but to go through. I chatted to one guy who was very anxious about getting trench foot. I tried to reassure him that his feet would dry as it was very warm and having slightly damp feet would help avoid getting blisters. 
It was a warm day, I guess because the weather forecasts talked about the wind and rain I wasn’t quite prepared for the heat. We got very little rain but the clouds in the distance were often dark, threatening and heavy. The route is stunning. We climbed quite quickly and the views back of Windermere soon disappeared. We were on high open moor land and followed the wiggly line of the GPS on our watches.
9.7 miles to checkpoint one, Burneside 10.30am, 5 minutes arrived 30 minutes early. We knew we were going off the route but hadn’t realised how far it was to the hall. It seemed quite over the top so early in the race to have an indoor checkpoint. We were in quickly grabbing savoury and sweet treats and filling up the water bottles as well as using the facilities before heading back out. That was when we left Bill and saw Martin heading in. We hoped they would team up.
We chatted to a lot of people along the way many who are doing their first long ultra. We also recognised many other runners from other races, it’s a nice family to be part of. We were also quite surprised how often we would catch up others only to be overtaken later particularly two ladies and a guy in purple who run really well on the road but struggled on technical  off-road sections.

Our plan was to run 4 miles an hour during the day and 3.5 overnight. As usual for the first 2 hours we were closer to 5 miles an hour and the plan also went out the window with some of the checkpoints being off route an extra 2 miles quickly added onto our final arrival distance.


CP2 Beckfoot 19.1miles arrived 12.45am, arrived 30 minutes ahead of schedule. When we’d looked at the route profile we knew there were hills out of the Lake District but then it looked relatively flat following the rivers with just one main rise before Dent where the real climbs began. In reality it was quite ‘bumpy’ on the way to Beckfoot checkpoint. Here they huddled beside the viaduct on the road side in the rain. This was the second lot of rain and we welcomed it and ran on not tempted to put waterproofs on. Even the climb from we were expecting wasn’t too bad.

CP3 Dent 31.2 miles, arrived 15.55, 20 minutes ahead of plan, we stayed for 8 minutes. The river was really swollen as we approached Dent and I felt sorry for a guy with sore feet, who had just put fresh socks on, as he tried to avoid puddles on the approach to the checkpoint where he knew he’d be able to see a medic to tape his feet. As the path crossed road sections we’d often see supporters especially a guy with his kids giving out Jelly babies to everyone. We also kept seeing Richard, his wife Tracey was running. We knew them from volunteering on the Spine race plus we’d bumped into them on the Lulworth Cove event earlier in the year.    

CP4 Gearstones 41.4 miles, 18.40, 5 minutes ahead of time, 20 minutes break. From Dent to Gearstones we knew it was mostly road and a steep climb up. We’d not recced this section as this is where the heat was too much for Kipper so I was surprised how short the climb actually was, I made myself run the flatter road section thinking I’d soon be walking. When it came the climb was steep. The decent down to the road was undulating and I was surprised when we turned off a good path to head along a wall before dropping top the road. Some guys in front were following their GPS route rather than what was on the ground as we turned sharply down to a house on a well used track and they followed a faint path ahead before going down to join us. The road section was 1/4 of a mile to the checkpoint, an out and back so it was good to see others and cheer them on, even though we knew they were ahead of us. There was a large room with bags in and we were directed to the cramped kitchen where cheese pies were on offer, I was delighted. We looked in our drop bags and decided against getting our waterproof trousers out, we were warm enough and no rain was forecast. We allowed ourselves 20 minutes to drink tea and organise ourselves such as getting the head torch to the top of our bags. The 2 ladies and guy in purple were there, we left before them and didn’t see them again.

CP5 Buckden, 54.7 miles, 22.35, 30 minutes behind plan, 5 minutes. We ran along the road then walked the climbs knowing this was the longest and highest climb of the day. I’d taken an extra cheese pie so was pleased to eat this as we climbed. Once off the good track of the Pennine Way it was trickier under foot. We paused quickly at Nethergill Farm and then enjoyed the better surface under foot to the road. We were down by the river when we decided to get our head torches out and were overtaken by a couple of guys. It was straightforward finding the path to Buckden and the checkpoint was by the car park so there was a shirt out and back.

CP6 Grassington, 65.8 miles, 01.50, 45 minutes behind plan, 12 minutes. We knew the section to Kettlewell really well through the fields. It was strange going through the village o the dark withe the scarecrows. A runner was coming back towards us feeling sick I suggested she eat something as I know it works for me, she didn’t really respond I think her mind was made up to stop. We were slow going up the escarpment but then were confident with our route finding, we were starting to catch people up and gave other confidence with the route. It’s just the section before Grassington where there’s no clear path on the ground to follow that I struggle with every time I’ve done something different but we found the style in the wall. We were much later than planned getting here but were told Phlis had been out earlier looking for us. Andy managed to get pasta with stock to eat as he was really struggling feeling nauseated.

CP7 Bolton Abbey 75 miles, 04’40, 50 minutes behind plan, 3 minutes. I kept belching but didn’t feel nauseated like Andy so we took it steady from Grassington to Bolton Abbey. We marched rather than ran and still managed to catch people up. We knew it was mostly downhill or flattish to the finish which made it easier to keep a good pace. We didn’t want to waste time by stopping for long at Bolton Abbey. There were no seats so I sat on the ground. We pushed on at a good march and kept to the road into Addingham rather than the boggy section but took the path along the river to not loose the official route. A guy caught us and we chatted with him but he ran ahead I think it was him that we caught when Andy got his second wind and pushed us to the finish area but of course we knew we had to go past the sports complex and along the path to the official end of the Dales Way to see what the letter there was, the letter Y. We puled him with us back to the finish.

I’d sent Gwyneth a text to say what time I thought we’d finish and just missed her but we she walked round to the finish to see us.

I was delighted to discover that I was first lady over 50! At last being older meant something!!! 22 hours 06 mins  41 seconds. I was also pleased we were so high up in the ranks although the generous cut offs allowed for walkers but we were still 33rd of 109 and 5th lady. I think we’d hoped to complete it in 20 hours but were delighted with the time we did considering how unwell Andy had felt.

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155. Hardmoors 26.2 Farndale marathon

Hardmoors 26.2 Farndale marathon, 4th August 2019, 29.57 miles, 1,632m of ascent. 5 hours 51 minutes 54, 11:54 minute miles. 3rd lady. 22nd/127. 45 minute course PB

I was doing the race to get my miles up to get closer to the 2000 miles of Hardmoor races. Andy decided to run/walk the 10k with Kipper as it was a warm day. I knew I needed to push myself to get out of Hutton Le Hole as the path gets very narrow soon after leaving the road. I was slowed a little by others but not too badly and I was surprised how many I overtook once in the open fields. I was probably overtaken by just as many but didn’t really notice it.

I was a little anxious in Gilmour when they made us go round the grass area that we usually go across thinking the route had changed but we were directly back to the narrow woods section. I offered for someone to go on front of me but they were happy for me to lead the way. I’m relieved they didn’t as it wasn’t until the road section that anyone caught me up, there was a long gap. When we turned off the road I only recognised a few sections from 2 years ago. One section I had to call back 3 guys who did what I’d done last time and missed a left turn.

I was mostly confident with the route remembering moorland covered in purple heather 2 years ago but this time there was little purple. I missed a turn and followed some guys into a field but both times quickly knew I was wrong. I was told I was 4th lady and saw 3rd lady at a checkpoint, we overtook each other a few times. I was stronger on the ups and she was very speedy on the downs as long as they weren’t too technical.

After about 2/3 of the race I was surprised to catch her again on a downhill. We chatted a little she had a 110 Tshirt on so I knew she had some fitness from that. I owned up to wanting the first F50 but wasn’t bothered either way about what place I got after that. She didn’t tell me her age but said she was beginning to slow, I took advantage of the next hill but she soon caught me and showed me how quick she could run downhill. The next time I saw her she was overtaking the lady who had been in 2nd place who was struggling, I’d asked a marshal, as I knew we were on the half marathon section of the race, and she confirmed the halfs were all through. It was flat along the river from here and she edged off and I didn’t see her again until the finish, it was her first time on the course so I had the advantage of knowing what a big climb there was before the long downhill into Hutton Le Hole at the finish. Hopefully she also learned she was wasting time on checkpoints and I often caught her there.

I enjoyed the route but did push on as much as I could as I felt good but was also keen to get the 3rd lady slot as I pulled away from the lady who had been in 2nd place. I chatted a little with people I passed like Jon Pitchford and got a hug from Paul Burgum. People were feeling the heat and although I noticed it I just felt so strong, I love pushing up the hills and felt strong on the downs. It was lovely encouraging people from the half marathon especially on the final climb but I felt bad that I was able to run some of it as most walked it. Clare Pitchford was keen not to be caught by Jon as she pushed on strongly.

I was delighted to finish in 3rd place but sad to realise that Alison Hyde pipped me to the F50 prize as well as 2nd place. I was so pleased to be 22nd and also under 6 hours as I’d chatted to a guy near the start who said only 16 people got under 6 hours last year. We’d taken 6 hours 36 minutes 2 years ago so my aim was to beat that, I didn’t expect to knock 45 minutes off it!

I really enjoyed the course, the racers and support and encouragement from the marshals. Andy was a little concerned that perhaps we need to run these races separately as I slow him on the downs and wait for him on the hills but on the longer routes we really help and encourage each other. That’s what we enjoy.

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The Silk Road 24th June to 10th July 2019


Monday 24th June

New Pudsey to Manchester airport by train 06:26 to 08:07 Flight TK1994 to Istanbul 10:40 to 16:50.

We walked to New Pudsey station and I’d not realised how overgrown the path by the field was. The rain overnight meant my trousers and shoes were soaked but I knew they’d soon dry. On the train I read a bit about Istanbul and then the history of Uzbekistan. 
There was no queue for check-in at the airport but we hadn’t realised we needed visas for Turkey, although Andy had checked. We managed to do it quickly online and rejoined the now short queue. A different lady and she didn’t ask to see the visa but was sat next to the original desk so I presume she knew what we were doing, or the visas were digitally connected to our passports. Our rucksacks needed to go to the ‘oversize baggage’ desk, I presume because of the straps and the risks of them getting caught. 
The airport was very busy as we headed through bag check, the zips on my trousers meant I had to be checked. We looked for food but the place we settled on advised us it could be 45 minutes wait and we were due to by board then. We went to a takeaway place and I got a veggie burrito and Andy a sandwich. I filled my water bottle and we watched the planes loading and unloading. 
We were due to start boarding at 10 but it was 10:30 before we did. We were on seats 32 at the very back of the plane, I had the window . We were due to leave at 10:40 but were at least half an hour late moving. I’d been given a bag of snack goodies for my birthday which I brought along so we sucked on the sour sweets to pop our ears. 
We both watched the Stan and Laurel film trying to coordinate starting it together. We paused for lunch, both having vegetarian but they served everyone together instead of the usual delay for the meat eaters. I was surprised that there was a spicy chilli on top of the soggy toasted sandwiches. Nice food especially the cake pudding. 
I feel asleep towards the end of the film so rewound it and thought I’d sleep again but had a coffee and read up on Istanbul a bit more. I then started watching another film, 55 Steps. I was delighted I could charge my phone at the seat as the battery doesn’t seem to last long these days. I will keep it mostly on airplane mode whilst I’m away to preserve it. 
The view from the plane as we came into land was of a lot of brown fields but the city was widespread with swimming pools and lots of wind turbines. We flew over Esenyurt and landed near there at 17:10. We didn’t start getting off until 17:30 as we taxied around awhile and then waited for the connection to the terminal. Interesting watching the vehicles lined up to empty the plane of luggage and food services. 
It was a long walk through a very modern wide terminal to get to the passport control. Plenty of people on duty so we didn’t wait long. The guard read out my name and said ‘Stoke City’ either practicing his English or he’s a football fan. Baggage claim was efficient and the signage to ‘left luggage’ was universal. We sorted out what we needed for a night in Istanbul and left our main bags behind. 
We’d seen we needed to go down a floor for the buses and our hosts had informed us we needed the HavaşIST shuttle to Taksim. It took a moment to work out where we needed to be, we couldn’t work out how to use the ticket machines but luckily we could pay by card on the bus. 18L each for the hour-ish trip, £2.46 according to my currency converter app. 
We were lucky as it left within minutes of us getting on. A four lane highway took us towards the city passing high rise buildings. We could see some of the modern skyscrapers we’d seen out of the plane window as we approached. We wondered if we’d have missed the rush hour but hit it after 30 minutes at 7pm. As we got nearer the main city we spotted people picnicking on the lovely grass areas between the main roads. I guess with the densely populated city this might be the closest green space to where they live. We’d spotted sprinklers and could see how nicely manicured it all was. We had one stop but no one got off and we were surprised to arrive after 50 mins at Taksim Square. 
We crossed the main road and tried to get our bearings. Andy had written down instructions for how to find our AirBnB but we needed to orientate as to where we were. We walked across a pedestrian only square and Andy used the GPS on his phone. We found a monument and just past there was the street we needed. Andy bought some roasted chestnuts from a street seller and we headed down the narrow road with shops on both sides. The entrances to many buildings were down a few steps so you had to watch your footing and not fall into the hole. We were looking for Mama Coco as we needed to turn up that street then down the next at the end of which we knew it was a pedestrian only street which turned out to be steps down the hillside. There were loads of cafes and a few breakfast bars so we knew we’d eat well. Stray cats, encouraged by food and water, lived on the steps, most were lazing in the heat. 
We found the street we needed and apartment block 3. The door was open but we rang the bell and headed up the stairs. Andrew and his partner were renting out a spare room in their spacious apartment. There were views out over the river Bosporus, well just about as we were a fair way back. 
We had a quick chat and left our bag. It was 8pm and sunset was 8:40pm so we wanted to get out and explore. We chose the longer, more run down way to the riverside road and walked north not knowing there were steps if we’d turned left. Andrew said we could gets boats across the Bosphorus river from down here. We walked a long the street occasionally getting access to the river but there seems to be a lot of new development going on along here. We found one boat area but it was for river cruises with dinner & dancers or tours of the islands. Further up at Besiktas we found boats over to Üsküdar on the Asian side of the river. For 5LT, 68p we got a one way ticket. Although I hate the waste and light pollution the city lights across the water on both sides was lovely. The road bridge was lit up and so were many mosques. It felt so exciting to be crossing over. 
On the Asian side we could walk south down the riverside on a promenade and look over the river to the side we’re staying on and also the old city peninsula. Loads of people including children were out walking. We tried looking for food but it was mostly British or American fast food burgers etc. Lots of carts sell sweet corn either on the cob or loose in cups, we bought a couple of cups to eat as we strolled. We had mayonnaise on top which wasn’t quite the same as the spicy stuff we’d had in Mexico. 
We kept walking trying to work out a plan to get back. We got as far as Leander, a tower on a very small island and ended up turning round and heading back to Üsküdar. We found out we could get a different ferry to Eminonu which is on the old city peninsula. We just had to work out how to buy travel cards. Luckily someone showed us. Another lovely ferry trip, they initially headed towards the palace directly opposite before turning and heading down the rivers edge to Eminonu. 
We decided to walk back from here and try the restaurants under Galata Bridge. They all had picture menus eventually we let a guy explain the vegetarian options and sat on the edge looking over the pathway next to the river. I had grilled vegetables with a spicy sauce and Andy has lamb skewers. People were fishing from the top deck and I was surprised by how tiny the fish were as I watched the lines being pulled up. Andy wondered if they were bait but the lines were going out with just the weight on the end. 
We were back just after midnight and struggled to get the key to open the apartment lock. Luckily Andrew heard us and came to our rescue. They seemed to be awake still anyway. The room was hot but the fan noisy. I was soon asleep and woke a few times because of the buzz of mosquitos flying around but I didn’t seem to have been bitten. 

Tuesday  25th June

Explore Istanbul, Fly Istanbul to Tashkent

Alarm at 7:30, we were up, packed, showered and out by 8:30. We caught the tram over to the old city. A lady showed us how to charge up our travel card as we realised our cards didn’t have sufficient credit so wouldn’t let us past the entrance gate onto the platform. We caught the tram passing all the main sites and up the hill to the Grand Bazaar where we got off. It’s an old warren of covered passageways full of tiny shops selling a wide range of things, mostly, touristy things like carpets, tiles and Turkish Delight. The ceilings were intricately decorated although were in a bad state of repair in places. We found a place to drink tea on low stools. Andy got apple tea which was sliced apple in the bottom of a caffetier, really nice. I had black tea and we shared a plate of sweet baklava. A real decadent breakfast!
We followed the main road back the way the tram brought us passing a roman column. I noticed cemeteries as we walked along with long thin column like inscribed headstones, all were behind walls but seemed so many tucked in between the multi-storey buildings. We walked past some ruins and down steps following a fountain and over to the Sultanahmet or Blue Mosque as it’s known, passing the German Fountain with its golden roof. 
Before entering the mosque we put the legs on our zip off shorts and I put a long sleeved blouse and head scarf on to obey the instructions. There were no queues to get into the initial courtyard. Three sides of this were needing repair work and were covered over but the main side had the decorated mosaics on. To go inside we had to take our shoes off. They were frustratingly giving out plastic bags for people to put shoes into, why you couldn’t just hold them, don’t they know there’s a war on plastics!  I put mine in my bag.  There’s a lot of work going on and often it looked like decorated wall hangings were covering the original structure to give us an idea of how intricately decorated it is. Lots of domes and tiny tiles, quite a lot of flowers on one side of the building but the main worship area was quite plain. We were walking on carpet over the same area the men pray although we were restricted to the back half of the area. The woman’s area was tiny and at the very back of the church. 
We didn’t need long to look before heading out and across Sultanahmet square with its fountains and flower beds. There were good views behind of the Blue Mosque and ahead of Hagia Sophia Museum. I liked the mosaics around the fountain especially the whirling dervishes. There was a queue to go into the Hagia Sophia and lots of tour guides promising to take us to the front of the queue if we went with them. We have limited time and hope to return to the city so instead we headed to the Basilica Cistern, as recommended by Steve. A few steps down and we were beneath the city. 336 columns 9m high hold up the domed ceiling. It was perfectly but dimly lit by small lights at the base of the columns and small lights to show the raised pathways. Most of the marble columns were smoothed surfaced with decorations at the top. One had swirls carved in and a few were very decorated at the base. We knew there was a medusa head on one but didn’t see it as we’d not realised it was at the base. The translations on the information boards are difficult to understand at times as it’s not a native speaker that’s written them but we are grateful to have so much English around us. Outside were tourists boards showing that you used to be able to see the cistern by boat!
We walked round a few streets heading back towards to the Hagia Sophia. We found the Million Stone which the Romans used to measure the distance from Constantinople to other Roman cities. Round it were wooden boards with the distance from here to places such as Bishkek is 5118km and Dublin 3414km. We walked along the Hippodrome which we’d missed when we headed straight to the Blue Mosque earlier. The German Fountain is at one end and several obelisk columns at the other end including an Egyptian one with clear hieroglyphs on it. The serpent column has lost its heads. I loved the Turkish flags flapping in the wind and how the columns lined up nicely with the minarets from the mosque. 
We wandered through the streets heading towards the Topkapi Palace. We walked through another bazzar not the maze like before but the ceilings on one side were domed but we had no ceiling above us. I was starting to feel hungry and was quite pleased to see a cafe selling Turkish delight. We sat and ordered a local cheese slice dish and drinks. I then chose 2 types of Turkish Delight, fig and cherry, both were covered in pistachios. They sliced up small pieces and gave them to us so we could eat as we went. 
Topkapi Palace is shut on Tuesdays so we headed along the walls and into Gulhane Park. Very shady beneath the tall trees with fountains, well groomed gardens and flower beds. The Palace walls looked down on us with the occasional roofs peaking over. We walked the full length and up to the main gate where there was another column. We could see out and over the Bosphorus towards the rest of the city. We walked down to the rivers edge for excellent views and tried to walk along the front but there wasn’t really a path so we headed back through the Park and down to the river front near where we’d got the ferry over last night at Eminonu. We still had 90 minutes before we needed to be on the bus back to the airport. There‘s a tower on the main land that was taller than all the surrounding buildings and would have commanding views. I wondered if we could climb up. We asked in the tourist information and the lady said we could. She also pointed out where we could get the airport bus from and gave us a tourist map. 
We crossed the Golden Horn river by the Galata Bridge and after struggling to cross the road due to railings we climbed the steep hill up to the foot of the Galata Tower. There was a long queue to get in, it had taken 30 minutes to get there. I checked and it was 35 TL each to get in, cash only. We didn’t have the cash so that made the decision to not risk going up. We headed down aiming to cross the 2nd bridge which was the railway but couldn’t see how to get on it. I was sure I’d seen people walking on it. We managed to cross the road and get onto the Ataturk bridge as they both start close together and could then see the steps leading up. We continued over this bridge and walked along the shore line looking for the airport bus stop. There were lots of coaches and minibuses but we couldn’t see where we’d get it. We knew there was a stop up by the Sultanahmet square so headed uphill. We walked through an open bazaar on some very narrow streets with much more practical things for sale such as clothes, shoes and household goods.
We twisted round through lots of different streets and several times saw signs for the Grand Bazaar so we knew roughly which direction we needed to head in but I think most of the signs were for cars as it got quite confusing at times. Andy got his phone map out and we discovered we were on the edge of the bazaar so we headed past it on the outside until we found the tramline and could head back towards the square. We stopped for ice cream at Galata Dondurma. My first new dairy since turning 50. We both had 2 flavours the bitter dark chocolate was amazing but I’ve had dark chocolate in the 50 before 50 so I had a walnut as well which was lovely and nutty but overwhelmed by the chocolate. They melted very quickly in the heat! Andy had the dark chocolate as well with coconut. 
We found the bus stop but no buses were waiting, there’d been 3 in the morning hence us seeing where to get on. I’d asked earlier and was told they go every 20 minutes and take an hour. We could see people arriving with luggage then after 20 minutes the bus came and off loaded. We were pleased not to have luggage so could just get on and pay by card again. 
A 50 minute journey. They dropped us on the top level by arrivals. We headed in having to go through security straight away. I beeped again but didn’t when I went through a second time! We saw 2 signs for the left property but knew we had to go downstairs. We ended up coming out and then realised that all the lifts and escalators were back inside! We collected our bags and had to pay cash, luckily they accepted US dollars, but gave change in liras. There was little queue for our flight check-in but we weren’t given seats together. We struggled to find the way into passport check despite walking past it! There weren’t many queues here or for the next bag check so we were through in plenty of time and wandered to our gate. Boarding was meant to start at 17:35 but was delayed however we set off on time. Andy was sat on a row with 2 people traveling separately and the guy next to him was happy to swap seats with me. There are plenty of seats free so we could have been given seats together!
I finished the ‘55 Steps’ film, which I really enjoyed, as Andy watched a film he’d started then listened to music. The food was amazing grilled veg with rice. Humous, bread, olive oil and lemon juice. A mini donut covered in the sweet syrup. I love the rounded end of the metal knife. 
A smooth flight, we watched Downsizing which was Matt Damon and his environmental cause. There was only 30 minutes left before we landed so I tried to get on top of the diary and delete photos that don’t need to be uploaded. There was no where to charge your phone on this flight. 
We landed on time and it was a shorter journey to passport control and despite being gone 1am there were plenty of staff on duty so passport check was quick. I was anxious in the queue seeing people with slips of paper with their passports we had nothing. You don’t need a visa from the UK. I was through first no problem and then Andy. It was a long wait for bags with the usual pushing by others to be next to the carousel with their trolleys and block everyone else. 
We’d booked a transfer from the hotel and our driver met us with an Exodus sign. He told us it’s hot here at the moment 26 degrees at 2am it’s been 43 during the day. He says that’s normal for where we’ll be going!
It wasn’t far to the hotel, we passed lots of new buildings. He pointed out a nice restaurant nearby our hotel which is quite posh with big rooms. We have a twin room but the beds are almost doubles. A couple on our tour arrived by taxi. They live in China but are British.
We had a quick chat about tomorrow as Andy had enquires about a tour but it seems quite expensive. 

Wednesday 26th June

Lake Charvak

A good sleep in the cool provided by the aircon. Alarm set for 7:30 we slowly got up it was 8:30 by the time we had breakfast. An Asian breakfast of fried eggs and a mix of vegetables, dark bread and then a sweeter selection of fruits and slices like pudding and purple pieces turned out to be coated peanuts, We had kefir, sour curd, to drink and coffee. I think I’ll need to be more selective on other days!
We’d been researching getting out to the national park of Ugam – Chatkal. Andy had emailed about a day’s tour which looked really interesting but left little time for hiking and cost $90 US each. The guide book talked about shared taxis or even a private one. We’d been given the mobile of Dilshod, the tour rep, so Andy connected with him via WhatsApp. He encouraged us to go by taxi, recommending Lake Charvak as a place to go. Instead of trying to get shared taxis we organised a private taxi for UZS 220,000, that’s about £20. As we waited for the taxi a German came into the hotel after his morning run he said it was 30 degrees at home, it seemed mad to be running at 10am.  Our taxi arrived at 10:20, I had my usual anxiety about lack of seatbelt!. He stopped at a bank so we could change money $US 100 gave us UZS 840,000. Got to get used to the amount of zeros! 
Fascinating watching the changing architecture from modern shops to ornate building. Lots of fountains and trees painted white for the bottom meter of their trunk. A lot of building work going on. We presumed we were on the right road as many road sellers had inflatable rings for sale, other lakes may exist.  
It took 35 minutes to get out of the built up area on good roads all at least two lanes through the city and no hold ups. We were then on a three lane dual carriageway and I was surprised when we got to the first town that we stopped at a zebra crossing! Our driver seemed to think the lanes were optional but that was fine as most of the other drivers did too. Miles of very flat agricultural land, it took awhile to see the hills through the heat haze. We whizzed through towns with identical houses either one or two story’s high and all painted red and yellow. Long yellow walls as well in places.
After an hour we reached an industrial area, a river flowed beside us and I wondered if there was hydroelectric power here. We’d seen plenty of wind power as we landed at Istanbul. After 70 minutes of flat driving we started the climb into the mountains. A few had snow on top but we wouldn’t be going that far! I felt wind swept sat in the back of the car with the windows open as there was no aircon, it was a warm breeze coming in! We’d spotted one cyclist on one section but mostly it was cars. There are also plenty of shared taxis around so hopefully we’ll get a lift back. 
We started seeing the railway lines just before the town where the track started from Hotjikent. Above this town rose the dam wall. Hotjikent had more interesting houses visible from the road side. The car struggled getting up the hill to reach the lake. High walls blocked out our initial views of the water.
We turned into the resort of Chimgan well below the town of the same name and were dropped at the entrance. We walked down the grass passing some odd statues which mostly seemed to be gnomes! We headed between the hotels and down to the waters edge passing a cafe then swimming pool. The beach huts here are open rectangular fabric covered frames with curtains and a raised platform with carpets on. Lots of families had them. At the water’s edge people could rent carpets and large umbrellas for shade. 
There was lots of water sports including boats and jet skis. We’d initially planned to explore on foot but it was really hot. We headed back to the hotels for WiFi as we wanted to know more about the train back but Andy found a website that implied it was weekends only. We asked about the boat tour on the lake at another hotel and headed back for that. The boat was out on the lake so we started to walk along the beach but ended up being stopped by a fence. We could have got round it but someone official looking was telling some people to get out if the water at the resort beyond the fence. We climbed up the hill a little bit didn’t find a better path so headed back.  
We watched the boat coming in about 1:15 we weren’t sure how long it had been out for. We talked about paddling but the sand from higher up the beach was replaced by stones at the shoreline. A few people were on the boat so we joined them and over the next 30 minutes it filled up. We bought corn on the cob for 5,000 (46p) and the tickets were only 20,000 (£1.84) each. We motored out towards the dam rather than into the middle of the lake that we’d seen the last boat go. Lots of speed boats headed the same way too and I wondered if there was something to see but perhaps the drivers just wanted to scare the riders as the sped towards the cliffs. It was a lovely cool 45 minutes with music playing and families having fun. Great being able to see so many snow topped mountains.
After we got off the boat Andy had a quick swim and I paddled on the edge as it was hot sand and the water cooled it. We tried to get tea at what we now think was a picnic area where people could fill their own teapots although, they all looked the same. We got drinks at the cafe area above the pool instead. Lemon for me and peach for Andy, they were in glass bottles and the bottom was a bottle opener. 14,000 (£1.28) for them both. An older local guy with his wife came to talk to us. Very difficult with no common language except the names of places. He mentioned Khiva as though they were from there or recommended it. It was also hard to communicate as suddenly loud music was put on. We pointed at pictures in the lonely planet guide. They both wore traditional kind of dress but different to what we’ve seen as she was in white with sparkly sequins on her head dress, ladies mostly seem to wear black. He had a little black hat that appeared to be made of felt. They both had gold capped teeth when they smiled.
We thought about walking up to the road to get a taxi down to Hojakent but decided to get one from in front of the hotel. I thought we were getting a good deal as I must have put the wrong fingered in my app for 40,000 UZS thinking it was 92p rather than £3.68 but it was still a decent distance down. We’d hoped to see the petroglyphs didn’t know where there were and couldn’t get WiFi before we left the resort. We hoped to get more information in the town but the taxi driver dropped us at the train station, where a train to Tashkent was waiting. We were surprised as we’d struggled to get information about timetables. We asked a friendly guard and he tapped out 1612 on his phone and then 1815 when we asked about a later train. We had 20 minutes before the train left to decide on trying to find the petroglyphs which we thought were near Charvak. We couldn’t get online,  Andy tried using data but used his total limit in very little time. Another guard spoke a little more English and got us to put in where we wanted into his phone but there was either no translation or it couldn’t find them. He thought this was the last train so with minutes to spare we jumped on. It cost USZ 7,000 which is 65p for both of us! Real hard wood seats and no tables. The windows were open to bring in the cool dusty air. We now got to see the real towns we went through that have built gradually over the years and looked more lived in than the new places along what I imagine is a new fast road. The original conductor sat near us and then came over. He’d found pictures of the petroglyphs that are on the wall of a restaurant near the station.  He got the guard who spoke some English to help explain. He came back later to ask where we were going in Tashkent and tried to get an English speaker to explain on the phone but the train was too noisy to hear. He googled where our hotel was and told us to stay on the train to the end of the line. Initially he said we could get a bus then said he’d drive us, we were trying to work out if it’s walking distance or not as much to get our bearings as anything. So kind! We’d been looking forward to trying the metro though!
I really enjoyed the train journey for seeing local people and feeling people wanted to help us. People walked up and down the train selling different food or drink. A lady had some white round balls which I’d seen in a few places and mentioned to Andy. He bought 6 for 4,000 (37p) and I made him try them first not knowing what they were. His face showed horror and he described them as salty sour goat cheese balls, they were really sour and dried your mouth instantly. I loved it! Andy wasn’t so keen but I ate all 3 of mine!
The train slowly headed towards Tashkent stopping frequently, going slowly at times then speeding up. People just walk across the trainlines to exit the station. Andy says he saw the name of one station but it wasn’t until we got into Tashkent that the guard walked down the train announcing the next station. It was a 2 hour journey and so much more interesting than the taxi had been. The station at the end of our journey was, in comparison, very up to date with electronic signage but no bridge just a raised path like at a level crossing. Our guard directed us out past the waiting taxi drivers and flagged a taxi down for us as he said it would be cheaper, 6,000 (55p) a bargain. The hotel was a mile or so from the train station. 
Back in our room I showered and washed some clothes and then we headed out to Sim Sim restaurant at the end of our road, as recommended by our driver last night. We were led upstairs to sit on sofas with a low table. The whole place was impressively decorated. It sounded like a party downstairs and I was amazed how big the place was as people kept arriving. We couldn’t understand the English menu as it just had weights next to each item but no price or explanation of what to do. They gave us a Russian menu so we had a rough idea what the prices were but it didn’t quite marry up with the English menu. I showed them my app that’s says I don’t eat meat etc then said please show me what I can eat. I ordered 3 vegetable kebabs mixed veg, potato and mushroom and a pine nut salad with soft cheese. Andy worked his way through the menu too and ordered 2 meat kebabs and a salad. Mine came first as I ordered before Andy had worked the menu out. The Uzbeki bread was lovely and I enjoyed the salad. My kebabs were on a plate but the skewer has been removed. They gave us a salsa sauce to go with it. I was enjoying it until I realised there was something too chewy between the mushrooms. Andy confirmed it was meat fat. I’d eaten just the vegetables. I gave it back showing my ‘I’m vegetarian’ phrase. Andy was lovely trying to use the phrase book to explain that I might be ill tomorrow. I am a little anxious how I’ll be as we walk around the city tomorrow. I’d eaten enough. Andy explained that we didn’t want to pay for mine and they did deduct the cost of the two I’d returned. The meal came to an amazingly cheap 107,180 UZS (£9.50) even with Andy’s beer and 15% service charge added. I did feel they worked hard for that as they kept coming to the table to check on us and top up our water glasses. 
We walked back towards the hotel and realised neither of us were paying attention to the other side of the road where our hotel was. Four lines of trees separated to two sides of the road. However, we found it easily, it was 10pm and bed time. 

Thursday 27th June

Exploring Tashkent
Up at 7 and off for a run. We turned left out of the hotel and tried to run between the trees like we’d walked yesterday but it was too overgrown in our chosen direction We crossed the road and headed along the pavement, which we decided must be maintained by the individual property owners. In-front of some of the houses it was nicely tiled and others it was very rough or nonexistent. A few times I felt like we were running through someone’s front garden! The roads in this part of Tashkent are laid out in a young grid system – after a mile we were at a T junction so turned right along the busy road and right again at the next main junction. We reached the road that we’d crossed previously, we headed down there to the war graves park, which was on the corner of the road to the hotel. We wandered through the well kept grounds seeing small graves for the regular soldiers from World War II and at the end were large busts above headstones with dates in the late 70’s or 80’s. I wondered if it was the generals who had all survived the war!

We managed 4.25 miles and it wasn’t too hot. Showers then breakfast with Doug and Fei who had explored the underground yesterday. 

We met the rest of the group (16 of us in total) at 10:30, Dilshod had sent us a WhatsApp so we knew the arrangements. He was a little late which gave us time to chat to others. We separated so we could meet others. Melissa is American but works in Stuttgart for the army, she’s previously worked at the base near Harrogate so explored the Dales plus every country in Europe.  Dilshod explained the next few days especially how hot it will be. Sounds like we’ll have plenty of free time to explore.  

I’m disappointed that although water is provided and they talk about reducing plastic but it’s all from larger plastic bottles. I’m surprised the hotel didn’t have a proper filter system. I know when travelling people prefer to see the seal broken so they know it’s not a refilled bottle and therefore potentially not clean water. A few on the tour have refillable bottles but I’ve yet to spot anyone else with filter bottles. I did see locals with massive bags filled with collected empty bottles so wonder what the recycling system is, I presume they’ll get a paid for the bottles.

We were taken by a coach into town. Dilshod gave us a history of the country plus pointed out the parliament building, people park, concert hall, permanent circus building and mosque. Many with striking blue domes. High rise flats are decorated with mosaic tiles which stand out from typical soviet buildings. The names of the gates from the original wall of Tashkent are given to areas of the city. The last parts of the city wall were destroyed in the 1966 earthquake. First stop was the bank as people still needed to change money. We got off but didn’t walk far and sadly we’d didn’t spot the ice cream parlour until too late and we were back on the coach!

We headed to the Khast Imom, the holy area. The first mausoleum was for a Holy Imom it was made in the 16th century with fired mud bricks but the dome was damaged by the earthquake of 1966. Dervishes lived here in soviet times, they originate from Bukhara even though we think of them as Turkish. They don’t know who are buried in many of the tombs. It was interesting listening to all Dilshod explained to us but I felt sorry for people who were wanting to pray. He kept looking at Ayyub who knew the history already, he and Rose talked about going to pray as we moved on but didn’t. You could hear the call to prayer. The gardens around us were well kept but odd that the water was being sprayed at the height of the day rather than in the evening. 

Bear will be jealous as Martin has brought his rabbit! I nearly brought him but worried I’d loose him. Martin says Simon his Rabbit has his own social media. 

Onto another mausoleum or medresa of unknown origin, Barak Khan. Beautifully decorated in the Uzbekistan style which is now an open museum with shops in each corner. Tashkent is a centre for wood carving so we were shown the clever book holders that could be adjusted to different angles and are made from one piece of wood. 

Andy spotted birds going in and out of a dome, a tile was missing. We walked round the outside of the madrasah. Next to this is a larger new  mosque/conference centre being built, interesting to see the use of metal to hold up dome instead of the old style with brick. 

Across the Khast Imom Square was a small medresa, now a library, holding the 7th century Osman Quran written on deer skin said to be the worlds oldest. It’s famous for the copies made of it and distributed. There’s a certificate of world heritage to show it’s authentic. It’s the biggest attraction in Tashkent. It’s a large book written on velum in huge text. If they’d written a bit smaller it would have required fewer deer skins! The soviets band religion but luckily didn’t destroy the madrasahs. Uzbekistan got its independence in 1991 and religion is widespread again with 89%  Sunni Islam. 

The next mosque, Hazroti Imom Friday mosque, only 12 years old, had an electric signage outside and holds 3500 people inside. Decorations were copies of a mosque in Samankent. A clock showed when to pray each day which is updated on a Friday and the times are decided by sunrise and set. We couldn’t go in as it was prayer time and there was a special carpet we weren’t to go on but we could look through the doors. 

There is only one ladies mosque in the country there is often a very small area at the back for them in other mosques. They are meant to stay at home and their role is to teach the children to pray, I quite like the irony of that. 

A 15 minute drive to our lunch restaurant Novoi, which means rain as it’s free from heaven. Dilshod had ordered vegetarian salads so we all tucked in and they brought different breads. Most people ordered soup and kebabs. I was amazed thinking how full I got on the salads. They were very tasty. I was aware how time was going by and we’d not seen much yet! Salad was 22,000 (£2) each and 8,000 (74p) for a coke. I wondered how they’d spilt the bill but Dilshod told us all the prices and went round getting the money. I was concerned that it was 4pm and we’d not really seen much but the meal was a lovely experience. He’d originally said we’d be back at the hotel 5:30 ish. We talked about going on the underground independently but then Dilshod announced we were going to the Independence Square and he’d show us the underground. I’d spoken to Doug and he said it was quite easy to get around and they asked people which side they needed to be on. You can now take pictures in the stations as until 2 years ago they were kept secret in case the soviets invaded. 

Dilshod explained loads of things during the day. Bazaar is from Persian meaning ‘there is a need for something’ hence them selling everything or meeting up with people for information. They expect you to bargain. 

We were dropped at the edge of the Mustaqillik maydoni or Independence Square by the canal, Dilshod said we could walk back to hotel following it, we knew it was only a few streets away from our hotel if we’d done that. 

In the park area of Independence square was a War memorial with all the names of the 40,000 Uzbeks soldiers killed in World War II on metal books. Again a lovely green garden area. There was an eternal flame with crying mother monument. Andy sat on the marble steps but soon found out that the stone was very hot.

We walked through the trees to the main square that has parades on at various times of the year. There were lots of fountains in front of the gate which had pelicans on top. They have no shortage of water despite being double land locked, the Tian Shan mountains give them plenty of water. Dilshod confirmed they get heavy rain which helped us understand why the open drains by the side of the roads are so deep. A golden globe was perched on top of a column where a Lenin statue once stood. It has a map of Uzbekistan on it and stands in the West of the square to show they are developing in the right direction. You think you’re taking a picture of a building and hope to capture people wearing local dress until you realise they are carrying smart phones and taking pictures too! The religion here means the ladies don’t need to wear headscarf’s except in mosques. 

From the square we went down into the underground metro station the used to be called Lenin. Dilshod paid for our tokens 1200 USZ 11p each. We headed to a few stations which were amazingly decorated especially the astronauts in Kosmonavtiar. 

It was now time to head back to the hotel but we formed a small rebel group with Frank to ride a few more lines. We headed to Pushkin but missed the stop as we were chatting about going up the TV tower. Next stop was the end of the line so we were soon back. Frank has an app called MapMe on his phone as a way of seeing where we are. We tried looking for a statue but it wasn’t in the park next to the exit. We tried to ask a guy and he pointed so we followed in that general direction but it just took us to a main road. Across the road from there it looked like a military complex with recruits on parade as we walked passed. We were able to get across the main road by an under pass by the canal and back to the metro station. Andy took a picture of the poster and we asked a guard where the statues were. Another guy helpfully showed us and he ended up on the same train as us to Amir Timur station, named after the statue and once leader of the country. He kindly told us how we could get to the statue. We came out on the wrong side of the road but walked round looking at the buildings before heading into the park to look at the grand Mongolian on his horse. We could see the dome of another building further round the giant roundabout we were on so headed there, it appeared to be a museum. Back on the underground and on to Bodomzor. The stations were slightly less grand now. We couldn’t see the 375m TV tower when we reached land level because of the trees but mapme got us there. Sadly Andy and I didn’t have our passports so we waited whilst Frank went up.

Frank was good fun, even enjoying Andy’s humour. As we crossed roads, despite being American, he was happy to go across without waiting for the lights to change at traffic lights. He said he’d been told ‘Don’t be a squirrel’ and just go for it as the cars would stop.

We had no trouble getting to Mirzo Ulug’Beg Station and came out next to a recreation park that Andy had spotted on the map. He’d looked on google maps and it appeared to be a wasteland but now it was fun fair full of rides. We walked through it and headed back to the hotel stopping to get an ice cream. It was 10pm and the hotel restaurant was still serving but didn’t seem to be have much on the menu. Doug had just ordered so we joined him. I had a salad as my first 2 choices weren’t available. Andy decided not to bother.

Upstairs to pack and get ready for tomorrow.

Friday 28th June

08:30 to Samarkand 2 hours 8 minutes in the bullet train 300km.
Alarm went off at 6, out for a run along the same route but it was cooler than yesterday. We had 30 minutes to shower, pack and eat breakfast. We were the last to eat along with Doug and Fei. 
As we were getting ready to set off Mark spotted my Hardmoors T-shirt. Turns out he and Verity run SI Entires the company that handle online entry to races. 
We left 7:20 for the northern train station to catch the 08:30 train to Samarkand – 2 hours 8 minutes on the bullet train 300km. A big contrast to our previous train being a modern bullet train. They came round for coffee orders, Dilshod asked for me but there was no hot chocolate. We were then given a packed breakfast of mini donut and croissant and a sachet of 3 in 1 coffee which I remember from previous trips, instant coffee with a lot of sugar and creamer already in. Not very nice so we gave ours to Verity. A TV showed our route initially then craft videos. Tashkent is a big city and we seemed to go a long way before we reached flat agricultural land. Cars were stopped at level crossing and we swept through rural towns. 
According to the map in our book it looked like we went through Kazakhstan albeit only briefly.
Dilshod gave a us history of the city as we drove into town. Samarkand is steeped in history, dating back 2,500 years and impacted by such figures as Alexander the Great, who loved the city, Genghis Khan, who destroyed the original city and enslaved and killed the residents and Tamerlane (Amir Timor), who made it the capital of his empire in the 14th Century. The Soviets made it their capital initially before Tashkent, it seems like there’s been a lot of switching around. The coach had to switch sides of the road as they’re updating the road since adding the tramlines.
First stop was the Observatory built in the 1420’s by Mirzo Ulugbek 1394 -1449, grandson of Amir Timor. He did a lot of scientific work on the stars prior to the telescope being invented. We had to pay 10,000 to take pictures. Built on a hill but they’re not sure how it worked as it’s built underground. There was a circular shape built to signify where the observatory would had stood.  All that left is a double meridian arch, a sextant that came 30m above ground originally. They have information from his students, who set up bases elsewhere, to give an idea. 
Frank bought T-shirt’s from the boot of a car, they were nice with camels on. Several others got off to buy t-shirts and they then teased him about getting a better price. 
The old city, Afrosiab, is now an archeological site and looks like mounds of earth by the road. There’s access to a few sites such as the Jewish cemetery.  
We visited the Shah-I-Zinda, Tomb of the Living King Mausoleum, burial place of family members from Amir Timor and a cousin of the Prophet Mohammed. Andy had to cover his legs as his shorts showed his knees. I had a T-shirt on so didn’t need to cover my shoulders but I carried a scarf just in case. A lot of plain brickwork but the entrances and domes were covered in mosaics, mostly dark and pale blue and white. Further back the buildings were mainly decorated with fired terracotta which was more of a relief lace like decoration than mosaic flat stones. Several different mosques with tombs inside from various family members of Amir Timor’s family. Some were decorated but others were white washed inside. The decoration was usually mosaics but sometime it was painted on. It was all restored to this over the top brilliance in 2005 which is a shame as I’d have like to see it before. There were photos from prior to the restorations where they built them domes back up again. We headed behind the buildings and enjoyed seeing them undecorated and the plants growing out of the brick work. The cemetery on both sides were Soviet. 
Walked up to Hazrat-Hizr mosque converted from the Zoroastrian religion to a mosque and is very modern. We didn’t go in but crossed the road and walked up past the Bibi-Khanym Mosque to our lunch spot the Art Cafe Norgis. We were disappointed not to sit cross legged on the traditional seats. We were in groups of 4, we sat with Fei and Doug. We ordered 4 salads. The aubergine was really nice and the Greek salad but others had meat sadly but it worked out fine. 
Bibi-Khanym Mosque was built for Timor and held 15,000 people. There was something about how and where it was built that it didn’t last long before it started to collapse and they couldn’t pray inside. Earthquakes have done further damage. I found it interesting to see it not fully restored but believe it was partially restored in the 1970’s but needs on going work. The front of columns and buildings were nicely polished but rougher edges on the backs on them
Inside were painted ‘images of paradise’ as they had palm trees but none grow in Uzbekistan. There’s a photo that shows how damaged it was in the 1970’s but the Russians were happy to reconstruct it as has a historical rather than religious significance when it was built by Timor the Great War ‘hero’. The minarets were twice the height originally. The far building we couldn’t go in and they have no plans to restore it other than to keep it safe to show what it was like in Timor’s time. We could peak through the window and see that the colours inside had more orange than elsewhere.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque was built on the ancient trade street next to the Siab Bazaar. We had a wander round the market and Andy bought some walnuts. The stall holders all wanted to get us to buy spices or nougat. The only bread they sell is circular with a flat area in the middle, the same bread we get in restaurants. It rained a couple of times for a few minutes only, it was a welcome relief.
We walked on to the grand Registan (sandy place) Square flanked by the three grand madrasahs of Ulughbeg (15th C), Sherdor (17th C) and Tilya Qori (17th C). It seemed to be the place to have your wedding photos taken, we saw several bridal couples. A massive complex decorated mostly in blues with a touch of yellow especially for the tigers of Sherdor. We walked into the far madrasah of Tilya Qori which has a lot of gold decoration. There were pictures of how the ruins were in the 1900’s and I almost wished it was like that still although the grandeur is amazing and I see why Samarkand is a centre of tourism as it was an important stop on the Silk Road. 
We sat in the shade on a courtyard where some boys were knocking apples from a tree and gave us one each. Fei spotted mulberries in the next tree and she and Andy ended up with red hands picking them for us. Really lovely and sweet. 
One of the guys wanted to go up one of the minarets so a few of us went but only 5 were allowed up at a time. We waited on the first floor and could look down on the courtyard of the Ulughbeg madrasah and across at each other as we could go along 2 sides a short way. We understood why we couldn’t all go up the tower as it was hard to get past each other and only enough space for one person to peer out of the top. Excellent views but limited by the heat haze. Despite only sticking my head and phone, as camera, out I was quite anxious by the height. 
We headed to our hotel The Malika Prime. Very posh again, it was 7pm by the time we arrived. There are a few sights nearby that we were keen to look at as they get lit up at night.
We were on the top floor where there’s an open air balcony. A few from our group were sat there drinking as we headed out along the University Boulevard towards Novia square. We were going to look at the restaurant that Dilshod recommended but didn’t spot it. Instead we walked through Novai Park and found a stadium full of life. A lady was singing in the centre to the recorded music, the auditorium wasn’t very full. Guards stopped us from getting much of a view. Further a long in the park was a fair ground with rides. We walked through to another statue then back. Andy had found Bellissimo Pizza restaurant online so we headed there but popped into a lovely looking ice cream and bakery first. A few interesting looking flavours but we decided to go for pizza first. The guy looked really keen to explain the menu to us and luckily there was a vegetarian option. We shared a medium pizza with added jalapeños. We could see them cooking it including spinning the dough and it was lovely. I was too full for ice cream so we walked back. We stopped at the statue of Amir Timor and a strip of large lights sign saying ‘I ❤️ Samarkand’. A hot air ballon was stationed outside our hotel, they were charging 20 dollars to rise up and see the illuminated Amir Timor’s mausoleum at the end of our street. We walked up to the mausoleum as it’s lit up beautifully and we met Verity and Mark who were out for a walk too.
Back at the hotel Melissa and Kate, a lady from another tour, were on the top floor. Melissa and Frank been up in the balloon. We found out that a few people had been to the Registan to see it lit up. Kate’s tour had been there before arriving at the hotel. Bed by 10.

Saturday 29th June

Bus ride to Bukhara
We set the alarm for 7am and headed out for a short run – down through the university area, along the Main Street, a loop around Novi park and then back again. The trees kept us cool. Our watches took awhile to find satellites so I’ve no idea how far we ran but we ran past the hotel and round the square in front of it to get closer to 30 minutes. 
Breakfast was similar to the last hotel but fewer vegetables. We joined a table with Frank & Joan and more came from our group. We were ready at 9am to walk to Gur-E-Amir mausoleum, where Amir Timor and the male members of his family are burried.  Dilshod gave us a history but it was starting to sound so similar to yesterday’s information and I felt frustrated as I wanted just to wander around but we’d not got in yet. I was fascinated by the small birds flying around especially under the arches. This is another complex with extravagantly decorated front entrance then a courtyard which contained his throne stone before the main mausoleum. 
Inside the main room, where the graves stones are, it was as lavishly decorated as other places. Some sections wwre the original but a lot has been reconstructed and restored. Several of his sons were buried there too and grandson Ulugbek. The actual bodies are in the crypt below but we’re no longer able to go down there. I’d wondered why there was a stick with something hanging from it next to a coffin on a raised area to the side of the main graves and Dilshod said it’s a connected to a Shaman. A very large group of ladies came in from a tour group and sat round with us. Some prayed and others were fascinated by us and wanted photos with us! They were dressed in long tunics with trousers and loose headscarf’s rather than hiding every scrap of hair. 
I liked the outside on one side of the main building where you could see the ruined edge of arches and the raw design in stone that’s beautifully painted inside, especially the stalactite design. Again I would have liked to have seen more in ruin!
We headed to OQ Saray mausoleum just behind the main mausoleum and found the very plain domed structure tucked between buildings. Inside the walls were beautifully decorated and we could go down into the crypt. From here we walked back towards the hotel but stopped to look in Rukhobof  mausoleum, it’s meant to be the city’s oldest monument and was very plain with several coffins of stone laid out. I was told not to take any photos. 
When we’d been running earlier in the morning the fountains were flowing but not now. We finished packing, we’d left our running things out to dry and met everyone by 11. Dilshod had my hotel registration slip as we have to keep them all to show when we leave the country. 
As we headed out of town Dilshod told us about local industry and his time cotton picking as a teenager and university student as it was compulsory during the ‘Cotton Campaign’. I fell asleep. I woke a few times trying to soak up as much as I could of the agricultural land and towns we went through.  
Lunch stop was in the town of Navoi. Dilshod ordered Plov for everyone, a traditional dish that they love over here of rice and meat. I had vegetable kebabs which were quite plain but fine.  
We stopped at Rabit Malik, which was a hotel for merchants, a caravanserai (Zarafshan). They were all along the Silk Road and were also centres for trade centre for information and news. This one was initially constructed as a palace hence being out of the local town. The nearby airport and petrol station bring you back to modern times that it’s certainly not quite the oasis in the desert as it once was. It was perfect just the stone arch that had lost most of its grandeur. Behind it were reconstructed walls showing an outline of the buildings which would have stood here. In places earth mounds were on top of the brick walls which made it feel more authentic and there was an area which looked like a stove with chimney.
We crossed the busy road to a large covered water reservoir/well, a Sardova, made by the nomads. A domed roof with a pool of water slightly underground. There were windows to allow cold air in and a hole in the top for the heat to be released. A special type of grass grows on the edge which acts as filtration. They took the water off the top as that was the cleanest, cool water which was used for humans only. Birds flew around inside.
We’d seen a cyclist on the main road and he’d stopped here, Martin asked him where he was from as it was so hot and he had little but water with him. He’d only come from Navoi which was 20k away.
Another 2 hour bus journey arriving in Bukhara at 17:30, we’re staying in the Kasvar hotel in the heart of the city. We had welcome drinks with snacks before going up to our rooms, again large and posh. We agreed to go out for tea as a group. We’re here two nights so it was good to have time to wash a few clothes out. The BBC thinks it’s 35 degrees at 19:00, we’d been warned it would be warmer here! 
We walked only a few streets and already we were in the heart of the old city of Bukhara with the light beginning to fade on some of the buildings. Already I was impressed that they seemed to be less over the top in decoration. The Old Bukhara restaurant has a roof top section. We sat and looked at the menu which was clearly in several languages including English. There were three tables and we sat with Rose and Ayyub. Dilshod initially sat with us then had to go and sort something out. I ordered Khachapuri Georgian samosa with cheese and Horovats, fried eggplants with tomato sauce. Rose ordered Uzbek yoghurt which came in a massive jug so we all shared it. Lovely evening chatting and nice food. They’d not come with us this morning as there was an important pilgrimage place for them to go, they’d checked with Dilshod and he arranged a taxi to take them. We were disappointed not to realise that it meant they didn’t see the Gur-E-Amir mausoleum as there wasn’t time. We would have waited if we’d realised.
The two of us walked around the streets afterwards without an aim initially but then headed for a tower that was well lit. It took awhile to find it and it turned out to be a minaret, Dilshod often says the minarets would have once been twice the size of the ones we’d seen previously we now believe him. All in all we feel really impressed as the whole place seems less grand but also so many monuments packed in close together.  We wandered roughly in the right direction back and came out of an alley right next to the restaurant!
From there we headed straight back to the hotel but round the main meeting place, the Lyabi Khauz pool with touristy tables round it. It was full of life despite being 10:30. School holidays start on the 25th of May each year for 3 months.

Sunday 30th June

Exploring Bukhara

Up at 6:30 and out for a short run through the near empty streets. We followed the water course and stopped at places like the Lyabi Khauz pool for photos of it as it was nearly empty of people. The Lyabi Khauz complex, built in the 16th and 17th centuries, is the site of the oldest pool of its kind in Central Asia. It was a washing area but the water was rarely changed so diseases were rife. The pool is surrounded by madrasahs and a khanaka (lodging house for travelling Sufis). We were soon away from touristy places through streets where the locals live when we came across a tiny mosque. We’d been following the main water course, an open concrete sided canal. Just past the mosque we came across a park in the middle of a roundabout. We were back in the tourist part and ran past a few monuments including the Ark, which we visit later. Back to the hotel but we ran a little further as we’d only run about 2.5 miles but it was all hotels, including one called Amelia, so we headed back. 
Bukhara is the best preserved mediaeval city in Central Asia, this UNESCO World Heritage Site dates back over 2,000 years. We’d seen so little but I was already very excited. 
After breakfast we were taken by bus at 8:30 and passed a few places we’d run by this morning. There was a children’s park where we were dropped. First stop the Samanid Mausoleum, the oldest piece of Islamic architecture in Central Asia and burial site of the 10th Century Emir, Ismail Samani. Good to start early as it was hot already. A plain coloured building. It wasn’t destroyed by Chengis Khan because it was in the cemetery area, the other graves have now been moved away.  The walls we saw are the original decorative stone art work as it was well built. Fired bricks and alabaster to hold it together. Very cool inside with the same brick only decoration inside, no paint, very impressive. As usual whilst sitting outside a guy wanted to take a picture with us. Andy had seen this guy yesterday in Samarkand. 
We saw a section of the old city wall some of it has been restored. Then stopped at a metal carving place, the guy chipped away on the metal plate, very time consuming delicate work. Dilshod showed us a cradle that they’ve used for many centuries, they used wooden pipes instead of nappies to drain the urine away beneath the mattress. For the first 40 days the mother doesn’t do anything but care for the baby and doesn’t show the baby to anyone but family. 
Andy bought a wide brimmed hat and managed to bargain it from $10 to $5 as he started to walk away by saying he already had a hat. 
Next stop was Chasham Ayub Mausoleum built where the spring of Job was found. Dervishes lived here too. They were redecorating inside so we couldn’t see the well. There was also a history of the wells and bathhouses of the city. There’s two bathhouses still in use in the city.
We stopped in a tea house I had coke thinking it will keep my stomach from picking up bugs. Not everyone had tea to cool them but a few did. 
From here Boloi Havz ‘Friday’ mosque was close by, we’d stopped there this morning on our run and took photos. 20 wooden pillars outside with the stalagmite decoration at the top, it was called ‘40 pillars’ because of the reflection in the pool in front. It was softer decoration on some of the ceiling and doorway of the entrance. You can spot the tourist trail as there were wooden benches in the shade at the front where we sat as Dilshod gave us a history. Again the Russians were happy to restore it when it was damaged by earthquakes as it was a historic rather than religious place. We went in and it was modestly but beautifully decorated, a lot of white. 
Back outside Andy got chatting to some children who were learning English he brought them over for pictures and chat with our group. 
Over the road is the Ark a 5th century citadel and the oldest building in Bukhara. The walls on this side were restored but in the bus we passed the less restored walls. Two prison cells were built into the entrance area to remind people what happens if you don’t pay your taxes. The next building was an ex-mosque that now holds old copies of the Koran. Such amazing decoration on each page, hardly any writing though!  The reception room was open air but had covered raised sides. Frank dressed up in traditional dress on the throne and a few others joined in. Only above the throne and the door area were decorated. Locals were selling table cloth size embroidered sheets. 
We had a bit of time to wander around but couldn’t find anywhere to get views back across the city although a guy did offer to take us to the closed off section for 40,000 (£3.75) which we thought was a bit dodgy. There were a few exhibits indoor, Andy enjoyed the aircon. 
We met the group at 12:45 and the plan was to get the bus back to the hotel. We decided to walk back as we knew we were very close having run there earlier. We enjoyed looking at the stalls which were open now. We found an amazing ruined building which is now the carpet museum. It was amazing as the outside was only partially restored. It was very intricately decorated just by the use of stones. 
We found an ice cream parlour that I’d seen earlier and chose a couple of flavours each Pineapple and blueberry for me. Watermelon and kiwi for Andy the watermelon was amazing. We tried to find the others as we bumped into Frank and he told us where they were eating lunch but they weren’t in the downstairs rooms and the waiters told us it was too hot upstairs however there was another inside section upstairs. It was hot so we had a snooze back at the hotel 
We met the others at 15:30 and I was quite surprised that we were then driven back to the Ark.
We walked to the ladies bathhouse, Hammoni and were all allowed in. Some of the rooms were really hot with plastic sheeting to keep the heat in. Lovely rooms that reminded me of the Turkish baths in Harrogate.
We walked through back streets to get different views of Poi-Kalyan religious complex with its 48m Kalyan minaret dating back to the 12th century. This is the tall minaret we’d seen last night and I understand why it’s the symbol of Bukhara. Gengis Khan didn’t destroy the minaret as he used it as a watch tower. You’re no longer allowed to climb it.
The large Kalyan Mosque (15th century) with its domes topped by 288 stones had a lovely large courtyard. Inside was a mulberry bush but with yellow fruit. Corridors with archways around the side which were really cool. It was used as storage until Uzbekistan’s independence. 
Opposite is the the largest madrasah in Bukhara, the 15th century Kukeldash Madrasah. It was the only madrasah allowed to operate in soviet times as they’d lost so many Sufis during wars, this is where children get their education from not just Islamic teachings.
From here we went into a carpet factory they only have about 18 girls weaving at a time here but have a factory with 200 workers in on the outskirts of the city. We watched 2 girls at work. Its very intricate as they hand knot each thread then trim the edges. It takes months to do some of the more complicated patterns. We were given tea as the lady explained the differences in the carpets. They use camel hair as well as silk. Some lovely stuff but all very expensive but of course they’d arrange to send it home for us. The lady spoke and the guys held up the different carpets as she explained them. 
We all split up after this. With Jane, Tony, Melissa, Joan, Hannah and Sabina we headed through the streets towards Char Minar. It was slow going as we stopped to look at sights along the way. Everyone walked past a guy beneath his sign saying ‘House Museum’ I’m so pleased I looked through his gate. It was a very run down old style house. Similar to how the courtyard area is at our hotel but falling apart. He picked us all some strong smelling mint and let us look around. Naturally he expected paying but it was worth it. 
We found the Char Minar with its 4 lovely decorative towers. It was built in 1807 as the gatehouse to a medressa. A lady opened the shop but then let us go up on the balcony for 4,000 UZS we weren’t high up but  could just see across the tops of buildings. 
We headed back to the main street. Dilshod had pointed out an Italian restaurant earlier and a few of us headed there for pizza. The sun was starting to set when we left again at 8pm but I was happy to go back to the hotel and relax as we’ve been on our feet a lot today. 

Monday 1st July

Bukhara Summer Palace and train back to Tashkent.
Up for a run at 6:30, it felt warmer already. We used maps.me to get through the streets and head towards the war memorial. Again the books with the names of those who lost their lives, the bereaved mother statue but the eternal flame was wasn’t burning! The next park had a lot of frames covered in flowers in the shape of birds, horses, flower pots etc. The fountains weren’t flowing sadly but it was a long park and such a contrast to the densely populated heart of the old city we’re staying in. We started to look for the Jewish cemetery as it was nearby and ran round the outside of a football ground before finding it back close to where we’d been. The gateway was the traditional domed entrance that we see on the local mausoleums but with a Star of David on top. We knew there used to be a large population of Jews and the cemetery is extensive. We walked round a short section before heading back. We came across a large replica gateway to the old wall built on the site of one of the original gates, the mud brick city walls have long since gone. Houses now fill the area all around. It was straight forward getting back to the hotel for showers, packing up a bit and breakfast.
We met Dilshod and the rest of the group at 8:30 and headed out by bus to the Emir’s Summer Palace a short distance away. Dilshod warned us they were repairing the road so we’d have to walk 500m but everyone was relieved when the driver was able to pull up closer to the entrance.
Emirs summer palace was built from 1910 to 1920 in the northern part of city as there were a lot of trees it was thought to be cooler. It was only a short time after it was finished that the Russian Bolsheviks invaded and the Emir escaped not wanting to be killed like the Russian Royal family. The Soviets made it a museum.
There were male peacocks walking around in the main area. Andy sat near one. Fei took her bright scarf and hoped it would show it’s feathers. Neither trick worked. 
The first building was white with blue doors but heavily decorated inside totally different to what we’ve been seeing. A lot of coloured glass, mirrors and stars in greens and browns. There were a couple of other buildings on the site showing clothing and weaving. One building was double storied and had the harem upstairs. In the rooms were wall hangings of embroideries, the girls traditionally had to prepare 10 embroideries or ‘Suzanies’ as their dowry. This building was next to a large rectangular pool which now had very little water in. Again the aircon was welcoming. Walking outside there was some shade from the trees plus covered walkways with vines growing over them. The grapes weren’t quite ready to eat. Dilshod had warned us that it would be 45 degrees today and it felt it. A large part of the complex had nothing on it but grass growing, we did look at a run down building at the back but there was nothing to see.
Back into city on very crowded roads. Andy had pointed out cutouts of traffic police in the middle of the road to signify a road crossing, this was the first time I’d spotted one but also saw an adult and child sign at the road side. We’d been advised by Dilshod we needed to give the bus driver a tip, it was recommended US$2 a day per person. Andy took the envelope thinking he’d be passing it round but ended up collecting the money.
We finished packing and left our bags in Hannah’s room as they’ve kept a few downstairs rooms for us in case anyone wanted to sleep and be away from the heat. There were still a few places I wanted to see because the guide book mentioned them but as we walked I spotted the top of a smaller minaret poking out above the roof tops so finding that became our next mission. We headed through one of the covered markets and out a side door climbing over a bit of rubble. We found Mullo Tursunjon madrasah which looked unused but Andy spotted a tv aerial sticking out of the top. It was plain fronted but had blue tiles up the sides of the main entrance which were missing a few tiles and other sections needed a little work on them. We couldn’t see the minaret at this point but headed on to the next main junction and walked back towards the old town centre. 
Down a side street we saw the front of a tiny Friday mosque, a simpler design. I felt it was mosque for regular folk rather than the grand mosques we keep getting taken to. 
Ahead we could see the top of the minaret as we passed the plain Radhid madrasah. We couldn’t believe we were following the same water course that we’d run along two mornings before and we’d not seen the minaret then. On the ground across the water course from the minaret were some loose tiles which I remember seeing so I think we were concentrating on them and the minaret initially was hidden by a tree. The minaret is lovely, a lot smaller but intricately decorated with stones just like the tall one. Historic buildings on either side of it and in front a pool of water with mostly children playing in it. A guy was doing a running dive into it. Andy took his shoes off and soaked his feet. I was happy not to as the water was very green. As soon as Andy sat down a guy came over to practice his English. 
We slowly walked back to the restaurant that the others ate in yesterday. Some of our group were eating there again so we joined them. Doug had recommended the salads. The cabbage salad was spicy and the aubergine one really nice too. We had a Greek salad as well but it was no different to any other. We headed back to the hotel at 1:45 knowing we only had 45 minutes before leaving for the station so waited in Hannah’s room out of the heat. 
It took 20 minutes to get to the train station which is in Kagan a long way past the airport. I was surprised when we went out of the built up area but understand we’d left Bukhara city. The train station is next to another summer palace that was more ornate than the one we’d been to. Andy did a quick speech and handed over the tip to Alec, the driver. As we got off the bus Gypsies, as Dilshod called them, tried to get food from us, it’s always hard to see poor people and wonder about how life really is for people. I guess that’s why I like to see the contrast when we’ve wandered around the streets behind the main tourist sites. I guess we’ve not really seen inside the houses to know but certainly cars come out of complexes so I feel it’s all relative. 
We were back on the bullet train which seemed to slowly slide across the desert. We left at 15:52 and should have arrived in Tashkent at 19:40 but had a longer than 10 minute stop in Samarkand. We were brought the packed meals of donut and croissants again and both had mint tea. I loved how one of the serving staff brought out iced tea or ice cream for people on the off chance that someone would buy them as we travelled. There was a lovely sunset just as we went through a town after so many miles of desert which would have given the perfect view. We read books, updated the diary and Andy completed a brief Uzbekistan history as we’ve heard so much that it all seems to get mixed up after awhile. Hannah was impressed when she read it and said she wished we had a list of all the places we’d been so Andy did a list of those too. We then played cards for awhile. It turns out that the train had been going extra slow because of the heat. We arrived nearly an hour late. 
The coach collected us and we were soon at the hotel again. Andy got menus for people as we waited to find out about our rooms. A few were clever enough to order so they didn’t have to wait later. It was nearly 10 by the time we ate but we only got salads as we snacked in the train. 
We got our things ready as we’ll need access to overnight clothes, toothbrush etc tomorrow as we’ll be on the overnight train. Bedtime at 11! The rooms are so much cooler than in Bukhara, it’s wonderful!
Uzbekistan TimelineAndy got most of this from the Lonely Planet guide. Hope you find it useful.
~ Up to 4th century BC: various Persian tribal empires, last one was the Sogdians.~ 4th BC: Alexander the Great turned up and destroyed everything.~ 6th AD: Western Turks invaded and settled.~ 9th AD: Persians returned with the Samanid empire, capital in Bukhara.~ 13th AD: Chinggis Khan turned up and destroyed everything.
~ Early 14th AD: Amir Timor (Tamerlane) forcibly created the first real ‘Central Asian’ empire. Made Samarkand his glittering Islamic capital, and destroyed almost everything else. He died on the way to invade China.~ Mid 14th AD: Ulugbek the astronomer and scientist ruled for awhile but was murdered by his son. Lots more murder followed.~ Late 14th AD: Ozbeg came down from northern Kazakhstan and unified the feuding tribes, who started calling themselves ‘Uzbeks’.
~ Early 16th AD: The Uzbeks under Mohammed Shaybani and overtook the final remnants of Timor’s empire. The Shaybanid khans created much of Bukhara’s architecture ~ Late 16th AD: Silk Road started to fall into disuse.~ 18th AD: Various Russian and some British interference in the area.~ By 19th AD: Region was split into three weak city states: Bukhara, Khiva, Kokland.~ 1875 All these states fell to Tsarist Russia.
~ Early 20th AD: Most Central Asians identified as Turks or Persians, rather than Uzbeks or Kazakhs etc.~ 1917 Russian Revolution~ 1924 Bolsheviks created the ‘Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic’ and eventually fixed the boundaries of modern day Uzbekistan.~ 1991 Uzbekistan won independence. Islam Karimov became the first president and started a major program of restoring the historic monuments.
Dilshod favourite expressions.“I would like to say!”“Any questions? You’re welcome”

Tuesday 2nd July

Last day in Uzbekistan, afternoon train to Almaty 
A good sleep and cooler than last night. We were up at 7 and off for a run. Doug was in the lobby waiting for Dilshod as Fei had been up vomiting over night. 
It felt warmer than when we were last here despite the shade. We ran to the recreational park and round the lake. People were swimming and there was a fenced off section possibly a safer swimming area as people were on both sides. There was a beach like area too. A narrower canal or river, the Anhor, flowed fast the other side of the path. Beside this lake there was another lake with an island in it. There were 4 bridges over to it but gates on each were closed. We ran round the park then back round the lakes and back to the hotel the same route we’d come. It’s interesting to see the different living conditions as we know we are staying on a wealthier street as they are single houses and quite fancy whereas round the park they were apartment blocks. 
An ambulance was outside the hotel but they were only checking to see if Fei needed a doctor at the hotel or a hospital trip. They brought her a drip and Dilshod went for medication. We were meant to leave at 9 but waited whilst she was sorted. She and Doug stayed in the hotel whilst we left at 10:20, they’d be brought to the train station later. 
Another 40 degree day. First stop was the earthquake memorial, the Monument of Courage. At 5:23am on the 26th April 1966 Tashkent was hit by a level 9 earthquake. Soviet propaganda reported that just 8 people had died but after independence they realised a lot more people (1,000+) lost their lives. It’s because of the earthquake that Tashkent now has the wide streets and so many well built apartment blocks. A stone showing the date & a clock stopped at 5:23 had a crack across it. The crack lead across the ground to a huge statue of a man and lady carrying a child with a decorated panel behind and Kremlin inspired carvings on the reverse. Below us was the canal and the paths looked cool beneath the trees. As we drove we saw massive hotels built within the last few years and it made me wonder what was there before. 
We crossed the canal from the new Tashkent to old and back again a few times to get to Amir Timor square. We did a full circuit of the central park before being dropped off by the hotel so we could go under the road to the Amir Timor statue. It was built in 1994. Behind it Dilshod pointed out the phoenixes on top of the conference hall instead of national storks. On the front of the hall were the Zoroaster faces that we’d seen in the Registan in Samarkand. We’d seen this last week when we explored with Frank. 
Another drive around to get to the The Museum of Applied arts which used to be the Russian Ambassador’s house. Lots of the traditional clothes and wall hangings, the suzanies. 
We then headed to a supermarket but it was mostly western brands. We had 36,000 UZS left to spend and knew we had other snacks so we ended up buying an ice cream each, spiced sunflower seeds and an orange, we had 4,000 which is 36p, left and were given our first coin a 200 cym. All the money here is cym there’s nothing smaller such as pence like the UK, hence large numbers.
At 1pm we arrived at the train station, Andy said a few words and gave Pasha, our driver, the tip. Doug and Fei joined us, she was feeling much better.
A guy wanted a few people to interview for TV about our time in the country. Joan immediately volunteered Andy. They had to go out of the station complex but they didn’t have time to film more than Frank, Joan and Mark as we needed to board the train. We were filmed walking out of the waiting area onto the platform.
We were in Carriage 2, room 2 with Fei and Doug. We gave her space to lie down as we tucked our bags away and got the cushions out. There are 4 bunks, you sit on the lower 2 during the day but then fold down the top ones at night. I’d already said yesterday that I was happy to be on a top bunk so it was good to be able to let Doug sleep on the same level as Fei. Dilshod had advised us to eat before we get to the border because of the ‘sniffy dogs’. He was concerned more about hygiene than the dogs sniffing out the food so we didn’t eat all our snacks. It was slow progress to the border where we stopped. Dilshod gave us the immigration form for Kazakhstan whilst we waited. Guards came on and chatted a little with us asking where we were from before the customs officer came round. He checked Doug and Fei’s passports and took them not asking for ours so Dilshod took them to him. We’ve had to collect forms from each of the hotels we’d been to, he looked quickly at these and moved on, it can be a problem if you loose one. In room 1 were Joan, Melissa, Sabina and Hannah, as we waited we could hear them chatting to the guard asking him about getting married. Joan is really forward and funny, and asked the guy how you ask a girl to marry you in Uzbekistan. In room 3 are Jane and Tony with Verity and Mark. Rose and Ayyub are in a different carriage, as they had booked the tour late. Frank and Martin are in our carriage but are waiting to see who they are sharing with as no one got on in Tashkent, as is Dilshod.
We waited for half an hour to get out of Uzbekistan. It then seemed a long way to get actually out of the country. I’m not sure if the border was the river Keles or not but there was barbed wire either side of the train line until we crossed the bridge over it. I’d not fully downloaded the Kazakhstan map. We waited for another 30 minutes before one of the custom officers came. He sat on the bench with a large black box and a keyboard. He took a photo of each of us as he stamped the entrance form and passport. It was a full hour since arriving in Kazakhstan before we got moving properly. 
The scenery felt different from the flat land across Uzbekistan. Dry grass, short trees and undulating ground. I couldn’t remember seeing cows and horses on this trip before!
We’re now another time zone further away from home so we headed up to the restaurant car at 18:00 which was now 19:00. Andy had taken a photo of the English menu so we could work out what to eat. Again the menu was in a different order to the Russian one so we had to be careful when we ordered food. The waitress didn’t understand English and was struggling a little with us all asking for food at once. Some of the food wasn’t available and I was surprised when the salad I tried to order was brought to Sabina, it didn’t look much different to the one I finally had to order! Andy had a chicken and cheese sandwich. They didn’t have sprite so I was delighted to try the local version of lemonade, a fizzy sweet drink, I’m not quite sure what the flavour was. We had pudding too, the chocolate pudding had no description and turned out to be a bar of Kazakhstan chocolate we also got a honey cake that was quite like tiramisu. 
Dilshod sat with us. Previously he’d told us about the last group having to do this journey by bus as the trains were stopped. We went thought Aisn where the ammunition’s store exploded by accident and the town had to be evacuated, we could see the damage to roofs and Dilshod was quite shocked. He showed us footage  on his phone of the explosions. 
An artist was being filmed and the interviewer kept talking to us mostly about Tom Jones and the Beatles and wanting to sing with us. As we chatted away whilst they filmed on the next table to us they asked if they could film him sat chatting with us. 
We headed to bed before it got dark so we could set up the top bunks. Andy sorted them out and got the ladder out. Fei was feeling better but had waves of queasiness but not real nausea. I’d looked at her medications and we decided one was an antibiotic  as the only words on it in English were the names of pathogens. I recognised the antiemetic but couldn’t remember why she shouldn’t use it as she’s young enough to have children, I’ll have to look it up later. Also it would give her stomach cramps possibly. Dilshod came in and explained what things were. She knew she didn’t want Imodium but was happy with the probiotics. 
I’m enjoying being on the tour for the people and learning about the history and the culture. I’m also itching to get away from the air conditioned buses and posh hotels to learn more about how every day life is here by sharing their buses and staying in hostels where you feel the staff will tell you how to get around by local transport rather than booking an aircon taxi. Hannah mentioned the lack of poor people as we got to the train station. I suggested we were sheltered from it by the tour and reminded her of the gypsies at the station in Bukhara. Already I’m thinking we need to start planning our next trip to be independent. Frank has a book about the culture of Kazakhstan rather than what to go and see which Andy read bits from as we waited, which was interesting. 

Wednesday 3rd July
I slept better than I thought as we rocked our way over the Kazakh steppe. It was warm and I remember hearing the aircon coming back on but I’m not sure it helped much. I was up about 6:30 and found a few others were up so Andy and I joined them in the restaurant carriage. We could see the occasional person out of the window and realised they were herding sheep or goats. Sometimes they were on horseback. We could eventually see the mountains that rise behind Almaty and then we approached the city. In Uzbekistan there were level crossings but here they’ve built road bridges over the railway. 
We pulled into the station at 8:10 and were met with offers of taxis, they’d not been allowed in the station in Uzbekistan. Our new guide Ermek met us and took us through the bag check to our hotel, Kazzhol. Maxim is our driver. 
We stopped to change money then at a canteen for breakfast, and chose foods from the counter. I had a slice of omelette and cake. With yoghurt to drink. Dilshod was still helping everyone with choosing foods, our new guide was quiet. We said goodbye to Dilshod here, he heads back to Tashkent and his next tour. He is an excellent guide and was great company.
Ermek was chattier now Dilshod had finished his shift. We headed to the National History Museum and had a museum tour guide initially but I struggled staying awake even standing up. Very little was in English but a few snatches to get an idea of what they wore and how they lived when they were nomads. The Russians got them to settle so there’s no nomads left. The Russians wanted Almaty to be a garden city with plenty of trees, possibly to hide how ugly the buildings are or so Ermek told us. There are lots of apple trees here the city is named after them. It’s also an earthquake area with the backdrop of the Tien Shan mountains.
We were pleased to be outdoors again when we visited Panfilov Park. Panfilov was a WWII hero. We walked beyond his statue to the very colourful well decorated Zhenkov Cathedral (Ascension Cathedral), it’s Russian orthodox. It was originally made entirely of wood and without the use of nails and is being renovated inside, although there was a lot still to see. Ladies had to wear headscarves to go in. No stained glass windows as we’d know them but bright yellow, red and blue single colour panes. The sky was overcast and much cooler but nice in shorts and T-shirt’s. It was the historic museum during soviet times but is a working church again, it survived the 1911 earthquake. 
We walked through the green park tothe Monument of Panfilovs 28 Guardsmen which was quite oppressive, very Russian. Mixed faces of different ethnicities all holding hand grenades. Beyond it the eternal flame for the Great Patriotic War which was it the local name for their part in WWII. As we walked to the bus Frank spotted the Museum of Musical Instruments. Ermek said we didn’t have time which surprised me as I thought we were only going back to the hotel, it was 1pm, orgininally he said we’d couldn’t check in until 2. I questioned him and he said he didn’t think people would want to go in. Frank said he needed 15 minutes and we all said it was fine despite the light rain starting. Frank runs a music school. The bus was parked nearby so we could have got on but wandered around the square as we waited. 
We’re staying in a really up market hotel with pool & gym downstairs. We had welcome drinks when we arrived and nuts & dried apricots. Our room wasn’t ready when we got there so we went for a look around and found the pool which is long but very narrow just enough to swim along side someone, there’s also a circular area at one end. We were both shattered so had an hour’s nap. 
We met some of the group at 4pm to head to the gondola to go up Kok-Tobe Hill. Ermek wasn’t surprised to see so many people despite the rain as so many of us are British. 
A few of the group had been out in search of food and found a shopping centre. Frank had found an art museum. As we drove Ermek chatted. Apparently a few years ago they could import used cars cheaper from Japan that were right hand drive. Otherwise they get a lot of used cars from Europe. The roads are very busy and Ermek says it would get a lot worse at rush hour. Apparently the air quality is bad here too as the fumes collects in the valley.
There was elevator style music in the gondola, we shared it with a Kazakh lady who was on holiday here as she now lives in Houston. She was anxious to get in a gondola on her own. We were soon high above the skyscrapers with our one way tickets, 1000 KZT, £2. We’d discussed with Ermek and the lady selling tickets and they both agreed we could walk down easily. We had photos with views of the city but the clouds were closing in. We were up by the TV tower which we’d seen earlier from the city. The place was full of attractions including a ferris wheel. We had pictures with the dodgy looking Beatles statue. We missed the good views of the mountains as low clouds came in. 
Map.me gave us a strange route down which took us round and under the cablecar but they were fixing the path here so we had to go back and realised we could have just cut in front of the main restaurant area and through the car park. The path just slipped off down from the car park with no signs so without the route map on our phones we might not have found it. It was rough under foot but a few sections of wooden steps. The route wanted to take us on an very unused overgrown section which we tried and slipped on. We weren’t really prepared. As it was raining when we left I put my plastic croc sandals on so my trainers would stay dry for tomorrow.
It was a clay sloppy mud under foot and Andy slipped in his hiking sandals. The path disintegrated further so we headed back and followed a 4×4 track down. It was often easier in bare feet for me as our shoes picked up so much mud. We were soon at the bottom and able to wash our feet a bit in muddy puddles. Andy found a route following the river which was in full flow from the rain. It was well protected from flooding by built up sides. There was a good path along its side with places for borrowing bikes, children’s play areas  or outdoor gym equipment. We followed it quite a way and reached the gondola station and headed back towards the hotel exploring the city along the way.
There was a row of restaurants set a little way down and away from the pavement as we walked along the main road. We stopped at Cafe Nedelka just because it looked more relaxed than the others. It was an Italian menu and we were good and ordered pasta rather than pizza for a change. Ermek has warned us that traditional food in Kazakhstan is mostly meat but there was plenty for veggie options here. I was pleased to see hot chocolate on the menu, the tiny cup held a rich cup of delicious liquid chocolate. Andy had a cherry & chocolate smoothy. I also ordered from the list of lemonades mango and ginger, which had a sharp and really nice taste and was a soft drink not fizzy, I just hope I’m ok with the ice that was in the drink! Andy decided to have chocolate and coconut cake for pudding, of course, I helped him out a little. 
We walked back towards the hotel. It was starting to get dark but we still aimed for the very tall statue at Independence Square and the fountains behind. The streets are wide and tree lined mostly as we criss-crossed our way back to the hotel for just after 9pm. 

Thursday 4th July

Day trip to Issyk and Turgen Gorge.
It was hard work waking Andy up. I’d been awake in the night and heard someone vomiting. Andy didn’t feel he’d slept well at all. The room was warm, we didn’t use the aircon as it was noisy and ended up taking the duvets out and just using the covers. 
We weren’t bothered where we ran but I’d suggested we go south and head up hill to start with. As it was cooler I was hoping we’d do a good distance but Andy still hadn’t fully woken up yet. We were lucky with the road junctions as the lights change every 30 seconds and you can see the count down as you approach as to whether it will be green or red. After 15 minutes we turned right and right again to come down another road. I was following mapme to get us to the right turn and realised we’d got to the other end of the hotel block at the next road down. The bus hadn’t been able go along this way as they were repairing it. There were large barriers but we got through fine. 30 minutes of running. 
We’ve seen more overt poverty here than in Uzbekistan. Last night a guy with all his belongs wrapped up and another asleep on a bench. This morning mothers with babies begging for money. It’s a wealthily nation due to the natural resources such as coal but as with everywhere a big gap between rich and poor. The central area of Almaty would make you believe you were somewhere western with its Starbucks and grand buildings.
Shower and down for breakfast. I was delighted it was pizza plus a lot of other salads, cheeses and egg. We ate well and headed to reception for 8:45. It was a 2 hour drive to our first site. We stopped at a supermarket just out of town to get food but we didn’t feel we needed much for our picnic. Ermek explained the options for the next few days, we couldn’t do everything but he had to explain them all. We wondered why he was talking about things happening in the next few days as we were getting confused as to what was happening when but he needs to get things booked in advance. He recommended the eagle hunting which most of us agreed we wanted to see. We can’t do that plus see the felt making or carpet weaving. Verity makes her own felt so we volunteered her to demonstrate! Ermek was trying to explain that doing the hours boat trip the next day wouldn’t be fair on the people who don’t want to do it. We suggested that the bus could take any who didn’t want to go on the boat straight to the resort and the rest of us would find our own way by public transport.  
Along the road side near Ecik were Scythian burial mounds from around 500BC. There were quite a few dotted across both sides of the road. We had just a few minutes to walk up to the closet and take photos with the Ile-Alatau Mountain Range in the distance. They’ve been looted in the past and a lot of gold pieces were found including the Golden Warrior which they’re not sure if it was made for a young man or girl inside but it’s become the symbol of Kazakhstan. Andy picked some wild flowers for me.
From here we headed towards the hills into the Ile-Alatau Mountain Range following the Turgen Gorge. The gorge was narrow in places and very green steep sides. We had a stop for toilets at 11:10 then walked along the stony track for 1.3km to ‘Bear’ Waterfall. We didn’t see any bears though. Very pretty path with flowers and glimpses of the glacial stream. It took awhile as everyone kept stopping and Ermek didn’t want to leave anyone behind. There were several Kazakh family groups coming by, a few had babies which they carried in their arms which I thought would get heavy. Ermek was really good at helping people over streams. Maxim, our driver, was too but he went ahead to the falls and got pictures of us arriving from up high. Small falls but stunning scenery around us. Short wearers had been warned about black nettles that are 10 times stronger than green ones.
Back at the roadside Ermek had negotiated a picnic area for us to sit back across the river. It was a lovely spot under the trees but crawling with tiny ants. As we headed back to the bus a group of ladies had music playing from their vehicle and were dancing in the street. They caught a few of us to dance with them. 
It was a 1 hour 45 minute drive to Issky Lake. We drove back towards Ecik then following the river Issky up Issky gorge to the lake. Really lovely valley with the river but sadly thick drinking water pipes had been installed all the way along the roadside.
Set amidst thick forests and pastures with wild flowers, this alpine lake is located at 1,760m above sea level within the Issyk Gorge. It was a stunning glacial blue. We had 40 minutes to wander around as long as we didn’t go to the northern side. Armed guards and fences would stop us. We headed straight to the waters edge and watched a speedboat disturb the peace. Fir trees cover the steep slopes around the edge up to the rivers estuary. We headed as far as we could to the eastern edge then climbed up high to see if we could get a better view. Back towards the bus there were concrete steps up to a lookout with a golden cross. 
Back on the bus with a stop at a viewpoint to look down the valley. We were heading back by 15:50 for the 2 hour drive back to Almaty.
We were back at the hotel for 17:20. I presumed we were back so early as the coach driver would have limits on how much driving he can do in a day. Ermek has booked a table for dinner for tonight but Maxim will be picking us up despite it being only 1km away. We’re all a bit shocked as it’s a young active group. 
We relaxed and packed up a bit as it’s an early start tomorrow. Mark had written some limericks and shared them through the WhatsApp group.
“In any group its always handyTo have someone just like AndyWho at breakfast will takeNot just the cakeBut also the biscuits and candy”
We walked to the Navat restaurant with a few others. A modern Asian restaurant with 5 English language menus. Lots of pictures to help you decide what you wanted, they looked like the finished product too. Sadly they didn’t have the pumpkin dumplings as it’s out of season and there was the usual choice of salad for me. Andy and I shared the ‘Lovely Snack’ which was aubergine slices wrapped around tomatoes with a garlic sauce, really nice. My main ended up being ‘Eggplant Paste’ which was mixed vegetables on bread. The ‘fragrant spices’ were overpowered by the oil which was a shame. Ermek had said before how awkward it is going out for group meals. The waiter wrote our names down as he took our orders and Ermek helped him but it took ages, but it meant we got individual bills. The meals came out randomly with starters and mains together and drinks not always at the start. It was a really lovely atmosphere though and we enjoyed chatting as we waited. Verity and Mark also took panoramic pictures of us sat at the table. Frank was quick enough to run from the start of one picture to be at the finish of it. 
There was a traditional band playing and the waiting staff danced ‘black horse’ for us which was wonderful. Joan recorded it. 
We walked back for an early night as it was 21:30.

Friday 5th July

Almaty to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan; afternoon visit Bishkek.
We didn’t run today, it was nice to have a lie in. It was a cooler night with the aircon rattling away. A big breakfast again of pizza of course. 
We met the group at 7:45 and loaded up to head out of town at 8am. There were busy areas and road works before we were out of the city. For most of the journey we had the flat steppe leading up to rolling hills to our left, the snowy peaks that stood proudly over Almaty slowly disappeared behind them. There seemed to be lots of statues of local heros on horses randomly placed beside the road. 
We could see a few yurts, despite them not being nomads anymore, I guess they’re permanent in villages or next to farms. Ermek says when people die they traditionally need to be seen in a yurt as part of the funeral process. Traditionally they are born and therefore die in a yurt, even though people are born in hospital now. 
We only had to swerve once for a cow with horns that was wandering on the dual carriageway. The driver would have to pay for it and any damage done as there are signs warning of wandering animals but overnight they should be in sheds so the farmer would pay. Although we’ve not seen any yet, there are 2 million camels in Kazakhstan. They are milked but it’s hard to find the milk in the city, even if we had wanted to try it. We could also see lots of cemeteries although it’s not traditional to have graveyards over here and the religious leaders are trying to dissuade families because of the financial burden. 
We stopped at 9:45 for a loo stop. We bought ice cream bombs, vanilla ice cream covered in chocolate for me and in nuts for Andy. 
After another hour or so we turned and started heading south and climbing up hill. We stepped up onto a higher plateaux with wind turbines before gently dropping down towards the Kyrgyzstan border.
We arrived at the border crossing at 11:55. We had to take everything off the bus to walk across. Ermek was pleased there were no queues, he’d warned us that the locals will push by us and we needed to be firm. We only had to wait behind a few people to have our passports stamped and immigration cards taken. From here we walked over the river and into Kyrgyzstan. There were slightly longer queues on that side but they were fast moving and we were through in 20 minutes. As soon as we’d come through there were offers for taxis, quite insistent at times. I was amused by some of the vehicles going through piled high with everything but the kitchen sink wrapped up in plastic. We saw Maksim and the bus come by but we gathered at a shelter to wait for the rest of the group. Within 40 minutes we were back on the bus. 
Kyrgyzstan is a mountainous country that was completely closed to outsiders during the Soviet Union era but since 1991 has opened up to tourists. Before we arrived Ermek, who is from Kyrgyzstan, advised us to take a deep breath, a few of the group understood why after using the toilets at the border. It sounds like the public toilets in Kyrgyzstan aren’t as good as we’ve had so far. I’m surprised by the shocked reactions from a lot of the group as they are all well travelled. I just keep thinking of China and sharing drop toilets was the norm. 
Ermek gave us maps of the country with keys points from this trip plus the country such as an ancient walnut forest. Apparently Maksim will drive us 2,000 km in total from picking us up at the station on Almaty.
It was a 40 minute drive to Bishkek. He showed us the national flag with the red background and yellow sun on the centre. The sun has 40 rays to represent the 40 tribes of Kyrgyzstan and the crossed roof of a yurt inside to show a united nation under one roof. 
We stopped to change money on the outskirts of Bishkek, we had a lot of Kazak Tenge left and only US$20 but got 4,3000 KGS som which seemed a good rate it’s about £50.
We stopped at Arzu restaurant for lunch. I was delighted to spot the symbol for vegetarian food until I spotted one had tongue the other beef so it made me a little doubtful. I had Chebureks with cheese a kind of fried pancake with cheese inside and a spicy sauce, it made a good change from the salad. I wasn’t very hungry so didn’t want too much to eat. 
We walked to the White House, Parliament House which is built of marble. Nice to see the flags flying outside. The street and square nearby used to be called Lenin but is now Ala Too Square after the river that we crossed at the border. The leader in 2010 ordered police to open fire on the protestors against his regime. You can see the bullet damage in one gate next to the names of the 86 that were killed. There was a statue about pushing the bad away nearby but I didn’t fully understand what he was explaining. 
Across the road a building had a row of flags from different nations seems they had some sort of conference recently. We tried to work our what each flag was. Hannah knew them all. Nearer to us were posters with pictures of girls and their dreams for the future titled ‘Atlas of Dreams’. 
Further on there was a tall statue of Russian and Kyrgyzstan friendship. We had 15 minutes before the hourly changing of the guard so walked through the park and back to Ala Too Square. Three guards slowly goose stepped towards the guards currently on duty. Two switched places and stood next to their aircon units beneath the massive flag pole. We both had a go and decided our hamstrings are too tight to make good guards. A large Manas statue stood next to the guards, there’s a a Kyrgyz epic poem of 500,000 verses called Manas, it’s the lengthiest epic in the world.  Kyrk is 40 which is where the countries gets its name from the 40 tribes. After independence the Manas statue replaced a statue of Lenin, which is has be re-erected behind the history museum. They want to protect the history both good and bad.
Along side the history museum were Turkic memorial stones from the 7th century. Same as gold coloured ones from outside restaurant from last night. The stones have been brought together from across the country, many are found outside hotels but they’re trying to keep them for public viewing. Some seem to hold a bowl in one had and a sword in the other. We paused by the Marx and Engels statue then to Oak or Dubovy Park filled with statues made for the park. At the far end was the memorial to the red guard, a statue with cannons and unknown solders from the Civil war, 1917-1920, buried beneath. An eternal flame but not lit!
The plan was to go to the art museum but we got there just before 5 and it was due to shut. 
Finally we walked to Victory Square a memorial for WWII with the eternal flame burning beneath the arch. It was formed in the shape of part of a yurt. The new massive main mosque we’d seen as we’d arrived in town was in the distance. We were just a mile from the hotel but as it was over 30 degrees Maksim was ready to drive us there!
Nice hotel quite Alpine in style. We have a suite with small lounge area and then twin beds. A lovely Alpine scene on the wall. Andy had a swim in the small outdoor pool. 
We all met for dinner at 7:10. Hannah is joining another group to go hiking for 2 weeks so we thought we’d join the group rather than doing our own thing even though we’re going back to the same chain restaurant as yesterday. We were shown into a private room. There were only two English menus so we tried to work out from the pictures what we wanted. I like how we get given salty yoghurt drink to cleanse the palette before we eat. I had Beetroot with walnuts and vegetable oil salad and homemade dumplings filled with potatoes with green spicy sauce. Watermelon and strawberry drink. Really nice food but it all took a long time to come out. Some people had finished before others received theirs. 
Andy & I walked back to the hotel despite it being 10pm and 2 miles. We tried to take photos at the Friends cafe but the sign was too bright. Just past there we heard music playing and lights shinning into the sky. Fireworks went off as we arrived. There was a guy on stage singing to recorded music. It looked like the videos of his songs were on a big screen behind him. He was very enthusiastic and keep trying to get the small audience to sing the chorus. Diners were sitting on the area in front of the stage with barriers between us but the guards weren’t stopping people from going round so we joined them for a dance. He must be famous as they were all young people and all I could see was a sea of phones as people filmed him and they all were singing. He’d certainly aged since his videos! We started to leave as he said ‘thank you Bishkek’ in Russian after several songs but noticed a group of fire eaters ready to go on. He just kept singing so we gave up and walked back. It was interesting seeing how the streets deteriorated as we moved away from the rows of nice cafes and restaurants. It seemed a little bit dodgy at times but then we’d see ladies on their own walking. 
We found the hotel and were in bed by 11:15. Andy shared videos of us dancing with the group. The aircon worked better here which meant I was cold at times over night which makes a change!

Saturday 6th July

Issyk Kul and Djety Oguyz Gorge 
Up at 6, it was cooler than I expected as we ran down to the new mosque. Dark clouds around it made it quite dramatic. In the distance we could just see the snow topped mountains but there was low cloud hovering above them. We got a good 3.5 miles done. Andy was speeding back which was good for me to be pushing myself but I knew we were going slightly uphill and that we were running at 780m above sea level! As we passed one shop the owner was trying to get rid of guy who was sleeping on the dirt area near the shop. The rough sleeper was still there when we returned but was sat up. 
Breakfast had less choice and was mostly pancakes and bread rolls just a small amount of salad stuff. We are staying close to the railway lines but I don’t think I was woken by any trains over night but heard one rattle loudly enough this morning. 
We said goodbye to Hannah and headed off in the coach to a massive supermarket to buy picnic food. We only needed oranges and coke as we have so many other bits. Andy bought some beer for the camp too. I spotted Maksim looking at the huge bottles of vodka, Andy, being the joker, walked round saying to everyone he was sorted for tonight’s alcohol. Ermek said we had 30 minutes to shop which seemed a long time and he also recommended the toilets here. Fei couldn’t understand why the attendant kept knocking on her toilet door but it seems she went to the men’s!
On street corners there are vats of drink being sold. One is corn thats been boiled up and left to ferment over night. The other is the fermented salty yoghurt drink we’ve been given at the start of meals. I’d noticed tall chimneys yesterday which is the electricity and heating production for the city. There’s been corruption and theft recently and a trial is going on.
Kyrgyzstan owes a lot of money to China for the roads built round this area. There are bazaars built at the borders for the Kyrgyz to buy cheap Chinese goods.  We drove with the border river to Kazakhstan on our left. It looked like you could just swim across it but Emrek says there are border guards and fences in places. There were a few times when the road crossed a loop in the river and we were back in Kazakstan, one time there was barbed wire to warn us but another time no border was obvious. We passed the walls of an old ruined Silk Road Town, 25 Square km in size originally but we didn’t stop. Silk Road towns were 20 km apart along the Silk Road, which was about as far as a camel caravan could travel in a day. The snow top mountains were getting nearer but it was a shame there was light rain.
We had a toilet stop and Ermek warned us the toilets were basic. There were no doors once in the ladies room but there were partitioned walls between the holes to squat over, it was fine. You could buy corn on the cob from the roadside sellers. From here we were in a narrow gorge it’s nickname is ‘Tongue of mother in law’. A road was originally made by German prisoners after World War II. We were close to the Chu river which seemed to be tumbling over rocks, there was also a railway within the valley and electricity pylons. It felt like we were going downhill but the river was flowing up hill next to us! The railway is sadly just for freight mostly oil.
45 minutes later and we were out of the narrow gorge and at another toilet stop. There was free WiFi from the shop and we spent the time WhatsApping toilet advice signs such as 3 pictures that warned don’t urinate away from toilet as you’ll be filmed and put on YouTube! Andy looked up about local legends of the lake, similar to the Loch Ness monster. Jeff has told Frank to put on insect repellent as there’s a theory that the great plague was started here. Further a long there were yurts at the roadside for drivers to stop and rest, they were the less touristy more traditional service stations than the ones we’d stopped at. Ermek bought some salty cheese balls for the group to try, just tiny ones. Not everyone enjoyed them as much as us. 
The  mountain range is called the Tien Shan Mountains and they border with China and Kazakstan. Issyk Kul Lake is the second largest salt lake in the world, after the Lake Titicaca in South America (or the Caspian Sea according to our trip notes!)  It measures 70km by 180km and is almost 700m at its deepest point. Its name translates as Hot Lake and was given as, even in the depths of winter and despite being just above 1,600m, it never freezes. There are areas of hot springs around.
We reached the lake at 11:30 and were welcomed by an ugly electricity plant! We headed along the south shore of the lake, the less built up and touristy side. The road changed quickly to being a very bumpy road. We passed a few cyclists with panniers, it would be an amazing journey to achieve. Ermek explained the mountains north of the lake are known as the sunny mountains. Along the south side they are the shady mountains but the valley beneath is green. We went through a section of rolling hills that reminded me of western China, just 300km away. The stripes of colour in them also reminded me of the Bungle Bungles in Australia. We are so pleased to be out of the city!
A loo stop at 12:30 behind the bushes as there’s nowhere to go at the next stop. Just up from here and nicely situated within the mountains we stopped to see a demonstration from eagle hunters. Males are smaller than ladies so they can’t catch the larger prey fox and coyotes. One eagle was called Black Truth. After 2 months old they are fully grown, they live up to 60 years. They change their feathers once a year and get darker feathers up to 10 years old after which you can’t tell their age. They are released after 15 years, taken well away from where they’ve hunted and are marked with a ring so people know they’ve already worked. They did two demonstrations. One of the guys went up high with one of the eagles and he let it loose when the other guy near us started running pulling a dead animal behind him. The eagle swooped down to get it and was then rewarded with some fresh meat. The 2nd time the bird flew around having been released from up high and when called came to land on his hand for meat.  We could all then hold the eagle and have photos taken with it. He told us how to get the eagle to open his wings but it was hard to do it with the heavy bird on your outstretched arm. The guys do the demonstrations as a hobby rather than full time work. 
We had lunch sat on the rocks. The scenery was stunning with the mountains around us. We were lucky as the sun came out.  
14:20 we headed back towards the lake and drove until 5pm when we switched to a truck as we go off the main road to the yurt camp. They usually use minibuses but it’s been raining so it would be muddy. The hour long journey up the narrow Jety Oguz gorge was stunning! Initially a good road through the ever narrowing countryside but we soon turned off onto a narrower bumpier rough road. The green slopes of the hills towered above us with tall pine trees blocking views but teasing us with gaps every now and again of snow topped mountains ahead. The overflowing glacial river tumbled over the rocks next to us and we criss crossed it on precarious looking wooden bridges. Red rocks peered through and when the valley widened out at times we were treated to amazing rock formations, helped by the sun shining on them. As we climbed higher we got to pasture land and yurt camps sprang up around us. We kept climbing and entered another narrowing gorge. Mostly horses seemed to be grazing. Our camp, Djety Oguz, was situated on its own but a Dragoman group were camping next to us in their regular tents. 
We’re sharing a yurt with Rose and Ayyub. There are 4 beds in a line but a curtain down the middle to give some privacy, with 2 beds on both sides. I was very disappointed by the toilet block as they had cubicles with proper western flushable toilets! I was expecting at least the wooden frame and drop toilet we’d had when tramping in New Zealand. 
Most of us wandered up the valley a little before supper. You couldn’t notice that we’re at 2,300m but then we didn’t try running. As we approached one camp area we could see dinner hung up by its back legs from a tree branch. We headed towards the river but didn’t go far up as rain as threatening. We unpacked a bit then headed out for tea just as Frank casually rode by on a local horse. A guy had offered Rose and Ayyub a horse ride when we met them. 
The dinning yurt was amazing. A circular low table and we all sat on the mats around it. Dried fruit and nuts were on the table and Ermek served us tea. Most people had brought alcohol with them. The vegetarian soup was amazing, really tasty with lentils in. The main meal was vegetables with mashed potatoes and was quite plain but fine, the meat eaters had goulash. We sat chatting for awhile and slowly people went to bed as the rain started to fall. It was certainly cooler than we’d been used to so I added both duvets to my bed but I was soon warm. I was pleased I was warm enough with my long sleeved top and fleece for the evening. 

Sunday 7th July

Valley of Seven Bulls
We decided not to run mostly as it would be difficult to have showers and it’s good to have a lie in. Breakfast was in the dining yurt at 8:30. Besides the promised eggs and pancakes we had cheese and nuts etc. 
We packed up the bus and started walking at 9:30 from the camp area. Ermek had already warned us we couldn’t do the waterfall walk as it’s too slippy and dangerous when it’s wet. We wandered up through the valley. He warned us about a poisonous plant that we weren’t to touch. We walked through the fir trees enjoying trees around us but sadly low clouds hid the mountain tops and the sun. We walked through a few camp sites and up to an area that the Russian Cosmonauts used to come and relax in at a time when the valley was nearly in accessible. Two children rode up to us asking if we wanted to ride the horses. We didn’t. A lady wafted burning herbs over us to rid us of negativity. We wandered down to the main road crossing the river by the rough wooden bridge. The truck was waiting for us. We were driven a short section down the road then Ermek rang the bell to get the driver to stop. We walked for a short section before getting back on the truck. We stopped by the town with the seven bulls rock formation above, Mark got Ermek to stop the bus so we could get photos not realising the plan was to go up to a viewpoint. It was frustrating that the vehicle took us up to the viewpoint, it would have been so much nicer to walk, we got to walk back down though. The seven bulls, Jety Oguz, are red ridges of stone sticking out from the cliff sides and just stand out so well against the green grass. Looking in the opposite direction we could see mountains, the whole area was stunning. We’d had a short ride up front in the truck and were happy to let others have their turn as we sat in the back for the 30 minute drive to Karakol. 
We arrived in Karakol around 1:30 and headed to Ak-Suu restaurant for lunch. Maksim and the bus were waiting for us so we transferred the bags first. Karakol was established 150 years ago by the Russians. Rough roads but a few lovely buildings especially around the windows. The Russians had blue window frames with shutters. 
I had Brand salad, which was a lot of nuts and dried fruit, and peach juice to drink. I wasn’t too hungry and knew we were going out tonight for a meal but there was an amazing choice of vegetarian food. 
First stop was the stunning Dungan mosque, Chinese Muslims who fled persecution in China 140 years ago, they were Chinese in every way except religion. The mosque was very Chinese influenced in style. The Bolsheviks used it for storage but it has been in use again as a mosque since 1947. In Islam they’re not meant to reproduce animals on their mosques but there are dragons on this one. We’ve seen different mosques in this area with tin roofs and minarets whether that’s because of the harsh winters I don’t know. The Bolsheviks demolished most of the mosques in the 1940’s. 
Bus drive for a short distance to the Russian Orthodox Church. Made of the Tian Chan fir trees which only grows in this area. The structure was meant to have no nails but has got screws so I’m not sure what was so special about the lack of nails when they first built it! Pagan symbols around the edges. Inside they were preparing flowers for a festival. It was quite simply painted, we couldn’t take pictures and had to wear headscarf’s. Apparently they plan to renovate it and paint it bright colours on the outside which is a shame.  
A rumble of thunder in the distance and a few drops of rain. 
A few streets away was Victory Park, with the unlit eternal flame. Busts of some and the names of the rest around a lady figure possibly representing Victory holding a sword. We wondered if one of the busts was a lady as we’d read in Bishkek that there were ladies rewarded for their efforts in the war. Through the park was a picture of the great exodus in 1916 to China because of the Russians taking over the country. Many people died but they can’t really talk about it as they want to remain friends with Russia. 
Popular trees were planted as they soak up the water to reduce flooding. They had lots of owls in the town because of the populars when Ermek was young. 
We were at the Green Yard Hotel well before 5 and not going out to dinner until 7:20. Andy was looking at hikes for tomorrow, we both feel stir crazy with the lack of exercise. I wanted to go for a run today. We initially looked at running round the squares in town but Andy spotted a track up the hill from our bedroom window so off we headed. We’re staying at 1800m tonight and within a mile we were over 1900m. We had the mapme app showing us roughly where to go and we were soon out of town and passing people with their cars stood by dirt roads. Children called out hello to us. Through a farm a couple of dogs barked at us we avoided this on the way back. We were then in open space and kept climbing higher. The path we were on was heading to the high mountains with China beyond. I thought there was something like a trig point so we aimed for that initially thinking it would be great to get to 2000m, we were soon past that and at 2100m. Andy was running strong and I struggled to keep up with him, I couldn’t even call out to him as he disappeared ahead. The sun came out and we had great view over the grid based town as well as the glistening lake. Behind us the snow topped mountains teased us to go higher but we’d reached some trig point shaped bushes after half an hour. It was so much easier to run back down iof course, a great feeling. 
Dinner was provided tonight. We were taken to a local Uygur family. They set up a long table with lovely salads on, all vegetarian. I was given a carrot based noodle soup, laghman noodles. The others had the same but with meat added. Then they brought out potato filled samosas, they had meat. Knowing there was pudding I wrapped one of mine up and the meat eaters asked for there’s to be saved for picnic tomorrow. The pudding was honey cake. All really nice but very filling. We were disappointed as it felt like we were in a restaurant rather than eating with a family and getting to know their traditions. Ermek talked about how hard things had been in the Soviet times. He feels it’s important to be honest about how things really are and not just show us the touristy cleaned up side of things. He’s struggling with how quickly tourism is spreading here and plans to give up next year and teach English instead. 
Andy and Melissa bought another bottle of wine and sat drinking it once we were back at the hotel. I was pleased he wasn’t keen to walk back as my bowels had been playing up a bit but I think it’s so much vegetables rather than a bug. 

Monday 8th July

Cholpon Ata on the northern shore of Issyk Kul Lake, burial mounds and petroglyphs.
Breakfast by 8:25 and on the bus at 8:45. 
We started with a visit of the Przhevalsky Museum dedicated to the travels and geographical studies of Russian scientist and geographer Nicolay Przhevalsky whose expeditions explored much of Central and East Asia. He is buried at the site on the shores of the lake.
‘Przhewalsky Memorial Museum:The Memorial Museum of Nikolay Przhewalsky was one of most celebrated geographers of Central and East Asia. He was a prolific mapper and cataloger, learning about and reporting back on the flora, fauna, mountain ranges, and people of Mongolia, Turkestan, China, and Tibet. Following his death in Karakol, in 1888, the town was renamed after him, and afterwards the museum was opened in honor of his life.
During his four expeditions across Central Asia, Przhevalski collected thousands of samples of plants and animals, and mapped thousands of square kilometers. His maps were crucial to understanding exactly where mountain ranges started and ended, and what sorts of plants and animals were living in the area. Przhevalski was the first European since Marco Polo to visit Qinghai Lake in the Tibetan Plateau, though he never reached his ultimate goal of Lhasa, Tibet. The Przhevalski’s gazelle and Przhevalski’s horse are both named after him, as well as several species of plants and reptiles.
The monument to Nikolay PrzewalskyIn 1888, Przhevalski contracted typhus from the Chu River on the eve of his fifth expedition, and died not far from Karakol. His body was buried on the shoreline of Lake Issyk-Kul. The Tsar changed the name of Karakol to Przhevalsk in his honor, and in 1991 it was changed back to Karakol.’
We had a local guide tell us about his life and there was plenty to read in English. We looked at his monument and grave just beyond we could see the eastern shore of the lake plus a few industrial cranes to add to the view!
At 11:15 we stopped beside the main road to climb an 8th BC Scythian burial mound. Wonderful views of the hills behind and a few other burial mounds. The flowers smelt amazing, so many colours. The ground around was farm land. A guy rode his horse around us and back on the road a horse and trap came along. 
It was a 90 minute drive to Cholpon Ata town, the main resort on the lake. Filed with amusements and food places (like a frontier version of Scarborough) as we drove along the main street. We stopped outside the museum of history and culture but the initial goal was to shop for lunch. Andy tried the ATM’s as we need just a small amount of cash before we leave but no success. A few people have struggled with ATM’s at other places. We were trying to use our travel Caxton card as there are no charges for withdrawing cash and we’ve not used it much. Maksim had earlier shared his phone’s data so we headed back to where he was to log on to his internet and therefore Andy could check the PIN number. Still no success. 
We ended up having picnic lunches sat on the walls nearby so we could then visit the museum as they weren’t sure if we’d get a parking spot nearby if we came back later. A good museum with English on the main exhibits. It told the history of the area and artefacts they’ve found around and in the lake as the water level has risen since the days of the great Silk Road. Divers have found artifices from these ancient cities. 
Nearby, just north of town, was a large stretch of boulders, left by glaciers, with petroglyphs on them from the Scythian people 8th BC to 3rd century AD. The rocks have been vandalised over the years but there are still some rocks which clearly show the mountain goats, hunters and camels. They cover a massive area but we just explored a few which was a shame, however the first rock we saw was possibly the best. They were in a great setting with the mountains behind us but dark clouds started to appear and thunder threatened rain which luckily didn’t fall on us.
The plan was for some of the group to go for an hour on a boat while the rest where taken to the hotel. We wanted to go for a walk instead and decided to go to the hotel and walk from there. When we arrived at the jetty Ermek changed his mind saying it would be a 90 minute round trip and those not going on the boat should just wait nearby. Rose and Ayyub went to a mosque. Verity and Mark initially said they go for a walk around or sit in a cafe. I’d suggested we get dropped back off at the petroglyphs as I felt there was so much more to see and we could walk higher which they were keen on then they decided to go on the boat. Andy said about us going on public transport to where we are staying which in hindsight is a good job we didn’t as we’d got the wrong hotel marked on mapme. We eventually decided to go on the boat! It was lovely to be with the group and the sun shone so that the peaks across on the southern side of the lake were visible through the clouds. The dark thunder clouds above the north shore mountains dissolved to show us the snow kissed mountains beyond. Frank had a small bottle of vodka which was passed round. A few of the gang had bought beers. We were out for an hour which meant we couldn’t explore far into the vastness of this lake but we passed a few resorts and headed out into the lake. Of course people did their titanic impressions on the front. The surface was still and the breeze cooling, it was a lovely experience. 
It was a 15 minute coach ride to the Karven Issyk-kul resort and our hotel for the night. A few people including Andy went for a swim in the lake. I was happy just paddling and chatting to Jane and Joan. There was a peer that the guys jumped off. The sun had disappeared and it wasn’t long after they got out of the water that it started to rain. We headed back to unpack etc and went for tea at 7pm, at the resort restaurant. We had a set menu but they’d catered vegetarian for me. Salad initially, a tomato and lentil soup for me, fried vegetables and mashed potatoes for my main course and chocolate pudding which was nutty and looked like it had been sliced from a roll. Ermek told us it was called ‘potato’. 
We’d sat with Frank then he headed off to bed although had mentioned sunset was 8:30pm ish. We sat and chatted to Joan, Melissa, Martyn and Sabina before heading down to look at the sunset which we’d just missed. Frank was down at the waters edge and said we’d not missed anything spectular. Some folks headed back to bed but we joined Joan, Melissa, Verity, Mark, Jane and Tony for more drinks. There was a guy singing along karaoke style back outside the restaurant. When he started singing songs we knew we sang along and he played mostly English songs after that. We got up and danced for a while. The guy announced the last track was the Beatles ‘Back in the USSR’ which we thought was quite ironic. 
It was only 10:30 when we got to bed. 

Tuesday 9th July

Travel through the Boom Gorge, and visit the Burana tower before returning to Bishkek.
We were up just after 6:30 and ran along the main road to the first turn towards the foothills. It was a dirt road and mapme just showed it ending without a path at the end. We didn’t want to go along the main road any further than necessary despite knowing another mile there was a side road with a path at the end according to the mapme app. We were pleased that the rough road we chose just kept going and the sky was clear so the snow kissed mountains were perfect against the blue. Andy was slower than me as his calves needed warming up he kept telling me to keep pushing on rather than waiting for him to catch up. I checked the app a few times, it didn’t always show where we were and suddenly I realised we were along way from the end of the road according to the app. We were still on a dirt track and telegraph poles led me further on even though we’d gone past the end of the town. There were the occasional house or yurt around. I kept checking our elevation, we’d started at 1630m and it took 2.7 miles to get to 1825m. I kept aiming at landmarks and wanted to run for about 40 minutes knowing we’d return quicker. I stopped when the track was close to the river ravine and looked across at the mountains. The next lonely house up appeared to have a satellite dish. A lady rode down towards us on her horse as we turned and ran back down to the hotel. 
Breakfast at 9am which was brought out to us course by course rather than a spread for us to graze and keep a few bits for lunch. There was sliced cheese, meat, tomato and cucumber on the table. They brought us jam and butter but no bread. Then out came 2 fried eggs each on a separate plate. We asked for bread. Then they gave us one plate with chips and sausage on and toast with fish and melted cheese. Andy had just nipped round the empty tables as the previous group hadn’t eaten their bread buns and chocolate swiss rolls slices so got a few for us. We’d wondered why they’d left them but understood when the chips and sausage course came out – too much food. We got the swiss rolls and bread buns too but only 3 of each for a table of 4. We understood why Ermek said we had 40 minutes for breakfast! He got up a few times and served the plated food himself as the staff would bring it from the kitchen then leave it on the side behind us. They then went to bring more plates out rather than just put them straight on the tables. Ermek admitted later to not liking staying there and that they’d changed staff recently and the old system was more efficient but they won’t listen to his feedback. 
We set off by 10, we’d loaded the bus before breakfast.
I enjoyed jointly listening to our audiobook Running Up That Hill by Vassos Alexander, Andy had downloaded it prior to us leaving home. It means the time passes as we travel but we can enjoy the scenery and journey a we go. A few times I spotted fish being sold hung up at the road side. Ermek told us it comes frozen or dried from the Pacific Ocean rather than the lake as the stocks are so low!
In one village we had to slow down as mourners for 2 funerals blocked the road. At the first the body was on the road draped in a bright cloth. Men lined the road behind the body separate to the ladies who were colourfully dressed as they waited on the pavement. Only men go to the burial itself even if it’s a lady! Most of the men had traditional hats on.
We stopped at 12 to get lunch at the same stop as before. In the souvenir section they were selling sunglasses with wooden frames but for £55! I took a photo thinking it’s another plastic free option for when I next need to buy any, I was surprised when I next logged onto Facebook to see an advert for wooden sunglasses. Coincidence or Big Brother spying!
Not long afterwards we stopped for at a viewpoint over Boom Gorge. There’s only one route through the mountains back to Bishkek but we’d not stopped here on the way through earlier in the week. Boom ominously means ‘evil spirit’ and early travellers, in the 19th Century found the journey arduous and fraught with setbacks. Stunning red rocks with the glacial river below. 
Andy spotted a long wall made from storage containers, Ermek confirmed this as he talked about Russian use of the land around. Ermek from time to time would point out things such as strawberry pickers in the fields we passed as well as talking about history or modern politics during the 90 minutes of driving. 
We had 40 minutes to wander around the UNESCO World Heritage site of Burana Tower, an 11th century minaret and the first of its kind in Central Asia. Originally it was taller but earthquakes have damaged it over time. There were photos showing what it was like before it was restored in the 1970’s. Illustrations  showed what they thought the site looked like. We had to go up a flight of metal steps outside to reach the entrance as it was part way up the side. The drawing made it look like there was possibly a bridge over from the building next to it. Frank was already on his way up when I suggested we climb it before having lunch, and while there were few people on the stairs. Frank started the climb up the narrow stairs inside but some ladies were coming down and hadn’t called to warn us. Frank was in a good position to let them pass as he could squeeze into the window nook, we weren’t far up so headed back down. The spiral staircase is narrow and steep. I climbed it like ladder as my hands easily fitted onto the steps above. We had views over the site and up to the mountains. Perfect weather still. 
Next to the tower is the ruin of perhaps a palace, it’s just a mound now. At one end it looked like the walls of small rooms or it’s just how it’s collapsed. There were paths over it so we didn’t feel too bad walking on the historic site. Beyond was a field of stones. Some were carvings of the same figures, ‘balbals’ we’ve seen a few times. There were a few tall narrow stones with inscriptions on but the information panels weren’t in English. A row of tools mostly mill stones was lined up on one side and on the other side were 3 rows of petroglyphs. Only a few were clear, some were too bright and I wondered if they were fake or renewed. 
Back nearer the entrance there were some boards showing pictures of the history here and explaining some of the artefacts. There was also a small museum with gift shop next to it. We got ice creams from there. I really enjoyed this stop. It is described as Kyrgyzstan’s most famous historical site. 
Back on the bus and we headed to Bishkek passing a ruined caravanserai, Ermek already pointed it out on the way out. It was possibly too run down to visit it, we could see the outline of the walls with a slightly higher tower at one end from the road. Perhaps I should have asked if we could stop but I presume we would have done if it was worth it. Andy has pointed out this 2nd week didn’t feel like we were on the Silk Road as we’d not really discussed that part of history much. I guess because so much of the route along here is either destroyed or hidden by the lake. We did however love the contrast of being in the countryside having been overwhelmed by the sheer number of historic buildings in Uzbekistan.
Again another hour or so back to Bishkek and the same hotel. Most people wanted to go to the department store to get souvenirs. We stayed at the hotel and got sorted for tomorrow’s flight. We then walked to the restaurant. It was warmer than we’ve been used to round the lake. We walked through a long park and ended up back near the changing of the guard square but across the road with the fountains. 
Arzu was the first restaurant we went to in Bishkek so I had a rough idea of what was on the menu we shared an autumnal salad and eggplant roulettes. I had pregori with potatoes which were like ravioli. As usual the meals were randomly brought out. I’d almost finished my full meal before Jane even got her drink. Ermek was great serving food and making sure they got the meals for people when they were missed. At the end Andy did a speech and gave Ermek and Maksim their tips. He commentated on how much Maksim smiles and how honest Ermek has been. They said they been impressed with us as a group. 
As we’d nearly run out of Soms but had a £5 note Andy has exchanged it for some Som from one of the tip envelopes and didn’t realised he’d taken Kazakstan tenge rather than Soms. Suddenly we are short of money for our meal. Luckily Mark and Verity had enough to help us out. They were going to give whatever they had spare as a tip anyway. Naturally we didn’t want people to doubt our integrity and think we’d taken money from the envelopes but others had used the previous collections to exchange money.
We returned to the hotel in the bus as  we wanted to get to bed as early as possible. Joan sang a few songs via the microphone that Ermek has been using all week. We then encouraged Ermek to sing their national anthem, he needed help from Maksim. The Americans did their bit then us. 
We were in bed by 10 but it wasn’t the most restful of nights, the usual worry of waking up in time – I’d set the alarm for 3am as we have an early flight.

Wednesday 10th July

Heading home. 
Up at 3, I’d warn the clothes to the restaurant last night that I planned to wear today so my bag was almost packed. Breakfast was minimal. Andy was pleased to see others were following his lead and had cake to take to the airport. Nothing appealed to me, the cake looked dry. I had bread cheese and jam with a yogurt. 
40 minutes drive to the airport. Ermek came in with us through to check in, which we all thought was above and beyond his duties. We told him to get in touch about trekking in the uk. 
Tony and Jane are spending a few days in Istanbul and didn’t realise they needed a visa but got through check in ok. At least there’s free WiFi to get that applied for. We all went through passport control together. 
Martyn and Sabina bought coffee for us with their remaining Soms. We’d given our change to Ermek. 
Food on the flight was good again. We watched ‘I Saw the Light’ and I saw ‘Hitchcock’. I enjoyed looking out the window with the great expanse of desert then the salty edges of the Caspian Sea before The Black Sea. After the first meal the cabin crew got me to close my shutter as it was sleep time, which was a shame. 
We got a sandwich after the sleep period plus drinks. We seemed to fly over the airport a few times but it felt like we’d arrived early but we were at the terminal spot on 12:35. I felt wide awake I guess due to the 2 cups of coffee plus drink of coke. 
We found the rest of the gang and wandered through international transfers. Most wanted to go shopping. We sat with Verity and Mark for drinks and chat for awhile. We wandered through the terminal building aimlessly then spotted we were flying from gate F3B so headed in that direction. There was a nice sitting area next to a Starbucks where I got a large hot chocolate. 
We wandered down at 12:25 which is when we were due to start boarding. There was a complicated process of going to 3 desks to show our boarding card and passports at. The third one seemed to be randomly deciding if we needed to go to the search area. We both did but as there were less ladies I got seen quite quickly. Verity and Mark came through just after us and only Mark wasn’t checked. 
The flight was 30 minutes late leaving. I wanted to eat before sleeping. I watched a film ‘Five Feet Away’. Ate then attempted to sleep but didn’t really drop off. There were quite a few children and it was quite noisy. We landed late which meant we missed the train we hoped to get and the next one just. We caught the 17:17 which should get us to New Pudsey for 7pm. Andy rang to check we could collect Kipper around 8:30 tonight. 

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Hardmoors 200, 50th birthday celebrations.

24th to 26th May 2019, Hull to Helmsley

Where to begin! It was a warm start along the river from the centre of Hull westwards towards the official start of the Wolds Way. The ‘joy’ of a hard surface to start with on a day that was warming up and not the promised rain or at least an overcast sky. I had company for awhile, some happy that I knew the route but others such as Karl that it was lovely to have a bit of a chat with. I felt in a positive frame of mind, so keen to prove I could do this, so happy to be running.

I’d slept better than last time. Phlis and Jo picked us up Thursday evening in Brian, the campervan. We headed to Hull stopping for ice cream then parked up at the Village Hall. We ate at the local pub, a late but a good meal. Andy and I slept in the cabin above the drivers seats on a double bed. I was warm but comfortable.

I heard Andy move but drifted off before my 6:30 alarm. Registration was quick, Jon did a long chat and mentioned Andy’s 110 and my 50th birthday run for the 200 both of us hoping to get into the 2000 Hall of Hardmoors Fame. Team and then group photos, I grabbed Lynsey’s hand we’d both dropped out 2 years ago and were the only ladies attempting it this year.

Off down the road happy to be in my New Balance road shoes, a size 10 and wide fit. I’d been through a few pairs of shoes trying to find something that would prevent the pain from 2 years ago, road shoes had the be the answer. I wore my orthotics knowing I could remove them as my feet swelled or if they made the ground feel too hard.

Under the Humber Bridge, at the first support stop, I was pleased to get a handful of peanuts from Andy along with a full bottle of Mountain fuel. I’d not drunk much but knew I would need to. I also knew I needed the salt from the peanuts. They were easy to munch on from time to time as I kept them in my pocket.

I was confident I knew the route as we left the river side and headed through North Ferriby. A couple of runners came from our left and just said ‘don’t ask’. We were soon in the woods and I stopped for a loo break. I thought it funny the 2 followers weren’t far away as though they were waiting for me as I got back on the track. They both admitted to being pleased that I ran at their speed and asked if it was ok to have them follow me. I felt like the pied piper but was keen for it to be my race.

I enjoyed doing my hourly diary updates and checking the race splits that Andy put together. He’d allowed 4.5 miles per hour during daylight dropping to 3 miles in the dark. They didn’t allow for breaks but would get me to Filey in plenty of time. I knew where we’d slept last time and roughly how long I’ve stopped before. I knew I’d be ahead for a while as the route was so flat for quite some time before some gentle hills. Nice to feel I was banking up time but I also knew not to go too quickly and tire myself. I chatted at times but was also happy to keep my pace.

Brantingham CP2 16.5 miles, arrived 11:12am, 3 hours 7. 28 minutes ahead of plan

I walked through and chatted along the road with Andy. He swapped a bottle for me and gave me more peanuts, can’t remember what else. The other guys soon caught me up. I think it was just after that that a walker coming towards me was telling everyone that Theresa May had resigned. I was walking up a Wold and remembered I’d decided I needed a goal to help me finish so sent Andy a text to request alcohol free WeissBier at the finish, I altered the text to say it was in celebration of the resignation.

I put in a request for food at Arras Wold, pasta and tomato sauce and was happy to have a sit there but not for long. I was back to thinking about my final ice cream for my 50 flavours from 50 dairy’s on 50 different days. The crew came to the rescue as I knew there was an ice cream parlour in Market Weighton. Andy sent me a text with suggested flavour choices one of which was birthday cake. I’d had most of the other flavours so that was the perfect choice. I met Karl on the way into Market Weighton he was confused about the route being different to the Hardmoors 80 which we’d run in November. We ran into town together. I’d lost phone reception as I ran towards Market Weighton but managed to request ice cream for Karl and Michael. Andy met me with mine as the crew went back for the new request.

I put music on at some point which was nice for motivation and I explained to my followers that I might raise my hands from time to time dancing. I loved the bagpipes on the end of a Levellers track just as I was approaching Millington. We’d heard a guy playing for real in 2017 but not today. It gave me a real lift and motivation.

Millington CP4 39 miles at 16:15, 8 hours 10. 25 minutes early.

Coming into Millington was a great feeling with 40 miles done but I remember thinking that last time so tried not to get too excited that I’d completed a fifth of the course. I didn’t know what I wanted to eat so just said hello to Jo Barrett at the checkpoint and moved on grabbing a cheese and onion pasty from Phlis as I went. Andy ran down to the bottom of the hill with me. I munched on the pasty as I climbed the hill. I didn’t see many people for awhile as quite a few stayed in the checkpoint, I knew I didn’t need a rest yet as it was harder to get going.

I wasn’t looking forward to saying goodbye to Andy at Fridaythorpe but knew he needed a sleep before the Hardmoors 110. Bill joined us here loaning his car to Andy so he could head to Filey.

Details, details I’m not sure I can remember exactly when Bill ran with me. I remember meeting the support crew at Wharram Percy and Settrington Beacon and getting food.

Bills photo of me leaving Wharram Percy checkpoint after 55.5 miles

I was happy to run down to the next checkpoint at Wintringham and up that wonderful steep little hill on my own despite it being dark. Going up the nasty steep climb I thought someone was waiting for me but it was my torch catching a reflector strip. A guy caught me just before the road and I followed him through the fields avoiding the rabbit holes to the next roadside meeting at West Heslerton, at 23:22. That’s definitely when Bill joined me. He struggled getting the route on his watch but I was able to guide as I followed. It was great seeing him lead the way with his bright head torch. He opened gates and looked for route choices. I think he hoped I’d keep up with him but I had to keep to my pace. I’m not quite sure who else was with us at midnight possibly Michael but I remember saying singing happy birthday was optional but really meant mandatory. They didn’t let me down. Soon after here we reached Sherburn and my sleep spot. It took longer than I expected to get there as I’d mistaken the columns on our pace sheet and thought the 3 miles an hour meant it was 3 not the 4 miles. I rang Jo getting anxious as to where they were. They were parked up the road by the turn off which was perfect as they guided others up the side road instead of straight on but the spot was much further than I expected. Phlis and Jo sang me happy birthday plus had a cup cake and candle for me. I was delighted! It was 00:34, I was on track for the race plan. I had my 30 minutes sleep, a total break of 40 minutes, before heading out the door again as Karl came by. He’d had a good rest earlier.

50 years young today!

At some point I put the legs onto my shorts knowing it would be cooler. I had sleeves to add for warmth and never felt like I needed to carry a spare layer just the waterproof, which was mandatory. I’m sure I would have changed out of my road shoes too for a little more grip on the dewy grass. I’m not sure of that was at Sherburn or before.

Karl was with us for the next section. We let Bill go on ahead, he’d got his watch sorted now. We were going well and had already said we didn’t need support at Ganton so they could go straight to Flixton. I wasn’t keen on the sandy section along the bottom after the golf course but the loose sand was only a short section luckily. Bill was funny when he realised we were 3 miles and therefore a parkrun to the next stop. I knew the next section was a cross section of Wolds rather than the gradual climb up one so I said it was a lot of climbing and not the quick pace we’d been making. We also had another cheeky steep climb to negotiate.

Flixton Wold CP7. 78 miles, 03:19, 19 hours and 14 minutes, spot on race plan despite the sleep.

Karl joined us in the campervan for our quick break here before the final push to Filey. I always feel more positive with the dawn breaking through, as well as feeling refreshed from even the quickest of breaks. The light also allowed me to shout ahead as I spotted someone taking the obvious path rather than seeing the race route on the next section. I said I know this route so well as I dream of it but it’s more like I have nightmares of it!

Filey CP 8. 85 miles, 05:16, 21 hours and 11 minutes. 24 minutes aead of the race plan again!

We caught a few others as we came into Muston and then Filey. Brian was waiting just before the checkpoint so I went in and got what I needed before checking in. I also really fancied crunchy nut cornflakes so got my request in. Lovely to see Rod, Shirley and Paul Burgum and get hugs off everyone. There was a birthday banner and card for me. I was really pleased.

Filey beach

I felt really positive as I headed down to the seafront. I double checked with Shirley that I needed to do the first headland and couldn’t cheat by going along the beach. Karl had been in the checkpoint and I could see him along the coastal path ahead but he soon slid away. I had a sleep break planned so kept moving positively towards Cayton Bay. I sat on the bench briefly at the caravan park where I dropped out 2 years ago and reflected on how much more positive I felt. It’s amazing what the lure of a sleep break can do for you.

I’d arranged to meet the crew just after the nasty down and up of the ravine bit of Cayton Bay. I thought it would be quieter here than Scarborough checkpoint. They had rescued a guy who was dropping out and waited for his crew to come. I ate my crunchy nut cornflakes and lay down. Initially I wanted waking at 9 then 8:45 as I did the maths in my head of how far I had to go.

Scarborough CP9. 93 miles. 09:17, 25 hours 12 minutes. Down by 80 minutes.

I felt great on that next section to Scarborough and it was lovely to be sung to by the checkpoint staff and crews. I flew down the hill with lots of 110 runners around me. The sea was crashing over the sea wall in places but I didn’t get wet feet it was more about avoiding the sand again.

Phlis and Jo met me at the foot of Scarborough castle to mark my 2000th Hardmoor mile. I can’t believe how easy it felt running along the sea front. I always hate this bit. I guess it helped having the encouragement of the 110ers coming by. I had a badge saying it’s my birthday on my bag which helped plus Jon announced it as registration.

Phlis had to go round to get to the sealife centre so I was happy to have a 10 minute break there as I really needed a cup of tea. I was given an orange by one support crew, crazy how names allude me now. So many stopped to wish me happy birthday, and chat, I felt like a celebrity! I knew Andy was on his way but he’d slowed to help Lynsey get to Scarborough. He appeared just as the tea did.

We knew access would be hard after here and the crew couldn’t go to Ravenscar so we’d not see them for a long way. I grabbed a cheese and onion pasty and ensured my bottles were full. The day was meant to be overcast but already it was getting warm. I struggled with the heat and was grateful for water along the way from crew or streams to keep my head cool.

Thanks to David and Laura Bradshaw from SportSunday Event Photography for making me smile as always, sorry for not jumping!

Andy suggested a shoe swap at Hayburn Wyke to see if his Hero’s gave me more cushioning. Being a size 11 meant they didn’t cramp my toes at all as the 10s did. Great to being able to swap shoes with your husband! Someone gave me belly babies which helped my mental state on the awful ups and downs here. I really struggled the last few miles along here. Andy made sure I was eating my pasty as I know the struggle is often low blood sugar. I was running low on water too but a kind runner gave us a little to help with the final push to Ravenscar. We’d decided to have a bit of a rest here hence the photos of me lying on the floor with my feet up. I needed to be out of that heat! Dave Toth enjoyed getting another motivational photo of me. He also fed me rice pudding and tea.

107 miles Ravenscar

Ravenscar CP10. 107 miles, 13:00, 28 hours 55. 63 minutes behind plan

I took a little longer than I should have to get out of the door but it was a quick section down to Robin Hoods Bay. Helped by the cooling temperature. I was aware that a few people were close to the cut offs. Shirley added an extra 30 minutes to give them chance to make it because of how hot it had been. Bill came for a stroll along the route to find us having rested we moved well. He headed home after we were fed at the end of the car park in Robin Hoods Bay.

I’d struggled on our recce through here at the start of April. I’d just started HRT which had greatly improved by mental state and returned my get up and go but had also returned my periods. I’d not known when they would restart so I was delighted on day 2 of the recce to get a very heavy painful period. Day 3, which was the stretch we were on now, my emotions were all over and so were my bowels so I was really weak getting to Whitby. It’s not often your recce is negative but gives you a positive push on the race day but I kept thinking at least things were now improving. My 2nd period had been lighter but had also been 4 weeks earlier so I knew I’d get my next period during the race. I’ve been reading Roar and that agreed with my own experience that the 2 days leading up to a period were the worst days to be racing emotionally and from an energy reduction angle. I cheated and switched to the 2nd phase of the hormones 4 days early willing the period to come early. It did, the night before the race. I was delighted as my hormones were now at their strongest and this gave me a real positive drive whenever I was near a place I’d struggled previously. Negatively it was a logistics problem but luckily the period was really light and I probably didn’t need to use my mooncup at all! There was also no pain either!

Reading Roar hadn’t helped my motivation though, although it gave me the idea to alter my HRT she also talks about having separate nutrition to electrolytes. With my belly feeling swollen and full so I couldn’t always eat made me wonder if that was my problem. I remember reading a post from Kim Cavill that said the same. I have work to do on my nutrition but tried to push this to the back of my mind. I like knowing I’m getting calories drip fed by drinking rather than trying to eat especially as the race goes on but if this was going to fill me with fluid preventing me from eating  it wasn’t ideal.

Moving on towards Whitby I was much stronger than last time but it helped knowing the campervan was at the caravan site before the Abbey. A quick break then down the abbey steps and the joy of getting through the crowds. Some guys drinking outside the pub by the swing bridge sang a drunken happy birthday to me which made me laugh. Jo had been buying pizza for us in town and passed that onto Phlis. As we crossed the bridge she joined us and came up the steps and through the jaw bones. I decided I needed a sleep at Sandsend and this motivated me to push along the pavement section, 5 miles an hour! It also helped that it was mostly downhill. There was a little bit of rain in the air but not enough to soak us.

Sandsend CP11. 122 miles. 17:35, 33 hours 30. 81 minutes behind time.

A 30 minute sleep but I was only in the van 35 minutes including eating. I felt really motivated for having the break and happily moved along the coastal path mostly following Andy. We’d only recced this section a few weeks back so it helped me to know how far the sections were. I tried to not get too obsessed with the distances on my watch but it motivated me to know how close I’d get to the campervan each time. We seemed to be going only 4 or 5 mile sections which suited my motivation now. I was in high spirits seeing Runswick Bay even though it was a fair way round to the climb down before the run across the beach. The rocks were a bit slippy but I was still happy in my road shoes. Even the steps and steep climb up to the checkpoint didn’t knock my spirit. I said to Andy I was starting to believe I could actually do this.

127 miles, Runswick Bay 19.55 pm

Runswick Bay CP12. 127 miles. 19:48, 35 hours 43 minutes. 2 hours behind the plan!

A quick feed and we moved off again. Angela was heading back towards us not seeing where the path headed off by the pub. We chatted for a moment and I jogged on happily with it being flat.

I’m not sure really when I started to fall apart. I knew we only had a 4 miles to Cowbar Lane where we’d meet them again. I could see the mine workings the other side of Staithes adjacent to where they’d be. I remember slipping on the wet grass and knew I needed to change shoes. I was ok going through Staithes, I think, but by the time we were at the top of the hill and heading to Brian I was in a bad place mentally. I wanted to sit even though we could see the van so I did, my ‘hissy fit’! Andy motivated me on and into the campervan. In my head I wanted to give up. I ate a little but felt so sick. I wasn’t sure if the nausea was lack of food or something else. I changed shoes. I put my head on Andy’s shoulder but I knew I couldn’t afford the rest I needed. We agreed they’d meet us just up the road if I couldn’t go any further and we headed out of the van with trekking poles.

I got past that potential pick up spot and we started the climb up the hill. I was forcing myself through the nausea to be motivated, I wasn’t going to give up easily. On the recce it had felt so easy but I was slowing. Andy was motivating me, he wanted me to get to Saltburn and if possible to get to midnight to say I’d run the whole of my birthday. He was so patient, just amazing support. It was starting to get dark and the wind was picking up. On the tops I struggled with feeling I was going to get blown off the cliffs. I started to feel scared. I was fine on the flats but the downs were hard on my tiring legs. I was pleased to know Brian would be in Skinningrove, Andy had thought we’d get to Saltburn but I needed the motivation of a rest break before we got to Saltburn. I was getting slower and a few times told Andy to head on as I was worried he’d miss his midnight deadline. I really couldn’t see I’d make 11 let alone the extension of 11:30. Angela caught us up she was struggling not feeling well but ploughed on. Then out of nowhere Ady Benn caught us, he was sweeping to Saltburn. I saw this as a sign, I felt defeated physically as well as emotionally! It was only now knowing I was safe that Andy accepted my defeat and headed on. He messaged me to say he’d ask if my cutoff could also be midnight but I’d already given up. How ironic that the sections I’d struggled on during recced motivated me but I was now struggling on sections that had been so easy on the recce!

I called Jo and she said they’d do their best to get to the roadside above Skinningrove as I came off the main route onto a farm track. Just seeing the steep track down to Skinningrove and knowing there were horrendous steps at the end of the descent prevented me from trying anymore. It was only later I found out Phlis had tried to come down this track before but had worried about damaging Brian. Such an amazing support crew to risk so much. He also didn’t like the idea of going back to Skinningrove but was happy to drop Ady down there so he could continue his duties.

DNF 135.25 miles in 38 hours 49 minutes and 58.

We headed to Saltburn to support Andy. I slept easily in the back between crew points but was keen to help Andy as much as I could each time. After the pub at Slapeworth we headed to Gribdale, the dip between Roseberry Topping and Captain Cooks monument. Phlis put a blanket and pillow on the floor and slept there. I woke before my alarm and went in search of phone reception keen to not miss Andy. He didn’t come in the van just drank some soup, he didn’t stop long he was buzzing with excitement and adrenaline. He’d been trying to catch Karl Shields to support him but Karl was moving too well. Andy was enjoying moving through the field. He took what he needed knowing he could refuel at Kildale and we headed to for a longer rest at Lordstones. Phlis moved our gear around on the bunk so he could get a proper sleep.

The weather was so much cooler but Andy was too warm in his waterproof when we saw him at Lord Stones it was pouring with rain. I remember hearing at the finish people talking about how cold and wet it was but Andy didn’t notice. Next stop was Osmotherley Square corner. He had a slightly longer stop here and answered the questionnaire that Paul was doing for uni work. Bill had been in touch about coming to the finish. I said I thought he’d finish 4pm at the earliest but Andy wasn’t so sure however it was now that he started to wonder if he could get a PB. He ran well to Sutton Bank and knew he had 11 miles to go. Bill arrived and was happy to take me to Rievaulx bridge for Andys 2000th mile as Brian had already got stuck on a steep hill and pulled up by a tractor.

Andy was powering away and later discovered he’d run the overall fastest time for the final leg from the White Horse to the finish, faster even than the race winner! That last leg had also really warmed up but he powered along and did his traditional sprint finish to the doors at Helmsley finish. He then opened the doors and walked in as though he was out for a stroll! He finished in 31 hours 34 minutes. A 20 minute PB but most importantly it was a negative split as he’d taken 15 hours 43 minutes to get to Saltburn which was 50 miles and took 15 hours 51 to do the final 57 miles. He was also last to leave Saltburn and finished 31st out of 78 and 66 dropped out! That’s a lot of people he overtook!

I’m truly proud of what I achieved but knew I needed more rest time and couldn’t run quick enough to allow for that. I was so much fitter than 2017 and felt the goal was more achievable. My thanks have to go to Phlis, Jo, Echo, her dog and Brian the campervan they were amazing. Thanks to Bill for keeping me going through the night. Massive thanks to Andy my best friend and running partner, I should have listened and had that romantic pre birthday meal in Filey and run the 110 together but if I always took the easy way we may never have met. Thanks to everyone who helped me celebrate my 50th birthday the only way I know how, the support from other runners, marshalls and other crew was amazing.

Amazing team
Bill, me, Andy, Jo and Phlis.

To follow my highs and lows grab a large cup of tea and slice of cake and settle down for 37 minutes of viewing https://youtu.be/JUuEJz1NzUs

And lastly perhaps I should have listened to myself when John Kynaston asked me if I’d enter again in his support crew video from 2017. If you see me hovering around the race start in 2021 I’ll be marshalling NOT competing but who knows….

Posted in Since I met Andy | 2 Comments

Dales Way recce 19th to 22nd April – Easter

Friday 19th April.

6 hours 40. 22 miles. 847m scent. Windermere to Howgill Escape near Crock of Lunn
With Kipper, Martin, Bill and Andy we caught the 08:01 train from Pudsey to Preston and on to Oxenholme but missed the onward train to Windermere. A taxi driver offered to take us for £45 so we sat and waited for 55 minutes. It was a warm day as we walked down from Windermere to Bowness. The others found ice cream I couldn’t find a dairy I’d not had before which is a shame on my first day at the end of lent and only 2 flavours to go before I reach my 50th flavour. 

We had the route on the watch but didn’t go to the lake to find the official start instead headed up to where we believe the race will start in August. A few photos but up the hill we found a stone seat with signs on saying Dales Wales and a lady kindly took photos of us. I’ve done the route but started from Harrogate 10 or so years ago and remembered that seat and that was all of the day. 

There seemed to be more road sections than I remembered. The route on our watches was taken from the race route official route and was mostly ok. A few times we were slightly off course and nearly missed gates but soon found our way. A couple of times later there was a track with sign post but the map and our route didn’t take us that way. Usually we’d be on a road and the path cut a corner off. Hope we can remember a few bits for race. 

Martin and Bill were often in front as we stopped to look after Kipper getting him water or over stiles etc. A few times they were too busy chatting to spot the turn off. We missed turn offs too but often didn’t go too far off the main route. 

At Burneside we headed off route and into the village, as we will on race day. Road works meant we went a little bit further round but we were pleased with the pub being open. They all had alcohol, I had lemonade. We filled bottles with water and ate our pasties. Kipper was a bit surprised to keep going when we headed back out. He slowed at times then happily headed on again. He wasn’t always keen to go in streams especially when the others were ahead. We reached a stream one time and he lay it in for ages. He normally doesn’t like to. He was then full of energy for a good while afterwards. 

Not long before the end of the day we came across an honesty ice box full of drinks for £1 each. Martin put £4 in and we each welcomed the cool fizzy drinks. 
We turned off the Dales Way 18:15ish and followed our trackers to where we thought we were staying but google had let Andy down and we’d gone the wrong way. We managed to work out where we needed to be and got onto Howgills Lane. I’d been texting our host Siobhorn so let her know we’d be late and she came and collected us half a mile from hers. What a relief.

We’re in an amazing static caravan. She’d left cupcakes and tea plus dog biscuits for Kipper. We showered, stretched and relaxed. We’d ordered food which she brought over for us to warm up. Veggie lasagne for me and chicken curry for the guys. Sadly Kipper was sick after he’d had his tea perhaps sun stroke or drinking too much water. He’d been out to wee and produced a half formed half sloppy poo before that. He mostly lay on our bed but was unsettled at times wanting to be with us.
We left Andy clearing up and went to the honesty shed to get ice creams my first since lent started. Howgills Farm ginger and lime nice but not outstanding. A great day but very warm. I struggled with energy levels all day. Possibly the heat but also carrying the extra weight of food for Kipper and a sleeping bag.

Saturday 20th April 

6 hours 10. 17.99 miles. Crock of Lunn to Ribblehead

I didn’t sleep well worrying about Kipper but also he slept on top of the covers between us so I didn’t always have enough duvet to cover me.  He woke at 7 so I took him out, he was sprightly and hopped around the garden. 

At 8 Siobhan brought our breakfast and packed lunch box. Andy cooked an amazing fried breakfast. Good packed lunches of a sandwich, crisps, chocolate brownie, apple, mini cheese and onion rolls and orange juice. We just needed to work out how to get it all in our bags. Kipper didn’t eat his breakfast so Andy packed that up. 

We left at 9:13. We knew how to get back onto our route but cows and calves made it awkward crossing one field but didn’t bother Kipper too much. Martin and Bill were quickly ahead as Kipper stopped to sniff and they took a right turn instead of heading back down to our route and turn from the road. We soon picked up the route and followed the river. The guys kept getting  ahead as we stopped to keep Kipper wet in the river from time to time. He was happy to trot along with us. I was anxious though as he’d dawdled a lot initially and I was concerned in case he didn’t make the full day. Andy spoke to Phlis to see what his plans were in case he could come to our rescue. Busy today and out tomorrow during the day but he’d get Kipper later if we wanted. 

The initial cloud cover soon burnt off and it was a hot day again. It was mostly a flat day initially with a few cheeky climbs but not steep. We were close to running water for most of the way to Dent although the river flowed beneath the limestone frustrating at times but that wasn’t for long. Before the climb over to Dentdale we passed a row of houses and a guy sat on his doorstep kindly filled my bottle. 
When we hit the road just before Dent we kept going rather than following the route which only crossed a couple of fields before heading into the town. Andy had rung Bill to say we’d be in The Sun Inn. We walked past a few cafes both serving ice creams brands that I’d already had. We found a shady spot in the beer garden and Martin and Bill turned up. Bill got drinks, I stayed with lemonade. We all ate our packed lunches and Kipper ate his breakfast. 

We agreed that the other 2 should go ahead so Kipper didn’t feel stressed and want to keep catching them up. At first he didn’t want to move and then we were worried thinking he might be limping a bit but then trotted along the path off the road with ears up and tail wagging. He was really pleased to get into the river and lie down. The path was tough at times and I felt sorry for his paws but he was fine. 

River for a while then some road. Our watches and the official route wanted us to do more road but signs took us over the fields so we followed them. As usual the signs didn’t always match our direction of travel but would have been fine if we were heading westward. It was quite frustrating how many fields had sheep in all day but at least Kipper didn’t do many extra miles. 

We checked the times of trains from Dent station which is 4 miles away from Dent but further along our route. We just missed one at 16:04 and decided to hitch to Ribblehead. No one was going our way or if they were they had full cars. Andy spotted a guy gardening so asked him and he kindly took us the 20 minute drive to Ribblehead. We saw the others as they were climbing the last steep exposed road section. Andy shouted ‘come on Granddad to Bill’ and then felt bad. We paused where the path would take us down to Ribblehead 45 minutes by foot our driver said but as there were no streams we kept going. Andy decided to get a lift back with the guy and walk down with the others. So I guess it was about 16:40 when I arrived there. I asked to be dropped by the stream thinking I could cool Kipper off. It took him awhile to decide he couldn’t find Andy and lay flat on the ground looking for him. I put the harness back on him to make it easier to pull him towards the pub which he did eventually trot to. It was packed outside so we sat in. The bar was busy so I put my sheet sleeper on the floor for him to lie on. He lay there watching everyone. Finally the queue for the bar reduced so I got up to get a drink. We went outside and shared a table with 2 Irish lasses and a guy from Harrogate. Kipper was happy to sit on my knee, I turned him round so he lay across it. 
I think it was 5:45ish when the guys arrived, Andy caught up with them on the decent.

It was cooling down and we needed to get food, quite a few tables were reserved from 6. Martin knew his train was at 19:48 and was happy when the very weak internet let him buy a ticket. We had no phone reception. Martin was very pleased with his massive portion of chilli. I had a Fell Raiser plant based burger. Andy beef in Yorkshire pudding and Bill fish and chips. Nice food. 
The bar never seemed to quieten but finally the lady had time to show us the bunkbarn after Martin left us. The showers had cubicles but no where inside them to hang anything so I locked myself in there to give me privacy. Andy went in to ask about breakfast and buy one last drink. 

Bill and I had bottom bunks which joined at the toes. Luckily he was happy for Kipper to join him if he wanted to which is where Kipper started the evening. We all woke a few times over night. Bill not feeling well.


Sunday 21st April, Easter Sunday

7 hours 26. 25.82 miles. Ribblehead to Grassington Kipper was keen to go out at 6 for a long wee and big poo which he wanted to do away from the car park so took me onto the road. He then snuggled up with Bill again.

I gave Andy his slightly melted Easter eggs, he shared a few with me.
Bill felt much better when he woke. We packed up, gave the things to Andy we wouldn’t need during the day and headed round for breakfast. Cereal, I chose avocado and poached eggs and the guys smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. Andy got a sausage for Kipper. Kipper insisted on lying in the ray of sunshine that came through the window but blocked the exit to the bedroom area so people had to step over him. No one minded. 

9:15 we had a photo outside the pub and Bill and I headed up the road leaving Kipper and Andy behind. Andy took Kipper home by train then up to Sasha who as usual had come to our rescue.

It was just over a mile to Gearstones where the checkpoint would be and we took the stony track off the road and headed along it, the Cam High Way. We saw the signs where the Pennine Way joined us and neither of us were tempted with heading down to Horton where we could get the train home. It was a long warm slog up and seemed to go higher than I remembered. I thought I’d remember this section well but the trees had been felled giving a different feel. 

We passed through a few farmyards. Crisscrossed on faint paths in places and only missed one turn so had to cross a fence. Our GPS watches in general kept us right. Nethergill Farm was a wonderful oasis. We still had plenty of water but it was nice to stop for some orange squash and pay the 50p. There was an artists studio as well as information on the area. You could buy cards and prints but I didn’t think they’d make the journey. As we headed off I recognised a dog with its owners from one of the cards coming towards us. She apologised for not having the milk out yet, it was lovely to thank them in person. 

It was downhill to the road then a few gentle undulations before a steep downhill to the river Wharfe. We crossed over it and followed the gentle valley down. Lots of people were enjoying the hot day and the coolness of the river. Bill is keen to return and walk this with Freddie but also got excited about having a campervan. 
We crossed back over the river at Hubberholme and headed straight into The George Inn for orange juice and lemonade. Very refreshing. 

The route from there was straight forward towards Buckden then the path I know so well to Kettlewell that follows the river. Bill has a dip to cool off his feet. We stopped in the cafe at Kettlewell and had a massive afternoon tea. Bill could only manage to have one scone so I had to have 3! I was pleased there was a climb out of here onto the high plateau to settle my stomach. Bill trotted on ahead and got excited when he recognised part of it from the Wharfedale half. 

I’d had a few messages from Andy the latest telling us he was drinking cider with Phlis in his garden! They were just over the next stile which was a lovely surprise. We walked through Grassington and down to the river. It wasn’t long before we turned off and started heading up the hill to Phlis’s. Luckily Andy had parked his car nearby so we didn’t have to do the full climb along the road.
Phlis had got dark chocolate for me for Easter which I started straight away. Showers then tea. We were well looked after especially with the puddings. Then bed, Bill was in the campervan.


Monday 22nd April

4 hours 20. 16 miles. Grassington to Ilkley
Andy and Phlis took the car to Ilkley as Bill and I lay in then did the washing up. Phlis cooked bacon and poached eggs. They covered over the campervan and we headed off at 8:55. Phlis walked with us to Burnsall along the river. We met Jo running towards us and she walked back to hers. A lovely house that’s she’s renovated but used to belong to her grandparents. Her mum lives 2 doors up, she brought her round but was concerned about her red, warm leg so ended up on the phone to the out of hours doctors who arranged to see her later. Jo needed to pick her car up so walked with us through Burnsall but we decided we needed to get moving and left them after a few fields. 

Bill trotted ahead happily initially but then started to slow as he was getting pain by one of his knees, sounded like ITBS to me. We had been going at a good pace as this is mostly gently down hill but even at a slower pace we were near to 4 miles an hour.

 The section through Bolton Abbey was busy as they had stuff on for kids to do. Models and things to find. We stopped to use the loos before trotting on by. I was glad they’d moved the car this morning when we got to the roundabout from Addingham as there was a long queue. We missed the point to cross the road and head along the field edge so ended up staying a long the road until we found the route crossing the road back to where we were as we headed back closer to the river. Through a caravan park and the edge of town before the final stretch to Ilkley. 

We found the tennis and squash club where we finish and headed on into town. It was only later that Andy realised on race day they expect you to go past the finish and on to the official finish of the Dales Way to return that final mile to the race finish. Now that will be hard after 80 miles or so!
We had pictures by the notice board then left Bill on a bench as we nipped to Bettys for a thank you for Sasha as she loves Fat Rascals. We picked up sandwiches for lunch and returned. The car was just over the foot bridge from where Bill sat.

Really pleased with the whole recce despite having a few route questions to put to Ryk from Punk Panther. I’m keen to return and do the section from Ribblehead to the finish in the dark as a training run and recce. Shame about poor Kipper but he did really well despite being tried from the heat. 

Posted in Since I met Andy | Leave a comment

Hardmoors 200 recce week

1st April Monday. Helmsley to Levisham. 28.61 miles, 7 hours 10. (15:02 minute miles) 1,081m of ascent.

Kipper will be staying with Tim and Lisa Chia Charge for the week so we dropped his things off at their work unit as well as our main bags so we could travel light today. Tim was happy to come to Levisham to pick Kipper up later.

We drove to Helmsley eating our sandwiches even though it was only 2 hours since the porridge. We set off running at 10:30, although Kipper stopped almost straight away with a thorn in his pad. He was shaking like a shiver which he’d done before we’d left home so we were a little worried but once he saw Andy ahead he trotted on happily.

We were following the Tabular Hills route to the coast. We knew the route from Scarborough to Helmsley, from the Hardmoors 160 in 2015 but are using this week as training for the Hardmoors 110/200 in May. We’d down graded from the original plan of starting the Wolds Way thinking the logistics would be too tricky and distances a bit much. We didn’t have maps just the route on our watches knowing we could use Andy’s phone for the map.

The day was overcast and cool but not cold. Perfect running weather. We followed the steady climb out of Helmsley up the zigzags.  There was a lot more road than I remembered. This meant we could motor along but was hard on our feet. Kipper ran a long side us happily, he was off the lead for most of the day. There were only a few sections where livestock meant he was on the lead. I had him most of the time and often held the lead rather than having it round my waist. He’d pull strong when Andy was ahead so I occasionally passed the lead to him especially on the down hills. He ran off a couple of times but came back quickly. Not sure how he had the energy especially in the last mile near Levisham when he saw a squirrel.

I remembered sections of the route but not always how they fitted together but enjoyed seeing how some sections had changed. The main change was how dry the ground was as the recce had been so muddy 4 years ago. We checked out the route the night before to see what the food options would be and were pleased to go into the Forge cafe in Hutton Le Hole.  Kipper has been welcome there before and happily relaxed under a table. We drank tea and shared a Brie and apple panini. A 25 minute stop.

The previously muddy sections after this remained dry. A nice downhill section between the trees was tricky to get a good pace on as the ground was so uneven from the dried mud and rocks.

The sun came out a bit as the day progressed and we both took our sleeves off and on trying to work the temperature out. I’d not worn my windproof top for long at the start of the day.

The hardest climbs of the day were the paths up to Levisham, I knew there was one section of down but that wasn’t much. I was really slowing down but we kept the days overall pace at 4mph which we were pleased with. 

The Horseshoe Inn was at the top of the picturesque village. They were happy for us the bring Kipper to the nice snug area with sofas. Tim found us there and chatted a short while before taking Kipper away. Although he had to nip back when I realised he hadn’t taken Andy’s day bag from today.

A really nice room and good shower. Excellent food a nice nut roast for me and pork belly for Andy. We sat in the snug for a bit before heading to bed and listening to a book on sleep timer as we drifted off. We only had one charging plug so we’ll have to be more organised with charging watches and phones but it works fine.

2nd April Tuesday. Levisham to Filey. 32 miles 7.5 hours. (14:04 minute miles) 534m of ascent.

Amazing cooked breakfast after a great sleep. The owners were expecting Kipper to have stayed overnight even though we’d only asked if he was allowed in the bar, they’d swapped rooms to accommodate him which was kind. They also helped me out with the surprise of my period starting almost 4 weeks after starting HRT. I knew to expect it at some point in the cycle but wasn’t sure when!

There was light rain as we set off, the forecast said heavy rain to start the day so we had rain jackets on as we warmed up walking on the road up and out of the village. It didn’t take long once we were on the edge of the Hole of Horcum that we risked the light rain and took the jackets off. We were more concerned with being wet from sweat on the insides of the jackets making us cold later rather than getting slightly damp from the rain. My windstopper again kept me just right.

A steady climb into the mists which swirled round us sometimes with heavier rain but often with none. We were soon across the main road and heading east along a farm track then forest. We were now on the table section of the Tabular Hills and 11 miles or so of flat running. We were mostly in the trees but often had views of fields beneath or alongside us. Clouds covered us but rarely gave us rain for the rest of the day.

My watch didn’t always show me the route ‘worm’ so I wasn’t always sure where the track would take us and there were a lot of cross paths but we mostly headed straight on. Andy used his watch and once his phone GPS map. The light blue arrow signs changed to red during the day, we didn’t always get the Tabular Hills symbol sign that we’d become used to. Signs weren’t always where we needed them but our memories of the route in reverse helped.

Finally we got to the steep road section that took us off the plateau, I say finally as I kept expecting it so didn’t believe it until I could see Andy flying down it. Slight shin splint pain above my left foot kept me cautious not to go too fast downhill. I felt I was running strong today. The first 4 miles took us just under an hour, we then did 5 in the next hour but slowed to 4.5 for the next one. Perhaps I should have eaten sooner but then I enjoyed that hill plus most of the next road section when we ate our cheese and onion rolls before we headed along the last 2 miles of flat above the stream that took us to Scalby 18 miles in. We were soon at the coast and as we were making such good progress, being 30 minutes ahead of our 4 mile per hour plan, we decided to head to Scalby Mills pub where the Hardmoors 160 started 4 years ago. We arrived at 2pm 4 hours 45 and 21 miles done. I remember not liking the chips so was pleased to have a Mediterranean veg with Brie panini, Andy had soup. The place was packed and we chatted to a family who live in Hessle where the Wolds Way starts, they thought we were a little mad contemplating such long races.

The pub was busy so we had to wait for food, we drank tea but I got a lemonade too and was surprised to be told they can’t sell them in pints. Everyone else serves me them but he said he’d been told it’s the law since we went metric, pints of beer only! So perhaps others don’t know.

We enjoyed seeing Scarborough in the daylight as we usually get here in the dark on the Hardmoors 60. We decided to go through town instead of the 3 mile concrete front. We thought about going to the castle but there’s not much to see so we headed on and back to the route at the car park which usually holds the Hardmoors checkpoint beyond the Scarborough Spa complex. We only made the route 0.7 of a mile shorter and lost another 0.2 by not going down to Clayton Bay. That’s a nasty down then up with steps along the way which is easy to avoid but mandatory on Hardmoor events.  We using this as training not route finding so I needed little persuasion to take the easier route.

5 more miles to Filey, I ate and drank plenty to motivate me on this last section but really struggled with those 3 miles from the caravan park, they just seem to go on forever! I was pleased the mileage on our watches took us all the way to Filey and not just the Brigg so it didn’t feel like the final drag it could have been.

The tide was out enough to allow us to go on the beach instead of the steep 2nd headland and into town. We’d decided to go to the Spa shop for food and drinks so I stopped my watch there but Andy sprinted the last flat section before that final hill and stopped his watch then. 32 miles in 7.5 hours, really pleased.

We booked a table at the Boat Shed remembering the nice pizzas before last years Hardmoors 60.

One motivation that kept me going was Andy had asked Diana the landlady at our AirBnB if she had a bath I could use as we knew guests only had a shower as an option. I was allowed to use their private bath. Andy let it slip at Scalby Mills which helped motivate me. After a good hours soak we headed to the Boat Shed for pizza. We couldn’t decide on which garlic bread to have the tomato and Stilton or the spicy one so we shared both, they were pizza sized which was more than we expected. I had the veggie volcano and Andy the chicken tikka. Luckily they wrapped my last 2 slices in foil as a snack for tomorrow.

We chatted to Diana about breakfast she’d not got veggie sausages so her husband took a detour with the dog on the way to the pub. We talked about our plans to get to Scalby to start tomorrow’s walk. The taxi we know couldn’t take us until later. Buses would get us to Scarborough but a long delay before the one on to Scalby. Eventually Diana offered to take us initially she’d offered to Scarborough only as she doesn’t know that area. We’re being very well looked after!

3rd April Wednesday Scalby to Whitby 20 miles in 5 hours 40 moving time. (17:01 minute miles) 923 m of ascent.

Another good sleep and great breakfast with veggie sausages. We both kept a few sausages for snacks later. Diana kindly drove us to Scalby and we started running by 9 am which was the time we hoped for.

A gorgeous day, blue sky with very few clouds but a cool wind that felt cold when the sun hid behind a cloud. The colours of the day were stunning with the blue of the sparkling sea and sky against the greens and yellows of the fields and crops. The path was hard packed from the dry winter so added another contrast of dusty brown.

I had a lot of stomach ache, my bowels weren’t happy so I had to stop quite a few times before they settled down.

We know this coastline well from the Hardmoors 60 but that goes the opposite direction and we usually need head torches for the last mile or so to Scarborough, so it was nice to do this section with clear views each time we looked back on the town and castle. Lovely to see so many others out on the path. A few asked how far we were going or where we’d come from.

It was a lovely undulating path close to the top of the cliffs. A few steep downs with uneven steps which ate away at my speed just as much as the up hills. It was nice ticking off the land marks and I was surprised how quickly we got to Hayburn Wyke. This has had a diversion for awhile but new steps are in place now where there’d been a landslip so it was nice to follow the original route again.

At Ravenscar we came off the route a little early and headed to the cafe near the old station for a loo stop, can of coke for me and ice lolly for Andy who is not denying himself sweet treats during lent. This diversion ran parallel to the proper route so made no difference to our journey’s length.

From Ravenscar we knew it was mostly downhill to Robin Hoods Bay with just a couple of nasty steep down and ups. We could have run across the beach to avoid them but didn’t really want to risk getting sand in our shoes. I really felt I was slowing down and I was very aware we were behind our 4 mile per hour target.
At 12:45 we stopped at Robin Hoods Bay for cold pizza lunch on benches outside the post offices which is up the hill from the main village. Andy bought us coke and a few other goodies including a millionaire shortbread for himself! He likes to see how much I can resist chocolate etc during lent! We’d done 13 miles in 3 hours 45 so were 30 minutes behind target already. I felt disappointed but felt energised as we moved off again. I also took my poles out to help my pace plus motivating and powering me up the hills. 

I’d put my sleeves on as we rested and soon needed my gloves as often happens when using poles and your hands feel more exposed. The sun wasn’t out quite as much now but was very warm when it did come. I didn’t take layers off despite feeling too warm as it didn’t last long. Andy had looked at the distances between places in case we decided not to do the full 40 miles we’d planned today.  I thought it was about 7 miles to Whitby. It was nice to tick off the landmarks to see our progress such as the fog horn and lighthouse. I was really pleased to see the caravan park with Whitby Abbey behind.

My first thought was to get the bus from Whitby, I’d already found out about the half hourly service. My second thought was race mentality where you shouldn’t drop out when you get to a checkpoint but have something to eat and see how you feel. We ate but both agreed that we have very few options to shorten tomorrow’s route so resting today was a better idea. 

We had tomato soup and tea in The Blitz cafe. A war themed cafe which was very cosy and welcoming. It was quite ironic when the couple who came and sat next to us were German. The lady asked the guy what Blitz meant. He said the word ‘Blitzkrieg’ which was the lightening fast attack’s so I guess it made sense but I couldn’t understand all he said in German. We wondered what they made of the war time statements in the toilets. In the ladies it was all positive ‘mend and make do’ it ‘kitchen scraps feed pigs’ ‘land army’ ‘ keep calm and carry on’ etc. In the gents Andy said it was more ‘we beat them last time we’ll do it again.’ I couldn’t understand what their impression was but think she was more surprised by the amount of whipped cream on her hot chocolate.

We caught the X4 bus at 16:07 to Saltburn-by-the-Sea passing through a few places that we could have tried heading to. I’d thought we’d a least try walking to Sandsend but knew it was all pavement from Whitby so I’m glad we didn’t. We’re both pleased with 20.05 miles in 5 hours 41 minutes. We’d paused our watches with each food stop and had actually arrived in Whitby at 14:55 6 hours since our drop off. We averaged 17 minutes per mile rather than yesterday 13 minute and Mondays 15 minute so not too bad at all.

The bus journey was just over an hour and Andy spotted the train station was near our AirBnB for the night so we let the bus take us up the steep hill to the clifftop town leaving us an easy walk to our finish. Google maps didn’t spot we could nip past Sainsbury’s and was trying to take us several streets out of our way to get over the railway but we were just a street away. Luckily we did spot the shortcut.

Ruth and her spaniel, Ralph, were very friendly and welcoming. As no one had booked the sea view room she gave us that. It has a shower en suite but she was happy for me to have a bath in the shared bathroom as no one else would be needing that. Most rooms are en-suite. I left Andy in the bay window enjoying the view as I bathed for awhile. Nice to be in early enough to have daylight to enjoy the evening. We’ve already thought about a day we could return with Kipper to cover our missed miles. 

We headed to The Marine pub for tea just 2 streets away. Fish and chips for Andy, Veggie burger for me. Very filling. Back and in bed for 9 ready for an early start tomorrow. 

An article about not overdoing it. https://www.runnersworld.com/news/a27017054/muscle-fatigue-can-impact-brains-ability-to-learn-new-skills/

How Muscle Fatigue Can Actually Fry Your BrainIf you need to be sharp after your run, you might not want to push to the point of exhaustion.www.runnersworld.com

4th April Thursday. Saltburn to Osmotherley. 34.72 miles in 9 hours 49. (16:59 minute miles) 2,161m of ascent.

A really good sleep and simple breakfast of cereal and toast. Andy needed some paperwork printing for one of his houses, the landlady got a friend to do it and it was ready at breakfast time. It’s great that he’s at work whilst we’re out exploring the Moors. Our start was delayed until 8:30 as the documents needed completing then he scanned them onto his phone and emailed them off. 

We stopped at Sainsbury’s to get some cheese and bean pasties and headed through the Valley Gardens and up the hill to Skelton. The day was overcast but the forecast seemed to have improved over night meaning less rain hopefully. 

We soon were climbing down into the quarry, crossing the road and heading up to Guisborough woods. I felt so much better than yesterday more energised but knew it was early yet. The sign on entering the woods said Kildale 9 miles, we’d done 5 so I knew to keep the number 14 in my head.

Hail hit us and looked like it was settling in, we didn’t want to get cold as we were nearly at High Cliff Nab and knew it would be exposed heading over to Roseberry Topping. We had both hesitated initially and I acknowledged that stopping to put rain jackets on usually meant the rain would stop. It did within minutes so off came the jackets as we headed down from High Cliff Nab.

We met a Hardmoor runner out for a local run from Great Ayton to Guisborough and chatted a moment. Must be wonderful to live so close to these hills. We paused just before the turn to Roseberry Topping knowing we’ve been up it 3 times already this year we didn’t plan to return just yet. The pause was to play with a dog. We’d already met another and Andy can’t resist playtime

On the climb up to Captain Cooks monument we shared the rather squashed 3 cheese pasty that we’d bought in Filey on Tuesday but didn’t need to eat yesterday. It was very moist just perfect fuel. We were both still hoping the google information was out of date and the cafe would be open in Kildale but it wasn’t. However they were doing work in there and kindly filled my water bottle and commented on our Hardmoor T-shirt’s. 

It was a long slog up as usual towards Bloworth Crossing. 2 miles to the end of the tarmac luckily once you’ve done the main climb there is a downhill section. 1.5 miles to the end of that track where we turn left with 2.5 miles to Bloworth Crossing. It was quite windy as we headed up there which cooled us down but the sky and therefore views were really clear. As it’s a loop along the ridge I was surprised to see cars across from us in the car park at Clay Bank despite it being fair way off yet. I guess I’ve not thought about that before. Andy was surprised as we looped back round that we could see Roseberry Topping and Captain Cook monument. It did seem odd when we’d been going for quite some time since being there but now not looking so far from them.

We stopped to eat the cheese and bean pasties well before we headed down to Clay Bank where I’d initially suggested we ate. I was getting hungry but also didn’t want to stop and then have to slog up the hill. We were only there a few minutes as it was windy and the rock we sheltered behind didn’t help much. I really struggled on this descent as my left knee and right shin above the ankle hurt when the ground was steep and uneven, I didn’t feel I could bounce down them. I did a couple of stretches which loosened both and felt fine continuing. Andy wondered about us taking the lower path instead of over Wainstones etc, the three sisters as we call them. I was keen to do the climbs as I knew I had no issue with going up and over but slowed on the descents.

We saw a few other people at various stages along the track, nice to have a quick chat occasionally. The funniest one happened just after Wainstones when Andy asked where they were heading and they said Clay Bank. Andy said we were heading to Lordstones and the guy said it’s all flat from here. Just the kind of thing Andy usually says so he replied it’s flat that way too.

It was wonderful to get over the third climb see Lordstones cafe below. We knew it shut at 5 so it was a great feeling to get there at 16:24. We’d done 27 miles in 7 hours 45. Andy got a massive slice of lime and courgette cake with pistachio topping, last bit of the day so she have him the lot. I had a very dry currant scone just to remind me it’s lent! A massive pot of tea to help, I kept dipping the scone in it.

I felt so much better after this and powered up the next hill and down the other side to Scugdale. We were soon on the final main climb to Osmotherley. The sign said 2.5 miles but Andy reminded me that was to the top of the village as we knew we had 3 to go. The wind had really picked up on the tops which was surprising but the sun was still out in the near cloudless sky and despite it being late there were still people heading out for walks and runs. 

We knew where we were staying but the AirBnB was at the other end of the village and further than I was expecting, all I thought when we past the pubs was it would at least be downhill back home after tea. Luckily Diane was still in as they were off to the village hall to see a play at 19:15. Andy had sent a message from Lordstones to say we’d be later than their 4 to 6pm check in time. We were there at the predicted 7pm. A quick shower and we headed to the Queen Catherine hotel but they weren’t doing food, across the road at the Golden Lion we were just in time. The bar man was quite witty about allocating chairs and getting the menu, he seemed quite impressed that we’d run from Saltburn. The menu was quite posh. I wanted a healthier choice but thought it would be too filling so had Halloumi and mushroom burger with pulled BBQ jackfruit, which was lovely and Andy lamb.

We soon headed back feeling tired and ready for an early night.

5th April Friday. Osmotherley to Helmsley 19.5 miles in 4 hours 51. (14:56 minute miles) 634 m of ascent.

A warm night despite the window being open. She’d warned us about the heating system meaning turning the radiator off wouldn’t necessarily make the room cooler. 

A cockerel was on our doorstep when Andy opened the curtains. Breakfast was amazing. She called it a DIY breakfast and we expected to be boiling our own kettle and loading up the toaster but she did all that and we tucked into cereal, cold hard boiled eggs, hot cross buns and toast. We sat looking out over the fields which were full of lambs playing. A lovely sunny day. She will do a full cooked breakfast for extra or if people leave early then it’s a DIY breakfast.

I’d struggled with breakfast, feeling full quite quickly. We knew it was mostly up hill to Square Corner and the top of the escarpment beyond. I didn’t try to run the flats but marched on as we both warmed our tired legs up. 2 miles to Square Corner then another mile to the top of the hill. 3 miles done in the first hour. We trotting along from here.

Last night we worked out it should be 6 miles to High Paradise Farm. They didn’t open until 10 so we decided to set off at 8:30 and make that our first break of the day. At the main junction on the escarpment a sign said 5 miles to Osmotherley, which was correct and 6 to Sutton Bank. We’ve been enjoying paying more attention to distances between sections. I was surprised when we entered the protection of the trees just after this sign how strong the wind had been in the open as my ears stopped ringing and although it felt cold I suddenly felt a lot warmer.

High Paradise Farm was at 7.4 miles, over a third of today’s mileage done. We’d speeded up as we’d done 4 miles in that 2nd hour. I still felt full but knew the stop would do me good. I had tea and Andy coffee and a chocolate brownie. Lovely place tucked away from the road. A cyclist who’d passed us was also in there. Andy was pleased to play with the dog who seemed to be a resident. 

We reached the top of Sutton Bank in well under an hour so decided not to stop again as there were only 8 miles left. We were really enjoying the views across from the hills and down on the rolling countryside. I guess we usually run this section at night as we did last month on the Hardmoors 50 or in the opposite direction such as the Hardmoors 160 the year we did it.   

We’d already decided we didn’t need to do the out and back to the White Horse so turned in land away from the views at the junction. We know this section well but were still working out the shorter distances however Andy gave me the last 4 fruit pastels. I ended up concentrating more on dividing those up over the remaining miles that remembering how far each section was. We knew it was 8 miles from Sutton Bank and I remembered it was 3 from the bridge at the turn off to Rievaulx Abbey.

The ground under foot was just a little bit damp, a total contrast from 3 weeks ago when it was really slippy on the Hardmoors 50. The views over the farmland were wonderful with the sunshine and it felt great to going faster than the 4 miles an hour we’d hoped to do. I felt I was getting stronger as the day went on. The sugar helped plus I felt I had room inside me to drink water!

We knew the last few miles had a few steep hill sections which Andy ran up and I power matched. I best not say speed walked as Andy got upset earlier when a couple commented that we were speed walking as we went by and we were actually running at the time. 

We reached Helmsley just before 2 having run 19.5 miles in 4 hours 51. We were delighted to have maintained a speed quicker than the 4 miles per hour overall. I went straight to the public toilets to change into the evening clothes I’d been wearing all week thinking I didn’t want to put on the clean clothes in the car. Andy nipped to get the car. 

We picked Kipper up after an hour and we’re home by 16:30. A really wonderful worthwhile week. It has made me think about my lack of fitness for the Hardmoors 200 especially as Andy was strong each day and he intends to drop to the 110 race as feels he’s more likely to complete that. I will see how things go the next few weeks.


Posted in Since I met Andy | Leave a comment

154. Lulworth Cove marathon.

Lulworth Cove marathon 23rd March .  29.89 miles 4th event 2019. 1,826m of ascent 7 hours 09 mins  24 seconds. 51st out of 80. 8th lady of 24.

We were running this race as Andy’s mum lives close by. We thought a marathon the week after the Hardmoors 50 would be good training for the Hardmoors 200 in May. I’d not really thought about the coastal path and all the climbs we’d end up doing or having an extra day off mid week to meet with Jenny and Ken and run (walk) 20 miles on the Nidderdale Way.

We were both pleased with how quickly we’d recovered from the Hardmoors 50. I saw a physio on Tuesday as my left achilles was a little sore, he unlocked my ankle and blamed my stiff lower back so out came the acupuncture needles. I was in quite a bit of pain running on Wednesday but felt fine the few days after that. I also sat on the back seat of Andy’s car as we headed down south to see if I’d get less sciatica which I did. So my ankle is still a little sore and slightly swollen but not painful when run.

A 30 minute drive, satnav took us to the caravan park next door like so many others we headed back out to find the car park next door. Efficient registration, I don’t think there were many more than 50 doing the marathon. They had 3 big tents one for registration, another with goods for sale and another for us to wait in and have race brief, as usual that part was too exciting for Kipper so he had to wait outside. Minimal kit needed, we were given buffs at registration. We kept our waterproofs on as it was drizzly and overcast but the rain had stopped as we headed across the field. We didn’t have a separate dog start as Kipper was the only competitor. A few twists and turns passing through the caravan park and down to the main car park at Lulworth cove. We took our jackets off just before this, Kipper was off the lead already with no livestock in the fields. We didn’t need the checkpoint here, just 2km in and headed out of town and onto the coast path. There were a few steep ups and down, mostly good underfoot but we managed to get past others not used to a bit of soft mud. Great views along the coast that reminded us of how hilly the route would be as we knew we’d be above the chalk cliffs. One long steep climb before another steep decent.

I had the map in my hand so I could see where the routes joined as we headed east initially and would loop round to come back west and only retrace our steps in a few places. The ultra marathon headed in the same direction but at checkpoint 2, 14km they would add on an extra 3.5 miles to then loop round and join us before the 3rd checkpoint. On the ridge where we met them a lady was running with a Labrador crossed with a Cocker Spaniel, just looked like a smaller Labrador who was full of energy. They sniffed each other but didn’t really play, it was good to see that dog was off the lead as Andy checked at the start and there didn’t seem to be any rules about dogs being on leads. Just after the paths joined I ran past someone who shouted out my name. It was Tracey Barker from out checkpoint team on the Spine. Her husband Richard was supporting her and meeting her at checkpoints. She said she recognised my bottom! I couldn’t place her at first but thought it might be the Spine, luckily we had our names on our numbers. They’d come down from Yorkshire for the race as well as to see family history at Cerne Abbas. She was running well and we played leap frog for a while but then eased ahead but she was always coming into the checkpoints as we left!

The checkpoints were well stocked with drinks, peanuts and crisps but not much for dogs to eat, I gave him a few figs rolls which he was happy with, he wasn’t so keen on banana. Luckily Andy had plenty of treats, one checkpoint gave him some too. We didn’t need to carry much food as the longest we went was 6 miles between them, although I ate one chia charge crisp bar, I was pleased to see a lady early on tucking into a chia charge flapjack. We needed more water than we expected for Kipper as there weren’t many puddles and he drank a full bottle of water before we got to the first proper checkpoint for us. I was drinking plenty too but only used 2 sachets of mountain fuel all day.

Kipper ran really nicely beside us. Some times he’d be at my heal despite there being a choice of paths, I’d step aside on to one of the others and he’s catch up with Andy, just ahead, and run by him instead. There were plenty of other people out walking especially around Lulworth Cove but we rarely had to wait to pass people.

By the time we got back to Lulworth Cove the dull sky has switched to blue skies and the day was warming up, it didn’t stay for long, luckily for Kipper. We’d had one spell of drizzle when we’d reached checkpoint 3 but didn’t bother with jackets. Once it cooled off again, we were pleased with the weather all day. I was glad I’d chosen shorts and long compression socks. Nice to be in a Tshirt too, I’d taken my sleeves off on the first big climb and they stayed off.

We had a western loop to complete too and along here we saw signs for the half marathon and 10k cutoffs as they headed north to join the homeward bound track that we would join after first reaching Osminton Mills. From there it was a long gentle climb with just a short section on a quiet road, we were really pleased with how little road there had been all day. At the final checkpoint we knew we’d be on the ridge line with a few gentle undulations to head back for the last 4 miles or so to the finish. I don’t know where Andy got his strength from but he ran us back and Kipper and I just followed along. At times I made myself push harder as he was getting further ahead and I knew I could do it. Why were we feeling this good a week after the 50 and after the run on Wednesday where I felt I had no energy. The conversations we’d been having since last week about running the Hardmoors 110 instead of the 200 were brought up again as I felt so good and keen to do the longer. My left heal was a little tender when it rubbed on my shoe but no pain from running, this was perfect. I couldn’t believe how many people we over took on that last section, a few ultra runners started running with us but couldn’t keep up. My watch said 29.89 miles, Andy’s was 29.56, I’d been very aware for a while that we were going to be going further than the 28.5 miles advertised, we wondered why they took us so far out to the east instead of cutting us across to Tyneham. It seemed odd when the Ultra marathon was only 32.1 miles and £7 more to enter.

Really enjoyed the day, meeting people doing their first trail marathon and first marathon, such a tough course to choose!

238 10k, 340 half marathon, 138 Ultra marathon

Posted in 100 marathons | Leave a comment

153. Hardmoors 50(55) the double Roseberry topping. 50 years of the Cleveland Way.

Hardmoors 50 the double Roseberry topping. 16th March 2019

53 miles, 3rd event of 2019. 3163m of ascent, 14 hours 57 minutes and 37 seconds

190th of 280 finishers, 438 started, 123 retired, 35 finished but over 16 hours. 36th of 64 ladies, Andy 155th of 216 men

Guisborough to Roseberry Lane – 5 miles

I think I got off to a bad start mentally I couldn’t get out of my head one of the Mary Poppins returns songs with the guy struggling with the girls hair and the boys questions! Can’t believe in 2019 people are still so sexist. Took a while to get out of the hall as we were behind the registration desks when Jon did his race ‘brief’. Jon was coming back in as we walked out, the race had started luckily we had trackers so they would tell us our official start time. We ran onto the road and I realised how tight my legs felt. I knew I should’ve warmed up. It was lovely seeing Tim Ayres who had very kindly met us at Helmsley so we could leave our car at the finish and took us to the start. As we headed up the dirt track we knew there would be a long wait at the stile. Once over that there were two more styles but much shorter queues before we are back onto the Tees Link and heading up the very muddy track to High Cliff Nab. We both started with waterproof leggings and jackets on. I had my OMM Kamleika jacket and was worried I might get cold despite having my North Face windproof and string vest on underneath. It turned out to be the perfect combination for the day along with my spine waterproof fleece lined hat.

Wet start, not sure who took the photo
climbing to High cliff nab, photo by Steven Carter.

It was a steady journey over towards Roseberry topping with Andy leading the way. It didn’t feel right that he was in front of me even on the climb to High Cliff Nab. He usually takes longer to warm up than I do. On the final section before we saw Roseberry Topping I suggested he went on ahead as I was running full speed and it was very slow. I was worried he would get cold and he seemed full of energy, those Demons were going round my head. He stayed with me. There were gusts of wind as we went over little Roseberry Topping and it was clear how windy the day was going to be. They were very strong at times as we went over Roseberry topping itself. I loved the climb down to checkpoint 2 at Roseberry Lane and back again cheering people on who were coming up telling them how jealous I was. The lady in front of me commented on how positive I was and said that she should stay with me all day. She stayed too long at the checkpoint. I grabbed a cheeky Jaffa cake and headed back up, lent is on hold today.
1:34:20, 19 minutes slower than expected.

Thanks to Sportsunday.

Roseberry Lane to Kildale – 5 miles (10.1 in total)

We chose not to go down the slabs of Roseberry as my shoes were slipping on the slabs let alone the mud. I was amazed how many people passed us as we headed down towards Gribdale car park and on the climb up to Captain Cooks Monument. I’m usually so strong at the climbs, this was eating away at my head. I was still singing songs in my head from the film Shock Treatment following The Welcome Ultra 2 weeks ago. We’d gone through a village called Denton near Ilkley which got me started. This helped me feel more positive and we were soon on the road down to Kildale and there were the lovely SportSunday photographers taking photos in the rain which cheered me up. As we got to Kildale hall we were greeted by Rod and Holly. I had a few thoughts about dropping out here but seeing them put me back into a positive frame of mind and I forgot all about it as I went in. I had a drink of coke and grabbed a few marshmallows and peanuts. Andy made sure the men’s toilets were safe as there was a queue key for the ladies and we were out within no time at all. 2:47:03 (1:12:43 leg). We were 15 minutes behind our planned time.

Kildale to Clay Bank – 9.24 miles (19.34 total)

Then came the long slog up to Bloworth Crossing. The wind never seemed to be from one direction. Every time we thought we’d turn a corner and the wind might push us along it would slam you in the face! I kept going thinking of the 2013 event when you can barely move because of the deep snow and ice in places. The snow didn’t land for long before it froze it was then that I was very grateful for having skiing goggles. I didn’t feel I needed anything like that today despite at times the rain feeling like hail as it battered down on us. We both put the outer waterproof mitts on our hands and within no time at all we both commented on water being inside the right glove. I wasn’t sure if it was dripping from the jacket or if it was my damp sleeve because I kept looking at my watch which was underneath my jacket. With us both only suffering with one hand we presumed it was the weather driving the rain in.

I felt really strong. At one point as we passed a group who were walking I was going along at a very steady jog keeping to my 4 miles an hour. Positive thoughts soon went when the group started to run and just slid past us and off towards Bloworth Crossing. We chatted to a few people including Lydia and Martin. It was very difficult to hear what people were saying due to the strong wind.

We turned the corner at Bloworth Crossing and still the wind came at us but we kept plodding into it, up and over the top and down to the next checkpoint on the roadside at Clay Bank. I’d been drinking but possibly not enough. I filled one of my bottles half full of Coke, I’d not started on the other bottle yet.

Clay Bank to Scugdale 6 miles (overall 26 miles)

From Clay Bank we were up and over the three sisters. Sometimes overtaking people or being overtaken. Great to encourage or be encouraged. Crazy to be running near Lena Conlin and congratulating her on the Tunnel event only a week or so ago crazy to think she’s out doing this now. Very steady over the hills all the way down to Lordstones where a brave Druid drummed us through. Another climb before we were down at the roadside checkpoint at Scugdale, I took a few nibbles but kept moving.

Scugdale to Osmotherley 4 miles (overall 30 miles)

The rain was on and off on this section to Osmotherley but never heavy, I guess it’s not quite as exposed as you’re across a field then in trees before one last climb up to the mast. There was a lovely feeling on the descent down to Osmotherley and a fantastic welcome with pizza at the Village Hall, I was really looking forward to that. We’d both agreed we needed a little more time here I took off my waterproof jacket and windproof and added my Merino wool layer knowing it was going to be getting dark soon and therefore cooler. We had a kit check here and had to show our head torches, I was going to get mine out any way. I put it in a pocket ready for when I needed it. I had a few bites to eat topped up my bottles, went to the toilet and we were gone again.

Osmotherley to Sneck Yate 8 miles (overall 38 miles)

We had a good steady pace out and up to Square Corner a guy ran with us. This was his first Hardmoors and longest distance to date for him. We enjoyed the company and it meant the miles went quickly for us as Andy chatted about various other Hardmoor events with him. The day had completely changed clear skies meant good views around us and the sunset was lovely. The wind and rain held at bay for that short period of time we needed. We needed head torches as we entered the woods just before High Paradise farm. There was a checkpoint at the end of the drive from there at Sneck Yate which I hadn’t expected. Nice to get a few more bites to eat and then head over towards Sutton Bank.

Sneck Yate to White Horse – 4 miles (overall 43 miles)

It was along here that I realised I had not started the course on my watch and with it being dark and at times no clear path other than a few muddy slippy foot steps I thought it best to start the course and be able to follow the GPS route. This meant my current track stopped and I was back to 0 with the mileage, I soon realised we had about 12 miles to go. It was pretty easy finding where we needed to go and at one point I can see why we ended up going downhill on that 2013 event when the snow covered the path‘s and we just had to hope we heading in the right direction. This time we stayed high and were soon at Sutton Bank and heading out towards the White Horse. I love the sections where you have runners coming back in the other direction as it’s great to encourage and be encouraged. The section down towards the White Horse seemed to go on a long time. I was feeling great although I started to get pain in my left shin and thought back to how the backache, tight hamstrings and calf‘s from the section at Roseberry Topping had faded. It was now just general tiredness but I was feeling so much more positive and really striding out pulling us along. Lovely little checkpoint, a few bites to eat but there mostly seemed to be meat sausage rolls rather than any cheese ones. Luckily we’d had some previously, we were also carrying pasties and had half each a couple of times along the way when we really needed that extra boost. As usual I carried quite a few bars and flapjacks and ended up only eating one of them.

White Horse to Helmsley – 9 miles (overall 52.76 miles)
I had hoped we would manage to run 4 miles an hour from Osmotherley but we were slowing and slowing so I knew the 14 hours was definitely out the window as we left to do the final 9 miles. I really enjoyed the last section although some of the fields were really muddy and slippery with not many places to get a grip. Great feeling when you’re thinking about what lies ahead and remembering past races. We were soon down at the Rievaulx Abbey bridge with just 3 miles or so to the finish. We kept plodding and I was amazed at the climb up how easy it felt. So much of the rest of it was downhill we past a few people in the final two fields towards Helmsley commenting that we’d obviously not put enough effort in earlier which I quite agree with. It was great getting to Helmsley. We saw Rod who told us that sadly Holly wasn’t here. On and up the final hill to the finish under 15 hours we were so pleased the final time 14 hours 57 minutes and 40 seconds. 190th of 280 finishers, 36th of 64 ladies, Andy 155th of 216 men.

The hall was very full we managed to find places to sit. I got our bags. We were given our T-shirts and medals. I couldn’t be bothered to go to the toilets to change but managed to change sat on my seat. The marshalls were wonderful getting us food and filling our recovery drink bottles.

We didn’t stay long. We thanked Jon and Shirley for a fantastic day, the weather had been nowhere near as bad as expected but that’s because we remember 2013 when the weather really was bad. Andy drove us home, I was worried he might fall sleep. We listen to a bit of Mary Poppins and then I sang along to Shock Treatment to keep him awake. We dumped everything downstairs and went straight to bed knowing we would wash the bedding tomorrow, very happy and tired. Andy suggested that we drop down to the 110 we really aren’t trained enough to do the 200 and hopefully we’ve got enough miles behind us to get his 2000 club on that.††

Tim’s video of the start, we’re at 2 minutes 56.

Results

http://live.opentracking.co.uk/hm5519/?fbclid=IwAR1JEg2DYgsR8TrBamdxmft39xRbp-FEQMiQtQxyBsC_wI0UUUWqvAh1doE

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152. The Welcome Ultra – Punk Panther.

The Welcome Ultra 2nd March .  32.33 miles 2nd event 2019. 1,048m of ascent 7 hours 46 mins  28 seconds. 113th out of 127 overall, CLASSIC COURSE 57th of 71, 15th lady

The Welcome Ultra was our first Punk Panther the event. I’ve been wanting to do one of these races with them being so close to home so was delighted knowing the race started in Otley. Ryk said it was fine for us to take Kipper with us. We arranged with Martin Scott to meet us in Pool so we could drop the car at the finish and he took us to the start. Martin was one of the sweepers for the event.

Kit check was very thorough, we only needed basic kit as the weather for the day looked reasonably good. I still took waterproof leggings just in case I was slow and got cold. Earlier in the week it looked like it was going to rain all day, in fact we only had a couple of very light showers throughout the day.
There are two races on the day. A 32 mile loop following the Welcome Way footpath. When you got to Shipley Glen you could do an extra 8 mile loop to make it a 40 mile event. As we were running with Kipper we knew we shouldn’t do the longer run. I was pleased this was a decision as I hadn’t run since The Ark of Attrition a month ago due to a cold.

Andy was pleased to be number 96 but possibly disappointed that only I spotted he’d put his number on upside down!

There was a quick race brief outside before a lap of the park. We slowed almost immediately with a tight squeeze through the gate. As usual Kipper was excited wanting to be out in front I was pleased he was running with Andy. A few footpaths before we were out on the fields. It was great chatting to people some we knew from other races as well as new faces. 
We both hoped we could manage 4 miles an hour neither of us wanted to push it too hard. I was quite pleased with our progress down to Denton and the first checkpoint at 6.3 miles as we managed this in under 90 minutes. We were then down towards Ben Rhydding. It’s great when you recognise other routes. One road was part of the Ilkley triathlon, then I recognised another route I’ve done previously with my brother Steve as we started climbing out of Ben Rhydding and off to the west.

At times there were dark clouds around but mostly it was gorgeous blue skies and sunshine. Sometimes I felt really warm but at times the cool breeze and any shade from trees to reminded me that we were only the 2nd of March. We headed down over the railway line and into Menston for the second checkpoint at 10.8 miles. We were still ahead of our predicted time getting there after 2 hours 25 instead of 2 hours 45 and I still felt I was taking it easy. I was disappointed not to see any ice cream shops as we ran through the centre of Menston. A great checkpoint with a mix of sweet things, melon and peanuts. We filled up water bottles and headed on. We’d found quite a few streams for Kipper but sometimes he needed extra from the water we carried for him.

It was great seeing people that we’d run with earlier as we caught them, or they us, as we headed towards Shipley Glen. Again we recognised parts of Rombalds Stride and cross-country runs we’ve done as we got up to Shipley Glenn and checkpoint 3 at 18.3 not the 17.3 on the instructions. We were there by 1 o’clock so we could’ve done the extra 8 miles as you have to be there by 2 o’clock but we didn’t. Instead we carried on up and over the hills to Baildon Moor.

There were sheep in some fields and occasional horses. Most the time Kipper was able to run around off lead, he soon got used to the idea that we were going a long way as he stayed close to us and even if there were other dogs he ran past them ignoring them. He didn’t mind going back on the lead as needed. He was always grateful for the occasional treat from us.

Again we started on the Rombald Stride route in reverse. I did wonder if we’d be going past the place we got married in Esholt but The Welcome Way took us a different direction. I can’t believe how many golf courses there are in Yorkshire as we passed through yet another. We got to Esholt and checkpoint 5 at 23.6 miles, still a mile longer than the instructions told us. We were still ahead of our 4 mile an hour schedule.

We headed back towards Guiseley and I really enjoyed the section going through there. We were on paths that could have been old railway line except the road bridges above weren’t high enough for a train to go under unless they predated the roads. It really felt like a Country Park with a pond and ducks in it at one point and loads of people out walking dogs or cycling. So perfect. We headed on towards the edge of Yeadon and then were back over the fields as we headed up towards the Chevin with the airport to our right. Low-flying planes over us as they came into land. We were soon on the Chevin Chase race route and came up to the next checkpoint just outside The Royalty pub, that was the final checkpoint, I think it was just under 28 miles in under 7 hours.

It was lovely running across the top of the Chevin on a path I’ve run on before and then turning off on part of the Danefield Relay but we continued on towards Bramhope. I was a little disappointed when I realised we were going to Bramhope instead of straight down to Pool. It took a while to cross the busy main road and there were a few little minor roads we ran along before getting to Staircase Lane. We had a wonderful run down on the rocky road towards Pool. We popped out onto the main road, I’d always wondered where the path went so it’s nice to have experienced it. It was road all the way down through Pool, passing the mini roundabout about the corner and there we were at the Methodist church hall.

Really pleased with the 7 hours 46 to 32.25 miles. Kipper sat on Andys knee whilst I got us food and drinks. We were really excited to see just one hot dish five been chilly that was suitable for vegetarians, vegans and gluten-free. There was also a spread of sweet things. We received our medals, T-shirts and certificates we were delighted the Kipper got a medal too.

I was pleased the car was just across the road so we could head home. Very pleased with the day, really well-organised race. Lots of very friendly people away along the way and plenty of markers and signs beside the official Welcome Way markers. Race markers helped as at times they were missing, I didn’t use the race instructions at all but did look at the map a few times. I mostly relied on the GPS on my watch which wasn’t perfect but gave us a general sense of direction to travel in. Really looking forward to our next Punk Panther event the Dalesway in August.

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Arc of Attrititon, DNF. 1st Feb 2019.

Where to start! The drive from Bob’s house near Exeter in Devon to the registration at the Eco park on the outskirts of Porthtowan should have taken 1 hour 45. It seemed strange that however far we drove the satnav still said in red 2 hours and 2 minutes, even after an hour of driving. There was little snow over Dartmoor but enough to slow us. The weather forecast we’d seen that morning showed snow from around Exeter but then off to the east but certainly not west, interestingly the link I looked at has been taken down from the UK Southwest Storm Chasers Ltd facebook page. It was when we were on Bodmin Moor that the snow was really falling and we soon slowed to a halt. Two lanes of red brake lights became one.

Just before 6 a TV crew knocked on our window to interview us, Andy spoke confidently about us having the gear we’d need for the cold as we were heading down for the race, I said how it was exciting at first but now tedious. It was 18:47 when we got our first Whatsapp from Kim to say her sister in law saw us on the news. However on Facebook posts were coming in from 18:30, it seems we were on ITV, BBC and Sky news, different clips. Fame at last!

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMaArxZuqtfslRNBpHKNg6f5owTaBQyq8bW6H8g

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN9bxi-baeR4lLqlUjyQ0PaLcL6dgeajq1M4dNp

We knew we’d miss the 2 hours of registration from 5 until 7pm. We chatted to Paul Reeve via messenger as we were staying with him, to advise him we’d be late arriving. Registration would be opening later possibly but certainly earlier in the morning. Having facebook meant I could see what other people were doing. Some were going south via Liskeard but said the B roads were very slippy but it meant they avoided the hills ahead where the traffic was holding us up. The Jamaica Inn was offering makeshift beds for the night, we spotted the post around 22:30 and as we were at the turnoff we headed up there. It had taken us 2 hours to move 3 miles after not moving for 2.5 hours.

The road was lined with abandoned vehicles and as we started to go up the steeper slope we found 2 abandoned cars blocking the road! It was too slippy for us to drive in any direction. I talked to a tractor driver but he couldn’t get by to tow us so I walked back down the hill to help assist and advise the cars behind not to attempt coming up the hill but park. When I got back to our car I realised Andy was with the return driver and passenger of one of the cars blocking us. They hadn’t managed to push the car on their own but with the increase in numbers we got them up the slippery rise, then us and one of the other cars.

We changed our minds and decided to head back onto the A30 as it seemed to be moving. Satnav was also giving us an alternative route via Liskeard but we decided not to risk the less used roads. We were quite amused when we got back on the A30 as we ended up behind the same car that had been in front of us when we were filmed 5 hours earlier. We’d managed to get ahead when someone braved the 2nd lane and we followed on behind. A few times 4 wheel drives had tried to move ahead when we settled in for those 2.5 hours of not moving only to return as they were blocked ahead, it was good to get behind them when needed now. It was slow progress and we told Paul not to wait up.

Luckily we had a few bits of spare food but we also ate cheese and onion pasties that were meant to be race food. I didn’t drink much and soon regretted not filling the flasks with tea as I nearly did when we left Bob’s.

It was frustrating as we moved a few times just the length of a few cars and the would stop for ages. At times we could see a hill ahead and a gap would appear in the red lights meaning someone was stuck on the hill. We slowly started moving up Temple and as we got closer to Bodmin the road thinned out as cars pulled off or disappeared ahead, although I felt like we were doing the moving as Andy had the confidence to get into the second lane.

It was just before 4am, 11 hours late when we arrived at Paul’s in Portreath. We crept into his annexe. There was no snow around his house! We sorted out a few things then went to bed setting the alarm for 8am. I didn’t sleep as well as I would have liked as my feet felt cold or my mind was whizzing on what lay ahead.

Race Day

I got the kettle on and made porridge before getting dressed and packing up what we needed. We left by 8:45 and so arrived at the Eco Park in Porthtowan by 9. I’d worried about there being enough parking as most people have support crews, however, there was plenty of space. There wasn’t really a queue for kit check, plenty of staff on duty. We only had to show a few things, no the full mandatory kit. I was annoyed to find my little red light had slipped off. Luckily my head torch has a red light at the back but I’d hoped not to use that and use up those batteries. I passed kit check then went to get my race number 124, a map with cutoff times written on it and a black plastic bag to put my drop bag in for Lands End. They put big white stickers on with our race numbers written on. Trackers were added to our rucksacks in velcro bags rather than tape that I’m used to, I hoped it would stay in place, as it’s a different company to the one we used before. We found the van to leave our drop bags and table to put bags for the finish under and we waited for the race brief. It was time to go through our bags and get everything put back properly after the kit check. Andy had his name called out twice as he’d left kit somewhere, luckily he’d checked everything had his name on.

A good race brief with pictures to help illustrate what they were talking about. Information about the weather and the medics I was very impressed about the importance they gave to not taking ibuprofen. There was then a delay getting on the coaches as someone was parked in the way. We ended up on the last bus as we were charging phones etc that hadn’t been done overnight in our haste to sleep!

The race

An hours journey over to Coverack, I’d hoped to sleep but we ended up talking to people. A few people had travel stories like ours. One guy arrived at the ECO Park at 4am when his support driver yawned and dislocated his jaw so they ended up in A&E. I’m aware some people didn’t start as they were too tired but also aware of others who had very little sleep who finished the race. We had cheese and onion pasties as lunch on the bus and drinks, I was aware how little we’d eaten and drunk last night.

Blue skies and sunshine greeted us at Coverack carpark where everyone was crowded in ready to start. I was pleased to see plenty of toilets. We’d watched last years video and seen many starting in shorts but they also seemed to have their waterproof jackets on too. Looking around today people were dressed similarly. Andy had decided to run in leggings as you have to have some with you regardless and it would stop the need for a break to put them on. Instead, he’d alter the layers on his top. I put on my waterproof jacket over my string vest, long sleeved top and windbreaker and would then add gloves and hat as needed to adapt to the changing temperature.

The race organisers talked about the elite front-runners who all had high numbers. Dramatic music played and we were off, down the road as volunteers held blue smoke flares to guide us. I could have done without that in my lungs but I was pleased to be trotting along the shore. We were soon at the other side of Coverack and in the queue to get onto the single track coastal path. Every now and again the path widened for people to overtake or us to move past others. Few people chatted which really surprised us especially when we said ‘good luck’ or ‘well done’ as they slid past us.

I was sad I didn’t bring a camera as it was stunning. I usually use my iPhone for video as well but know the cold will drain the battery quickly, it was packed tightly in a waterproof case. My memories of this part of the route were a few ups and downs and then long plateaus to run along so we were hoping to run the first 25 miles in a good time. The plan Andy wrote got us averaging 4.5 miles an hour. He’d looked at the pace of previous years to help guide us. There were times that we got stuck behind runners less confident on the downs, it wasn’t always easy to get past so we had to wait our time. This didn’t worry me too much as I was keen not to go out too quickly but I also didn’t want to get too far behind our goal time. I had hoped for 5 miles an hour but soon realised there were too many undulations.

At the Lizard we got a top-up of water from the Arc Angels and a snack. There were also quite a few support crews there to assist their runners so we could have found someone else to give us the water, everyone was being friendly.

The tide was in a Kynance Cove and marshalls pointed us to the diversion along an easy road back down to the sea. The tide was high so we had to climb around a barrier to avoid going into the sea at the bottom.

We hoped to get to the checkpoint before it got dark but didn’t manage it although we lasted longer than some and their bright beams made it difficult to see. We headed over Loe bar before the last few climbs to Porthleven. We met a few people who knew us before this and had quick chats but in general found people weren’t chatty, although Andy chatted to someone as we approached Porthleven.

Checkpoint 1. Porthleven 25 miles, 6 hours 32, 3.83 mph.

We were met by the valets who guided us away from the coastal path and up to the checkpoint. I’d got a list from Andy of food choices but they checked what we wanted to eat. I was excited about the cream tea but also wanted the soup. We topped up water bottles and sat for a few minutes to sort ourselves out. We’d agreed 10 minutes maximum stay here. We helped ourselves to extra bits of food as we headed out the door, I was really enjoying the scones, jam and cream.

We made the mistake of following people at times. Mostly there’s only one track to follow and it feels straightforward. My watch turned itself off at one point, I usually have it on the screen that shows the route we are following and although it’s not exact and the watch will often say you’re off course when you know you are on it. I was quite surprised when I’d turned it back on again that we were above the main track and looking down I could see the headtorches of others. I wondered if we could just go down the side of the hill, Andy advised me not to as there were lots of brambles and soon the people that had been ahead of us returned and one of the guys said he knew there was a path down just behind us so we retraced our steps.

There were a few places to top up with water and get snacks along the way such a Praa Sands and Perranuthnoe.

Just before Marazion, we wet wrong again. I didn’t remember going on a beach with stones that size but Andy seemed confident. A few times I said we were off route and wondered if the path was high up on the cliff next to us. As we started to go round a headland I knew we were wrong so we headed back a bit and I suggested we could climb up the cliff. Andy managed to and could see people heading up a path away from the coast just a little further back. There wasn’t much to hang on to so I was surprised he’d managed to climb up as I anxiously followed. We followed the others back on track.

Checkpoint 2 Penzance 40.45 miles in 10:37, overall 3.81 mph.

We got a good running pace going along the front to Penzance with the lights drawing us ahead. Near the sailing club a gang of valets cheered us through and discussed the food options. We said we’d stay 15 minutes to give us chance to have a bigger feed. Soup again and dahl with tea. Drink bottles were filled and we were off again.

We walked along the road now through Newlyn and Mousehole, following the glowsticks that avoided the lower harbour area. It was a good pace and we were amused how often we caught people who had run by us and either got lost or weren’t as quick when they slowed to walk. We were then off the tarmac and onto the muddy track. We were both impressed with how many people we caught up with, we are both quite confident on the muddy track although it wasn’t too bad underfoot.

Just before Lamorna, the hail came down, our first precipitation. We were very aware that after Lamorna we would be scrambling over the rocks but luckily there rocks had good grips so we were fine. Even the big boulders over the beach section were fine, but I was quite anxious initially.

We were sure we could see the lights of the Minack theatre, another landmark for us but we’d forgotten a harbour before we were above the Pedn Vounder Beach. From that beach we knew it wasn’t far to the Minack. I was amazed as we’d done this section with Gill before and there were quite a few times where I had to sit down to slide down the big rocks.

I had 2 cups of coke from the Arc Angles as I was starting to feel really quite tired. I’d just eaten a chia charge bar thinking I needed fuel but decided it was lack of sleep rather than food. I’d been doing well with eating as I’d already had 3 chia bars and was filling my water with mountain fuel. From here on I was belching not stop and at times felt quite sick which was a worry. Eating and drinking a little helped for short periods.

The wind picked up as we headed round towards Lands End which never seemed to arrive. My watch had stopped a few times so I’d lost some of the distance but knew we’d done 2 miles extra when we reached Penzance. I was really pleased we’d recced the route as at least I had some idea of what lay ahead.

Checkpoint 3. Lands End. 57 miles. 16 hours 28 (04:28 am), overall 3.46 mph

Long before Lands End checkpoint the valets met us and led us up to the building but they were in convoy and kept asking us the same questions. ‘Do you need a medic or physio’ etc. I’d already said I needed a 30 minute sleep as I know how much that had helped on previous races. I had soup as I got my bag sorted. They were quick to give us our drop bags. We were near a curtain and behind was a carpeted area so I went through there to lie down but one of the checkpoint staff came and took me elsewhere to lie down. Sadly this was near the men’s toilets so noisy as people came and went as well as the other sleepers moving.

I was woken just after 5 and was told Andy was with the medics, lucky just to get his toenails cut although they applied zinc oxide tape to the sides of his toes too. I had a rubbed area by my ankle so got them to tape that. They applied adhesive spray but I soon realised as we left the checkpoint that hadn’t helped.

I had more food and it was 5:20 when we left. I think we followed the track but possibly went the long way around the cliff tops before heading off towards Sennen Cove. At times my GPS seemed slow to catch with where we were and I was anxious we’d be on the wrong path especially as we sometimes followed people ahead. Luckily we didn’t go the wrong way and remembered a few spots that were tricky from our recce like the beach routes from Sennen.

There were a few sections we might have taken a short cut but we were aware of the trackers plus running with someone else. One short cut we think the official route probably took but we didn’t risk it, the other there were signs so we were pleased we took the correct although harder route.

At Cape Cornwall there was an event crew van but we kept moving through the biting hail and wind. I had wondered if they would stop us here thinking we’d not have enough time to get to the cut off at Pendeen. Andy suggested having pasties for the energy and I took another paracetamol with caffeine. We knew we still had a few miles to go. Our head torches were off and I hoped the sunshine would wake me.

As we reached the Levant Mine area a few people started passing us as we were getting closer to that cutoff. We both wondered how anyone could expect to leave Lands End at the cut off at 06:30 and make the Pendeen 09:00 cutoff 10 miles later. To be leaving Lands End then you either slept a while or you were going really slow so how could you expect to speed up on those rough ups and downs. I started thinking how would I make the cut off at St Ives if we were going this slow now and I was pushing myself as hard as I could. Andy had picked up the pace too hoping to get to Pendeen. I told him I would drop out there as I knew I wouldn’t make the rest of the race, I was shattered physically as well as mentally! I wanted to tell Andy then so he could ensure he didn’t miss the cutoff but he said he’d stay with me. I got him to check if there was an easier way to the checkpoint but there wasn’t. We kept going and surprisingly made it with 90 seconds to spare even though we’d stopped trying. We ran past the car with the race crew in not realising they would then stop people as they only nodded to us as we passed them, they didn’t look official enough.

Pendeen lighthouse cutoff, 68 miles, 20 hours 58 minutes,12,021 ft (3,664 m)

We chatted to Peter Gold who had run past us at a confident pace not long before. His wife was late getting to the meeting point and he was getting cold. We told the race crew our numbers as we then asked about for lifts. We sat in one car knowing they would take us to St Ives. Andy went to ask Debbie, Peter’s wife about her plans. She gave us a lift to the Eco Park. I fell asleep almost straight away as a very lively Andy chatted all the way back. I’d sent a message to people to let them know and it seems the trackers hadn’t been working well so it had been hard for people to follow us.

We handed in our trackers, grabbed our bags and headed back to Pauls. I ran a bath and Andy made the pizza we’d missed on Thursday evening. We then headed back to Bob’s as Andy’s sister Cathie and family were there.

Such a shame we didn’t have that nights sleep as I’m sure that would have made a difference but I also think the lovely lazy days recceing the route lulled us into a false sense of how tricky the path is. I feel I had the right gear although I got rid of my spare waterproof jacket at Lands End as I felt I’d be fine even though we were heading into the wind. I’m not sure if I would have regretted that come the next night as we slowed further. Perhaps I should have put fresh waterproof socks on at Lands End as they were damp inside but other that the rubbed area I have no blisters. Such a lovely course I’m keen to return.

A blog I enjoyed reading which might be useful next year! https://majzel.blogspot.com/2019/02/extended-report-arc-of-attrition-2019.html

Posted in Since I met Andy | Leave a comment

Spine race marshalling 11th to 18th January 2019

Memories from the week

Jo Barrett at Middleton All The Pennine Ladies

https://www.facebook.com/groups/OfficialSpineGroup/permalink/2359191780979276/

Alston

Checkpoint staff boggy

https://www.facebook.com/groups/OfficialSpineGroup/permalink/2359030104328777/

Lung challenge

https://www.facebook.com/groups/OfficialSpineGroup/permalink/2359180504313737/

Posted in Since I met Andy | Leave a comment

151. Hardmoors 30

Hardmoors 30

1st January. 

30.78 miles 1st event 2019. m of ascent

6 hours 32 mins  27 seconds. 101/184. 28th lady/63

It had been mild and dry in the build up to New Years Day so we were delighted when Shirley announced the coastal path was dry. I did wonder if it was a tease but it wasn’t. We gave LBT Paul a lift to the start, he’s a lovely chatty guy. We arrived at 8:30 one hour before the Race began. Kipper wasn’t allowed in the hall but we managed between us to get registered and sorted mostly because Andy was cheeky and Jon let us into the marshals only checkpoint behind the hall. 


It was a sunny day as we set off and ran along the cinder track. Kipper did his usual and ran off as though it was a park run. I was surprised how quickly I realised that Paul was running alongside us. He had done the Hardmoors 15 last year in three hours but was fitter then he said. He had a few walk breaks and this always seem to tie in with the Kipper stopping to wee or to have a drink so I wasn’t sure if Paul was waiting for us or needed those rests. We got to Whitby in an hour, a quick first 6 miles. We lost Paul just before there. We both just grabbed a bite to eat and kept moving. 
The swing bridge in Whitby was just closing as we arrived which meant we’d caught a lot of runners. There was a dash across the bridge and up the steps but most people streamed past us as we stopped for Kipper or we were just slower once we got onto the coastal path. Andy has done his usual run up the steps!


It was a lovely sunny dry run along the coastal path with good views ahead. We chatted to a few people we knew but mostly ran smoothly along and were pleased to maintain 5 miles an hour as we got back to Robin Hoods Bay. The path under foot was indeed dry which meant no slipping back down on the climbs. 


A quick food stop at the Robin Hood checkpoint and we were back on the cinder track. Kipper was a bit confused as he thought we’d finished as he knew we were near the car. I was worried about him as he’d been off lead and at times he’d been running fast and a little off route chasing other dogs and smells. The day before the race he’d been poorly, not wanting to go out, he ate his food fine but was quite shaky. We’d taken him to a vet who wondered if he had some pain as he seemed to look round at her each time she pressed a particular spot on his back. She gave him pain killers and he made an amazing recovery after tea. We’d got Bill lined up to look in on him but when Kipper was fine in the morning we brought him with us. I was also worried as he wandered into people paths at times but not often and most people were very complimentary about him. Andy put him on the lead to encourage him at times. It seemed he didn’t like the cinder track as he was so much better once on the coastal path again. 


We had a lovely surprise at Ravenscar as Neil Wallace and Rose George were part of the checkpoint crew. He said it was a surprise to him too to be there. They didn’t say if they have plans to do a particular race or not. 
At Hayburn Wyke we had to take the new route which was tricky down some steps and along the stream before a road section. I’m sure that made it longer as well and hillier. Up to this point I’d been pleased with our pace but now worried what time we’d finish. 


The only time I really struggled all day was a mile or so before our return to Ravenscar. I told Andy I was struggling and had lower back pain. As soon as I said it out loud I knew I needed to take paracetamol with caffeine. He’d been feeding me fruit pastels and I was eating and drinking ok. The day was also turning and it was colder and quite windy on the exposed cliff tops so I put my sleeves back on. I chose to run in leggings and a T-shirt as I’ve been too warm in long sleeved tops recently, it was the perfect combination until then. A few mouthfuls of coke at Ravenscar and on the downhill section afterwards I felt like I was flying. Such a fast section down hill and the level before the couple of dips to sea level and back up. Just before there Rod was marshalling where the path comes onto the road for a short time, good to see him. Poor guy always gets remote spots on his own! I ran the road section here even the uphill bit, I was buzzing. The only bit I slowed for was the hill up through Robin Hoods Bay but even then I pushed it up. Andy was alongside me. A great feeling the 3 of us together. 


Not my quickest time but 6 hours 32, 10 minutes quicker than last year. I was so pleased as I’ve been struggling recently especially as I was full of cold and unable to run for 2 weeks after the Hardwolds 80. Kipper was amazing to keep going all that way. It was wonderful how he stayed between us or would often look behind to make sure we were keeping up if he was running ahead with one or another of us. We got him settled in the car and changed then left him hoping he’d sleep as we went in for food. 
We walked down the road looking for Paul. I then left Andy and went back to sit with Kipper who was a little unsettled with people coming and going to the cars around us but soon settled. I’d asked and knew Paul was still going but we didn’t know how far back he was. Andy went all the way down into Robin Hoods Bay and texted to say Paul was on his way with a sweeper. 

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Belgrade December 2018

Friday, the 14th of December

Up at five out of the house by quarter past and had a straight forward hour’s drive to Manchester airport. We were booked into the Meet & Greet parking, luckily Andy found the confirmation email in our junk mail box. We were through the airport security quickly except I needed a body search and bag check. We found a place to have some breakfast before boarding the flight. We were on the plane in time but left about 40 minutes late. They promised us they would fly quicker to make up the time. We were given croissants and drinks and then some Swiss chocolate came round. Andy pretended he didn’t want any and seeing my reaction the lady gave us extra. Very nice.

The cabin crew announced the gates for most onward flights but told passengers for the Belgrade flight to ask ground staff. We landed just 10 minutes later than originally expected but now only had 30mins before our next flight was due to depart. It seemed to take ages to get off the plane and there was only the bus driver to ask. He said hopefully our flight was delayed but didn’t offer find out more. Unfortunately we got on the second bus this took a while to leave and then get to the terminal building. There was no one to ask. We made our way in and found the departure board but no sign of our flight. We asked at a gate and had just missed it. We were told to go to transfer gate A which was a long way away. Luckily it seemed quite a normal thing for them as they booked us onto the next flight in three hours time at 3:05 without any issue. There was free Internet in the airport so we could let Mike and Ivana know we would be late. We walked around, I was eyeing up the chocolate places but we settled in Marche restaurant. I had a Cacao Rio huimbi hot chocolate which was really thick when I stirred it and very yummy.  I also had ice cream number 37 Movenpick Maple and Walnut, again really nice. Andy went for the healthy option of spicy soup.

It seemed a long way back to Terminal D to find our gate, not helped by the signs for A and E being one way and we thought it meant A to E. Back through passport control but no bag check, along a lot of corridors and up stairs. Our seats were on row 5 and we hoped we were slotted into spare business class seats but we weren’t. A slightly bigger but older plane operated by Air Serbia. The cabin crew spoke very fast whether its English or Serbian when they do their announcements so it was hard to know what they were saying or to whom. I slept a short while, waking to see the Alps below and we were given little fish shaped snack biscuits and water. Luckily we still had the extra Swiss chocolate and the final mince pie, I’d eaten my 2nd of the day just before we boarded.

Quickly off the plane with us being near the front. Andy’s bag had been moved by the cabin crew but we’d spotted it.  No queue for passport check and we were out within 15 minutes at 5pm. There was fresh snow on the ground. We had to wait as we were quicker than Mike and Ivana expected.

They picked us up from the Departures floor so we headed up stairs and found them, great use of free internet! It was a very snowy drive back and satnav took us the long way back we presume there must have been an accident through town. They are living on the first floor flat of her brothers house, he’s really a cousin but they call cousins brothers too. A large lounge with open plan to the dinning area and kitchen. A balcony at one side. They have two cats Erika and Melena, they’d found them abandoned on a road side with one sibling already dead!

They’d cooked tea the night before as it takes ages to make then 3 hours or so to cook. It’s a vegetarian version of their national dish, sarma, which is rice, various vegetables and tofu wrapped in a cabbage leaf. They made some cheese bread buns, proja, as we chatted before offering us the traditional drink to welcome us in funnel like glasses. The guys had the hardcore liquor, rakija, Ivana & I had the sweeter less alcoholic version. We chatted until the food was cooked, catching up on all they’ve done. A really amazing meal including the pepper salsa Ajvar. A bit more chat and we were ready for bed. We’re sleeping in their room, they’re on the sofa bed.

Saturday 15th

A long lie in then a thick hot coffee served with walnut Turkish delight. Don’t drink the full cup was the advice as thelast bit was the coffee dregs. Plenty of snow outside. We headed out to the local police station to get our ‘white paper’ which is our ‘registration of place of stay’. If we were in a hotel they would have registered us. Mike says he’s never known anyone to be asked for this but would hate us to be in trouble if we didn’t have it.

We had breakfast in a little bakery, the traditional meal is Burek, a greasy pastry cooked in a frying pan like an omelet. There is a meat version but we had the cheese one with yoghurt to drink to reduce the grease. Mike drove us into the centre of town passing a lot of large impressive old buildings. There’s a modern New Belgrade across the river. Mike parked on a side street and I was speechless as there was a gelato in front of us. We went into Bacio gelato and I had Bacio flavour which is a traditional Italian ice cream of chocolate and hazelnuts. Andy had chestnut. Mike took a great photo of us outside with the snow falling. We walked up the hill and found a donut shop which were amazingly decorated and nearby was a pancake place that they’d heard of but we were full and more in need of a drink after the salty burek.

Most of us opted for Hot chocolate in the kafeterija. Hot milk with a lollipop of dark chocolate for us to melt into the milk. Ivana had been feeling unwell so she stayed there as Mike, Andy & I walked through the snow to Fort Kalemegdan. Initially we walked through the park watching children sledging then round the outside of the impressive walls until we came to a gate so we could enter the fort area. Mike was a little disoriented with the snow and lack of visibility as we made our way around. We found the Viktor statue which overlooks where the Danube and Sava rivers meet. We could just make out the Danube and little else below.

Mike used google maps to get us back to the city centre but this took us to a dead end by the military museum so we saw lots of snow covered guns and tanks. We tried a different way and passed some snow covered dinosaurs.

Mike and Ivana had been really surprised with the gelatero earlier so Mike was amazed when I spotted another one. We checked inside to ensure there’d be a flavour for me another day. We were walking to see an intricately decorated Church called Saborna Crkva. Across the road we went into a traditional coffee place to have an expresso style coffee. They were named after the church opposite originally but as it’s a bar it was thought to be blasphemous so they renamed it to ‘?’. The coffee was in a copper tiny pouring pot and again was very thick so we waited for it to settle before drinking. Again we had Turkish delight to eat.

Just before we got back to where Ivana was we found another gelatero so I’m very pleased to know we’ll have more ice cream options on other days! They’ve also told us about a traditional flavour but think it’s only on massed produced ice cream rather than sold in gelateros. It’s made from the same biscuit stuff that they give babies as they are weaned, called Plazma. We stopped at the donut shop. Andy got a Mama Mia and I got Ferraro Roche covered.

Back to their flat but on a long diversion due to a road being closed. This meant going over the river Danube twice. We decided to have an evening at home and eat left overs. Mike chatted to Ivana’s brother who lives up stairs and he has more recommendations for ice cream & donuts for tomorrow. They have two very gentle Great Danes upstairs that we’ve met a few times. Andy and Mike nipped to the local supermarket and bought various things including chocolate peanut puffs, ‘Smokey’. I wanted Serbian chocolate as I didn’t want to eat the quality streets we’d brought for them.

Tea was left overs from yesterday plus sausages and veg. We were all too full fit the donuts. I suggested we wait for 45 minutes before eating them. Mine was delious! We had a few games of cards before bedtime at 10:30. Lovely day of eating and chatting.

Sunday 16th December

Another long lie in. The heating system over here is government run. They pipe the heat into everyone’s house whatever the temperature so to cool down you open a window. I did that during the night and managed to pull it onto one hinge. Andy fixed it.

We were both full still so declined porridge knowing we were heading out for Plazma shakes. We had coffee then headed out for the shakes in a smokey cafe nearby. Tall glasses with chocolate squirted on the sides of the glass and the thick finely crushed biscuit mixed with milk and cream on top. Really nice but unusual with the bitty texture from the biscuit and a malty taste. This is the thing to have in Serbia.

We went back for the car but left the poorly Ivana behind and drove to Ada, which is an section of the river which used to be separated by an island that has been dammed off to form a lake. As a land-locked country they use this as a ‘beach’ resort. Lots of cafes line the path that circumnavigates the lake. Most were shut. We stopped at one near the other end. The guys had mulled wine and I had the very thick hot chocolate that Ivana said I needed to try. Really nice except I had ‘slag’ on it which is cream which melted and made it thinner. It’s more like a pudding than a drink, you are always given a glass of tap water with a drink luckily.

A few people were running round the lake but most walking. They’re not a nation that likes to walk and isn’t helped by the largest snowfall for 10 years. It was a nice place to be. The snow was nice and deep around us but none was falling. The paths were mostly cleared. On the island side there were a lot of trees away from the water’s edge which was nicer than the built up main land side. It was always less cold that side somehow or maybe as the path was clearer we could walk faster to keep warm.

We headed back to the car and into town. We parked in the multi-storey car park for the new shopping centre and not far from here was The Black Sheep ice cream place, called Crna Ovce. Straight away I spotted Plazma and knew I’d have to have that flavour with it being so unique to Serbia. It was as nice as the milkshake. Mike had lemon and basil which was amazing, Andy’s was butter and berry, interesting! I was amazed how many other people were in there when it’s so cold outside!

Back to the car. Mike tried to ring Ivana to discuss going to a viewpoint for hot chocolate, no answer so we headed back. She’d been asleep and we were all happy to relax and drink tea. We also tried Eurocreme, a creamy white & milk chocolate spread, initially with pretzel sticks but then Mike brought the Plazma biscuits out and before we knew it Andy was making eurocreme sandwiches with them. Great stuff.

Andy and Mike went to buy a SIM card which only worked in my phone but we can communicate when we head out on our own tomorrow, plus find our way round. We headed back to town to the waterfront between the two main bridges to a pizza place on a boat. It was a bit of a walk along the dark & deserted path alongside the Danube to get there which we were happy about but not so good for Ivana being unwell. She’s hoping to run the Belgrade half marathon in April. Currently she can run 7km so should be able to build up but is hampered by a 90 minute one way bus commute to work using up key training time.

There were quite a few modern looking floating restaurants that all looked closed but there were lights on the old boat that we were headed for. There were a few people in it but we got a table by the fire and ordered 3 vegetarian pizzas to share. Andy found a couple of board games and we settled down to a very competitive game of Spongebob Squarepants ludo. There was a break in play as we ate the very nice pizzas. They roll the edges of the pizzas and stuff the platted crusts covering them with sesame seeds. Plenty of toppings and chilli sauce to go on them.

Mike played aggressively and nearly won but for Ivana knocking him out when all he needed to throw was a 1 but couldn’t. Ivana eventually won.

Andy had had a headache earlier. He’s sneezing a lot as his cold hasn’t yet gone but he’s also a little bit allergic to the cats. I started with a cough so was pleased to be heading for bed 10ish again. We’d managed to get my phone to work as a WiFi hotspot so Andy could get Internet on his phone too. I can’t get iMessages as I have a new number but have managed the settings so I’ll still get WhatsApp.

Monday 17th

Another lazy lie in. By the time we got up Mike was back from taking Ivana to work. They’d had to climb over the sliding gate that’s the entrance to the house as it was frozen so he headed out with the kettle. Her brothers children were saying they couldn’t get out so couldn’t go to school. We had coffee and worked out where to go today. We needed to put extra money on the bus pass cards. Andy took us to the same kiosk that he’d got the SIM card from and easily did this.

We were by the bus stop. I’d downloaded an app Mooveit which told us when buses were coming but the one we wanted was late. We might have been able to get another but it stopped at 13 places rather than 3 and we didn’t realise we could get it till it had gone. The app tells you where to walk to get the next bus as well.

We were heading to Zemun where Belgrade first started. We got the next bus fine although didn’t try to get on the very first one that came as it was too full!

In Zemun there were steps up towards a tower rather than roads so it was interesting twisting and turning to get to the tower. I imagine there were several brick factories as the paths were cobbled with bricks and each had 2 letters on such as ‘DS’.

The snow topped Gardos Tower was locked so we headed to Gardos pub instead for excellent views over the town and down to the river which disappeared into the mist. A lovely view of the snow topped roofs but a shame not to even see the island which was close by. Another lovely hot chocolate for me and caramel mocha for Andy as we listened to loud English rock and roll music.

We followed the main cobbled street down to the River Danube and followed the paths back to town. Sometimes we were by the river but most of the time it was a raised path with trees arching over us weighed down a little by snow. Along the river’s edge were boats or raised platforms of mostly restaurants although at times there were private homes but also a few Botels then hostels. We followed the river edge path as we got closer to our goal of a pancake restaurant that had been recommended, Keops. We both tried the savoury spaghetti pancakes Andy had mushroom and ham, I had 4 cheeses sauce. The spaghetti was pancakes that were cut into strips like spaghetti. The pancakes themselves were cold but the sauce warm. We counted that as breakfast even though it was 1pm. For pudding which we decided was lunch Andy had nougat and chestnut purée, I had nougat, sour cherry and biscuit. Both really nice, we shared them.

We continued along the riverside. Some guys were exercising in the snow in just shorts, flipping massive tyres over like we do in Strength & Conditioning at Andy Berry’s gym. We came to the river Sava and followed that to the first bridge and crossed over to the city side. On the other side we headed back along the river back to the Danube and round under the fort. Visibility had been poor all day so we could only just see the Viktor monument high above as we approached. We soon headed back towards the city centre once we’d rounded the tip of the confluence.

We soon passed yesterday’s ice cream shop and rounded a corner to find Beli Meda. I already had in my head which flavour I would have until we spotted venecijana. The lady told us it was Vanilla, cinnamon, apricot and mango sauce with a touch of chocolate. It was wonderful the cinnamon really came through. We sat to eat and watched the Christmas lights coming on in the park across from us.

We walked from here towards Trg Republike, a square where we knew there was a horse statue and was in the heart of the city. We could see more Christmas lights and walked through them to the main pedestrian streets. There was also a traditional market like the German market in Leeds. We followed google maps to Ferdinand Knedle where we were meeting the others. It was tiny so we were working out where to sit and wait when I checked but realised we were at the wrong one. We soon found the correct place heading back passed the market and lights again.

Ferdinand Knedle is a place that sells potato dumplings and had a lot of different flavours & fillings, sweet and savoury, to choose from. The place was empty so we bought hot drinks and settled in. People came and went but didn’t stay long so we knew we’d be fine for when Mike arrived having picked Ivana up from work. We all had 2 dumplings to start with mostly savoury. I had dried tomatoes, black olives and feta & broccoli, peanut and mozzarella. Really nice with a spicy sauce on the side. The guys shared 3 sweet dumplings for pudding. Ivana and I chose one each, I had raspberry and sweet cheese, which was filled with sauce and really yummy.

We walked towards the location of our evenings entertainment where we were booked in at 7:30 so we had drinks nearby. My hot chocolate was the thick amazing pudding type but I wished I’d got the chamomile tea as I was full up but thirsty, luckily they brought tap water too.

The Escape Room is a solve the puzzle type experience. We were to solve the Alien Invasion. The guy explained in basic English what to expect, I was the only one of the 4 of us who hadn’t done one before. We were given white coats and were in a room with padlocked drawers and various clues on the wall. We’d been putting our hands on the black outlines of hands but it didn’t seem to do anything eventually the guy called through saying try for a few minutes, the 30 degree thermometer symbol was meant to tell us that warmth would reveal an equation. With 6 equations from 6 hand prints we had the codes we needed to get into one padlocked draw. We managed to work our most clues but he hinted a couple of times especially when we had the right answer for a safe but hadn’t turned the handle the right way. It was real team work as some of us worked out some things and others other bits. We managed to save the world within the hour so were quite pleased. The guy was very excited about practicing his English but the small room was really hot!

We headed back home for drinks before bed. I did a quick search for ice cream places tomorrow and found an article calling Belgrade the Capital of ice cream culture https://belgradeatnight.com/capital-ice-cream-culture/ I made a list of about ice cream places close to where we’ll be tomorrow! Mike and Ivana were both very surprised.

Tuesday 18th December

A hot shower and cup of tea to start the day. Chatted with Mike until we headed out for the bus at 10. Moovit gave us the bus to town and then walking directions to the Nicola Tesla museum. We were just in time for the English tour. There was a video to watch about Tesla’s life, he was born on the Serbian border and it outlined his education before the various jobs and the opportunity to develop his ideas in America. Really fascinating. A guide explained more things and showed us how some of his machines worked with the science behind them but he spoke so quickly with no chance to absorb what he was saying. We were pleased that English is our first language and just about managed to follow what he was saying. He showed us how Tesla was ahead of his time with wireless conduction of electricity. There were 2 massive coils and several of us held light bulbs when the electricity was turned on the light bulbs lit up as we conducted the power.

We had a quick look around the small and very interesting museum. He’d wanted to use the earth’s natural energy to power us all rather than fossil fuels but it’s such a shame was hit mysteriously by a car and died from his injuries before he finished developing the technology.

We had met Ivan (from downstairs) as we were leaving the apartment and he recommended the ice cream from Pelivan and not to have the expensive cake at the Moscow Hotel as Mike advised. We found where Pelivan should be but needed google maps to guide us to where it actually is. Quite sensibly they don’t serve ice cream in winter so we settled down to cake and coffee, sadly no hot chocolate either! Andy had their Moscow cake and I had Pelivan cake. All very nice. We can understand why the Moscow cake was recommended as it had lots of layers with different flavours especially of fruit.

Google maps found another ice cream place that was on our way but it looked like it’s been taken over by Bacio when we found it, I’ve already had a Bacio ice-cream. Luckily nearby was another place called Luff. Pumpkin seed for me and poppyseed strudel for Andy! Both were amazing, just so different and exciting. Mine had a very nut butter texture.

We were soon at Saint Sava the largest orthodox cathedral in Serbia. The main church is being restored but we could go down to the richly decorated crypt. That’s large enough in itself.

Moovit got us back to a bus stop and the 52 to the Supervero supermarket near to where Mike and Ivana live. We’d not got their address written down so this was a perfect way of finding them as Andy remembered the district they are in. We bought a new toy on a pole for Erika.

Mike was in and he took us to Aleksandar Club ski chalets. He was heading off to find an Internet cafe before meeting Ivana. There are meant to be good views from chalet but the mists hid anything in the distance. We had thick hot chocolate before walking back through the forest. Mike and Ivana come up here to run and it was lovely feeling we were away from the city. The path was slippy in places but people had trodden down the whole route so it was easy to follow as the light started to fade. We saw one person out running.

Once we got to the road we used google to get us back to the apartment via a few side paths. We made plans for the evening as Ivana had been told she could bring us to her works Christmas party we thought about going but all decided to stay in. Ivana and Mike had been planning plenty of different home cooked food for us to tryl.

The others went out to buy food as I got caught up with the diary and entertaining Erika. Mike was keen for Andy to try a locally made burger, pljeskavica. The meat is mixed with bacon and cheese. They were both surprised how big the burger itself was. Ivana and I shared a pizza with mushroom and some soft cheese on. Ivan promised to come and make the next course after he played table tennis in the basement. His Great Danes were whining in the hallway so Ivana opened the door for an introduction to the cats. Usually the cats hiss but today they watched from a safe distance. Erika soon got bored and wanted Andy to play with her. We settled in to playing cards.

Ivan made givanich which is cheese with filo pastry in layers and puffed up like a soufflé. He said it would take an hour to cook but I’m sure it was nearer 2.5 hours as it was gone midnight before we ate. He’d brought his home rakija one was made from grapes and I’m sure it evaporated in my mouth before I had chance to swallow any of it. He also brought some slatko which is quince and walnut, it’s something that Serbian have every morning to stimulate their metabolism. It’s really sweet.  

Mike made šopska which is a salad of tomatoes, cucumber and the salty cheese.

Ivan’s girlfriend was there, she’s also a chef and stars in a tv cooking show Katy Kitchen. She showed us part of a show where she’s seeing how people live and cook in the countryside.

The food was amazing but hard to enjoy well past bedtime. A great way to end the holiday. It was nearly 1 before we headed to bed, we set an alarm for the first time this holiday.

Wednesday 19th December

Strange having the alarm mark 9am although Andy had been awake awhile. Coffee was ready for me after my shower. We ate left over givanich with yoghurt then tucked into the cake that Keti had brought. A slice had been cut out of it probably as part of a film shoot. Great cake with lots of layers. Ivana was worried we’d get hungry on our journey home so packed us up with plenty of cakes.

We packed up the final bits and headed out into the snow that was starting to look old. Mike and Ivana came into the airport to check our flight was on time and we headed through passport check.  

I’d checked already and found we’d be able to get ice cream at the airport so I was excited when we discovered our gate was A2 where the ice cream would be. We saw a cafe with a Moritz Eis ice cream freezer but no available flavours, I’ve already had each of them on this challenge. Luckily we then found a proper ice cream stand but even then only pistachio or banana to choose from. The banana was just like Andy makes it except they’d added an unnecessary sweetener. Really pleased to have had a 6 day run of so many different choices.

We found comfortable seats to wait until we headed through the bag check. This

time I’d taken my fleece off and boots but still beeped. I took my plastic watch off and they let me go back through and seemed happier. We’re flying back via Frankfurt on Lufthansa, again we have a tight turnover time in Frankfurt just 50 minutes. We left late but they announced a 1 hour 35 journey instead of the 2 hours we expected. No one sat in the window seat so we moved across from our seats to get a view over snow covered Europe.

I was quite pleased that the cabin crew spoke to us in German. They were offering the choice between cheese and chicken sandwich to others in English. We both had 2 drinks and then settled into the cake we’d had a breakfast. A bit of paper in with the cakes said prijatno!, weren’t sure if that was the name of the cake or it said enjoy!.

They gave us left over cheese sandwiches which we put with the rest of the cake.

We landed on time and just hoped we had enough time. Our boarding cards told us we needed gate B20, we were at C4. Police had a quick look at everybody’s passports as we entered the building. Ground crew advised us it was still gate B20. We had a fair way to walk up and down stairs to get to the wing we needed and then we had to go back through bag check. I put my watch in my pocket this time and got through fine. Andy had to take his boots of this time but didn’t need to last time. Luckily we were right at B20 and joined the short queue and boarded.

Another cheese sandwich and a smooth flight. We arrived, got through passport, picked up the car keys and were back at the car at 17:15, 5 minutes after we were due to land!

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150. Hardwolds 80

150. Hardwolds 80, 24th November 2018

80.81 out of 6059.25 total miles (average 39.86 miles per marathon)  1,915 m ascent

3.71 MPH,  16.11 minute miles

21 hours 47 minutes 42. 23rd lady of 35. joint 123 of 177

Our friend Phlis offered to support us on the Hardmoors 200 so we thought we’d give him a taster of a Hardmoors event. He and Jo came in Brian, his campervan, the night before to discuss tactics and also to give us a lift to the start. That was entertaining in itself as the police pulled us over saying we couldn’t sit in the back without seat belts. Luckily Phlis knew the law and after the police officer phoned a friend we were off again. 

We arrived before the bus from Filey so quickly picked up our race numbers and trackers from Jenny and Ken. Lovely to chat to people before the race brief. Also I’d won a couple of prizes that I should have been presented with at the Leeds Bradford triathlon club awards night that evening so Andy presented them to me under the Humber Bridge and sent on the photos. First Lady for the club championship duathlon race and first handicap Lady for the Ripon tri. 

The race starts at Hessle on the outskirts of Hull to run the 80 miles of the Yorkshire Wolds Way to Filey. We started just after 8 and had our first stop within meters at the gate to get onto the beech. It was flat then along the river before we turned inland through a town and onto the undulating route with a few surprise climbs, in general, it’s stunning countryside with the rolling hills and easy to follow the acorns of the national trail. It was a warm day initially with rain setting in with the nightfall. 

We chatted to John Kynaston quite a bit before he disappeared after my 2nd hourly video. 

We had a printed plan for the route giving us 4.5 miles an hour in the day then 3.5 miles in the dark to make us a 20 hour plan. This was partially so Phlis and Jo knew where and when to expect us. We were on time at the first checkpoint but didn’t need them so early on. 

The running was mostly smooth. Andy hadn’t felt well the week before the race so felt sluggish. It wasn’t long before I was phoning ahead asking for soup for him at checkpoint 2 Arras Wold. We’d agreed after there they would have a few hours off to go to Filey as Jenny was running the 2nd half of the race with Ken so she dropped her car there grateful for the lift back. Phlis and Jo were really supportive at each checkpoint. They also made sure we didn’t outstay our welcome in the van. 

We were steady all day. We soon realised we were slowing down despite good conditions with the weather and underfoot but we were pleased to just keep going. It was a little disappointing to know Ken and Jenny were well ahead of us when we reached Fridaythorpe and she’d gone already. 

The moon was amazing, lighting the way for much of the night although we got more rain than our support crew expected as they kept telling us it was due to be a dry night. 

It made such a difference knowing the route so well and therefore feeling confident with the navigation. I was wearing the kit I’d be using for the Arc of Attrition in February so I was pleased to feel confident although it was warmer on this race than we’ll be expecting in February. 

As we reached Filey the heavens opened and the strong sea winds were lashing the high tide across the seafront. We had to run along the front  passing the turn to the finish as we had to go to the Brigg first. There was no chance of going along the beach due to the high tide so we had to climb up and over the sea cliff before the climb up to Filey Brigg and up to the official end of the Wolds Way. Poor Rod was sat there in his tent!

To make the full 80 miles we had to head back into the heart of Filey to the finish at the Sea Cadets hall. I think the fastest we ran all day was along the road as we encouraged the others to join us. 21 hours 47:42. we were joint 123 of 177, I was 23rd lady of 35. 

Phlis and Jo then drove us home despite not having had much sleep themselves. They are hired for the 200!

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149. Hardmoors Goathland marathon.

149. Hardmoors Goathland marathon.

28 out of 5978.44 total miles (average 39.82 miles per marathon)  1,114 m ascent

4.48 MPH,  13:24 minute miles

6 hours 14 minutes 58. 94/187. 65th/165. 19th lady

Kippers first marathon. The weather looked very mixed with low mist and dark skies but it turned out to be really quite warm at times, perfect weather for running with a dog. No dogs were allowed on Goathland village hall so we took turns going in. It’s always to know the registration staff as they have me Andy’s number as well. He nipped in to pick up our Chia Charge order and drop our post-race bags off. He needed to eat his breakfast as he hadn’t whilst driving. Kipper also needed persuading to eat but did.

Kipper thought we were doing a parkrun as we sprinted down the road! He soon slowed and slipped into a good rhythm as we headed down towards the river. It was a steep climb away from the usual route due to a landslide further upstream not long after we reached the riverside. This was easier than seeing how we would manage on the wet rocks and short lead! Back into Goathland and along the road to meet the track taking us down to the first checkpoint.  It was harder going along the narrow path with Kipper in front as I couldn’t always see where I was stepping. I was grateful for Andy’s suggestion to take the lead off my waist and hold it on my hand making it longer. Andy and therefore Kipper went straight through the checkpoint. I had hoped to get a Jaffa cake but knew it wouldn’t be long until the next checkpoint.
As usual Kipper would pull me down hills but not up even with the draw of Andy in front of us. He stopped a couple of times but was happy to get going again and we were soon at the cairn where Mark Dalton was as usual. Kipper loved the feel of the heather on the next stretch often going off path for an extra good scratch or back rub. He also found plenty of puddles to drink from.
After the checkpoint I was pleased that Andy took him as he was too fast for me on the slippy downhill through the trees. Over the railway and up round the outside of the Hole of Horcum. Jason Cavill caught us up and chatted to Andy as I tried to keep up. A rare treat as Jason usually wins these races but he was on his 2nd circuit of the marathon for the day, Spine training! He soon disappeared as Andy waited for me. I felt slow but steady, my pace per mile wasn’t too bad but people seemed to be catching us easily.
Another checkpoint, as usual the team wanted to spoil Kipper. He was still in first place! Round the Hole of Horcum, a struggle as it’s gently uphill. Checkpoint at the Carpark and a nice downhill. John Friel was sitting on the gate at the turn off as the local farmer kept removing it. The team are usually good at talking to the landowners and I half overheard something later about the farmer doing the removing didn’t own that bit of land. Harriet and Karl joined us on the next stretch for a bit of chat with a friend Rachel. They soon moved on as we reached the section that makes me dislike this race. A long slow up to Lila Cross from the early warning station. It was hard work but I ran more of it than I expected and did feel good catching up with a few people. Good to see Rod at Lila Cross but sorry to hear he’s injured again.
Nice to talk to Karen Saward she recognised us from Wainstones when we’d encouraged her. She’d watched us on the Spine. I thought she was going to disappear off but after the last checkpoint as we headed back up to Mark Dalton’s001 Hardmoors Goathland marathon. 28 miles in 6 hour 14. 51 secs. 75th. Kipper first dog. (2)001 Hardmoors Goathland marathon. 28 miles in 6 hour 14. 51 secs. 75th. Kipper first dog. (5)001 Hardmoors Goathland marathon. 28 miles in 6 hour 14. 51 secs. 75th. Kipper first dog. (11)Sportsunday 2 cairn Andy got me running again and I was pleased to feel we were overtaking people again. That section over the top is flat for too long as you keep thinking you’ll be going down soon and we finally were. A quick hop along the road and I was surprised we were catching Harriet and Karl up again.
Such a good finish. Andy and Kipper fetched the car as I got changed and chatted. Some food and we aid our farewells. Kipper was first dog and still full of energy even when we got home!
Hopefully the link to Kippers sprint start!

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148. Hardmoors 60.

148. Hardmoors 60.

63.37 out of 5950.44 total miles (average 39.9 miles per marathon)  m ascent

4.08 MPH,  14.42 minute miles

13 hours 31 minutes 31. 94/187. th lady

This wasn’t the best preparation for a 60 mile race. I’d done a few half marathons but most of my training runs were no more than 10 miles other than Blubberhouses Moor in April. We’d been concentrating on triathlons and being a hot summer we were limited how far we could run with Kipper. We’d walked the Yorkshire Three Peaks in June with friends which was a long time on our feet which we hoped would help.

The plan was recce the Arc of Attrition at the start of September. A 100 mile race around the Lizard and Lands End in Cornwall. We’re doing the race in February. We averaged 20 mile days but did shorter days with Kipper and put him in kennels alternate days. On day 4, Thursday, my calf started to hurt but didn’t get more painful and wasn’t too bad in the evening or the next morning. Andy’s had Achilles problems for years so I tried not to complain but after 4 miles I was anxious I was doing too much. Ray, my sports massage guy could fit me in Tuesday evening and advised me to keep it elevated which I did. I managed to book in with a physio, Richard Le Hane, at the Lawrence Clinic Tuesday lunchtime. He listened then did a few tests and said I had a locked ankle. A few taps of the heal and I had the same range of movement as my left foot when I’d just been restricted! He also said not to run Wednesday but I’d be fine Thursday and could run the 60 miles on Saturday! I’m also still knocked kneed so need to get new shoe inserts.
I ran 3 miles on road Thursday evening, I didn’t push myself but the pain was more of a niggle again on Friday. We packed up and headed to Filey and I tried to remain positive.
We’re taking part in Paul Bergam’s uni studies which is about mental health and exercise. We’d filled in pre-race forms on Wednesday and I wasn’t my usual positive person.
We had pizza in The Boatshed then met a few other runners in the Bank before heading back to our luxury AirBnB. I needed a good sleep.
We caught the bus to Guisborough and helped out at registration as usual. Paul’s team had a list of questions and for all the anxious, angry and tired type questions I answered not at all but the positive energised questions I was extremely. I was wrapped up in the pre-race excitement so didn’t think any more about my calf.
I decided I’d wear compression socks and also to take paracetamol with caffeine in 4 hourly. I had a twinge when we set off but as soon as I swallowed the pills that had gone, placebo or lack of need?
A dry day with a few clouds around. It was dry going up to High Cliff Nab, we’re not used to that. I was soon warm. It was great chatting to people some we knew and others on their first ‘60’. We had a 14 and 15 hour race plan and wanted to start slow to ensure we had speed later on. We had the same feeling as last year that everyone was overtaking us. Perhaps we shouldn’t have started so near the front. It felt fine though, encouraging almost that this was the plan.
Downhill to Saltburn except for the climb up the quarry and into the valley gardens where lots of marshalls made sure we stuck to the race route and found the first checkpoint. We were just ahead of the 14 hour plan. I’d drunk my first bottle so filled that with mountain fuel and had a drink of coke in my second. There are no cups on this event but carrying 2 bottles ensured we had that flexible except for warm drinks later on the day.
Onto the seafront and up along the coast. We were leapfrogging a few people as they stopped to walk then ran again at different times to us. It really felt like ages since we’d run here as we’ve done so few Hardmoors events this year. It was good to refresh the route in our minds. It was warm, the cloud cover made it muggy and I’d hoped the coast would be breezier.
An hour or so before Runswick Bay I started to have a real dip so ate a chia charge flapjack and took my 2nd paracetamol with caffeine in. By the time I was filling in the questionnaire whilst drinking dandelion and burdock at Runswick Bay I was feeling much better again and scored myself very positive again but did admit to Paul the physiological boost of heading towards a checkpoint.
We are used to running down the road so we’re surprised to be pointed back to the steep steps. A gentle run on the sand overtaking quite a few runners who were walkers. Work has been done on the exit here, as we spotted a few times along the route which might be why it felt awhile since we’d been on this route.
Sandsend surprised me as I’d never really thought about the amount of road there is. I was pleased to get water from someone’s crew when we reached the first car park. Did I mention it was hot! I knew I’d had ice cream here once this year and was disappointed that I’d already had ice cream from the other places creamery. We walked up the long drag out of town and I was excited to see an ice cream van selling Beacon Farm. Time for Cinder Toffee at mile 28.5. An excellent ice cream packed full of flavour. Gosh, it’s a long drag to Whitby then all the roads and pavement through the very busy town. Andy walked the 99 steps for the first time ever.
A checkpoint just after the caravan park, I was mostly getting peanuts but was pleased with mini cheese and onion pasties. We were carrying large pasties and Andy shared his with me but he struggled to eat it finding it dry.
Just before Robin Hoods Bay Andy was having a low point so I gave him my last paracetamol thinking the caffeine boost would help. He also had something to eat. The real boost came from seeing Hari and Karl Shields. They were out to support Kate but saw us on the trackers so came to give us some encouragement. Amazing timing!
A quick food and drink stop at Robin Hoods Bay before the main stop at Ravenscar. I was pleased to sit but disappointed as all the pizza was on one plate! Fresh veggi pizza was in the oven but I didn’t want to stop for too long. We’d been running with a guy who asked if he could keep with us as we knew the route. We saved him from going to the Alum works as there were no markers to stop people following the official Cleveland way there. He left with us but soon headed on without us. On the road from the hall I wondered about stopping to tape a toe that was pinching but it was fine once we were off the road.
The Hayburn Wyke diversion was lovely and very straightforward. Once off the road we followed a stream under the trees, any later and we’d have needed headtorches as it was dark under the trees. I was still hungry so ate my pasty, this time it was too dry for me so I struggled but couldn’t convince Andy to have any.
Scarborough Castle did its usual tease of always being round the next bend, so much further than you think to go. Not long before Andy got my headtorch from the top of my bag. I’d had to show it as mandatory kit check at Ravenscar so put it back at the top. I was slowing down so Andy encouraged me to keep moving as he got his out. I soon realised he wasn’t there so slowed down. He caught me and was concerned as he couldn’t find his phone. No sound when I rang it but ‘find my friends’ showed it just behind us! He ran back in the dusk and found it when I rang it. Phew!
We ran and walked along Scarborough, stopping for chips. We sat on the big bench next to the sculpture for less than 5 minutes only managing half the chips.
Scarborough checkpoint was a welcome sight except the food was on the bench so I sat on the grass and filled bottles. I wasn’t enjoying the sweetness but knew I needed fuel so used half a sachet in my bottle of mountain fuel.
We were surprised by how many were in the checkpoint as we left. We were ticking people off despite our slow jog. By now we knew we were going to be slower than the 15 hour target. I was pleased just to keep going but felt a bit disorientated in the dark as I’d forgotten the route. I followed Andy trusting him.
The tide was in so we came off Filey Brigg and were back up again over another large bump which brought us back to the road and then it was just a matter of the cobbles up into town. I ran them though but not as fast as Andy. So pleased to finish before midnight and only 15 minutes slower than last year when we felt better trained.
I felt my answers weren’t too negative but I was admitting to feeling tired. One question was about confusion to which I said I wasn’t but then couldn’t remember Hari and Karl’s names as I looked around for my promised hot chocolate. I elevated my legs so pleased my calf had barely hurt the whole day. I had been concerned as we left Scarborough thinking I shouldn’t have given my last paracetamols away but I was fine!
So nice to have a short walk back to the AirBnB. She’d sent Andy a text saying to help ourselves to food. I’d eaten well but was pleased to have toast during the unsettled night. My legs were very restless!
Very pleased, a great start to our racing season. As usual, I carried too much food that I decided I didn’t want to eat. Scott Kinabalu were perfect but will go into retirement as falling apart. As usual I was pleased we’d taken the start so steadily as many of the people we saw near the start finished after us. Again as it got cooler in the evening we benefitted.
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Cornwall, recce Arc of Attrition

Sunday 2nd Drive to Marazion via Creedy.
 
I took Kipper round the block as Andy packed the car and we were off by 8:15. I slept on and off as we headed south. We stopped once and I put up with hot chocolate as they had no Chai Latte. We were with Bob’s by 13:15. Kipper loved being in his garden but somehow got out and was up in the woods. Andy found him quickly and we walked to the Three Pigs for lunch. Lovely to sit at the front.
 
We left Bobs just before 5 and went looking for food for tomorrow’s run but Tesco’s was shut so we just got petrol and headed on to Marazion in under 2 hours. Nice campsite just off the coast near St Michaels Mount. We set up then walked into the village to get food at the Kings Arms. Kipper was unsettled as usual but was happy when he got into the tent next to me for a change. He barked a few times but soon settled. 
 

Monday 3rd Coverack to Mullion 

 
We caught the 7:31 bus fine although had to feed Kipper from the spoon as he was so unsure what was happening so wouldn’t eat without that attention. The bus stop is only 5 minutes from the Dove Meadows campsite and had lovely views across to St Michaels Mount although mist covered its top. First stop was Helston we found the Park Coffee Shop thinking we could sit outside but they invited us in to sit with Kipper by the door. Scrambled eggs on toast and tea. 
 
Andy found dog treats in the local shop and we caught the 9:12 bus to Coverack. Interesting bus journey with the trees crashing over the top of the double decker and a few reverses as we went in and out of villages. 
 
The Walk/Run – 19.5 miles:
We were dropped by the coast and therefore right on the path and walked through Coverack. I was tempted to buy a gooseberry ice cream but they weren’t open. We were confused on leaving the village by 2 paths and no sign. I was convinced the top path was the right one but chose the lower closer to the sea path which got very narrow as it was overgrown and ended up in a play area. A lady redirected us we had taken the wrong one. 
 
The coastal path after this had a sign saying ‘higher path with steps or the rocky coastal path’, both official routes. We thought the race would choose the lower harder path but we soon came to a path diversion sign due to erosion and we were diverted up to join the higher route a little further along. We’ll check for race day where we need to be. 
 
Most of the route was on high flat peninsulas with not as many dips to inlets and streams as I expected. Not all the streams were accessible for Kipper being a long way down from the bridge and overgrown around them but we found a few spots for him to drink at and carried plenty of water which he didn’t really need until we stopped at the end of the day. 
 
Most of the downhills were run-able except for a few such as coming down to Kennack Sands where we found Kelly’s ice cream and salted caramel. Really big chunks of caramel which made the taste last longer. 
 
Rough rocks and uneven steps slowed us a little bit mostly the paths were fine. It’s was Andy’s day for falling (3 times) instead of me so he has a grazed knee.
 
We stopped for lemonade at a posh hotel just before the lizard lighthouse not knowing there were cafes just past the lighthouse. I was struggling with the heat and drinking loads so felt better for it but not hungry. We refilled all our water bottles. 
 
Most paths were clear to follow although over some of the head lands from here there was a choice of paths and most seemed to be cutting the main corner of the headland off, again we need to check the race rules.
 
At 2pm, in Kynance Cove, we had massive vegetarian pasties with lots of veg in which were fine but not overly tasty. The smoothies were wonderful though. It was a struggle getting away from there with full bellies plus Kipper was either struggling or decided he’d done enough. He kept going back down and even on the lead he’d stop, not wanting to move. Eventually he did but he stopped a few times to roll in something smelly before catching us up. 
 
The promised rain didn’t come but we had a couple of hours of cooler air and Kipper was much happier running a long with us so we don’t know what had unsettled him. We were going at 4 mph rather than the 3 we’d averaged all morning. 
 
We soon saw signs for Mullion but we were going down to the cove, which was a little confusing to get through and on to the other side of the village before heading up a stream to get to the bus stop at the far end of the village so ignored the first few signs. It was good to know we had plenty of time before the hourly bus arrived. 
 
Lots of really friendly, dog loving helpful people around today as well as plenty of foreign voices as we walked past them.
 
We took 6 hours 48 to cover 19.78 miles. Both still a little sore from Saturdays triathlon but mostly fine. Pleased to have done the distance as we’ve been doing mostly much shorter ones this year with Kipper although he’s managed the 3 peaks plus a half marathon.
 
Our bus tickets didn’t work for the first bus. We have an app on our phones. He let us on though. The second bus they took awhile to come up but worked. Luckily we only had 15 minutes to wait between buses in Helston. 
 
We walked down to the sea when we got back to Marazion as the sun was shining over St Michael’s Mount. Kipper was full of life running around with us and jumping onto walls so perhaps he’d not done too much! Back for showers, 50p for 7 minutes which was a very long time but very warm as I’d started to get cold when we got back. Andy cleaned Kipper as he’d found something interesting to roll in. He then snoozed as we got ready.
 
We had tea at the Station House towards Penzance. Really nice food. I’d forgotten how full I’d been and went for lasagne! Kipper settled on his bed under the table. 
 
He was so excited to be back at the campsite Andy hadn’t unzipped the tent before he was pushing his way in so got caught up between the tent and cover. I grabbed him as he squeezed out from under it and pulled him away to make sure he had a wee before going to bed. Andy had him settled on his bed by the time I came back from cleaning my teeth. He was much more settled and only barked quietly a couple of times. It was a windy night with the tent flapping away but I was soon asleep.
Tuesday 4th. Mullion to Marazion. 
 
We took Kipper to Doggy Day Care Cornwall. Despite having never been there before he trotted off happily with the guy only looking back briefly when Andy called his name. They look like they have an amazing supply of treats and food but we were in a rush to get back for our bus so we bought coffees for the car journey and were back in plenty of time to catch to 8:46 to Helston. Our tickets worked perfectly. 
 
A much sunnier start to the day although the breeze outside was chilly. The guy at the Doggy Day Care said to us to like their Facebook page and send a private message so he could keep us updated. Andy had photos of Kipper running with the other dogs before we got back to the campsite! 
 
At Helston we bought sandwiches for breakfast plus a raspberry Eton mess meringue. We sat at the bus stop eating as a lady warned us the buses were unreliable and if this one didn’t turn up we had a 2 hour wait! It turned up and by 10:05 we were back at yesterday’s end in Mullion.
 
The Run
A steady run down to the beach then a rolling ride around the coastline. Stunning views ahead of golden beaches. It was a very different day to yesterday but the breeze stopped it from feeling too hot. We were pleased to have remembered to apply sunscreen as the sun beat down on us. Luckily the route was taking us mostly north so the sun wasn’t in our eyes, a few people heading towards us looked to be struggling with it. 
 
The land was gently undulating. A few downs with steps that were mostly even but nothing too tough. We averaged 4 miles an hour comfortably. Lovely views out to sea. There were a few sections of path diversions due to cliff erosion meaning we needed to climb up the cliff side and along a higher path before coming back to the original path. 
 
The hardest section was the sandy beach between Loe Lake and the sea as we had no choice but to run on the beach as they have fences up to separate the grassy area from sand. We stopped to get the sand and stones out of our shoes before we made our way to Porthleven. I’ve been to this lovely village with Dorothy as I recognised the church on the harbour, I’m sure she used to live there.  
 
From the bus earlier I’d spotted a place with home made ice cream as we went through Porthleven. Luckily the path took us all the way into town round the harbour and The Square was just at the end. I chose unwisely going for Strawbery and marshmallow rather than Andy’s raspberry and lemon which had a sharper taste. The strawberry was very faint but it was pleasant enough. We walked a long eating them. 
 
The path out of the town had a confusing signing saying ‘private drive’. It was between 2 roads. We weren’t sure which the drive was. We followed the route most people were walking on but that led to lifeboat museum plus also the private section. We’d not got far and reminded ourselves this is why we do recces. 
 
From here we noticed our pace was slowing as the climbs were harder & higher and less nice flat sections in-between. Plenty of sections I walked up as Andy ran. I didn’t want to over do it. A guy confirmed that the route was getting harder when he called this section ‘the warm up’. He said the north coast is more testing! He’s doing the 50 mile version of our race in February and lives just off the route. 
 
We saw a couple of stunning houses. One on the edge of the cliff with sea caves beneath. Another closer to the waters edge which we ran close by and it had a strange circular wall. A semi circle either side of the road which had a house on both sides. 
 
The wind had dropped meaning it was really warm in places especially when the plant life sheltered us from any breeze. The day just got hotter and we were grateful not to have Kipper with us as there had been few streams.
 
We stopped for drinks at the pretty Praa Sands. It wasn’t too far from here as we climbed yet another hill that I said I was sure we’d see St Michaels Mount from the top. We could. It wasn’t far back to Marazion as we wound through the nicely laid out fields. Another big diversion up into town before the mostly downhill back to our campsite. We’d been doing closer to 4 miles an hour on some sections but picked up speed at the end. 5 hours 15 to do 19.8 miles.
 
We showered and headed up to get Kipper who looked like he’d had a great day. We bought him some treats and got stuck in rush hour traffic back to Marazion. 
 
Andy had looked at the menu at The Cutty Sark so we headed there. They had one dog friendly table we could use until 19:30 when it was booked. The chickpea, spinach and sweet potato curry was amazing. I didn’t need the extra roasted vegetables I’d ordered so hungrily. Kipper didn’t settle as usual until I put my coat on the floor. He sat happily on it and lay down for a treat and slept! He woke a few times but was really happy there!
 
We walked back so that Kipper could have a proper rest. We gave him the bulls pizle we’d bought as a treat and he wasn’t sure what to do so buried it under the towel Andy gave him. Eventually he sat and ate some of it and settled. A less windy evening. 
 
Andy’s had a good look at the different bus connections for the next few days. He’d done a lot of work online already but it’s good to fine tune it. 
 
I have a blister on my right big toe. My left knee hurt from time to time going down hill and I started getting shin pain on my right leg. A good stretch will hopefully mean I’ll be ok for the rest of the week. 

Wednesday 5th. Marazion to Lands End.

Up at 7am and on the 07:49 U4 bus to Penzance. We had beans and fried egg on toast for breakfast at Sullivan’s Big Breakfast diner by the bus station. We were having our yearly up date with our financial adviser so headed to his office for an hour chat. We update mostly by email or will do Skype chats but it was nice to see him in person.
The Walk
Back to the bus station to pick up the coastal path. We hope it’s straight forward along the seafront to here as we haven’t done the short section from Marazion to Penzance. I’m always keen to walk the town sections as often it’s hard to follow the twists and turns on the map. We’d already walked the section to Newlyn when we’d stayed there whilst on holiday with Gill a few years ago.
We headed slightly of course to Jelbert’s for their daily made clotted cream ice cream. Very creamy and worth the effort. I’d asked for one of their famous ice creams but there was no mention of clotted cream on top of it as I’m sure we had before.
Back on course and more road side walking all the way to Mousehole. I will struggle with so much pavement on race day as it hurts my feet. We will have been on pavements since the far side of Marazion to after Mousehole, about 5 miles!
We wove through Mousehole, I wonder if on race day people will stick to the main road and go straight through! You don’t always see the national trail signs. There was a sting in the tail at the end of the village with a steep hill to climb. A little more road then onto a track and wonderful views over the hedgerows to the sea and cliffs beyond. St Michael’s Mount soon disappeared behind us.
We followed the track which was mostly good underfoot but undulating. Mostly exposed but some lovely cool sections under trees. A few bits will be tricky in the dark such as stepping stones that had foliage in the voids so you have no idea how deep it would be if you missed a step or what you’d be putting your foot in. The tree roots we are used to negotiating with the light from our head torches.
We’d walked until we were off the road and agreed to only run down hill keeping a steady but slow pace for Kipper. The sun was shinning down but a good breeze kept us cool. There were plenty of easy to reach streams for Kipper. When he overheats he’ll lie in the water to cool down but he wasn’t bothered today.
Before Lamorna we had a section on the large stoned beach. Really easy to follow the path as the stones seemed to have been moved flat side up leading in towards the beach exit. Lamorna was a lovely little place but too early for us to stop. I loved the outside table, a plank of wood on the harbour wall so the high seats had you facing out to sea.
After this the sign warned of a rocky, tricky path ahead, and it was. A few times we were scrambling up and over the rocks. Even Kipper got halfway up one and looked behind for Andy to push him up. The path was a lot more undulating from now on with a lot of unevenly placed steps. There were a few steep downs, on one a guy was walking down wearing a wetsuit. It was far too hot for that but he was hoping for cold sea water to swim in at the bottom.
A few times I was sure we could see the outcrop of rock which hid the beach, Pedn Vounder just south of Treen, that Gill remembered from her childhood holidays. It seemed to take a while to get there due to so many other coves. The tide was in hiding the beach but we could see clearly across to the Minack theatre perched on the cliff side. We had a flatter section above the cliffs but also more choices of paths as they disappeared either to beaches or car parks. We will have to pay attention here.
We soon dropped down to the beach before climbing up the steps to the Minack theatre. Andy had been mentioning for a while about having a cream tea. There hadn’t been anywhere else to stop but his goal was Porthgwarra where we’d stopped with Gill. We both dreamed of large scones as I cursed the signposts, I think someone had over ordered “1 1/4 miles to Porthgwarra” signs as there was one at the bottom of the steps and another after the Minack car park. I’m also sure it was further than that anyway as there were a few bays to climb down and back up. The paths were very narrow along here which made it trickier passing the increased volume of people.
Finally I was looking down on the cafe garden we’d sat in before. We both had cream teas, which was 2 scones and tea but also a mug of milk. It was hard work leaving especially for Kipper who wanted to stay. Interesting how he did that Monday too after a break. Eventually he followed us and again rolled around in the grass a lot but not in anything smelly this time.
We had 3.5 miles to cover in 80 minutes to get the next hourly bus at 16:45. This time the terrain was much more like the first day. Over the tops of long headlands meaning a few long flat sections. There were also a few long downs and ups but we could see the buildings at Lands End for a while teasing us. We’re not sure if we should always have taken the lower paths as a few times there were higher paths. They may have been less hilly but probably longer. The map doesn’t help as it shows a path which says it’s the coastal route but the green national trail diamonds are on the hillier route!
Finally we were there 17.38 miles in 6 hours 24. We nipped to the Lands End sign. People were paying to have their town name on it and an official photo. We got someone to take a picture of us with the sign behind us next to the barrier.
The bus to Penzance was waiting and we had a few minutes before we got on. We sat at the back of the open top deck. Kipper fell asleep on Andy’s knee. The bus takes an hour as it nips down to each village on the coast. A few times we had branches brush our heads but usually on the slow winding routes down hill so it was fine.
We arrived at Penzance bus station and caught our next bus just 2 minutes later back to Marazion. Quick showers then back to the Kings Arms for tea. Kipper eventually settled on a towel under the table outside but he really wanted to play with George the black Labrador near us. After eating we sat inside for a while with him happy asleep as we planned tomorrow’s walk. Andy confirmed the buses and I realised we didn’t go close to any eating options except for a mile after leaving Lands End. Hopefully we can get food in the morning and will carry extra water. Tomorrow is our longest day, 25 miles! Kipper is having another day off at the Doggy Day Care.
Kipper was very excited as we headed beck to the tent. Was he tired? No he’d remembered seeing rabbits and wanted another try at playing with them. The sky was really clear with lots of stars.

Thursday 6th. Lands End to St Ives.

We weren’t sure whether we’d catch the bus we wanted or how the morning would go. Kipper had been disturbed a lot over night by various noises and warned them off with barks. The campsite had filled up. Our alarm went off at 6:15 and we were gone by 6:50. I picked up 2 pasties and some fruit pastels for us from Asda and we waited for about 10 mins outside Doggy Day Care until they opened. We weren’t alone wanting a 7:30am drop off. We drove back to Marazion, Andy dropped me at the road with our bags so I could get to the bus stop as he dropped the car at the campsite and ran down. Our 7:50 bus to Penzance was a few minutes late but we didn’t mind. We had breakfast at the same place as yesterday and the bus to Lands End left at 8:38. Everything had gone to plan.
The Run.
It had felt cold in Penzance but the sun was coming out as we arrived at Lands End. We retraced the path across the front of the ‘amusements’ and followed the coastal path. Initially good paths and clearly signed although we had to stop and check a few times. Luckily we did as I was thinking we could cut across a headland on race day but this time the path down to Sennen Cove was from the headland. A sign post seemed to point us to the beach at Sennen but we were hoping to avoid getting sand in our shoes. We walked through a car park and only just before the path rejoined the beach did we retrace our steps and found the path on the far side of the car park. We needn’t have worried about getting sand in our shoes, it was inevitable! This was a sandy path and it was hard to avoid the sand although there were grassy sides which helped avoid too much getting in. The path kept up away from the beach and we were soon on the grassy slope beyond the cove.
The mix of paths was frustrating at times, twice there was a signed higher rocky path. We followed the sign the first time but were parallel to the nicer path only a few meters below us! Sure enough there was a coastal path sign at the other end when we rejoined the nicer path. What a waste, we ignored it the next time. There were a few times when there was a nicer path but it went in a different direction and if we have trackers on race day those will be obvious so we need to see if that’s in the rules to follow or not. The GPS route on our phones is the official route so we think we will need to be on the trickier path. One was a steep climbdown to a road which we then followed the road up. Instead of a path that stayed at the same height until the road came up to it, the path joined the road. These were before Cape Cornwall, just 6 miles in. The other was a path tucking behind a rock and possibly smoothly joining our path but we had a few zigzags to go down only to come back up most of the cliff side in a short distance hence thinking the other path would be better! I can’t quite remember where that was.
Crossing over Geevor Mine area was tricky without many signs but logical, there were a lot people exploring here. Lots of old treacle mine buildings.
We could understand why the area is less visited with very few sandy beaches. There was a strong wind too and the sea below us crashed against the steep cliffs. We had our pasties for lunch at almost the half way point which I think must have been high above Portheras Cove as I seem to remember a beach below us but it doesn’t make sense with the distances. Most of the time we seemed to be high up on the cliff, coming down to cross streams. Paths with heather, gorse and blackberries either side of us to keep the path narrow. Or else bracken that was turning autumnal replaced the purple and yellow. The paths weren’t always smooth as they often had rocky sections to slow us down as we avoided tripping over.
We’d been warned that the section after Zennor got difficult due to large boulders but we could avoid them by going across the fields. We chose the tricky path and didn’t find too many boulders but kept wondering when we would get to the difficult section. There was nothing too challenging after this, just undulating and a lot of sections to be careful of due to uneven surface. We were also aware of how boggy it would be in winter. Often there was a line of stepping stones to avoid the mud we presume. We chatted to a guy who got as far as Lands End earlier this year on the race. He dropped out due to the mud. I guess it’s something we’re used to but he said knowing what the terrain was like after Lands End put him off continuing too.
The buses from St Ives leave at 20 minutes past the hour. We hoped to complete the 24 miles in under 8 hours but started to think we’d miss the 17:20 bus as the terrain was slowing us down so much. It was the uneven ground that meant we couldn’t get any speed up rather than  it being tough. Luckily the last 3 miles were much smoother and even with a last hill into St Ives we had 20 minutes to spare. Enough time to weave through the narrow streets which didn’t always have signs on to get to the other side of the town. Here we found ice cream. I didn’t hesitate and chose Lime and Chilli. Andy had a double scoop of it but I wanted to try the Cornish cream tea flavour too which was nice but not as amazing as the lime and chilli. The warmth stayed in your mouth for ages. A really amazing overall taste. Initially I wasn’t impressed as it took a moment for the chilli to come to full taste but then I was delighted.
7 hours 25 to do 24.44 miles.
It took a while to find the bus stop high above us up the zigzag streets and then we had to double check as the pick up point had been moved to a temporary spot. The bus arrived on time and took us straight back to Marazion. Enough time to shower and get Kipper just before they shut at 7pm. He’d been doing some agility and sounds like he’d had a busy day. We bought some extra dog food as we’ve been feeding him a little more than usual.
We drove straight to the Fire Engine Inn as Andy had booked a table. I fed Kipper as Andy went to secure the table. Again Kipper settled on the towel on the floor as we ate. Amazing food. I had cauliflower fritters with chickpea and spinach. Then chocolate brownie for pudding, Andy had the ice cream.
My right ankle up to my calf had started to hurt a little from around the half way point on the run but not bad enough for me to be worried. The rest on the bus helped but it was an annoying niggle. I did most of my usual stretches and just hoped for the best.
Kipper had a more settled night, but sneaked under the duvet to join us at around 3am!

Friday 7th September St Ives to nearly Hayle.

Today’s plan meant that we needed to do the 18 mile section by 3pm to catch the only bus back. To give us more time we decided on an early start. So up at 6am. Stove on to heat water to add to a pouch of dried camping breakfast. We caught the U4 6:50 bus to Penzance, a 10 minute break at the bus station to eat the tasty breakfast before catching the bus to St Ives.

Andy had forgotten to bring dog treats so we found a co-op then headed to our start point.
The Shuffle
My Achilles wasn’t painful when I woke and walked about but by the time we set off there was a dull ache. I didn’t need to limp but took it steady. It made no difference whether I was going up, down or on the flat. Just a sharper pain when pushing up the steps of which there were rather a lot! Andy has a similar long standing issue with his Achilles but has managed for a long time so initially I kept pushing forward.
We were on tarmac paths above the beach with gardens and beach cafe between us and the sea. A diversion through a resort was well signed. A few signs missing elsewhere but it all seemed logical. We spotted a guy with an Eccup 10 t-shirt on running towards us and I said ‘you’re a long way from home’. He’s the race director so was advertising it. We did the race this year, it’s just outside Leeds!
A few undulations and we were out the other side of Carbis Bay where the tarmac ended. Nice to run on sandy tracks round the headland to see Hayle ahead. We were soon back on tarmac parallel to the railway line.
I was moving ok but it wasn’t getting any easier. Sometimes as we moved along in a rhythm the pain would almost go but I knew this wasn’t good for me. We sat on a bench in Lelant to discuss the options. My ankle looked red and a little swollen. We decided to cut the walk short and head back to the campsite to rest my ankle. Andy looked at various bus options and we started walking to Hayle. As we reached the main road I knew even that was further than I should attempt. Andy went back on the bus timetable app and found a bus stop just a few minutes from where we were. We waited for our chosen bus but after standing for 10 minutes Andy spotted there was one a little later that would take us direct to Marazion rather than changing in Penzance. We had time for a pot of tea in the cafe of the garden centre we were next to, on the edge of Lelant.
We planned to have a paddle in the sea so got off the bus a stop early. Sadly the beach around the slipway to St Michaels Mount is dog free from 8am. Quite a few people were risking the £80 fine but we stayed off it and headed to the Beach Box cafe in the car park. It’s by our bus stop so I knew they had Gerrys Originals Luxury Cornish ice cream. There was little choice but I went for the Baileys. A creamy taste with a hint of something else. Very nice but not a really strong flavour.
Back to Dove Meadows campsite. Kipper looked happy just to be able to sleep, he even ignored a cat walking past the car boot where he dozed in his bed. We packed up and showered and headed back to Bobs.  Andy had rung him after we decided we may as well spend a bit more time with him and for me to relax my foot as much as possible.
A smooth 2 hour journey. As predicted I dozed some of it. We were greeted with raspberries and clotted cream, the perfect threeses.
Posted in Since I met Andy | Leave a comment

50 ice cream flavours before I’m 50 from 50 different creameries

 No 1. Blackcurrant and liquorice, 26th May, just yum! 8/10

Aj’s Fun Food Factory, 8 Marine Parade, Whitby YO21 3PR.

Andy chose me two different flavours as I was in the camper van stuck in traffic trying to get over the Swing Bridge. We’d been marshalling for the Hardmoors 110/160 at Ravenscar and were moving onto Kildale. This was the nicest flavour of the two hence choosing it.

Not sure of the price but good sized portions.

No 2. Kulfi Mango. 28th May. 5/10 

Shandaar Sweets & Ice Cream Bar, 1366 Leeds Road, Bradford, BD3 8ND.

Traditional Indian ice cream, Kulfi has similarities to ice cream in appearance and taste; however, it is denser and creamier. Can be made with evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk.  We just had the one flavour each. Creamy and the mango was tasty but I don’t think it’s top of my list as yet.

£2, average sized portion but it was 50p extra for the nice cone. 6/10 price rating

No 2. Kulfi Mango at Shandaar, 28th May.

No 3. Orange marmalade, 3rd June. 8/10

Tides, Sandsend. https://www.facebook.com/tides2010/

Even had the orange peel, just perfect. Nice and tasty. We’d been running the YVAA Vets race (race number 4) at Lythe, it’s a long journey over just to do 6 miles. Nikki Dewhirst kindly entertained Kipper as we ran. Great little hilly run, the perfect day out for a running family as we follow a few minutes behind the Mulgrave Castle 10K race so people not old enough to run the Vets race can do that. We then headed down to Sandend beach, studying the icecream potentials as we found a lunch stop then let Kipper play on the dog-friendly section of beach. This was our treat as we headed to back to the car.

Creamery http://www.mrmoos.co.uk/stockists.html

Not sure of the price

No 3 Orange marmalade at Tides, Sandsend, 3rd June (2)

No 4. Snickers, 11th June. 8/10

Icestone Gelato, 725 Leeds Rd, Bradford BD3 8DG

A proper taste of Snickers with the chocolate and peanuts, real peanuts. Proper tasty!! I’d been getting concerned that I’d not had a ice cream over the weekend. Andy was away. On Saturday I’d recced leg 2 of the Bradford Millennium Way relay with Rachael Newton, I’d not found anywhere close by online for ice cream so came home without, in hindsight, she’s an ice cream fan andI’m sure she would have suggested somewhere. Sunday I was at the Whitehorse Hardmoors marathon, Kipper and I were marshalling the 10k. We’d got a lift from Tim and Sally Ayres and I was sure I’d get good ice cream at Sutton Bank visitor centre but they only had vanilla and mint choc chip in tubs and I really want as many as possible in cones. Monday we went for a run around Tong and I was hoping for ice cream in Pudsey centre but the shop has stopped selling them. After showering we headed up by car to one of many ice cream places on the Leeds/Bradford road! It was very worth it and I’m so glad I’ve not known about this place before as it’s amazing for all it sells!

https://icestonegelato.co.uk/

Massive portions but worth it, £3.75 for 2 scopes. 10/10 price rating.

No 5. Brown Bread ice cream. 18th June. 7/10

Bettys Harlow Carr. Thanks to Chris Kane for the recommendation. Celebrating Fathers Day with mum and dad. Nice taste, I wouldn’t have known about the bread. Not top of the list but certainly not bottom.

https://www.bettys.co.uk/cafe-tea-rooms/our-locations/bettys-harlow-carr.

Unable to get in a cone £6.25 for 3 small scoops plus toffee sauce. 5/10 price rating (that’s Bettys for you)

No 6. Chocolate and Seasalt. 22nd June. 6/10

Northern Bloc, Leeds made ice cream at the Leeds Playhouse. This was during the interval of Searching for the Heart of Leeds  (http://www.leedsinspired.co.uk/events/searching-heart-leeds) a play that our good friends Jo Lee and John P were in. I was quite excited at the thought of the possibility of ice cream in the interval but tried not to get my hopes up too early and concentrate on the production. I wasn’t let down, the play was excellent, we were on the front row which meant we were very close to Jo and John at times. The ice cream was not very salty but a wonderfully rich chocolate! Quite liked Andy’s Hazelnut and Tonka bean flavour too.

£3 but at the Leeds Playhouse so possibly a bit more expensive than usual. 3/10 price rating.

No 6. Chocolate and Seasalt. Northern Bloc, Leeds made ice cream at the Leeds Playhouse. Not very salty but a wonderfully rich chocolate! Quite liked Andy_s Hazelnut and Tonka bean fla

No 7. Raspberry ripple, 30th June. 6/10

Yorkshire Dales ice cream at Ripon Racecourse from an ice cream van after a very hot Ripon trialthon. Pretty average taste really, but refreshing and perfect post-race treat! Ripon Triathlon, Swim 1500m, Bike 40km, Run 10km. It was hot out there, wetsuits were banned, which made me anxious as I feel safer with the buoyancy. My swim was slow but I overtook on the bike & run. Sarah 3 hours 2 and Andy 2 hours 57.

£3.60 Generous size for a medium. 7/10

No 7. Raspberry ripple by Yorkshire Dales ice cream after a very hot Ripon tri 3 hours 2 for me, 2 hours 57 for Andy Norman, official results later.

No 8. Green Apple, 1st July.  9/10

Sundaes gelato in Headingley. Nice big portions and refreshing flavour, I had a cheeky peanut butter flavour too but only count the one! Post Eccup 10 mile perfect way to cool down. Pleased with my 1:27:27 and Andy Norman in 1:24:45. A really hot run, I was really pleased with my time after the previous day’s race, I had suggested we cycle there as a warm up but we wouldn’t have had time for ice cream on the way home!

£3.50 Really good sized portion and nice cone. 9/10.

No 8. Green Apple at Sundaes gelato in Headingley. Nice big portions and refreshing flavour. Post Eccup 10 mile perfect way to cool down. Pleased with my 1.27.27 and Andy Norman in 1.24.

No 9. Dark Chocolate, 10th July.  8/10

Ecco Pizzaria in Headingley, post work treat before Films at Heart in Headingley
https://www.heartcentre.org.uk/event/films-at-heart-the-olive-tree/

A real rich chocolate but sadly not in a cone. Not so keen on the plastic tube and spoon.

http://www.eccopizzeria.co.uk/

£2 8/10

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No 10. Strawberry 15th July. 6/10.

Not much flavour and there was little choice but I was so excited to see the little stall at Barden Tower. I was 69 miles into the Bronte Sportive, Heathcliff. 92.2 miles, 8 hours 48 and 27 seconds. 3190m of ascent. I cycled off eating it only to find a hill and realised I couldn’t eat it and change the gears down, so I walked up the hill instead. It was such a hot day!

£2.20, small scoop, not much flavour. Yorkshire Dales Ice cream

No 10. Strawberry 15th July. At Barden Tower during the Bronte Sportive, Heathcliff. 92.2 miles, 8 hours 48 and 27 seconds. 3190m of ascent

No. 11 ‘Utter Chocolate’ by Doddington. 19th July. 8/10.

Only had the choice of 3 flavours but it was worth it a really nice chocolate. Andy’s strawberry was much nicer than mine from Sunday. Nice to have the unexpected surprise before the gig!

£3 6/10

No 11. Chocolate (2)

No. 12 Vanilla. 21st July. 7/10.

Yorkshire Three Peaks cafe after Whernside. No choice but it was perfect after 8.5 hours with another 4 to go. We were walking the 3 peaks raising money for Wheatfields with others we’d met when we climbed Kilimanjaro. A cooler day after the long hot summer. A nice tasting vanilla.

£1 8/10.

No 12. Vanilla

No. 13. Toffee Fudge. 22nd July. 8/10.

Chimney Cake also known as Kürtőskalács an eastern European cake cooked on a spit and filled with cream and sauce before being topped with the Cheshire Farm icecream. Really lovely flavour of toffee but I guess it was the whole presentation that won me over. Found at the Yorkshire Dales food festival https://www.facebook.com/TheChimneyCoManchester/

£5 8/10.

No. 14. Honey and Ginger. 28th July. 6/10.

Goodalls Ice Cream. Nice but couldn’t really taste the ginger, lovely to share the experience with the Coules. We’d walked along the valley between the Bankhouse pub and Tong, narrowly missing rainstorms. I think the kids enjoyed the play area more than the animals or icecreams. The question of the moment was were they Llamas or Alpacas?

£2 6/10.

No 15. Butterscotch, 29th July. 8/10.

Ryedale of Helmsley at The Forge Tearooms in Hutton Le Hole. Nice chunks of butterscotch and creamy ice cream, we’d recced the Rosedale half marathon route in pouring rain and strong winds. Great that Kipper managed it. He never seemed to loose energy and was keen to chase sheep even at the end but was shivering when we stopped. He was happy to sleep under the table in the tea rooms.

No idea what the price was!

No 15. 29th July. Butterscotch. Ryedale of Helmsley at The Forge Tearooms in Hutton Le Hole.

No 16. Peach mango twist. 30th July. 8/10.

Harbour bar, Scarborough. Having seen the Proclaimers at The Spa the previous evening and camping afterwards we came down into Scarborough looking for breakfast. Chris had recommended this place so I had an early treat before we ran from Scarborough to Cayton Bay a dog friendly beach for Kipper to have a run around on. He was shattered on the way back and kept lying down for a rest. Half ice cream and half sorbet with a really sharp tang to it, really unusual and rather rummy.

£1.85 9/10

No 17. Jammy Dodger. 3rd August. 9/1

Swirlz of Pocklington. We’d recced one lap of the cycle route for the Sundowner Middle distance triathlon which we’re doing next month. A very flat route close to Pocklington so we had to nip in for refreshments as it was a warm, muggy ride. My initial taste was the delight of jam, the biscuit part was soggier than I expected but over all it was perfect. I also think I came away better off than Andy with his 2 flavours as mine went all the way down the cone.

£2.20 9/10 Amazing!

No 17. Jammy Dodger. 3rd August. Swirlz of Pocklington. We_d recced one lap of the cycle route for the Sundowner Middle distance triathlon which we_re doing next month. A very flat r

No 18. Riggwelter Raisin Ripple. 5th August. 10/10

Brymor at Shop on the Green in Hutton Le Hole following a very hot Hardmoors Rosedale half marathon, very pleased with the results especially as I seemed to speed up as race went on especially with the hills. We didn’t take Kipper with us due to the heat of the day. The taste was amazing from the start a very rich taste that could have been rum, Andy suggested whisky, I get to try the Riggwelter beer tonight as we bought some for Andy. The wonderful taste was there with every lick and didn’t disappear as it has done with many other ice creams I’ve had with this challenge so far. It’s hard to say if this will beat the Snickers ice cream for my favourite or not!

£1.70 9/10 Amazing!!

No 18. Riggwelter Raisin Ripple. 5th August. Brymor at Shop on the Green in Hutton Le Hole following a very hot Hardmoors Rosedale half marathon, very pleased with the results especiall

No 19. Bounty. 12th August. 7/10.

Creme de La Creme. Following Kelly’s hen do that quickly changed from Picnic in Pudsey Park to an amazing spread at our house provided by all the hens and then a trip to Creme de la Creme on Leeds Road, everyone else went for massive ice creams whereas I only had room for one scoop which ended up being a tiny scoop! It was a very coconutty taste with nice bits of chocolate but I was disappointed with the size of it.

£2 3/10 Tiny!!

No 20. Blackcurrant in clotted cream 17th August. 7/10.

Marshfield farm at Manor Pavilion Sidmouth watching Funny Money. Cathie’s 50th birthday celebrations at Creedy. Could tell there was clotted cream and there were fresh black currants which were very tasty.

£2.30

No 21. Mint choc chop. 18th August. 7/10.

Styles at Haldon Forest Park after Go Segway for Cathie’s birthday. A very bright green but it was the dark Chocolate that I really liked.

Zac bought it and I didn’t spot the price.

No 22. Eton Mess. 19th August. 8/10.

Farmer Tom’s. Seafront at Exmouth. We’d been to the Devon chilli festival at Powderham Castle with some wonderful flavours especially the chilli chocolate and cheese. We then got the ferry across the estuary to Exmouth and walked along the seafront as the sun came out. The place we were aiming for had Marshfield ice cream but across the road was this lovely alternative. The flavour was creamy but the raspberry bit didn’t really taste of anything different, the highlight was the bits of sweet meringue.

£1.75 6/10

No 22. Eton Mess. 19th August. 810. Farmer Tom_s. Seafront at Exmouth. We_d been to the Devon chilli festival at Powderham Castle with some wonderful flavours especially the chilli c

No 23. Sticky Toffee Fudge. 23rd August. 7/20.

Beechdean at The Royal Hall, Harrogate during Gilbert and Sullivans Yeoman of the Guard with Mum, Dad, Gill and Andy. Nice chunks of fudge on top of the creamy ice cream with the sticky toffee at the bottom, the creamy middle section was a touch of a let down as non-descript but overall it was fine. I need to add that it was different to the Toffee Fudge I’ve had before.

£3. 5/10 The usual overpriced small tub.

No 23. Stickt Toffee Fudge. 23rd August. 720. Beechdean at The Royal Hall, Harrogate during Gilbert and Sullivans Yeoman of the Guard with Mum (1)

No 24. Salted caramel. 3rd September. 9/10.

Kelly’s at Kennack Sands on the Cornish Coastal path as we recce a race for next year. Another long-lasting taste, nearly as nice as Righwelter Raisin Ripple but not quite. Nice chunks of caramel. Just lovely.

£2 6/10

No 25. Strawberry and marshmallow. 4th September. 5/10.

The Square at Porthleven, From the bus earlier I’d spotted a place with homemade ice cream as we went through Porthleven. Luckily the path took us all the way into town around the harbour and The Square was just at the end. I chose unwisely going for Strawbery and marshmallow rather than Andy’s raspberry and lemon which had a sharper taste. The strawberry was very faint but it was pleasant enough. We walked along eating them.

£2 6/10

No 25. Strawberry and marshmallow. 4th Steptember. 510. The Square at Porthleven, From the bus earlier I_d spotted a place with home made ice cream as we went through Porthleven. Lucki

No 26. Clotted cream. 5th September. 8/10.

Jelbert’s, Newlyn. We headed slightly of course to Jelbert’s for their daily made clotted cream ice cream. Very creamy and worth the effort. I’d asked for one of their famous ice creams but there was no mention of clotted cream on top of it as I’m sure we had before.

£1.5. 8/10

No 27. Lime and chilli. 6th September. 9.5/10.

Scoops in St Ives. Initial taste didn’t impress me but the aftertaste of the chilli was amazing. Even after a taste of my Cornish Cream Tea second scoop the delicious chilli lingered on. I was very impressed. We had just run 24.44 miles in 7 hours 25 and were worried we’d miss the 17:20 bus but we got through the last few miles much quicker than expected and had 15 minutes to spare. Just enough time to stop for the 2 scoops of ice cream on St Ives seafront. We were spoilt for choice but this place promised a wide selection. First flavour I saw was this lime and chilli, Andy didn’t regret having 2 scoops of it. Just amazing! My top flavour of the year so far!

£4.60. 9/10, 2 scoops and loads of it!

No 28. Baileys. 7th September. 6/10.

Gerrys Originals Luxury Cornish ice cream at Beach bar, Marazion. Lovely and creamy with a Baileys taste but nothing special. I was pleased to have this as the bar was usually shut after we’d been walking all day but sadly my Achilles was painful and we needed to stop the run early.

£2.5 6/10, not very much!

No 29. Damson, 8th September. 8/10.

Hillbrook Farm at Gloucester services. Journey home from Cornwall holiday. The ice cream counter was shut on the way down so I was pleased not to be let down. I’m now starting to run out of basic choice of flavours, but at least I had this new one to try. Very tasty but not a long-lasting flavour. Had to ask a stranger to take the picture as Andy was buying lunch.

£2 8/10. There was plenty of ice cream in the cone.

No 29. Damson, 8th September. 810. Hillbrook Farm at Gloucester services. Journey home from Cornwall holiday. The ice cream counter was shut on the way down so I was pleased not to be le

No. 30. Sour Black Cherry, 14th September. 4/10.

Sant’ Angelo Ristorante Italiano, Wetherby. Homemade in the restaurant which makes it all the more interesting. We were passing through Wetherby and I remembered seeing this place before I started the ice cream challenge but we didn’t go in. I really wanted to try the Lemon Curd but they’d run out so I tried the sour black cherry. I got Andy’s coconut first and we realised it was a small scoop but for 50p more I could have 2 scoops. I’m glad I did as although the creamy ice cream was lovely there was only 3 black cherry’s in all of that and then the sourness was smothered in a sweet juice! Nevermind, plenty more flavours out there. I liked the ice cream cooler, it was circular and she turned it round to move the flavour you wanted to the serving hatch, very unusual.

£3.50 (2 scoops) EXPENSIVE!

No 31. Cinder Toffee, 15th September. 9/10.

Beacon Farm ice cream, Saltburn. Mile 28.5 of the Hardmoors 60 race from Guisborough to Filey. I’d been hoping to get ice cream in Whitby but I was delighted to see an ice cream van that had Beacon Farm ice cream as we slogged up the road out of the town. I was even more delighted as all bar this flavour I’d had before. I quickly checked my lists and knew Id not had this before. Amazing and not just because I was so tired but there were amazing chunks of the cinder toffee. Very sweet, just what I needed to get me up the hill on the way to Whitby.

£1.90 Great value

No 32. Bakewell Tart, 29th September. 9/10.

Our Cow Molly. 13.5 miles into our 53 mile social bike ride with the Leeds Bradford Triathlon club in the Peak District. A cool start to the day but the hills soon warmed us up for our first stop of the day. Thanks to Richard for finding the place but also to Rachel who recommended it previously. Such an amazing day with the sunshine and views. Great ice cream, amazing portion with the jamminess of the Bakewell coming through with each mouthful. We both chose Bakewell Tart with us being in Derbyshire!

£2 9/10 Great value!

No 33. Cinnamon and plum, 7th October. 7/10.

Windermere ice cream co. At the end of Kelly and Olly’s magical wedding weekend. We’d just been on a boat round the islands of Windermere and thought ice cream would be perfect, despite the rain. Couldn’t resist this unusual sounding flavour. Loved the large chunks of juicy plum, the cinnamon was great to start with but soon didn’t stand out.

£2.10 8/10 Not bad.

No 34. Nocciola – hazelnut, 12th October. 9/10.

Cena Bistro in Guiseley. Meal out with Lorna and AnneMarie, great pizza but amazing hazelnut icecream, with the real crunch of the nuts themselves, really strong flavour throughout.

£4.95 5/10, restaurant prices!!

No 35. Pistachio, 29th October 7/10.

Jake’s at Lulworth Cove. Spotted before our walk up to Durdle Door and intrigued as it’s homemade. Not the strongest of flavours but a natural colour as they’ve always looked very false before which made it all the more enjoyable. Loads of nuts in it to enhance the flavour.

£2.80 8/10 a very healthy sized portion.

No 36. Caramel chew chew, 9th November 9/10.

Ben &Jerry’s. Bradford Odeon Lux before Bohemian Rhapsody with Lynn, Caroline and Josie. Very nice and caramelly! I was so pleased when Caroline sent me a text beforehand asking if I knew what icecream was sold here as her daughter was asking, kindred spirits!

Gift

No 37. Maple Walnut, 14th December 8/10

Movenpick. Zürich airport. Missed flight from Manchester to Belgrade but were given a flight 3 hours later so we wandered around the airport and found these. Can’t believe it’s been so long since my last ice cream! Full of flavour and lots of tiny chunks of walnut, delicious.

No idea how much it cost, but judging by the bill when converted for all our food it wasn’t cheap!

No 38. Bacio, 15th December 8/10

Bacio gelato. Mike and Ivana weren’t hopeful of us finding ice cream so I was speechless and very excited when we pulled up and parked by the gelato Bacio by accident. Really lovely dark chocolate with hazelnuts in. A traditional Italian flavour which was perfect to try as the snow fell.

No idea how much it cost, I struggled to get used to the money in Serbia.

No 39. Plazma (biscuit) 16th December 8/10

Crna Ovce (Black sheep). Recommended by Ivana’s brother but we didn’t know they would have the traditional Serbian biscuit in ice cream flavour so I had to have that! Amazing how many people were coming into the place especially with it getting colder outside. Great gritty biscuit flavour almost malty.

1.55 Serbia approx £1 8/10 nice size portion

No 40. venecijana, 17th December 9/10

Beli Meda. It’s -4 outside but when there seems to be an ice cream parlour on every corner! We seem to be on an eating holiday! Vanilla, cinnamon, apricot and mango sauce. Amazing!

1.2 Serbian 75p 9/10 Great size and for the price.

No 41. Pumpkin seed, 18th December 8/10

Luff. The first place we tried didn’t sell ice cream in winter, the 2nd had been taken over by Bacio where we’ve already been, 3rd time lucky we found Luff! Pumpkin seed for me and poppyseed strudel for Andy! Both were amazing, just so different and exciting. Mine had a very nut butter texture at times. I was beginning to believe that Belgarde was Europe’s ice cream capital! https://belgradeatnight.com/capital-ice-cream-culture/

1.6 in Serbian about £1, amazing value 9/10

No 42. Banana, 19th December 6/10

Moritz Eis. I checked already and found we’d be able to get ice cream at the airport so I was excited when Mike and Ivana dropped us off and we discovered our gate was A2 where the ice cream would be. We saw a cafe with an ice cream freezer but no available flavours. Luckily we then found a proper ice cream stand but even then only pistachio or banana to choose from. The banana was just like Andy makes it except they’d added an unnecessary sweetener. Really pleased to have had a 5 day run of so many different choices.

2.5 Serbian £2.11 tiny amount, felt like a bit of a con 5/10

No 43. Coconut – dairy free, 21st December 8/10

Roskillys. We were reccying the last section of the Arc of Attrition and I was hungry when the bus dropped us at Hayle. I chose to have a pasty rather than Mr B’s ice cream that I’d seen was open. Needless to say I was delighted when we got to Portreath and The Hub was selling Roskilly ice cream. A quick check of my spread sheet to see we’d not had this dairy before and in we went. Kipper was allowed too. A few choices of mixed flavours but I’d not had coconut before. It was really nice and you wouldn’t realise it was dairy free, lots of bits of coconut in it. Another successful December day.

£2.10 nice amount 7/10

No 44. Lemon curd ripple, 29th December. 10/10

Bradwell’s. The Cottage cafe, Kettlewell. I’ve been so keen to return here so our annual trip to climb up Buckden Pike, the place we had our first kiss, was the perfect time. I’d seen great flavours before so I was delighted when I saw Lemon Curd ripple. It was amazing so lemony. Just perfect. It’s up there as one of my favourite of the challenge so far!

£2.2 9/10 Very nice size portion.

No 45. Mince pie ice cream, 30th December. 9.5/10

Prashad. We went to Prashad for the Christmas menu as our end of year meal out. I’d spotted the mince pie ice cream on the menu so was really excited about trying it. Just the right amount of juicy raisins in it. It was just perfect, nice and creamy.

No 46. Thunder and lighting, 12th January. 9/10

English Lakes. Cafe in Hawes, we were walking past as we were getting sorted for marshalling on the Spine Race. Double jersey, chocolate sauce and cinder toffee, it was amazingly creamy. The cinder toffee just tasted sweet there wasn’t any crunch but it was a fantastic flavour.

£2.00 9/10Nice sized portion.

No 47. Lemon meringue, 19th January. 8/10

Spurreli. Suggested by Claire Knox and perfect timing for our visit to see Duncan and Jo. They took us on a trip to Amble for ice cream and a seaside walk. This was after a hard-earned week of marshalling on the Spine Race, very little sleep and a lot of time on our feet. Funny to have an ice cream parlour open in January as usual. I nearly went for the local berry flavour but the Lemon Meringue was amazing with nice chunks of meringue but the zing of the lemon faded quicker then I hoped.

£2.70 9/10 It was an amazing portion as well, fantastic value.

Posted in Since I met Andy | Leave a comment

147. Spine race 14th to 21st January 2018

  1. The Spine race
    283 out of 5887.07 total miles (average 39.75 miles per marathon)
    8,255 m ascent
    1.6 MPH, 37.29 minute miles
    163 hours 48 minutes

51/54. 7th lady – 1st ever married couple

DNF, 3 letters I was seriously contemplating. I’d even told Andy I didn’t ever want to enter another race over 100 miles, which meant goodbye to the 2019 Hardmoors 200 on my 50th birthday. My feet were crying out with each step on the road diversion into Cowling. Andy was pleased to be off the mud for awhile but my Sauconys had coped well with that. Day 2 was not a happy Spine day for me.

Our Spine journey began last January with a week marshaling. We were hooked on the dedication and enthusiasm of all involved. We entered the 2018 edition and were then both given free places in the volunteers draw! Saving £775 each would help a lot but it still cost us quite a bit in equipment and recce trips. We chatted to a few people such as Sarah Smith, Sarah Fuller, Pete Wilkie, John Vernon and Mark Dalton to gain pearls of wisdom plus borrow some gear. We planned recces and teamed up with Karl and Harriet Shields and Michelle Payne for some of those. We did two full weeks plus several weekends and had nearly completed the whole route twice when 6 weeks pre-race Andy cut through the tendon in his left thumb and needed surgery. It’s amazing what you suddenly realise you need your thumb for such as tying shoelaces and opening zips. We cancelled our second recce of the Cheviots and he needed a thumb splint on it for the whole race!

We gained a lot of valuable information from a Spine training course at Hebden Hey and Stu Westfield’s advanced navigation weekend. We tried to not get too involved with the Facebook ‘discussions’ but appreciated Ian Bowls’ blogs plus others. We put in a lot of preparation but had two last minute panics. Our new and highly recommended Paramo jackets wouldn’t pass kit check as they don’t have taped seams so we’d have to carry another thin jacket and trousers. This meant I also needed a new rucksack as it was all a bit tight. Lucky Wiggle delivered my new OMM 32litre Classic pack within 24 hours, on Thursday, 3 days pre-race.

We’d planned to go by train to Edale but were grateful for the kind lift from Bill Overton as we each had a 20kg drop bag plus our race rucksacks, which we knew with water would be nearer 10kg.

Check in at Edale Village Hall was busy. We got our race numbers then had our kit checked. We both were asked to show three items all random. My guy was actually happy with the Paramo jacket I was wearing till I told him it wouldn’t pass kit check because of the lack of taped seams. He admitted he’d not been fully briefed. I had to show first aid kit and can’t remember the 3rd thing but also had to show that my GPS unit was working. It would take too much time to check every bag but also we were heading back to hotels etc with them so anything could happen then. We had lunch with Bill at the Ramblers and saw Michelle. We went to the race brief and saw a variety of other friendly faces. Then to Stu’s 2 hour pre-race course with information about the route plus food options and weather info. They also gave us pizza and cake. Well worth it!

We got the shuttle up to the YHA but hadn’t realised how out of the village it was. Luckily the YHA shuttle bus driver offered to take us back to the Ramblers to meet the others. I was anxious about how we’d get back. One of the group had just found out he’d booked a room at the Ramblers back in February but had forgotten. He was staying at the YHA and had his kit spread so decided to stay there. He kindly offered us the room at the Ramblers and even took us back to the YHA to get our bags!  Great to be staying just across from the start. Early to bed and early to rise. We had some breakfast with us but still helped ourselves to the continental breakfast.

Our drop bags were weighed to ensure they were under 20kg and trackers were attached to the shoulder straps of our rucksacks. I platted Michelle’s hair although not as well as my friend Jo had done mine. Andy and I sat behind the registration table just to be out of the way. Many commented on how relaxed we looked.

Edale to Hebden Hey CP1. Sunday 14th 08:00 to Monday 15th 00:48, leg time 16 hours 48. 44.88 miles 2,400m ascent

14th 1. In Edale at the 8am start. Spine Race. 14th January. 283.12 out of 304.04 miles 3rd event 2018. 163 hours 51 mins 21 seconds. 7th lady (1) (1)The race started at exactly 8:00am in a field next to the village hall. Many ran but plenty walked up the road and onto the official start of the Pennine Way.  As we headed up to Kinder I started thinking we were at the back as we couldn’t see people behind. There was a small group of us that either overtook each other or dropped back on the climbs and flats of the first section. As we headed up Kinder the first, familiar sharp pains shot along my toes.

It was a lovely day almost too warm for the layers we had on but we strode on. Great conditions under foot and not too much water in Kinder Downfall. Runners came towards us as we headed to Snake Pass, a Fell or orienteering race. Sarah Fuller was at the road crossing as part of the safety team with chocolates, water and a happy greeting.

There was a small diversion round a bog at Bleaklow Head after we headed up Devils Dyke and down to the next reservoir. We knew the route so well which helped our spirits. We tried to eat every few hours and having front pouches attached to our packs made food easily accessible. A tea stop run by mountain rescue at Torside reservoir then up and over Laddow Rocks. Hikers cheered us on as they handed out chocolate.

It was wonderful to see Harriet at Wassenden Head. Dean Clough had been good to us on the climb up to her with very little water underfoot, last year it had been waist deep at times! We enjoyed her hot chocolate, especially the marshmallows. She also had water for everyone. It started to get dark as we headed down to cross the stream and up towards the next lot of reservoirs. We’d done this section in falling snow and dark before so knew what to expect. There was another mountain rescue crew at the road crossing before Standedge so we got a quick drink before heading over towards the M62 road bridge. The burger van was still at the car park but was planning to leave as he’d had to turn people away as they had no small change. The guy who arrived with us offered a credit card! I paid for all 3 of us with a £10 note, making up the extra with canned drinks. I’m surprised that people just didn’t say keep the change or ask him to help out the next person. My fried egg sandwich was perfect to get me over Blackstone Edge Moor towards the White House pub. We could see the lights of headtorchs heading straight across the moor instead of heading down to the drainage ditch that led us to the pub, I just hope they didn’t find any of the disused quarries. Another Mountain Rescue Team had hot water on offer here so we filled up a dehydrated food pack each and we walked along the side of the reservoirs before stopping to eat.

From there we headed to Stoodley Pike and then down the slippery road to Hebden. A runner pointed out the route that cut off the corner, we’d missed the sign. The long slow slog to Hebden Hey didn’t seem as bad, especially the cheeky long down and up between the two roads. The second road came quicker than expected as I could see the street lights from the top road. It was slippy on the final descent to Hebden Hey. We arrived at 00:48. Great to see Andy Worster and Kim Ashworth, from last year plus Kim’s parents, as part of the checkpoint staff. We went straight through to the separate back room. Andy had written out a checkpoint list which we were to follow to ensure we didn’t waste time. I went through all I thought I needed to such as switching food from drop bag to race bag. Getting socks out and change of top and leggings which had got wet in the rain. I was surprised my Paramo hadn’t kept me dry but think the jacket may have and it was sweat underneath, The Paramo legging definitely let the rain in! Not a good so early in the race especially as they were new and I’d nik-washed then properly after they’d been muddy. A quick look down the checklist and I went back to the main building with my stuff to charge kit, wash and sleep. We’d hung up clothes and moved our bags aside. I didn’t shower as I remember how cold it was last time but had a wash and met up with Michelle. Andy and I ate then headed to sleep surprised it had taken an hour to get sorted. We planned to sleep for 2.5 hours giving us 45 minutes to get out the door at 5am which would be 3 hours ahead of the cutoff.

A good if short sleep and breakfast but over an hour to get ready but we were ready to leave by 5:17am!

Hebden Hey to Malham Tarn CP1.5. Monday 16th 05:17 to 21:25:11, leg time 16 hours 8 minutes. 

It was raining when we left the checkpoint. We didn’t decide to put our ponchos on until we were on the moor and then got annoyed with them flapping about and not being able to get to our drink etc as they covered the pack. The track was boggy and easy to follow down to Gorple Lower reservoir and then the road to the next 2. Sharon and Katy walked with us for a bit but I needed to stop alongside Walshaw Dean Lower reservoir to tape my right foot as I thought I was getting a blister. At High Withins we decided to take the ponchos off.

We’d been told there’d be food at Ponden reservoir but there wasn’t any. Someone was coming up from the cafe and it seemed that wasn’t open either. It was a slog over Ickornshaw Moor not helped by the stream crossing that initially looked too deep and fast flowing to get over easily. We checked upstream then decided to try crossing where the path came down to as there were submerged flagstones which were visible on the other side. I got across fine but Andy missed a step and one foot got a dunking and his knee length waterproof sock got a bit wet inside. But that wasn’t as tough as the road diversion down to Cowling. My feet weren’t happy and I started to get into a really low place hence the aforementioned thoughts of DNF-ing. How could my feet cope with the pain of another 200 miles! How could I drop out of a race again because of painful feet, this was not going to happen. I started to think about Sarah Fuller’s wisdom of having a ‘why’ for these low moments. I’m usually so positive and it’s that that gets me through. I searched my mind for something a bit more concrete and came up with I wanted that pint of beer at the end. I’ve only had a few mouthfuls of alcohol in the past 7 years as I just fall asleep so there’s no point in drinking. On reflection I’d not had that sharp toe pain since we reached the top of Kinder and knew my feet hurt less on soil than tarmac so there was hope!

We were back to muddy fields after Cowling which frustrated Andy with his lack of grip but we were soon at Lothersdale. The promised food at the pub had blown away the day before (too windy for their planned BBQ) but they provided hot water and drinks. I added hot water and brown sauce to the rest of my rehydrated macaroni cheese from yesterday which worked really well. We met a few people here such as Colin Green, a soggy Michelle and Sharon with Katy arrived later. It’s amazing how quickly an hour can go but we both did foot checks and sock changing before heading on. Andy’s damp foot was fine. There were more muddy fields as we headed to Thornton-in-Craven and the canal to East Marton. My mood had lifted nicely with the food stop but soon soured as we took the next long road diversion into Gargrave. We had enough food so didn’t bother with the Co-op but sheltered in a covered alleyway, sitting on a bin that Andy turned on its side. We added hot chocolate powder to my flask of hot water and I ate a cheese and onion pasty.

I felt much brighter as we headed into the night. I was pleased to remember the route, with my map in hand, crossing fields and getting us to the next road diversion. In Airton someone asked us if we were taking the road as it was easier! Just before Malham in Hanlith, a family welcomed us with bananas, Christmas cake and tea to take away. They’d been enjoying watching peoples progress online. In Malham, we headed to the ladies toilet at the visitor’s centre and made up some food and let it hydrate whilst we tried to get a 20 minute sleep. Two guys with the same plan came in as we were preparing to leave.

As we headed towards Malham Cove a guy who’d missed the turn joined us hoping we’d guide him for a bit but we lost him on the steps. We were soon at the back of the limestone pavements and up the slippery trail towards the tarn. Checkpoint 1.5 was in a small room across from the main Field Centre. We got warm drinks and said we intended to get over Fountains Fell and Pen-y-Ghent before sleeping. It didn’t sound like the weather was going to improve over the tops.

Malham Tarn to Hawes CP2. Arrived 13:27:27 Tuesday 16th. Leg time 16:02:16. Total miles from Hebden Hey 67.63 miles, 3,336m ascent.

The climb over Fountains Fell went really well. Hail was battering our faces initially so on went the googles. There were more climb sections than I remembered so it was reassuring when Andy checked the GPS as to how far it was to the top. Coming down was a slippery mess and needed caution so it wasn’t as quick a descent as we wanted. We’d already been told that the top of Pen-y-Ghent was too icy so we’d be taking the route down to Horton from the gate before the steep climb. We could hear the wind howling on the other side of the wall so I shouldn’t have been so surprised at how hard it was to open the gate! They’ve done work on the path down adding slabs in places which I needed to avoid as they were so slippy but Andy’s New Balance Hiero’s were fine on them. He’d then struggle on the less manicured sections in between although there was a gravel path at times. We ended up having to climb down a few sections not knowing if there was a path around or not on the rocky outcrops. At last, we reached Horton in Ribblesdale and the Pen Y Ghent cafe that stays open all night during The Spine. Guy remembered us from when I bought my jacket there. I’d been dreaming of beans on toast to go with my big mug of tea. People were sleeping so we got ourselves set up after eating. 90 minutes later we’d slept well and knew it would be getting light soon, Michelle arrived with Alan Cormack who we’d seen her with a few times. He seemed to be good at motivating her. It sounded like they’d had an epic trip over Fountains Fell, we’d timed our trip well.

Fried egg sandwiches and tea each and we headed back out on the trail. We had a good journey up towards the Cam High Road. Refreshed from the sleep and food. I was pleased to stop Ben Light making the same mistake we’d made during a recce of missing the turn off the trail at an unsigned gate. It’s a long slog up the Cam High Road but we kept pushing with the wind behind us. We had a mug of tea in a flask and this was perfect just before turn off onto the West Cam Road. We’d bought extra chocolate bars at the cafe but I ended up giving mine to Andy Bristow who was struggling, sadly he dropped out at Hawes.

The weather on the West Cam Road was awful. Really strong winds pushing us sideways but gushing at us instead of being constant which was tiring. Hail whipped up around us too. It was really hard work but settled as we came down the other side and onto the diversion of the Cam Road which was a real ankle twisting rough track. Photographers greeted us just before the roads that lead us through Gaye and into Hawes and the YHA checkpoint.

Great to see familiar faces. A great drying room was next to the entrance area so we took shoes off then put everything we needed straight in to dry. I’m pleased we had our shoe numbers on elastic instead of using the tags they give you as they really stood out on the shoe rack. We sorted through our drop bags, got food and were allocated a room. We were lucky as it was a twin room, I jokingly called it the honeymoon suite. I was surprised to find out it was ensuite luckily before I headed out to the bathroom. Lots of hot water, I felt stuck under it. It was a shame to sleep during the day but we both needed it.

Hawes to Middleton CP3. Tuesday 16th 17:15 to Wednesday 17th 12:44:47,  9 hours to Tan Hill Inn (arrived 02:15:17), 3 hours at the Tann Hill Inn. 7 hours 28 to Middleton. Leg length 34.94 miles, 2,029m ascent. 

I had a blister on my right big toe and felt the ball of that foot needed good protection. The medical team is made up of a variety of medics. Maddie is a student nurse and was already making her mark with the way she taped toes which seemed to be working well. She taped that with the K tape we’d bought. Last year the medics were running out of tape hence us buying some. She popped the blister on the big toe and added padding before the tape. She also protected both my 2nd long toes as the zinc oxide tape I’d applied soon came off. I ate my porridge and had tea as she worked. We were out the door by 5:15pm. We were trying to increase the time ahead of cut off allowing almost 3 hours now.

It was starting to get dark and was by the time we were across the river. We passed the finish area of the Challenger and headed up Great Shunner Fell. We were just behind Michelle, Alan and another guy and leapfrogged each other a few times. The weather deteriorated as we climbed higher. Visibility was poor due to the dark but the path was hidden by the fresh snowfall and wind that pushed the snow over any tracks ahead. We soon had goggles on. Andy was amazing, he navigated us over the top with his GPS. Initially, we thought we’d stay with Michelle’s group and take our turns in route making and finding but we’d caught another guy, Dima Feinhaus, and the three of us were faster so headed on. The snow covering the slabs meant they weren’t icy and we kept going without needing yak tracks. Andy soon confirmed we reached the top and were heading down. Lights to our right we knew were Thwaite but we headed away before turning back towards. It was a long descent but we were quick, I was surprised to see we’d averaged 2.5 miles an hour for that section.

We paused briefly in Thwaite then started the undulating climb around the side of the hill on the way to Keld. I was surprised at how steep the slope was, I’d not really been aware of it in daylight but now in the snow, it felt a little more perilous. We sat on a bench in Keld for hot chocolate before going out onto the exposed moor and snow storm for the climb to the Tan Hill Inn. Again the GPS was very useful as we got higher with no clear path to guide us. We wiggled around a bit either trying to find the path or an area not too deep to walk in. We found two other runners who were struggling with the route finding too.

Such an amazing welcome at the Tan Hill Inn, we arrived at 2:15 am. A support team were manning it as it was shut to the public now, those arriving during the day could order off the menu. We were given amazing thick tomato soup and hot drinks. We decided to sleep as we were making good progress. The breakfast room was already full of sleepers so we went into the very cold concert room and slept on the stage. I was soon warm in my bivi and sleeping bag. So pleased we had the mat and sleeping bag all rolled in together for ease of setting up. We slept for 90 minutes and I was jealous of the guy who had opted for another hour but knew we needed to keep moving.

We filled a sachet of dehydrated food with hot water and packed up before eating. Michelle had arrived just as we got up, she was feeling really cold and in need of sleep. The medics withdrew her from the race as she felt too shattered and cold to continue. Dima joined us as we left the pub. The snow was really deep as we followed tracks before Andy and the GPS got us on the right route. Ivan caught us and tried to overtake but wasn’t as good at route finding as Andy. He stayed with us and chatted until we were on the road then trotted off. We next saw him sat by the tunnel of the A66. It had been straightforward getting there helped by the sunlight. I told him about the walkers’ shelter which was my next goal for a hot chocolate stop. We didn’t stop long, Dima caught us up and left before us but we passed him and only saw him briefly again before Middleton. Our shoes and gaiters were getting frozen up from the snow and ice. I hadn’t closed mine properly and ice balls were building on the laces making your feet heavier. We bashed them from time to time with our poles.

The route by the reservoirs was fine but that final climb before we dropped into Middleton seemed to go on a long long time. We arrived at 12:44pm, we were both really pleased with this time as we’d hoped to get here for midday when we left Hawes but hadn’t planned on having time for that bonus sleep. As usual we worked quickly at getting ready to eat then sleep, sadly there was no hot water for a shower so I washed instead. Kim’s parents (Helen & John) were here again which was lovely. I got quite choked up when I saw the encouragement on Facebook. A photo Anne-Marie had taken of us was copied to LBT and Pudsey Pacers.

We slept a few hours and then breakfasted.

Middleton to Alston CP4. Wednesday 17th 17:23 to 20:30, 8 miles then race suspended and taken back to Middleton

Thursday 18th 06:00:00 to 03:57:21. 22 hours. 44.73 miles. 2,045m ascent.

17:23 we headed out again, this time with Alan. He’d worked hard to get to Middleton after Michelle dropped out. We made excellent pace along the good track at the side of the river. Ahead we could see a red light and I wondered if the safety team were out with hot drinks at Saur Hill bridge before we headed across the open moor section. It was the safety team but with bad news. The race was to be suspended and we were being taken back to Middleton, it was only 20:30. They had made the decision to suspend the race just half an hour after we left. We walked up to the main road and Kim’s parents took us back to the checkpoint.

We’d managed 8 miles in the 3 hours. We ate when we got back then went to bed. Andy had put our sleeping bags straight onto bunks to ensure we got beds. I was in bed by 21:30 and Andy was a little later. The room was warm and sleeping on plastic mattresses isn’t easy but I did sleep.

We were woken at 04:30 and told the race was to restart at 6am. We also had an extension of 4 hours on the next few checkpoints but the times for Byrness and the finish wouldn’t change. It was harder to get going again after the long sleep, even harder knowing we had to redo those 8 miles. The checkpoint staff were amazing, they just kept bringing out bowls of porridge and plates of scrambled eggs and toast.

There was about 19 of us in the checkpoint and we started just after the lead few but soon caught up. Fresh snow had fallen over our lovely trail meaning whoever was in front had to bash out the new route. Some were better than others, Andy got a good pace going out front, helped by knowing where we needed to go especially after we recrossed the river and were heading along the river towards Cauldron Snout. The rocky sections here were as hard as ever but we were glad to have put the poles away.

Alan Cormack – Near Windy Bank Farm.

We drank our hot chocolate at the top of the Snout, I was worried I was running low on water but my second bottle hadn’t frozen so I was fine. The going was good along the road here. A quad bike appeared at one point and it seemed to have come most of the way from High Cup Nick along our route as we were able to follow the tracks although chose to stay on the lower path after the bridge but soon went up a level and followed the track. Much easier going underfoot rather than the knee-high snow around us. From the top of High Cup Nick we dithered working out which track to follow but ended up heading downhill on a good track. A lot of people were chatting and we knew this was slowing our progress so we pushed on and were surprised to see how far behind people were. We got to Dufton and straight to the checkpoint for 15:26. We knew we had 30 minutes maximum here. Within minutes Robin Kingsbergen and Sharon Sullivan appeared. We were given hot tea and water for our dehydrated food. We’d both gone for the 1000cal macaroni cheese and were delighted they had some brown sauce we could use.

Sharon and Robin were out the door just before us but we caught them at the turnoff to the Pennine Way as they went too far down the road. It wasn’t far along the boggy march that the medic caught us up to say that there would be blizzards over Cross Fell tonight and it was taking people on average 10 hours to get to Alston. We needed to stay in groups of 4 minimum. We had 12 hours before the cut off so headed on together. We knew we had an hour until it was dark so headed up as quickly as we could. Andy again took the lead on the main slope up to Knock Old Man. At times he had footprints to follow but in the main he was making the path through the snow, up to our knees at the most. We were all impressed each time he found a way marker and we knew the GPS was guiding him well. As we reached the stone marking Knock Old Man the next group of five arrived.

We expressed the need to stay in our teams just so we were looking after each other. Sharon then Robin tried to navigate us for a while as Andy swapped gloves and thought the magnet was making us go round in circles. He took over but shared it with Robin especially as we reached the thin poles that marked the edge of the flagstones. At the road the others overtook us and there was some confusion as to whether they were taking the bridleway or Pennine way. We decided we’d be safer following the road up to Great Dubb Fell despite it being longer. I added another layer when we got to a less windswept area. I’d tried the goggles but visibility was poor, luckily the wind was coming from the side so the hood kept it away from my eyes.

We took turns to break the trail, with Andy behind guiding us with the GPS. It seemed to take awhile before we were on the top of Cross Fell. We found the trig point but the shelter was covered in snow. We kept moving getting off the other side and down to the corpse road. This wasn’t easy to follow either due to the snow hiding it, or being too deep to walk in. Lights ahead at the gate which was the medic from the hut and then a short distance to Gregs Hut. What a welcome! Chilli noodles and hot drinks. The other group arrived as we were packing up and one of the guys said something about the cut off at Alston being changed to 7am but we hadn’t been told this officially.

We headed off with Andy and Robin taking turns to find the route. The other group soon caught us and needed some persuasion to take their turn in breaking and finding the trail. It wasn’t long after this that the snow reduced and it was easier going. The two groups dispersed and we overtook some as others overtook us. We had a quick chat with Sharon and pushed on.

Through the street of Garrigill a lady was offering to put the kettle on but we knew we were only a few miles to Alston so pushed on. We started to follow others and it was only when I saw lights high above us that I realised we’d missed the riverside turn. I clanged my sticks together which got the attention of the people in front. It was a good flat path but mostly single file. A guy overtook us but soon dropped behind us when he realised we knew where we were going although Phil Clarke pointed out our error of taking a lower path at one point. I was very aware of the time getting closer to the 4am cut off and knew we still had a few miles to go although my GPS watch seemed to have added a mile on so I was pleased when we reached the wooded path that I knew led to Alston and it’s YHA. 03:57:21 was the time we arrived, the photographer greeted us by names. At the door we were told of the twist in events. It seems that any of us who did the extra 8 miles from Middleton had been given an extra 4 hours to complete the event which included a new cut off in Alston of 10am instead of 4am. There were 6 of us left in the race with the extended cut-offs. Sadly for Robin and Sharon because they’d not done those extra miles they were told they could continue but couldn’t come into checkpoint! They were given their drop bags and offered food but they had to find a public toilet in town to sleep. They were naturally upset and we felt odd being allowed in.

Andy and I were in separate dorms but allowed ourselves 2 hours sleep so we could get out the door 2 hours ahead of our new cutoff.

Alston to Bellingham CP5. Friday 19th 08:11 to Saturday 20th 01:00:14.  16 hours 45. 39.12 miles. 1,882m ascent.

I had my feet tapped again but mostly as a precaution than any change as I still only had the two blisters. Andy was loving how everyone said his feet were great. I had porridge and scrambled eggs on toast.

We left at 8:11am knowing Sharon and Robin were already on the trail about an hour ahead. It was a slightly drizzly day but good going underfoot as we followed Issac Tea Trail and headed towards Hadrian’s Wall. As we turned off the road in Slaggyford a lady called our names and offered us cups of tea ready to drink. She even had toasted cheese sandwiches! She was enjoying watching the race and coming out to support everyone.

The only hard part was the section over Hartleyburn to Blenkinsopp Commons because of the bog, it really was draining on the energy levels. As we headed down to the A69 we could see Sharon and Robin ahead and caught them up at Hadrian’s Wall.

We told them about the cafe ahead but hadn’t realised it was shut until Spring but at least there was a covered area and table next to the open toilets.  We filled our rehydration meals with water from one of our flasks but Andy got his jet boil out to heat water for the others. I changed my socks as they were soaked through. There were photographers from racing snakes who seemed to enjoy taking photos of my steaming socks.

At the pace we were going we knew we could reach Bellingham by midnight and we were happy to head into the dark with Robin and Sharon again. Snow fell on the last few sections of the Wall and the light bounced of the flakes from my head torch luckily all I had to do was follow the Wall at our side. Andy took over the navigation after the Wall. At times there were paths to follow but other times it was hard to find. We stayed together and kept checking on the person behind to ensure they weren’t dropping back. Sharon and Robin were both struggling with their limited sleep and were grateful for her caffeine tablets and our hot chocolate. I ended up needing the caffeine too but wasn’t sure if it was because I was running short of water. I’d drunk more along the wall than I expected to, I guess I got warm pushing the pace on the undulations. I thought as I’d only drunk a bottle to get there I’d be fine with one to Bellingham so had used my spare rather than topping up. I think it was knowing we were close to Horneystead Farm rather than the caffeine that spurred me on. I was delighted to see Helen (not Kim’s mum!) there as I’d just said we would need to be quiet as it was 22:15. She made us hot drinks and allowed us to take the food we wanted but wouldn’t accept any money, although agreed to a £1 each. Sharon slept the 20 minutes we stopped there. We all had more energy as we headed on to Bellingham. I was so pleased to get there just after 1am. We talked to the others about their plans to make the most of the checkpoint. All Sharon wanted to do was sleep, I warned her how cold the main sleeping room would be.

They now have a kitchen at Bellingham! We were so surprised to see it was attached to the side of the room we’d set up last year with a microwave etc. They’d also removed the pool table so the room seemed much bigger. Having so few people behind us meant we could leave our stuff by our bags. Maddie was there but it seemed I just needed the padding re doing not the toe-tapping, any of the medics would look at them so she went for her break. It was great to see Kevin McCann at last, he and Colin Green came out to walk us in. Poor Colin had broken a rib early on and dropped out not long after we saw him at Lothersdale. He was now helping out for the rest of the week.

Bellingham to Kirk Yetholme. Saturday 20th 05:47am to Sunday 21st 03:48am. 22 hours. 43.82 miles. 1982m of ascent. 

It was really cold in the sleeping room, especially when you rolled over. My alarm went off at 04:15 and I struggled to get going. Again I ate as my feet were tapped. We had a full kit check and were out of the door at 05:47 a little later than planned but great to know we were racing into the sunshine. Photographers met us with a bright light as we approached the B6320 and with a drone at the start of the forestry road. The going was great underfoot with only a few places of deeper snow otherwise the trail was nicely dug through the snow. The road was the same as vehicles had driven along the full length to Byrness. I began to struggle again in the last few miles to Byrness, I stopped for hot chocolate and put music on to sing along to. We arrived at Byrness at midday which was the cut off time for Sharon and Robin, they had left 30 minutes or so before us. I was shattered so got a meal out and my bottles and let Andy fill them as I lay on the sofa to try to sleep. He woke me after 20 minutes and I was prepared to pack up and eat outside the checkpoint knowing we had 30 minutes maximum at the checkpoint.20th Byrness midday Kevin McCann

It was a steep, warm climb out of Bryness. I opened all my vents and used snow to cool me down. It was stunning across the tops and we had a great path to follow. Andy doubled checked the GPS as the route was further away from the fence than I remembered but we were spot on. It was also deeper snow further down. We followed the fence until the sign pointed us east to the Roman Fort. We’d seen Robin and Sharon ahead and slowly caught them up just before Hut 1. The light was fading and we were pleased to get there by 17:00, 10 more miles done.20th Hut 1, 1700. Montaine spine race

We’d been told the huts were empty but found two safety crew there. They gave us hot drinks and noddles. I had planned to sleep there just for 30 minutes but felt more awake so we didn’t. One of the guys asked if we were sticking together and Robin answered yes but they were quicker out of the door and up the hill than us. I was fine initially on this 10 mile section but struggled on the hill up to the final turn back to Hut 2. I was having to work really hard at staying awake. I’d had coffee in Byrness and Hut 1. I made a strong coffee in my flask but that didn’t help either. I tried to drink and eat plenty but nothing helped. Andy suggested I counted to 800 but didn’t get past 300 when we reached the turn and a downhill section, where the path to The Cheviot starts. Robin and Sharon were resting there so we headed to Hut 2 with them. It was great to slide down some of the hills on my bottom but not all were steep or smooth enough. I went ahead with Robin although he powered up the hill. Andy stayed behind with Sharon.

There was support at Hut 2 as well. They gave us hot water for our dehydrated meal. I tucked it inside my jacket and lay down to sleep, I was covered in a sleeping bag and woken after an hour. Sharon and Robin had already left along with Dima. We were warned it could take 5 hours to get down so Andy wanted to make sure we allowed enough time to get there before 8am. It actually took under 3 hours and was an amazing feeling to walk up that final hill knowing it wasn’t far to the finish. We walked hand in hand over the green and up to the wall of the Border Hotel. Race done! Kevin was there to give us our medals. Harriet had woken Karl who’d only come in 12 hours ahead of us due to hours breaking through fresh snow on the Cheviots. We’d been very lucky.

So I had a few sips of that beer. Harriet got me hot chocolate. We soaked our feet, sorted gear and showered. I slept on the sofa in reception until Duncan and Jo (Andy’s brother & sister- in- law) came for us. They only live an hour from Kirk Yetholm and would have been waiting at the finish if we’d kept to the original estimated time and not gone so fast.

We spent the rest of the day with Duncan and Jo, sleeping and eating. My feet were really swollen so I was pleased to have size 10 spare shoes in my bag. Luckily Duncan was driving to ours later in the week so we only needed our race rucksacks for the train journey home Monday.

Thoughts and feelings now it’s post race. 

I’m so glad we’ve done it, especially in a year with so much snow. It felt like a true Spine race. Great to be the first married couple but also part of the Middleton 6 that did extra miles! No, I won’t be back except to marshal again! Marshalling last year and our recces made a big difference to how the race went and I really enjoyed the whole process. It’s been an amazing few weeks since the race, we’ve both felt like royalty as people congratulate us.  We’ve been amazed by how many people were watching our dots especially people we don’t really know.

With thanks to Mark Haywood, Anne-Marie Lord, John Bamber, Drew Wilson, Kevin McCann, the official photographers such as racing snakes and a few others for the photos.

Kit

Paramo Ventura jacket and Cascada II trousers were perfect, especially with the Sea to Summit Sil Nano poncho. The trousers seemed to leak at the zips though which I’m not so happy with but the zips going down from the top meant a great way to cool off. I wore my Halley mountain cap from GO most of the race with hoods up as needed for extra warmth. Very rarely needed my buff.

The FORCLAZ BLACK TREK 500 MOUNTAIN TREKKING FINGERLESS GLOVES were great except the magnet would have interfered with the compass had we needed to use it. I had thin merino gloves underneath them. I had warmer gloves too but only ever used the Extremities waterproof outers. These had elastic straps on which I’d slip over my wrists to prevent losing them.

I as warm enough with the Brynje Super Thermo string vest with technical top over it and normal run bra. I had a thin fleece for coming off the hills.

Thermal leggings throughout.

Injini socks with either dexshell or sealskin socks two pairs were knee length but I can’t say they were very waterproof but kept my feet warm. Changed at each checkpoint plus one other change.

Saucony mens Kea ST size 11 shoes (thanks to Tony and Shelli at Lets Run) were great except on the slippy icy slabs that Andy breezed over in New balance Hierro. 2 sizes up worked well for me.

I’m glad I bought the larger OMM classic 32 rucksack. I had no choice when we realised we had to carry tapped seams waterproofs but it made it easy to get things in and out. We had our goggles and yak tracks in the back mesh easy to get too plus the Zojirushi flash which meant we didn’t have to stop to boil hot water and the hot chocolate made a real difference. I had first aid kit in the top along with dehydrated food and long spork to prevent the need for going into the main pack. I really used my front pouch that Sarah Fuller lent me. The map section doesn’t really work but we could slide our laminated A to Z maps into it for easy access. We also put our poles there when not needed. Inside we had food plus spare batteries and battery charger for our watches. We had the route saved on our watches but they weren’t detailed enough to use instead of the Garmin 64s GPS, borrowed from Sarah Smith. I had my headtorch in one side pocket and spare soft flask for water in the other plus MP3 player. I had a Camelbak Podium Big Chill 750ml Insulated Bottle in a side pocket but lost it. At the front I had a raidlight bottle which was great but the straw froze up a couple of times even with mountain fuel in it. I had insulation around it but it wasn’t enough.

My petzlmyo headtorch seemed to eat the lithium batteries I was happier using the torch Graeme Tiffany lent me.

Even though we didn’t bivvy out at all we used our pre rolled sleep system in two places and it was great to just unroll it blow up the mat and slide in instead of having a variety of bags. Neoair X-Lite mat, Vango F10 Vulcan – 7 sleeping bag inside Sarah Smith’s Rab storm bivvy.

Food was a mix of chia charge bars, tribe and snickers. We had mountain fuel sachets too for added calories.

Us running

Finish video

Andy’s rewordings.

WHY? by Rudyspine Is Kripling

If you can keep your kit when all about are losing theirs and blaming it on you.
If you can navigate when all men doubt you, but make allowance for their doubting too.
If you can trudge and not be tired by trudging,
And being hungry, don’t just eat all the pies,
Or being thirsty don’t just rely on coffee,
And yet don’t look too knackered, nor talk too wise.

If you can dream and not make GPS your master.
If you can think and make Kirk Yetholm [Hardraw] your aim.
If you can meet with Pavel and Eugeni
And treat those two Legends just the same.
If you can bear to see your post on Facebook twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools.
Or watch the plan you trained a year for, broken and stoop and build it up with worn out tools.

If you can make one heap of all your mandatory possessions and forget about the cost.
And get lost, and start again when you get your bearings and never breathe a word about being lost.
If you can force your feet and legs and sinew to serve your turn long after they are gone,
And so hold on when there is nothing in you except the will which says to them: “Move on!”

If you can walk with runners and keep your humour,
Or talk with marshals and thank them all so much.
If neither wind nor freezing rain can hurt you,
If all check points count with you, but none too much;
If you can fill the unforgiving week [weekend] with 268 [108] miles worth of distance run,
Yours is the Pennine Way and everything that’s on it,
And which is more you’ll have broken The Spine,

Well Done!

The Spine Woman
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
by Awindy Noyes

The wind was a torrent of darkness among the gusty trees,
The moon was a ghostly galleon tossed upon cloudy seas.
The trail was a ribbon of limestone over the frozen moor,
And the Spine Woman came running, running, running,
The Spine Woman came running, up to the check point door.

She’d a head torch strapped to her forehead, a frosty buff at her chin.
A coat of the shiny Paramo, and leggings tight to her skin.
They fitted with never a wrinkle, her gaiters were up to the thigh.
And her race number shone with a twinkle,
Her GPS unit a-twinkle,
Her Garmin watch a-twinkle, under the winter sky.

Over the cobbles she clattered and clashed in the dark hostel yard,
And she tapped with her sticks in the doorway, but poles and boots were barred.
She took them off in the boot room, and who should be waiting there,
But the wonderful Check Point Marshals,
Kevin, the finest marshal,
Running place like clockwork with the team he’d gathered there.

And dark in the dark hostel yard the heavy kit bags creaked,
Where the Logistic Team waited; their faces white and peaked;
Their eyes were hollows of madness, they laboured night and day,
But they loved the Spine experience,
The brutal Spine experience,
As they worked they listened, and heard two runners say…

“Some chilli and some sweet tea, I’m after a feed tonight”.
“But I shall get my feet checked and I’ll be gone before the morning light.
Yet, if you leave here sharply, and miss me through the day,
Then look for me in Yetholm,
Watch for me in Yetholm,
I’ll drink with you in Yetholm, though hell should bar the way”.

She sorted her gear in the kit room, new batteries close at hand.
She washed her feet and dried them, no blisters just as planned.
Fresh socks and gloves and leggings and even a new string vest.
And she packed everything just right,
Happy that everything was just right,
She took a few minutes for a quick bite, then headed away for some rest.

One runner did not come in the dawning; he did not come at noon;
And out of the tawny sunset, before the rise of the moon,
When his SOS was triggered out on the frozen moor,
The Safety Team came marching, marching, marching,
The heroic team came marching, and carried him through Greg’s Hut door.

She said few words to the marshals, she drank their tea instead,
But she grabbed her sleeping bag and earplugs and they showed her a nice soft bed.
Two hours passed in a heartbeat, then the alarm rang at her side.
There was darkness at every window;
And hell at each dark window
But she could see from her race plan that this was no place to hide.

Others were in need of attention, the Exile Medics are the best.
They had bound, taped and bandaged ankles, feet and the rest
They treated many a blister and heard one poor man say
“I fell in a stream on the first night,
Up to my neck before midnight,
Cold to my core since that first night, I hate the Pennine Way!”

She threw on her backpack behind her, the familiar weight felt good.
She strapped on her boots, poles and gaiters, as quick as she possibly could.
She stretched as she’d trained in the darkness, and the hours would crawl by like years,
But now, on the stroke of midnight,
Cold, on the stroke of midnight,
The tip of one foot touched it! The trail again was hers!

The tip of one foot touched it; she vowed she’d do her best.
Up, she stood up to attention, her heart thumped in her chest.
She would not risk DNF’ing; she would strive on through the pain;
For the trail lay bare in her torchlight;
Blank and bare in her torchlight;
And the blood of her veins in the moonlight throbbed to The Spine’s refrain .

Step step, step step. Would she make it? Would she be beaten by doubt or fear?
Step step, step step. What’s the distance? Was the finish getting near?
Down the ribbon of limestone, over the brow of the hill,
The Spine Woman came running, running, running.
The runner looked to her training. Her head up, straight and still.

Step step, in the frosty silence! Step step, in the echoing night!
Nearer she came and nearer! Her face was like a light!
Her eyes grew wide for a moment; she drew one large deep breath,
The climb from Byrness in her torchlight,
Steep and sharp in her torchlight,
Up she climbed in the moonlight, only a marathon left!

She turned, she spurred to the west; finish she knew that she would.
She bowed head to the weather. The conviction was deep in her blood.
Since the last dawn she’d believed it, her mind grew bright and clear.
How much the race had taught her,
This most brutal race had taught her.
She watched for the trail in her torchlight, and ran in the darkness there.

On she spurred like a madman, shrieking a cheer to the sky,
With the long trail winding behind her and her head torch set on high.
Jet black were her tights in the dark of the moon; wine-red was her Paramo coat,
When she ran down the hill to the highway,
Down off the fell to the highway,
And she ran like the wind on the highway, with the frosty buff at her throat.

And now on this winter’s night we hear, as wind is in the trees,
And the moon is a ghostly galleon tossed upon cloudy seas,
When crowd awake in the moonlight, shouts an encouraging call
The Spine Woman comes running, running, running.
The Spine Woman comes running, to touch the hotel wall.

Over the threshold she chatters and cheers into the bright hotel light;
She taps with her fist on the bar top, and calls for her free half pint;
She downs it in one with some gusto, and who should be waiting there?
But her family and friends who love her,
There to show that they love her,
Proudly she celebrates with them, and everyone gathered there.

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146. Hardmoors 30.

Wait a wonderful way to start the New Year. A clear day and great condition. A little slippy in places but I was so pleased by my new saucony shoes as they gripped the mud plus the rocks!

We had Bill with us from the pacers plus Paul from LBT was doing the 15. Bill disappeared from the start as I struggled watching everyone over taking me. I kept remembering what happened last year and it’s basically what happened again. I overtook a lot of people on the muddy coastal path especially the hills. I caught Bill up after 2 hours but moved on knowing he’d overtake me again on the cinder track. We ended up getting back to Robin Hoods Bay together. I waited for Bill to ensure he knew how to get back to the Cinder track and let him run on.

A steady climb to Ravenscar and it was lovely to see Andy and Kipper walking back from there. He’d decided not to do the 15. Hot chocolate from Harriet and Karl and on down to Hayburn Wyke.

I enjoyed powering past people on the climbs of the coast but was surprised how quickly I caught Bill up again. He was really struggling with the mud. I thought he’d catch me at some of the road sections so pushed on. More hot chocolate at Ravenscar.

It was a good feeling to be heading down to the coast but I knew there were s few hills with steps before the final climb up to Robin Hood Bay. I slowed on that climb letting a few people go by hoping I’d see Bill soon as he’d been behind me a few times. Andy encouraged me to finish and came in with Bill a few minutes later. He was very pleased but had struggled with his knees and the uneven motion.

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Recce No7. Cowling to Gargrave. 4 hours

We drove to Keighley then got the bus to Cowling arriving by 10. The driver dropped us at the path by the pub. I remember a Facebook post saying it was hard to get out of Cowling. There weren’t many signs and the path looks like a drive way. Kipper was round my waist as Andy was recovering from a cold and still needs to protect his thumb.

Over the fields then down a lane o remember the road sign bring past the turn off. It was very wet under foot the day was drier than I expected initially but rained for most of it. I thought we had hail near Thornton but that didn’t last.

There were a few times my instincts were right but after East Martin I really wasn’t sure. Both GPS’s went flat I tried mostly to use my map rather than watch. Missing fences didn’t help navigation as we got closer to Gargrave. Hopefully we’ll remember that.

A guy on our bus talked about an all night drink station at Gargrave. That will be nice if true. He wanted to know when we’d be passing through!

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