197. Hardmoors 26.2 Farndale trail marathon. 9th Aug 26

Hardmoors 26.2 Farndale trail marathon. 28.91 miles, 7:42:48, 1,418m of climb, 16.00 minute miling. 86th of 99. 35th lady. 11th in age. 73rd marathon, 196th marathon and ultra combined.

Hot, humid and hilly. For the first time ever I struggled to take any fuel on for the 2nd half and could easily have dropped out. Andy was as strong as ever and kept me going. It’ll be a long time before I reach that 3,000th mile!

Good to celebrate with an ice cream at the finish.

Thanks to the amazing marshals as always. Great to see so many friends. Time to rest and refuel

Hardmoors 3000 from Andy

Sarah & I recently completed the Hardmoors Farndale Marathon, through 29 miles of glorious scenery in the heart of the North York Moors. At the end of the run I had completed a total of 3,000 miles, across multiple Hardmoors events.

The Hardmoors Team organises seven ultras and six marathons annually, mostly based in the Moors and along or connecting with the Cleveland Way National Trail. Each marathon event also includes half-marathon and 10k options. Every route features extra miles and hills – just for fun. They have a wonderful community and runners often compete in multiple events; there’s even a league for anyone who completes all the marathons or ultras. Completing 1,000 miles earns you a reserved race number and a place in the 1000 Mile Club, 2,000 miles gets you into the Hall of Fame, and reaching 3,000 makes you a Hardmoors Legend.

My first Hardmoors race ended with a DNF! Back in September 2011, I attempted the Hardmoors 60 along the coastal path from Saltburn to Filey. I made it as far as Ravenscar (30 miles) before exhaustion set in and I decided to drop out. In hindsight, I recovered quickly and likely could have finished, but I had very little endurance running experience at the time. Sarah, however, completed the race and was first lady. Note. You have to complete the event for your miles to count towards the 1,000 Mile Club.

2012 was a much better year, kicking off with the Hardmoors 30 on New Year’s Day. I went on to complete the ultra Grand Slam: with the 55 in March, the 110 in May, and the 60 in September, finishing second overall in the men’s league. This was back when the calendar featured only four ultras and before they added marathon series.

The Hardmoors 55 (Guisborough to Helmsley) is probably my favourite of all the races. In 2013 it had snowed really heavily before the start (we couldn’t even get my car off the drive) and it continued to snow throughout the race. Our water froze and navigation was difficult as the landscape looked very different. Runners formed small groups to support each other, especially after dark. Despite the challenging conditions, there was a near 100% completion rate. It’s still one of my proudest finishes. The 55 also went ahead during The Beast for the East in 2018, although we were marshalling in a nice warm village hall that year.

The marathons are all testing but always in beautiful, less frequented parts of the Moors. The routes have been adapted over the years and varying weather conditions & fitness levels have made them all feel unique. I remember a particularly wet & windy Saltburn Marathon that comes up in conversations that start with “Were you there in 2017”. I was in good form that day and the RD said I was the only one to finish with a smile on their face. Our favourite marathon course is probably Roseberry Topping, which used to take place in early December. The weather was often mild, with the landscape dusted in snow. The route climbs up and over Roseberry Topping before doubling back over again, for a total of 30 miles. We even have a floor-to-ceiling picture of the landmark in our living room.

My most significant event, however, was the Hardmoors 160 in May 2015, a large circuit of the Moors running from Scarborough to Helmsley, then following the full Cleveland Way to Filey. It remains the longest non-stop race we’ve completed (161.5 miles in 46 hours and 52 minutes), the event where we both joined the 1,000 Mile Club, and the day Sarah finished second lady on her birthday. But none of that compares to the highlight: I proposed to Sarah in front of our friends at the presentation ceremony, and she said yes!

Timeline

• First event – Jan 2012
• 1000 Mile Club – May 2015
• 2000 Mile Hall of Fame – May 2019
• 3000 Mile Legend – Aug 2026 – 74 events over 14.5 years

196. Hardwolds 40. 27th June 2026.

Hardwolds 40. 46.96 miles, 12:41:20, 1,465 m of climb, 16.13 minute miling. 50th of 83 finishers, 107 started. 3rd in age. 124th ultra, 196th marathon.

Hardwolds 40! Almost 47 miles with 1,465 m of climb from Beverley to Malton across the Yorkshire Wolds yesterday. A gorgeous day out just a tad warm. We led from the start but let nearly everyone slide past us on the Hudson Way old railway line. I knew the first 7 miles of flat were going to be hard work but loved the undulations of the Wolds Way once we were on the route properly. As usual I make sure I’ve eaten a bar or equivalent and sip at a 500ml bottle of electrolytes, coke or orange squash every hour as I know I’ll eat and drink less as the race goes on. It’s lovely returning to a route I know so well but couldn’t always quite remember the order of each section. Blue skies, green fields full of crops and rolling wolds with a few sheep and lots of lazy cows sheltering under trees.

From Millington at 18 miles we walked. Andy struggling with knowing what to eat or drink and our lack of running any distance since the race in Japan was starting to show. It was a lovely day for a long walk. We did a lot of yo-yoing with others.

The garage at Fridaythorpe 26 miles must have done a great trade. We queued to buy treats. An ice cream for me. Fruit and a drink for Andy. I didn’t need the ice pop at the checkpoint.

At Thixendale hall at 30 miles I had an excellent feed of pizza and cold rice pudding and drank plenty which meant I didn’t rush out like last year and run out of fluid and need to beg from crews out on the course although around half way I did fill up my bottle from a lovely person crewing, thank you.

We were both calculating that we could finish before dark if we kept up the 3 miles an hour we’d slowed to. As we approached Settrington Beacon at 39.5 miles Andy suggested I go ahead and enjoy getting some running done. He was happy to keep going at his pace. We rarely walk side by side chatting and we were too tired to do so anyway.

It’s downhill or flat all the way to the finish except for a slight push up from the river in Malton to the finish. I chatted briefly to those I caught up but kept my pace going to the finish. Although I’d filled a bottle at the beacon it wasn’t enough and seeing a runner coming out of a corner shop I was tempted but I was less than a mile to the finish. A great feeling to get there in 12:41:20. 2 hours slower than last year!

A big drink, moved the van to near the end of the ramp from the Leasure centre and brought in our shower gear. Andy sent a message saying he was caught by a train at the level crossing! He had less than a mile to go. I hoped to be out of the shower when he arrived but I just missed him! 13:08:20 so he’d not hung around after I left him. Great to have a cheese toasty and be home before it was fully dark. Very sad it’s the last 40 but looking forward to being back on the Moors.

Lazy day today with a celebration lunch at Prashad spending my birthday vouchers. Funny how we both decided we wanted a sharing platter each with a Chaat and Gujiwari Naan to share. Amazing food as always.

Will we stay awake during Tinker, Taylor, Soldier, Spy our film night choice? Hopefully the chocolate will motivate me.

Japan 28th April to 20th May 2026

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28th Tuesday April. Day 1. 10:05 Leeds to 12:15 Amsterdam.  13:45 AMS to 10:25 Tokyo. 

Sri picked us up at 7 and other than having to return for my glasses minutes later we were at Leeds Bradford airport early to join the long queue through bag check. My bag had to go through xray twice due to dodgy looking apples! Large coffees and our egg mayo wraps then the windy route through to the new wing. Quick hop to Amsterdam. Coconut macaroon and coffee. 

Straight forward through Amsterdam to board the main flight. Initial panic that the entertainment system wasn’t working but then it sprang to life. I watched A Complete Unknown with our curry then had a snooze. They brought round sandwiches halfway through the night. I watched The Rental Family based in Tokyo before another snooze. Breakfast with Friends as all the films were too long. We arrived about half an hour early.  

29th Wednesday April. Day 2. Tokyo. Trains Shinjuku to Okutama. Bus Nishi-Tokyo to Higashi-Nippara. 

Very efficient through customs with our passports, QR Code for Immigration clearance and Customs declaration, finger prints and photo taken and checked twice. We were out in no time and getting our reserved train tickets printed for the next few days plus train tickets through to Okutama for today. The train was cleaned before we were allowed on and we headed into the heart of Tokyo. I’d seen what I presume are rice fields out of the plane window plus a lot of trees as we came into land and we passed a lot more paddy fields on the 90 minute journey to Tokyo centre. 

We’re totally spoilt so far with everyone speaking English and all signs being in English too. We’d hoped to nip out of the station at Shinjuku for ice cream but our tickets wouldn’t let us. Andy put his in a ticket machine hoping it would give us options but it gave him a different ticket. We asked in the information centre and they said our tickets weren’t valid for us to leave and we’ll have to buy a new ticket for Andy when we arrive in Okutama. We bought lunch a bento box for Andy and a salad with rice, beans and soya for me. 

There wasn’t much information on the platform for which train to get and usually in Japan you rely on the promptness of the trains but ours was 5 minutes late. An hour to Ome through the suburbs on a London Underground style train. From Ome up into the tree covered hills for 50 minutes to Okutama with a little bit of rain. I bought a bottle of unsweetened roasted green tea from one of many vending machines on the platform. It was quite refreshing. 

Andy’s printed off the names of our key destinations in English and Japanese so we can just point to where we want to go.  We did this across the road at the bus station and they showed us where to get the bus and their departure time matched Andy’s research. We had 50 minutes so walked down towards the river passing an ice cream shop. Japanese horseradish or wasabi flavoured made on the spot in a Mr Whippy style machine. I’ve no idea of the details of any branding so I’m just calling it Okutama kitchens own brand. It had a kick which seemed to grow but was never overpowering and perfectly created. 

We crossed the Tama river on a high bridge with lovely views down. There looks to be lots of hiking trails around here. The thing there’s not much of is bins. We still had the packaging from lunch. No bins on the trains or at the stations or in the streets. The ice cream shop just had a couple for cans and bottles. We asked at the visitor centre and she said take it home. We found a bin bag at the public toilets!

At the bus the driver was concerned that we were going to the caves but they’re shut. A lass who spoke English helped out translating and turns out she and friend are staying at the same place as us. It was a narrow road, on the side of the steep hill with passing places and one long stretch with a person at each end managing the traffic flow. 

Nenenbou Lodge is an eco lodge, they call themselves ‘Tokyo’s last hidden gem’ away from the bustle of the city. It’s very peaceful and our room has the low chairs to sit on with tea in the middle of the room. We made our beds which are mats on the floor with duvets and then showered. I thought about sleeping but we got organised for tomorrow. When we arrived at 16:30 it was 25 hours since we’d left home. We’re in a gorgeous setting in a steep sided valley with so many very tall trees. 

We’d had to take our outdoor shoes off when we arrived and put on their slippers on the wooden flours then it’s socks on the mat flooring in our room. When you go to the toilet you change to a different set of slippers. We were told at reception about their hot baths women could use them until 19:30 and men afterwards. They’re not hot springs so I decided not to investigate. 

Tea was at 6. A range of different bowls of veg with tasty sauces on or in a bowl to dip in and a bowl of tofu soup. All lovely although a couple of the jelly like pieces didn’t taste of anything. Food is included and they thought we were vegan as we’d asked for vegetarian but no fish sauce. 

We were both shattered so although it was only 18:40 we went to bed. 

The toilets are crazy. Heated seated, play sounds to hide any noises you make and will shower you down below if needed!

30th Thursday. Day 3. Bus, train, bus, hike. 9.6 miles. 1,380 m of climb around Mt Mitake. 

Breakfast was a pot of warm vegetables in a tomato sauce. We had a plate with lettuce and tomato on and jam toasted sandwiches. An unusual but filling tasty start to the day. It was drizzling outside as we walked to the bus stop, the bus was 2 minutes late! A few buildings tucked on hill sides as there’s not much flat ground around. Very misty and atmospheric. Train to Ome. Very full bus to the Mt Mitake cable car station. 

We followed the single tarmac zigzaging track up to Mitakesan. Very tall wide ancient trees edged the path but beside those were much narrower Japanese cedar trees. We could hear the jangle of bear bells of other hikers above us. We saw one statue on a corner as we climbed and the funicular railway steeply climbing up. That was the only sound we heard, no bird call. Luckily the rain had stopped. 

There were plenty of maps to guide us through the village to Shukubo Komadori-Sanso our accommodation for the night. It’s been a pilgrim lodge that’s been operating since the late 1700s. We were met by a staff member and she reserved a bath time for us before dinner at 18:30. In the village we stopped for coffee but ordered food. The waiter was very patient as she explained most of the food had meat stock in it so I ordered a pudding. My poor legs will hopefully get used to sitting crossed legged at the low tables. There were options for western seating. Andy ordered spicy noodle curry. I had Anmitsu. A traditional Japanese dessert bowl featuring cubes of agar-agar jelly, sweetened red bean paste, and fruit, all drizzled with a dark sugar syrup. It was delicious, luckily I have a sweet tooth. 

We walked up the many steep steps to Musashi Mitake Shinto Shrine.  Graves either side and stone animals holding up benches. It’s been a holy site for a long time and has shrines to lots of animals but mostly the Japanese wolf god. It’s traditional to bring your dog here for blessings which we could see happening. Various ornate buildings and a few people bowing their heads or clapping. 

We headed back down some of the steps and off towards the rock garden walk. A quick look past the helipad at the viewpoint then steeply down to the Nanayo waterfall. Well maintained tracks with lots of roots to climb over in places. 

Up steep ladders to the sacred Tengu rock. Andy spotted a rope ladder up to look at the statues of an ‘long nosed goblin’ and tiny shrine. 

Back to the track through the rock garden, zigzagging over the little stream. Very mossy and tree covered, lots of signs warning to ‘watch your head’ due to potential rock falls and low branches. Past Ayahiro waterfall and then we took the side path up to Mt Otake at 1,265m. We met an English couple who warned us there were no views but a choir sang for them! We met the choir as they carefully descended but not singing. We also saw a trail runner speedily negotiating the rock and root covered trail. At the top we were rewarded with views of the next ridge line and low clouds beneath. Later people asked us if we’d seen Mt Fuji but we couldn’t. 

We’d seen a sign that said 50 minutes back to Mt Mitake on the way up and missed it going back down but retraced our steps to take it rather than going through the rock garden again. We took the options to bypass the next 2 peaks as we were both tired. We’d done just under 10 miles and 1,380 m of ascent by the time we got back to our accommodation. We had to complete a registration form but both struggled with cold hands. It was 16:30 and she advised us there was a hot tub available. She gave us robes, yukata a casual kimono to wear around the accommodation, luckily in the room there instructions on how to wear these. Left side over right as the other way is how they dress the dead!

Andy grabbed us both coffees and we unpacked a little then went for the cedar wood private bath. Nice that it was just us as they expect you to keep the water clean by showering first then being naked, I guess as even clean swim wear will have soap on it. A continuous flow of hot water came in from one side with a plug hole in the middle to keep the water level constant. We both did stretches in the warmth trying to release tight hips. Neither of us managed an hour. Good to be able to sit and shower and wash my hair as I was a touch light headed. 

A bit more packing then tea. They explained how to eat the food as all the food in the tray was the starter then they brought various additions for the main course and explained the puddings. Andy tried the meat option and found the egg custard pudding very strange as it had mushrooms and pork in it. My meal was vegan so a lot of vegetables and tofu. Really tasty. We had roasted green tea with the meal. Amazing food. 

The English couple were staying there too. Their son has married a Japanese lady so they’re here to meet their latest grandchild. 

We’ve arranged to go to the morning service at the shrine. One of the staff members gave us a written instruction form in English so we know what to expect and do but also said just follow what everyone else does. She wrote our names in Japanese so that the priest could bless us.

I was shattered so happy to go back to the room and get organised for the morning as we’d need to be up at 6:15 then won’t have long after the morning worship before breakfast and our onward journey. Bed by 20:30.

1st May, Friday. Day 4. Musashi Mitake Shrine morning worship. Cable car, bus, trains and hike 2.24 miles to Kamikōchi. Rain all day. 

It poured all night and I regretted drinking coffee and green tea last night as I felt I tossed and turned all night and so did Andy. It was nice to have a warm toilet seat when I paid a visit over night!

Andy got coffee as I got dressed. I put the aircon on to warm the room for when we get back. We luckily have our waterproof trousers with us as it was still pouring down. We’d been advised to leave to the accommodation at 6:30 to walk up to the shrine but it only took 10 minutes. The priest took our name slip and 2,000 Yen about £5 each. We were shown to a waiting room and then taken under the complex to the main prayer room. There was just us two no one to follow so that we knew what to do! He banged the large drum a few times then moved to a side shrine to pray for peace, safety, bountiful harvests and the nations prosperity. We bowed our heads when the priest did and watched him move to an inner room to present offerings to the gods. We followed him through to the inner room to make our wishes and clap twice before returning to the main room and the drum was banged again.  The service only took about 10 minutes, we’d been told to expect 30 but I guess there was only us to pray for. It was wonderful to see the process and the ornate rooms. 

Back for coffee. Hopefully our coats will dry a little in our room. Breakfast Japanese style. Lots of tofu and vegetables for me. We’d finished by 8:15 so headed for the 8:40 cable car which was single track until the middle where we passed the ascending car. Straight on the bus. Still pouring!

09:14 Train with a stop at Ome to Tachikawa. We asked about changing to an earlier train from here but they said it was full. 

We went in search of an ice cream place but struggled initially as Google maps couldn’t explain how to get to the lower floor of the department store. Japanese Black Tea & Cherry Chocolate. Very creamy chocolate ice cream I could really taste the cherry and there were pieces of cherry too. Possibly a hint of tea. 

Back for coffee and onto the 11:22 Azusa 17 train to Matsumoto for a 2 hour journey. Very comfy train journey with space around our airline seats. Built up areas most of the way with agriculture in places and sections of trees but too misty to see far. 

Andy had found out where we could ask about changing to an earlier bus for our final leg of the day so we nipped across from the train to the bus station. Everywhere so far has had the bus and train stations close by. He cancelled our reserved bus as I bought the earlier bus tickets. Back to the station where we found a French bakery selling Japanese pastries so bought a few. Luckily I could photo the description and check the QR code in google photos to make sure it was vegetarian. Some yummy bean paste donuts and tea breads. 

We got tickets for the 14:08 30 minute train to Shin-shimashina. We’ve got so used to swipe on swipe off for local journeys with our Suica cards, that we were advised to buy on our phones so going to a ticket machine seemed strange but there was an English option. I’ve been enjoying looking on Google maps to see where we are in Japan as today’s journey zigzags east then west and northwest. The rain had stopped but low cloud remains. 

We didn’t need to panic as there was plenty of space on the 14:50 bus. We sat at the front for the 55 minute journey.  Dam after dam as we climbed higher up the Azusa river valley. Low cloud hid most of the views but snow covered mountains peaked out at times. Quite steep sided valleys so we went through several tunnels. We came out of one and heavy rain greeted us. We’d planned to get off at Taisho Pond to enjoy the scenery as we walk to our accommodation. We thought about just going all the way to Kamikōchi but we’d still get soaked on the short walk to the lodge. On with the waterproofs for the 2.24 miles low level walk along the lake initially then river. Hard to see much due to the low cloud but lots of others were out walking with bear bells and umbrellas. Much shorter and wide spaced trees here so there was plenty of bushy undergrowth. A few puddles but our shoes stayed mostly dry. We followed the river Azusa to Nishi-Itoya Mountain Lodge we didn’t realise it was one big complex with 2 entrances so went in the smaller place but were walked through to the main lodge. Lovely room for the 2 of us with a toilet included, the heated seat takes awhile to warm up as it’s activated when you sit down! Showers were in the public baths, separate baths for men and women. I didn’t bathe not wanting to get too warm again but enjoyed my shower. 

I had some green tea before we went for tea but then stuck to water with the meal. We were given a menu this time so we could see what we were eating. Also a card explaining the Bagna Cauda which is the pot they light to warm up the vegetables. We need to wait until it steams then eat so have the starters first. Today’s steamed vegetables were with a nice creamy white sauce. So many different courses were brought out it’s hard to photo a complete meal. Interesting flavours especially the final pudding. Blueberry and Soba Oyaki. The soba was the same texture as noodles but in a ball and inside was walnut paste. I said final pudding as there was a savoury egg custard with mushrooms in it tasted like a pudding! Took 50 minutes to eat it all! Chop sticks certainly slow you down.  

We checked out hiking options for tomorrow, snow is forecast for overnight but probably higher up. It shouldn’t rain tomorrow. We can also borrow a bear bell. 

2nd May Saturday, day 5. Kamikōchi, Dakesawa path and back via Myojin and Tashirobashii bridges. 10.73 miles, 686 m of climb. Bus to Takayama. 

A stormy night but a much better sleep and then I woke to the sound of bear bells as hikers walked along the river side path outside our window. Andy got us coffee after our 7:30 alarm and we were called to breakfast just before 8. Another amazing spread of food and a menu but only in Japanese but Google kindly translated it for me. 

We packed and checked out by 9:30. We’d asked about borrowing a bear bell but were told it’s so busy they doubted there’d be any bear sightings. 

What a difference a day makes with wall to wall sunshine. Andy had worked out a route into the heart of the Japanese Alps which took us up to the snow line towards the Dakesawa hut. There was streams of people heading around the Kappa bridge the heart of Kamikōchi. We followed the path passing the Kappa-bashii bridge and onto the Dakesawa marshes. Crossing the very clear water on the boardwalks. Most people were turning right continuing along the river but we took the narrow side track heading steeply up towards Dakesawa hut at 2,170m. A rocky and root covered track but well maintained with wooden steps and boardwalks as needed. Short wide spaced trees with green vegetation beneath. We followed a stream initially then zigzagged higher. We said we’d get to the snow line but soon reached a patch of soft snow so walked across it and kept going. Amazing views around of steep sided snow topped mountains in a ring above us. Below was the river with lower mountains beyond. 

The walking was tough, my breathing laboured but then we had started at 1,500m, Ben Nevis is 1,345m! It really was worth it. The trees dropped snow on us at times before they thinned out to give clear views all around. The snow beneath our feet became continuous but we kept going to 2,016 meters. We decided it was probably wise to head back down as we didn’t have the grippiest of shoes on and there were icy sections. 

We passed quite a few people going in both directions. Some were laden with heavy mountaineering bags. We were very under dressed in our shorts and T-shirts compared to everyone else but we were warm. We carried plenty of layers just in case. It was chilly at times in the shade but then we’d soon be warmed by the sunshine. 

Back to the valley bottom where we followed the crowds to Myojin Bridge further up stream. Near the bridge was the Myojin pond complete with shrine. We paid 500 ¥ each to walk by the pond with its lovely views of the mountains beyond. 

Back on route, over the Myojin bridge and back towards Kamikōchi. A monkey walked across the road in front of us and climbed up the slope. We could see another on the beach. 

Back into Kamikōchi and down to the bus station to find out about our next journey. We bought tickets but couldn’t reserve a bus slot for the half hourly service. There were already long queues. We continued down the river back to Tashirobashii, the bridge we’d crossed in the rain yesterday. We decided not to head all the way back to Taisho Pond where we’d got off the bus yesterday but back round to our lodge. Andy found the spot he’d taken a photo from yesterday and took one in the sunshine to compare. 

We walked past our lodge to the food area. The famous Kamikōchi soft serve apple ice cream shop had a long queue. I joined it and Andy walked back for our bags. We both wanted to try their famous Shinshu apple pie. I got cold quickly even after changing my sweaty T-shirt. I still enjoyed the ice cream even though it was a cheat as it was apple sauce on the soft serve ice cream, it’s still going on the list as it was lovely. Great cold apple pie too. 

We queued for 30 minutes to get on the 15:30 bus but it seemed to be just a continuous stream of buses pulling up and filling, we ended up leaving at 15:41. When all the seats were filled more people got on as there are pull down seats from the arm rests to give a seat in the aisle, no standing! There were quite a few stops on the way to Hirayu and Andy wondered what would happen if you were sat at the back. 25 minutes non stop journey initially following yesterdays route but we soon turned off. Several long tunnels and into the green hilled countryside. Andy has looked up what to do in Hirayu as we might have a 35 minute break between buses. There was a short walk or views but it’s really just a big car park as you can’t drive into Kamikōchi. I joined the queue for the next bus as Andy explored and returned with yummy wasabi flour crackers. Again a very full bus. Lovely scenery for the hours drive to Takayama. 

Strange to be in a city! As we walked to our apartment we spotted a place you could learn Japanese archery so we stopped to give it a go. I was dreadful struggling just to load the bow let alone fire it anywhere. Andy successfully hit my target but at least he could hit the wall by the target. As we left I re read the sign and we were using Hankyu bows the half size!

We explored a little of the old Edo streets plus enjoyed the crazy Tenaga Statue on the Kaji Bridge.

We picked up some tea including some interesting breads on the way. We’re in an Airbnb so it’s nice to cook for ourselves and do some washing. There’s a mezzanine sleeping floor above a basic living area, just perfect. And relax!!!

3rd Sunday May. Day 6. Exploring Takayama. Shrines, food, Folk Village and festival floats. 

A lazy start to the day with a rough plan made we walked through the streets past a grand building which turned out to be a library. We walked past the Takayama Betsuin Shoren-ji Buddhist Temple so wandered round the complex. A large gateway initially then massive bell tower to the side. We walked up the steps to the main temple and looked through the doors at the ornate prayer area. 

In through the main shopping street with lots of places to buy food. People were queuing for particular places but not everywhere. The area is famous for its Hida beef. We bought fruit covered in icing thinking we were getting 4 chunks on sticks but we were given a ‘food crawl’ bowl instead, a tasty but over priced treat. We’d read it’s impolite to walk and eat in Japan but here and into the Miyagawa Morning Markets it seems to be encouraged. The markets are along the river side and a must do place to explore. There were lots of covered little stalls selling various meat products. 

We tried the warabi-mochi, it’s a traditional Japanese, jelly-like confection made from bracken starch (warabiko), a soft, translucent, and slightly chewy texture. There were 3 flavours Matcha, Kamakura and black sesame. Really interesting. 

There was also Miso to sample but with fish broth. Various other things to sample like ginger and mushrooms. 

We crossed the river and weaved through the streets towards the bus station and spotted a little window selling Mitarashi dango. 5 rice dumplings skewered, dipped in soy sauce and fired. They were very sticky but lovely, so unusual. 

Soon after we passed somewhere selling Mont Blanc cake to take away. Mont Blanc is sponge cake base topped with whipped cream and a signature “mountain” of chestnut paste piped in thin, spaghetti-like strands on top. Subtle taste of chestnut but very nice.  We shared one. 

We passed a square with the same odd statues as we’d seen on the bridge yesterday and the city emblem of the Takayama city. There were statues on many streets and a few cardboard frames with outfits painted on for you to stick your head through for photos. 

At the bus station Andy nipped to the toilet as I looked for a timetable, I called out to him as one was just about to leave but we missed it. We had 45 minutes wait so walked to the nearby Hida Kokubun-ji Hindu Temple. Interesting statues outside, some looked modern like the Sarubobo ‘baby monkey’ image. A large bell tower next to a 1,200 year old ginkgo tree and a Three Storied Pagoda. Andy gave 100¥ at the main temple and pulled out a stick from a tube which he then had to get a slip of paper out of a drawer with the corresponding number on which told his fortune. It didn’t quite make sense, something about having lots of children! 

We got the local bus to the Hida no Sato Folk Village Museum. A lovely Edo era, between 1603 and 1868, outdoor village. Houses have been brought together from this region, the Hida area. Some roofs were made of chestnut wood to withstand the heavy snow falls others were thatched. Fascinating going inside the houses which often were 3 or 4 stories high with slatted floors. Each building had a story of who had lived there or showed historical things such as a traditional wedding, silk growing and weaving and a display of sledges. Lots of the displays were translated into English. We had to take our shoes off to go in most buildings. There was a large bell and a shrine as well as rice fields. We also could watch woodcarving and lacquer ware painting at work.  Very interesting. Looking across the city of Takayama were the snow topped mountains of yesterday’s Alps. We thought of going up to the old castle above the village but rain was threatening so the views were closing in. 

Back to town and up to Takayama Castle Ruins. We seemed to miss the main site although followed the signs but some google reviews have quite a few pictures of ruins and all we found was a large platform. We got good views of the mountains again but other views were obscured by trees. A Japanese guy in excellent English talked about his hiking trips in Spain. 

I’d spotted the Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan, the festival float exhibition hall shut at 16:30 so we headed there as it was 4pm and spitting. Excellent display of the colourful 9m high floats that twice a year are paraded round the town and have been for the last 350 years. All were intricately decorated in lacquer work and carvings. Statues of the Festival guards wearing kamishimo stood between the 5 displayed floats.  We watched a video showing them moving, all lit up with lanterns. Turning corners is difficult as the wheels are fixed so they lower a small wheel and lift up the main wheels to turn. They are really heavy so need a lot of people to move them especially those with bands on! Most of the floats are housed around town in large storage area, information plaques outside describe each. 

We had a quick look round the Sakurayamahachimangu Haiden Shinto shrine next door but people were praying. We headed back to the centre but stopped for a Matcha cream cheese and red bean muffin and carrot cake. With hot Chai and lemonade. Our timing was perfect as it poured down. 

My goal was Sake ice cream but it was shut when we got to the Harada Brewery. We paid £2.50 each for sake tasting instead and tried 4 different ones in the tiny cups they gave us. The place was filling up as the queue for the fridge got longer. We were both concerned we’d get tipsy on empty stomachs so bought some wasabi edamame beans. The sake didn’t taste of much so the wasabi didn’t interfere. I don’t think it was very strong as I didn’t feel drunk at all. 

Through the rain we walked to Loop for ice cream. Roasted green tea for me, black sesame for Andy. Both were strong flavours I could tell mine was the same as the tea I’ve had to drink. Food shopping for tea although we ended up back where we started yesterday. Back to eat, get warm and plan tomorrow. An excellent and informative day.

4th May Monday. Day 7. Greenery day.  Takayama bus to Hida-furukawa and train back. Trains 14:46 Takayama to Nagoya 17:05. Nagoya 17:40 to Nakatsugawa  18:30. 

Up at 8, breakfasted, packed and out by 8:50.  We couldn’t work out the automated check out process so Andy sent them a message to say we’d left. 

At the train station we paid 900¥ to store our bags. Andy checked out train tickets but the next few trains were full. Just when we thought everything was going so smoothly we’d not thought to buy our train tickets yesterday. 

Today is Greenery Day (Midori no Hi) a national holiday so it’s busy. It’s a national holiday dedicated to appreciating nature and being grateful for its blessings. We worked out we could get the 11:10 bus 380¥ each for 35 minutes to Hida-furukawa and get the 13:12 train back 1,930¥ and 15 minutes. The train confused me as the times on the timetable weren’t in chronological order so we thought the last train we could get back was 12:10! We have onwards tickets at 14:46. 

We walked back into town and bought sake ice cream from the Harada Brewery. Creamy soft serve ice cream with a hint of sake. Very nice, they warned it contained alcohol. Andy tried the miso at a near by shop and we walked down through the busy old town streets to the market. We bought Mitarashi dango (5 rice dumplings) as we walked towards the Owara Tamaten sweet shop, marshmallow like sweets made with agar not gelatine. Tasty sweet treat. We took samples of rice crackers as we walked towards a massive archway we’d seen a few times by the river side. It was at the end of the street leading up to the Sakurayamahachimangu Haiden temple by the float museum. As we continued to the bus station we could hear music down a side street. Musicians played flutes and one banged a big drum as 4 dragons danced in front of a house. Each dragon was made of 2 people the one at the front controlled the dragon head as it weaved up and down and snapped the jaw open and shut. They were wearing green and had a blanket of green draped over them. Wonderful to watch. As they walked on we rounded a corner to find another group. This time the head half was raised up onto the shoulders of the back dragon as part of the dance. The nearest dragon came over and wrapped themselves round me and pretended to bite my head, Andy took photos. They performed a little more then offered to take a photo with us both in. One of they guys said I’ll be more intelligent now I’ve been bitten by a dragon.  

I loved a statue with 4 faces Joy, Anger, Melancholy, Fun. 

No one was queuing for the bus but we got there 30 minutes before it was due to leave as we’d been told we couldn’t reserve seats. There were plenty of spaces in the end. We’d had a glorious start to the day but it rained as we headed out of town. 

Hida-furukawa was a sleepy town with not many people wandering around. We had a rough idea of where to walk and wanted to see the carp in the Setogawa Canal which we found next to the pretty Enkō-ji, Buddhist Temple of Perfect Light. Andy bought fish food and the carp hungrily fought over each chunk but they were all quite big fish. 

We sampled and bought miso biscuits from a window vendor on the way to the wide Miyagawa River where the Araki river joined it and the start of a riverside walk with Buddist temples on. 

Both the Shinsō-ji and Honkō-ji (Temple of True Light) were grand but quite simple outside. Always with a bell tower. We couldn’t go inside any and they weren’t open for seeing inside. Andy had peeked through the windows of the first temple which was very ornately decorated in gold inside. 

A statue of a big Buddha was at the end of the walk. We crossed the road and next to a large school found the Masushima Castle ruins with a shrine on top.  Very basic. With a cute dragon statue by the entrance and red flags all the way up the stairs. 

We walked back to the train station following the canal, feeding the carp as we went. Little bridges crossed the canal to the doorways of the houses beyond. 

We caught the 13:12 train back to Takayama and realised the reason we wouldn’t have had enough time to make the connection if we’d got the next train was the trains from Hida-furukawa go through to Nagoya so we would have been on our train already but needed to get off and get our bags. It makes sense to me. 

We had over an hour in Takayama before our train so found a cafe near the station for coffee and lunch. We’d hoped for something more Japanese but just went for the simple option of falafels for me and potato wedges with cake for Andy. 

It was straight forward getting our bags and onto the train. We have reserved seats and on the platforms they tell you where your car will stop. Lots of people were queuing to get in our car and knowing our seats were down the other end we cheekily got onto the next carriage. 

2 girls next to us turned their double seats round to face their friends. Such a great thing to be able to do. 

The train journey was lovely following the wide Hida River valley. Various shades of green trees cover the hills either side, plenty of tunnels of either trees or through the hills. Towns dotted along sometimes with the traditional Japanese style sloping roofs but often western style and usually with paddy fields close to the railway line. Our train pulled into Gifu station then headed out backwards. The people in the seat in front of us had gotten off so I turned their seat round to face ours and we switched across. 

At Nagoya we had 35 minutes until our next train. We headed down to the underpass but then realised our train leaves from the platform opposite so went back up!  They only seem to sell reserved seating or enough seats so people aren’t standing. Our train was 10 minutes late leaving so the sun was setting nicely as we pulled into Nakatsugawa. A 10 minute walk to Meet Tree to check in and double check plans for leaving our bags which will transported to our next accommodation. Then we couldn’t get into our apartment initially as we were given the wrong code but then it just seemed to time out. Luckily it wasn’t cold or raining. 

We’re in a hostel with a tiny private room just enough space for a double futon and shower room. The toilet is next door and shared. 

We got in and rearranged our bags ready to drop off at Meet Tree. We’d found a place on the HappyCow app that did vegan food close by. We doubled checked where our morning bus stop is and found Shoya Nakatsugawa. Sadly a couple of the vegan meals were sold out but they could do noodles and vegetables without pork. Andy had pork gyozas (dumplings) and Japanese fried chicken. We shared Natto seaweed tempura and pickled celery. I also got rice flour dumplings and ice cream for pudding. 

Andy spotted a local delicacy called ‘morning coffee’ where the cafe sells you a coffee and give up a basic breakfast with it. We had a quick look to see if we could spot any but will get up and see what we find tomorrow.

5th May Tuesday, day 8. Nakasendo Trail. 20-minute bus from Nakatsugawa Station to Magome-juku. Magome to Nojiri via the Nenoue Pass, 16.75 miles, 6 hours 15. 1,000 m of climb. Train to Kiso-Fukushima. 

Andy got us hot water to make coffee with our coffee bags in our room. We headed down to the bus station looking for a coffee shop and found one by the train station. We asked for coffee and it came with nuts. I pointed to the menu which said ‘morning set’ and we got a thick wedge of buttered toast, a cold hard boiled egg and small bowl of yogurt with banana and apricot. Perfect. It cost the same as just the coffee. A gorgeous sunny day. A group of runners gathered at the train station and set off. 

The bus to Magome soon filled and someone came round asking for the fare 800¥ each rather than pay when you get off. You’re meant to take a ticket when you get on which has that stop number on. There’s a screen at the front of the bus that tells you how much your journey is as it gets to each stop so you pay as you get off. Very clever. I guess there was a lot of us so paying now was quickest. 

The Nakasendo was a 17th-century inland highway connecting Edo (old Tokyo) and Kyoto, serving as a vital link for feudal lords and royal processions through Japan’s mountainous interior. It featured 69 post towns, many of which remain preserved today as historical cultural sites showcasing Edo-period architecture.

There were good views from the bus stop down the valley of paddy fields and the croak of frogs. We crossed the road to the old cobbled street through the heart of the restored post town of Magome, along with everyone else and we slowly crawled up the street passing people. Lots of touristy shops to look in plus museums and shrines. We stopped for chestnut ice cream. Again soft serve and lovely but just a hint of flavour. We are only carrying light bags with clothes for this evening as our main bags will be taken to tomorrow nights accomodation in Matsumoto.

At the top was a view point looking out over the town and hills beyond. From here we followed the Nakasendo as it weaved across roads and bridges but was mostly on a mix of tarmac path or the road and cobbles through tall trees with statues and carved stones dotted along the way. There were a couple of runners on the trail but the majority were walkers. Lots of places to rest in the shade plus toilets and bear bells to ring, all very well prepared for tourists. 

There was a side garden route that had a sign welcoming everyone saying they took ‘no responsibility for your disappointment’. Some very strange statues and oddly placed items such as a garden table and chair set in a pond! Then we were back in the main trail. 

A local was selling bottles of water and cooling them in the running water of the stream by the track. 

Lots of steps on the first 2 miles to Magome pass at 796 m, we’d started at 580m, and then a much rougher track down through the trees with a stream below us. The track was still quite busy mostly heading the same direction as us. 

At 2.5 miles was a tea house, Andy spotted they gave out free tea. There was a traditional fire burning on the raised platform. So we sat for a drink and used their facilities. I don’t think I’ll ever get used to warm seats in public toilet’s especially in the middle of the woods. The water you wash your hands with always seems to be cold!

A massive cypress tree on one side. Sections of tall bamboo plus new shoots twisting up. On and down to Tsumago, 5.3 miles of easy walking. This is the main part people walk. It was busy as we got into Tsumago and I overheard someone talking about an eggplant steamed rice bun being nice. We were stood by the shop so I asked the guy if it was definitely vegetarian and he suggested I talk to their guide. 4 of the 5 buns were vegetarian so I asked for one of each, 250¥ each. Creamed chestnut, red bean paste, aubergine and seaweed. We shared the red bean paste one and it was delicious. We walked through town and out beyond and were alone on the trail. 

The route was still very well signposted and had toilets at times too. There was a lot more tarmac than I’d hoped for but a good mix of paths. Through trees with steep slopes down to streams, or at the side of agricultural land mostly rice fields and a mix of tree rooted paths, gravel, cobbled or mud. Sometimes well maintained with wooden walkways and steps. At times we had wonderful views but often just the trail ahead between the trees. It’s such a lovely route. 

Nagiso the next town had been our plan for lunch but we were happy with our steamed buns and were able to fill up with water so we followed the signposted route rather than dip down to the main town. 

We only saw 2 other couples walking the route and a small group when we got close to the Nenoue Pass at 842m. From the pass we’d hoped to go to the next train station along the valley but we couldn’t find the trail so followed the main route down to Nojiri. Luckily 2 sections were paths following the stream down hill rather than the road but the last 2km were on the road into town. 

We knew we had 90 minutes before our train. Everywhere looked closed but we found a small cafe Donguri Coffee Shop and ordered red bean paste toasties and egg on toast, again it was the thick slab of bread that we’d had a breakfast. Beer for Andy and mango juice for me. Just perfect. The lady gave us both a rice triangle shaped painted wooden block that she had just made, they sell them  there. 

We were at the train station in plenty of time and Andy got us a number 6 ticket as we boarded so we can pay when we reach Kiso-Fukushima. A lovely ride along the Kiso valley with wide river. 

On the walk to our Ryokan accommodation was the free hot water Public Footbath so we took our shoes off and soaked our feet and ankles. It was lovely. We were overlooking the river too such a great place. 

We checked in and were shown across the road to the annex as we’re not staying in the posh place this time. Lovely sized room with a bed on legs not a futon! Andy went over for the Onsen hot bath. There’s indoor and outdoor but they don’t like tattoos at this place so I showered and relaxed in the room. 

The Ryokan receptionist suggested Aki-chan close by as somewhere we could get vegetarian food. The English menu was basic and most things seemed to have meat. A guy sat next to us with excellent English helped but was confused as to what a vegetarian eats thinking I could eat fish. He suggested some baked mushroom, aubergine and peppers also tempura ginger with rice. I’d already ordered edamame beans. Andy had miso soup and noodles.  Lovely food. The experience enhanced by the help we’d received. Another guy shared his tempura winter vegetable with us. Really lovely food.  

In the reception of the main Ryokan there’s a traditional Japanese iron teakettle complete with fire pit. We stopped for hot drinks just to try it out and the receptionist told us the chewy sweets were Bamboo and walnut (Japanese dumpling). Very nice. 

Bed time. 

6th May  Wednesday. Day 9. Train to Yabuhara. Yabuhara to Niekawa 11 miles, 422m of ascent, 4 hours 10. Over the Torii Pass & Ontake Jinja and Narai-juku town. Train to Matsumoto

We decided to switch trail shoes today. The pair Andy’s been wearing has more grip but less cushioning than the ones I’ve had on. We walked through the small old town of Kiso and called into the Kanemaru Bakery for trail food, coffee milk bread and a cheese roll. Up to a cafe opposite the station for ‘morning set’ breakfast no yogurt today. The guy who’d helped us with food last night was also eating so we chatted to him. 

8:55 train to Yabuhara. We could see our route on the other side of the railway line, so followed the road down to an underpass. Quite a few from the train were following the route and we were surrounded by dinging bear bells. 

We were soon climbing up towards the Torii pass, the highest point of the whole Nakasendo. A zigzagging track with wide spaced pine trees. A few side paths to a weather station that linked back, but we stayed on the main trail until steep wooden steps led up to the Ontake-jinja Shrine. Lots of decorated stones around the main wooden structure. 

The trees were now old chestnut trees as we walked towards the Torii pass. The actual pass was a side path and not well sign posted but only just off the main track. A couple of large stones commemorated an important King or praise of Mount Ontake which is nearby. 

As we descended there were sections of restored path made with the original stones. We took a side trip to a new rest area up hill with views down to Narai below. We ate our coffee milk bread. A sandwich with sweet coffee cream filling. Very strange. I wondered if there were any bears about who might want a bite. 

We stopped in Narai-juku the old post town for baked dumplings dango and gohei mochi (mashed rice cakes covered in miso, walnut and chestnut pastes) at a road side bar with seats by the window. Lovely watching him making them. 

A slight detour to the Kiso-no-Ohashi Bridge. A wooden arched bridge over the river then back to Matsuya Sabo for a traditional Japanese percolator coffee. Traja brand for Andy. It was a long slow process over a gas burner, stiring the coffee in the glass top and seeing the steam rise up to that then that poured into the bottom bowl. 

Matcha with Japanese cake for me. I had wondered if I made matcha wrong at home but apparently not, I’ve decided it’s not my thing. 

From Narai we were mainly following the road sometimes a side road rather along the busy highway.  A short side trip to Hirasawa Suwa Shrine.  

As we approached towns a couple of times we heard speakers chime out the hour, you could hear it for miles. 

When we got to Niekawa Andy suggested a short detour to see the 1,000 year old Horse Chestnut of Niekawa. It was at the roadside and you could walk round it but we didn’t have time. We arrived at the station 10 minutes before our train so stretched as we waited. We’d done 11 miles. I’m pleased we weren’t doing the full planned 15 if the rest was possibly on tarmac. 

The 13.36 to Matsumoto was full so we had to stand initially. Just a 45 minute ride and our first destination was for ice cream. Brown rice tea but it was green! Turns out in Japan they blend it with green tea and call it genmaicha. It was a strong flavour initially and similar to the previous tea ice cream I’d had. Very nice and creamy. 

There was a man walking a pig and a dog along the Main Street!  Into Matsumoto castle grounds with great views of the main castle and the snow kissed mountains beyond. 1,300¥ each. We were warned it could take 30 minutes before we could enter so we headed straight over to sit on benches, under a shade, where we were moved along as they let people in, a great way of us queuing. 

We were given plastic bags to put our shoes in as we walked floor to floor in the dark open plan castle. Very steep steps up almost like ladders, I was worried I’d slip with just having socks on. One floor possibly as storeroom had a very low ceiling others much higher. Slits for archers or guns and holes to drop stones down on encroaching enemies. Displays of weapons and crockery but mostly empty rooms. Amazing structure very plain walls, it’s over 430 years old. 

We walked round the grounds then the short distance to tabi-shiro our hostel for the night. We have a private room with the traditional futon and they make their own ice cream but all flavours I’ve had! Showers and unpacking, our main bags were waiting for us, then out for tea at Emili as recommended by the receptionist. 

The menu was basic and needed to be as the whole place was tiny just 7 seats up to the bar behind which she had burners, fridges and a range of cooking equipment plus drinks. We explained I was vegetarian and she pointed to the vegetable curry, Andy chose the chicken curry. She gave us tiny cups of potato soup first. A couple who knew her came in and another guy, possibly American, came in and was speaking Japanese with her but asking things in English too especially about vegan restaurants in Tokyo. She fed 4 of us the same adding chicken when needed and it was ages before the 5th guy was fed but they were happily chatting. It was an amazing curry with lots of lentils, chickpeas and grains as well as spring vegetables, very tasty. The American recommended the pudding which was muffins. She took them out of the freezer and put them in the microwave. We shared them a strawberry & almond and a banana. 

We walked back via the lit up castle. Another wonderful day. 

7th May Thursday. Day 10. Daio Wasabi Farm. Cycled 1.69 miles to the farm and 4.5 back. Ice cream and sunset at the castle. 

Andy went out for breakfast getting coffee bags, walnut buns and rice cakes. We sat in the communal area to eat and Andy chatted to a Japanese family and played UNO with them. The kids were delighted despite Andy winning. 

Short walk to the station. A lovely sunny warm day, it got up to 29 degrees. Great views of the mountains around us. A pianist was playing in the entrance hallway as they had yesterday. Tickets to Hotaka 350¥ for the 10:09.  Andy bought a bottle of cold black coffee from a vending machine, it tasted strong but ok not really sweet as I thought it might.  There are vending machines everywhere mostly selling drinks but all sorts of food too. 

Another delayed train! In the little local trains if you get on and off at small stations you pay the driver. They open a blind and take your money when you arrive at the station, on these trains only the front door will open to allow you to get off. 

Such a lovely journey heading towards the snow topped mountains across the flat plain filled with villages and loads of rice paddies in various stages of growth. 

We found bike hire near the station. They are very trusting as you pay when you come back and they took no details from us!  They gave us a map and instructed us how to get to the Daio Wasabi Farm. I felt like we were going gradually downhill the whole time as we weaved through the paddy fields and up and over a bridge. 

This is the largest Wasabi farm in the world and set up for tourists. Waterwheels by the fast flowing river, here 2 rivers merge but flow separately for a while as the qualities of the water in each take a while to fully mix. Large fields of wasabi but covered in black plastic matting to protect from the harsh sun. Approximately 120,000 tonnes of spring water flow through the farm every 24 hours. This water originates from snowmelt in the Northern Alps, surfacing at a constant temperature of about 13°C.

A lovely walk around the site. There’s a shrine and cave in the centre named after Hachimen Daio, a legendary local hero or “giant” believed to have protected the area. Outside the shrine are large straw sandals as an offering hoping for good crops. They named the farm after the hero Daio. 

We stopped for food. I’d seen a menu last night with what looked like a good vegetarian mix of wasabi treats. We joined the seated queue outside. We chose the Shinshu soba noodles with wasabi stems pickled in sweet vinegar, kyarabuki (a traditional Japanese dish of butterbur stems (fuki) simmered in soy sauce, sugar, sake, and mirin until dark brown, sweet, and savory), shiitake mushrooms in a sweet pickle sauce, grated radish, wasabi potato pickled in sake lees and seaweed. We had a little grater and a root of wasabi to grate onto the mix. In the menu in English it also said condiments which meant fish flakes. Luckily everything was in separate bowls and you added what you wanted to the noodles. We both had beer, mine was alcohol free, Andy’s was green but didn’t taste of wasabi. There was roasted brown rice tea to drink. 

We both thought about trying the pudding steamed brothy custard but in the food allergies section it warned it had shrimp in it! We both got wasabi ice creams instead with a lump of grated wasabi on the side of the ice cream. This over powered the main ice cream but it was amazing. We walked round the gift shop buying some wasabi cheese and steamed buns for later. 

We took the longer route back on the bikes along a raised up riverside bank. Still good views of the mountains but also good views of different farming including a fish farm. We’d had the bikes for 3 hours and were back just in time for the 2:10 train. We both really enjoyed the experience. It’s the same wasabi farm that Michael Portillo goes to on his Great Japanese Railway Journeys that are on iPlayer now, episode 5. Thanks Elaine for the TV viewing recommendation. 

Back in town we walked to Nawate Shopping Street, in the old Edo style but they seemed to be very modern gift shops. Named frog street as apparently the locals used frogs to clean up the polluted Metoba River that runs next to it. 

There was a small shrine to walk around but the main aim was today’s new flavour of ice cream. I’d heard you could get miso flavour at Mount Desert Island Ice Cream but they only had Ishii Miso Butterscotch. It was very sweet with maybe a hint of the salty miso flavour.  Lovely ice cream, I do prefer solid to soft serve ice cream. 

For Sundays race we have to have ‘portable toilets’ which are bags you can poo in and then dispose of rather than doing what bears do in the woods. We found one outdoor shop but they’d run out so he rang another shop nearby and they had some in stock. We bought 2 there and  then headed back to the hostel as it was nearly 4 and we were feeling tired. We bought a few treats in 7 Eleven and sat in the communal area drinking green tea and making more plans. 

We often see stone carvings at the side of the road. They’re called Dosojin and are Shinto deities and are considered guardians to ward off evil spirits. This region is famous for them. 

Sunset was 18:40 so we walked to the castle. There was a slight red glow and we walked to find the best place to get good reflections of the mountains and castle. We ended up next to the live webcam so did a bit of Hardmoors advertising online! It wasn’t easy working out how to be on the camera as it was aimed out over the waters edge. 

Back for breakfast bits at the 7 Eleven and some well needed relaxing. 

8th May Friday. Day 11. Train to Nagano. Jidzukiyama trails, 5 miles. 2 hours 17. 360 m of ascent. Massage and Onsen. 

Breakfast in the Japanese seating area of the lounge. My poor hips really don’t like sitting crossed legged for long. We watched the safety videos for the race which had interesting English translations. 

Finding our place to wait for our carriage for getting on the train was very confusing as there was a series of numbers for different routes and the number 2’s weren’t all at one end of the platform. Once we realised it was the limited express Shinano we found it. A cooler overcast day with rain forecast. 

For train journeys I have plenty of podcasts to listen to so I can look out the window and appreciate the views. It’s amazing how many tunnels we go through!

In Nagano an hour later we walked up the Main Street to Foret coffee. Dark brew for Andy light for me. I couldn’t tell the difference. We both got rice flour scones, they drizzled a sweet juice over them but they sucked all moisture from your mouth!

We followed the street through the Sampo Kojin gate with large angry looking warriors guarding the entrance on either side. Lots of shops selling food and gifts on either side. We knew our accommodation looked like a temple and I even spotted it but we walked on by before checking Google maps and going back to Matsuya Ryokan. We left our bags inside and continued on to the Zenkōji temple. 

This is one of the most famous Buddhist temples in Japan. Built in the 642 CE and thought to house the first Buddha to have been brought to Japan. Nagano, the town, was built around the temple and unusually it was one of the first temples to welcome women hence its popularity as a place to visit in your lifetime. It’s quite a large site with several amazingly decorated buildings. A dragon sat on top of a smoking pot and visitors wafted the smoke over themselves. We walked through the entrance of the main hall and round the main site as you can only go in a few of the buildings. 

From here Andy had plotted a route towards Jitsukiyama Park hoping we’d find some walking trails. We could see 2 temples on the hillside and were soon above one and alongside Zenkoji temple Unjouden Noukotsudou with views over the town and a massive cemetery next door. The grounds in front of the temple were unkempt but the buildings immaculate. 

We followed the path from there round to a large parking area next to what looked like the main entrance to the temple and spotted lots of steps up into the trees beside it. We weren’t sure what was up there but the small Komagatadake Komayumi Shrine appeared within the trees. There were 2 large boulders either side. Such a lovely simple place very tucked away. We were delighted as we weren’t on the route Andy had plotted now. 

There was a narrow path at the side with sign in Japanese so we followed it. Steps in places as it twisted through the trees. We got to a junction and kept going higher, I translated a sign and it said ‘Prince Kanbira’, whatever that is! A little further and amazingly we suddenly arrived a tiny old shrine, very basic but must be loved as the path, although narrow, is so well maintained. 

We continued up always going higher when we had a choice. There was a sign to say we were the same height as the Tokyo Tower 634m. The ground then levelled out with a viewpoint over the city. The hill side was covered in concrete grids as there was a massive fatal landslide in 1985 and these are to reinforce the ground with water channels to reduce the amount of water that soaks into the grown. Lots of vegetation growing through the concrete grids. There were also ladders up and down but they were either overgrown or had no entry signs on them. Suddenly we found a map and could see all the paths in the park. We decided to head back to a previous junction and down. As we zigzagged down we noticed blue ribbon tied to trees with Kitashinano Trail Freaks and trail running signs tapped into the ground. We reached a small park and a guy was tapping in feather flags as there’s a 8k and 20k race here tomorrow!

We zipped down the slide and headed back to town. Thunder claps filled the air plus a couple of drops of rain. 

We stopped at Tsuchimo Zenkoji Shinshu for oyaki filled pan fired dumplings as they were advertising no meat. We got 4, bean jam, radish and cabbage, mushroom and Miso, onion and cheese. Half each. They were greasy but delicious. Then the search for ice cream as the place I’d chosen was shut. We’d looked in a chilli shop earlier as I’d seen on Google it did ice cream but couldn’t see it. Turns out there was a restaurant in the back. I had miso. Andy had Yuzu, a tart East Asian citrus fruit. Staff pointed out the range of chilli’s to add to our ice creams. Andy tried a bit of most of them. 

Back to check in. I asked about a massage and the receptionist found me an information sheet with a link to instagram which wouldn’t open. She rang the place and I could go straight away so I left Andy sorting out bags and hoped I’d find the place as we’d dropped a pin on Google maps. It was raining quite heavily so we’d done well to miss it. The sign wasn’t obvious but the massage therapist opened the door and apologised for her bad English. She could say all she needed to find out where I wanted massaging. She said she didn’t do sports massage but would try. I agreed to an hour. It was a really good massage with her finding knots that needed extra work on. At the end of the hour I said I wished I’d asked for 90 minutes. So she did my back as well. Very relaxing.  

The rain had stopped as I weaved my way back finding a couple of temples and pretty streets. Andy was out of the Onsen so I went for a 10 minute soak which probably was too much as it took ages to cool down. I had a cold shower before we headed out for tea!

Tea was at Monzen Terrace Enya sitting on low seats but not on the floor. Avocado and seaweed with wasabi starter for me which was delicious. Andy had ramen soup. For my main I had grilled shinshu mushrooms and vegetables. Andy skewed chicken. Very tasty food. We both had soba tea pudding. Like a crème caramel with sweet sauce on the side. Such a lovely meal. 

We walked up to the temple which was lit up. Extra special with the lights reflecting on the wet pavements but it had stopped raining. Another lovely day with unexpected adventures. 

9th May Saturday. Day 12. Morning prayer at the Buddhist Temple. 8:25 Nagano > 9:32 Kumagaya. Shinkansen bullet train. 10:15 Kumagaya > 11:54 Minano. Chichibu Railway SL PALEO EXPRESS. Steam train. Race registration. 

Up at 5:30, I made us coffee and we were out the door by 5:50 to head to the Zenkōji temple. 

We were given an information sheet about what happens during the morning service. Two different Buddhist sects have consecutive services starting with the Tendai sect. We weren’t sure quite what to do as some people were stood inside the entrance area whereas others had taken their shoes off and gone into the main prayer area. We’d also seen a queue or line of people outside. One of the staff members took us outside when he saw us start to take our shoes off. He showed us where to stand and said to kneel when the high priest comes. We’d seen a few priests go by but it was obvious when the spiritual leader came along under the shade of a red umbrella. Bells had been rung too. He had prayer beads in his right hand and placed them on everyone’s heads as he came up the steps then round the side of the temple. We then went inside and listened to the sound of the bell as the inner curtain was raised. The main priest knelt in that chamber as Shomyo, a Buddhist vocal music was sung by the other priests with a drum or bell rung at times. After 20 minutes or so the head priest came down to the front and prayed before reciting “Namu Amida Butsu” 10 times. He then slipped out the side door and came round to the right to bless everyone on that side. Such a lovely peaceful atmosphere. Just the soft sound of voices from people talking or the plastic bags for shoes as people came and went to distract. A few people came in with dogs. A couple of runners mid run stopped for a few moments. We’d been told it wasn’t frowned on to leave early. We decided not to stay for the Jodo sects service as it was a similar format. 

We’d originally requested breakfast for 7:30 but asked if it could be 7, they were happy to change the time. I was concerned as we’d forgotten to request a vegetarian breakfast and the receptionist last night was concerned that everything was cooked in fish sauce if it didn’t have meat in. They had an amazing spread ready for me and it looked like just the fried egg really was the main difference with no soup or fish for me. 

We paid up and headed to the station an hour earlier than originally planned as Andy had spotted a steam train for the second leg of our journey but we needed to leave an hour earlier from Nagano. He’d managed to book seats on both journeys but we had to pick up the seat reservations. We were delighted when they gave us a refund on the original seats although they charge 30% we still got £20 back. We bought coffees and headed to the platform where the bullet train waited so we headed to the front for photos before getting on. Tiny windows but 5 seats across, 3 on our side. Speeds can get up to 200 miles per hour, not sure how fast we went but again lots of long tunnels coming out into flat land between the hills with towns.  We seemed to stop frequently. 

Our information for the steam train said allow 20 minutes to get to the Chichibu Railway but it was just next door and our only problem was that our tickets were taken by first machine we went through and we had to exit again which seemed confusing. Andy found the tickets and we headed up the platform but there were no places to buy food so we went back into the main station, the guards were happy to let us pass. No sign of any bento boxes but we got a few things from a convenience shop. 

The steam train rolled up but was being pulled backwards by an electric engine. The steam engine appeared and everyone stood in place for photos. It was quite chaotic. We were in the restaurant car and they had ice cream!  We chugged slowly out of town. It was really exciting especially after our first Shinkansen train this morning to have the contrast of a slower train. 

I bought us each honey walnut ice cream. Tiny pieces of walnut and a good sweet taste of honey. Absolutely delighted to get my dose for the day.  

A slow journey out of town then weaved between the tree covered hills. Really lovely. We stopped a few times and twice for about 10 minutes so people could walk about the platform. 

We were the only people getting off at Minano. Most people will be doing this as a return day trip. The guard on the platform said we’d only paid for our reserved seats but should have swiped our Sucia cards at Kumagaya to pay for the journey. We had to place our cards on a machine and he spoke to someone who started the journey for us and we swiped off as we left the station. 

Andy had worked out Garmin routes to get to our accommodation and then to race registration. We got to the entrance of the Mahora Inahoyama natural park and chatted to the receptionist. She was expecting us but the cabin wouldn’t be ready for another 90 minutes. She was very excited explaining about everything there is to see in the park. We explained about the race and that we wouldn’t have time to explore really. We were both relieved when she pointed out we’d be staying next door to the entrance and not up the hill at all as we’d expected. 

They were happy to look after our bags as we grabbed our race kit and headed the 2.2 miles to registration. We handed in our form to say we had all the mandatory kit and were race fit. We were given our race numbers, T-shirt and goodie bag. The goodie bag was all leaflets and a map plus some race supplement with fish in it!  

We ate our lunch and headed back via a big supermarket. Next door Andy bought a hat as he’d lost his today! I started buying some fruit and noodles that just need hot water to warm them through. We’d checked what facilities there are in our cabin and they said no microwave just a kettle. Turns out there is a microwave but no crockery! We bought some beans, mushrooms and veg that just need warming through. Then I hunted down a sauce that didn’t have any meat products in which took a while. 

We bought sandwiches for breakfast and cakes as race nutrition although we both have chia chews. We’d hoped to see the steam train coming back through town but I confused Andy with what time it was and I was really was too tired to walk any further. 

We’re in a lovely but very basic cabin. They are used to people bringing all their camping needs but they supplied us with towels, bowls and plates. They also told us where we’ll find a laundrette tomorrow which will be great post race. 

There’s a hot tub but you have to fill it yourself so I guess it’s a deep bath. We’re quite close to the main road but just grateful to have a relatively flat walk in the morning to the race start. Good to be unpacked for a 2 night stay and be ready for the early start. 

10th May Sunday. Day 13. Minano 50k. 32.3 miles in 9:59:46, 2666m of ascent. Run time 4:53:00. Walk time 4:29:35. Idle time 37:51. 58th of 102 ladies, 15th of 32 in age. 312nd of 473 men, 99th of 163. 369th out of 575. Completion rate: 89.4% (Men: 88.3%, Women: 94.1%)

Alarm was set for 5:00! Coffee on, breakfast eaten as we dressed and became race ready. One of Andy’s new water bottles had a split it, we bought a 500ml bottle of water on the way to the start so he had the required 1 litre. Out by 5:50. Luckily Andy realised he’d forgotten his phone before we got very far. I kept walking to the 7 eleven for the water. Several people in race kit were buying food. 

Andy handed in our post race bags as I joined the loo queue. He ended up chatting to an Italian in his loo queue. Photos, drum band as a warm up and into pen B. 2 American airforce guys chatted to us both feeling unprepared, they were as they dropped out at the 4th checkpoint. 

If you don’t like heights or steep drop offs then this race might not be for you. However if you like running in forests on a soft carpet of pine needles or golden leaves. With shafts of sunlight guiding your way as you zigzag steeply up a hill to find an amazing view of green hills and valleys at the top.  With ancient shrines and guardian stones appearing when you least expect them, and seeing other runners pause to bow their head in respect as they pass beneath the Torii gate. With well stocked checkpoints every 4 or 5 miles and cheering marshals spread frequently along the way ready to high 5 you. Then maybe you should be on the start line next year. 

4 tough hills that everytime we thought we were at the top would have a cheeky down hill or 2 before finally reaching the top. The heat didn’t help, my watch said 31 degrees at one point but I wasn’t checking it frequently. Luckily we were in the shade of the trees a lot or there was a welcome breeze near the top. There were long sections of tarmac or concrete trails but we’d been warned of that. People were friendly chatting in English to us or high fiving Andy as he encouraged lots of people to do. 

We saw 2 rescue teams in action. One near a road side the other we didn’t see the injured racer but a rescue person came running up the hill towards us. That was just after a really tricky ridge line with very steep drop off and we’d been told to walk it. The path was crumbling in sections or we scrambled up or down boulders so there wasn’t much running going on. I got told off for running but was just walking quickly to catch up with Andy on an easier section. I had forgotten we weren’t allowed to walk. 

The Japanese are very polite and don’t like to go past you or ask to go by. There was a lot of single track so mini queues formed. There was also narrow track quite early on which meant we had a stop start progress initially and one section of steep narrow steps that we all queued for. We stood to the side at times to allow people to pass and when we got caught behind people we’d be patient until a wide section then we’d speed past but that was generally on the descents. On the ascents we were happy to go with the slower flow but often couldn’t really go faster with the heat and steepness. We both really struggled at times but Andy’s Achilles really didn’t like the gradient. I looked at Andy’s pale, sweat dripping face at one point and thought I’d seen him look like he was struggling badly before but couldn’t think where. Luckily it was as he was skipping off down the next descent happily chatting away that I remembered him having heat stroke on the Dragons Back but that time he wasn’t making sense and today he was. 

The checkpoints being so frequent meant we didn’t have to carry too much fluid but I probably should have filled both 500ml bottles more often. They had the choice of barley tea, sports drink and water. They’d give you a cup of coke but didn’t like to fill your bottle, I was lucky at the first checkpoint with that but afterwards it was always just a cups worth. I’d hoped to try more of their food but despite a reassuring email back from the race organisers telling me it would just be the pork soup at checkpoint 3 I couldn’t have I decided not to risk it knowing they don’t seem to think fish is off limits over here. I did have a couple of bean paste dumplings though. I was carrying a couple of pastries and a bag of soft donuts as well as my trusty chia chews and had more than enough fuel. 

The third checkpoint was back at the race registration site as there’s a 30km race that start a couple of hours after us. They just do the first loop. It felt so cruel being back at base and having to go out and do another 14 miles. Within the first mile of leaving that checkout we spotted the race leader coming in! 5 hours 25! We all had race numbers on with our names but sadly we couldn’t read the Japanese names. They also had the elevation profile on upside down so you could read it as you run and see the distance and where checkpoints were. Very useful although we had what we needed on our watches. 

We’d hoped to finish in 8 hours but the heat and stiff climbs really slowed us down. The enforced slower pace was good for me as I felt strong. As we got to the final water station and knew it was mostly flat 4.5 miles to the finish I knew I could run it. I didn’t want to put pressure on Andy but he was doing the same as me and working out what speed we would need to run at to finish under 10 hours. I didn’t think we’d do it but he really pushed it and we sped round 3 sides of baseball ground and then held hands as we ran under the finish arch in 9:59:46!

Photos taken and round to the main finish area. There was a fan with a hosepipe round it with holes in spraying water. Andy stopped for a soak. We got our race certificates and finish bag but didn’t need to change clothes. There were food stalls and I headed straight to the ice cream van as I knew the chocolate shop I’d hoped to get ice cream in would be shut before I got there. Black honey kinako (soybean flour made into cornflakes). I didn’t get pictures of the brand etc so it won’t be going on my list. Andy got a massive pile of shaved ice with a sauce to poor over it. Very strange and cold but lots of runners were having it. Really pleased with what we achieved a lovely race. Very friendly and well organised. 

Andy had hoped to go for a dip in the river but it was too far down and he wasn’t sure if it was safe to get in. He went straight back to the accommodation and I bought food for tea on the way and nibbled on peanuts and fruit juice. He was shattered so had a soak in the hot tub and I, after showering, headed down to the laundrette. There were basic instructions to put your money in first but water starting pouring in so I rushed to put the clothes in. When I translated the instructions it said that you needed to wash the machine first then add clothes, odd! I kept looking in and it seemed to fill up eventually so I left it working its magic. I walked to Hotto Motto next door as they sell bento boxes but it just looked like a fast food place. I was looking for breakfast ideas so nipped to 7-Eleven. I found some hard boiled eggs as well as a couple of salads and rice triangles. Back to dry the clothes and 20 minutes later I was walking back for tea. 

I’d bought noodles, beans and mushrooms again but asked someone for help in finding miso. Andy made soup with the miso and heated up the rest. Perfect but 20:30 so I was ready to go to bed after I’d eaten. It was hard to get to sleep with throbbing feet and restless legs. It was also warm so I pushed my duvet back and slept under the sheet initially.

11th May Monday. Day 14. Minano 07:18 to Kumagaya. Kumagaya to Tokyo 09:00. Tokyo 09:48 to Kyoto 12:00. Temples.

Up at 6. More noddles for breakfast. We packed up and realised there was an earlier train than planned so headed to the station for the 7:18 limited stop train rather than the 7:26. Andy booked our train from Kumagaya to Tokyo as we waited. We tapped on but then the conductor came round and charged us 300¥ each. Everyone was tapping off when they got off. We think we paid a surcharge for the speedier train. 

Andy asked at the ticket office if they’d found his hat. They’d found a hat so took him to the lost property office but it wasn’t his. I bought us large black coffees, we picked up our tickets and headed to our next Shinkansen bullet train. A train to Tokyo pulled up so we got on it as we have tickets for any train but no reserved seats on this one. We walked down a few carriages and found 2 seats in the reserved section and hoped no one would get on at any of the 3 stops, it’s only a 38 minute journey. The conductor said one of us needed to move to a centre seat but we only had 15 minutes until we arrived in Tokyo so we stayed. We arrived in Tokyo at 9am 16 minutes earlier than planned. Good job really as it’s a massive complicated station. We had to come out of our area by swiping our tickets and try to find the Shinkansen area we wanted. We got a bit turned around as we could see where we needed to go as we came out but because we got confused as to which tickets we needed to swipe I stopped concentrating. Back towards platform 19 and our tickets wouldn’t swipe. We’d got reservations but only one ticket. Usually we have the fare ticket and a seat reservation tickets. The guard suggested we swipe our sucia cards, not sure why but that didn’t work so he looked at our ticket, stamped it and let us in. 

There was an ice cream vending machine on the platform, how exciting is that!

9:48 Shinkansen to Kyoto with reserved seats. We were at the front of the queue for getting on. A train pulled up and emptied and immediately a team of cleaners arrived and got on. They must employ hundreds as whilst they were on our train another team turned up for the train arriving on the other platform. I love how they bow before they get on. I’d seen that at the supermarket yesterday as an employee went into a store room they turned to face the main shop, bowed and exited. 

Andy was watching our speed. We got up to 182 mph. We were going south of Mt Fuji but there were clouds across the hill tops. I kept looking at google maps to see where we were to check the views but think the mountain was hidden. We ate and time seemed to go quickly because before we knew it we were in Kyoto at 12.  

We weren’t sure which exit to use but knew we needed to head east. Google maps then guided us over the railway tracks to Wander Kyoto Nanajo. We could check in and leave our bags but not access our room. They have a lounge with free drinks so we relaxed as we waited for the rest of the family up turn up. 

Jason and Tomoko, are sharing an Airbnb with Becky, Ella and Ken just 5 minutes walk from us. 

We walked to Jason’s Airbnb and headed out to the 1,200 year old world heritage Buddhist temple of Kiyomizu-dera. It was a crazy busy narrow street to negotiate Ella’s pushchair up passing lots of mostly food stalls in a Edo style street. The bright orange temple is beautifully situated on the hillside above Kyoto. Amazing views and a stunning location. It’s amazing how it’s supported by pillars. Becky and I grabbed a quick ice cream whilst we waited for Jason’s Australian friends to arrive. 

Luckily the temple grounds are accessible. We took it in turns to push the chair or walk with Ella as she was keen to go up the stepped way. Through and round the complex and down to the Otowa Waterfall. The pure, clear, gushing waters are called “Konjiki-sui” (golden water) or “Enmei-sui” (life-prolonging water). You use a ladle to catch the water and wash each hand then drink from your hand and make a wish.  

On down the now less busy streets passing by the 5 storey Hōkan-ji Temple (Yasaka Pagoda) with a yuzu tree outside in full fruit. 

Yasaka Shinto Shrine from 656 CE was lovely with its rows of paper lanterns. The lanterns are traditionally sponsored by local businesses to get revenue. A lovely serene place to walk around. 

We passed quite a few street stalls with interesting looking bites to eat but Jason had found Kyoto Engine Ramen for gluten-free and vegetarian. It was a small place with a queue so Jason and the others left Becky, Ken, Ella and us there.  Ella enjoyed sucking the noodles from the bowl. A lovely big bowl of soup and veg, very spicy for me. We met up with the others as they wanted to head for a beer but I was shattered so I caught the underground home. Just one stop and then walk over the bridge, very convenient. They were happy to just give me my room key with Andy coming later and I headed to our room but couldn’t find the stairs. I asked and they were quite surprised I’d prefer stairs. So it’s the fire exits and you have to remove the safety tag, turn the knob and open the door and replace the safety tag. Easy to do but I think they prefer you to use the lifts!   I bought coffee bags and yoghurt from the 7-Eleven across the road. Unpacked, showered and was in bed with my swollen feet elevated by 9. The race was catching up with me!!

12th May Tuesday. Day 15. Exploring Osaka. 

Breakfast at Veg Out cafe just a few doors up. We shared grilled veg on toast and avocado toast. With lovely coffee. 

We planned to head to Osaka today. The others were going to universal studios so we went our separate ways. It took awhile to work out which train to get but luckily it’s just the train station near our hotel. We initially jumped on the blue line as it was stopping where we need to go but it’s a slower train so changed back to the red line. Posh soft airline seats rather than tube style as the blue line was. I always like the announcements as there seems to be lots to say in Japanese that’s translated to a couple of words in English. I wonder what we don’t get to find out!

A slightly more overcast day but still warm. We walked up to Osaka castle which I thought we’d see from the train line but it’s just a massive city full of skyscrapers around it. We managed to find a walk along the river bank and then headed round the extensive gardens initially and still hardly saw the castle. The castle walls are massive and slightly concave with a moat beneath. There’s been a castle here since 1579. As we walked over the moat and through the gate the crowds intensified but we started to get views of the stunning castle. 

Lots of cafes one selling gold leaf soft serve ice cream for £11, I didn’t bother. 

We queued up to get into the castle. There was then the choice of queuing for the lift to go to the viewing platform or no queue for the stairs. 

On each floor there was a history of the castle so we paused and looked at the displays before climbing to the next. The armour was amazing and displays about the complicated family relationships so interesting. There was a display about the foundations and a ‘surprising’ wall they’d found but this was from the original castle of 1583 that was buried by the Tokugawa government in 1620 to erase all the authority of the Toyotomi family. There were scale models of the 2 initial phases of the castle. More damage was done by fires over the years plus world war 2 and large areas of land became the public parks after the war. Really interesting. 

Such a different experience to Matsumoto as this was so modern inside. We didn’t need to take our shoes off and there was much more decoration and lightening. We were soon on the 8th floor with views of the city but also the gardens and moats below. Lovely in the sunshine. I loved seeing the massive Shachi, the golden dolphin fish on each main side. 

I enjoy seeing how many people hire a kimono for the day as they pose for photos by places like the castle. The traditional wooden shoes really don’t look comfortable!

We headed down for food. Andy spotted a place and we jumped on the metro for a few stops. It’s a massive city twice the size of London so using the metro even for us makes a difference and yes I still have very tired legs after Sunday. 

Into Dotonbori the area famous for the crazy signs and sculptures above doorways including the mechanical crab. It was really busy and hard to move about but fascinating. Full of food stalls and shops. I’m not sure what the signs are all about but crazy is the only word to describe it. 

Tomoko had pointed out some Daifuku mochi yesterday and said I should try them. We spotted a stall. They are stuffed balls of rice cake. These were cut open with a strawberry in. I chose the strawberry filling and Andy a red bean paste. We had half each. They were lovely but we think we’ve had similar already. 

Pivot BASE Cafe＆Bar. All vegan food. I had a bowl of creamy Tonkotsu style ramen, really nice and filling. Andy had 6 Takoyaki with salad and soup. These are usually filled with octopus but obviously we had the vegan version, really tasty. They had rice gelato so I couldn’t resist trying it. I went for the plain rice and it was creamy but not much taste, I was trying to be good and not have chocolate

We were looking for some greenery and Andy had spotted a few parks but they were all a bit of distance. We walked to the canal that the area is named after and did our poses beneath the picture of the Glico Running Man. 

I spotted on Google maps the Namba Yasaka Jinja which was nearby. A pigeon sat on the nose of the 12 foot high lions head. The mouth of the lion is open bearing their teeth. There’s been a combined Shinto and Buddhist shrine here since the 4th century CE. The shrine was destroyed by war time bombing in 1945 and the Shishiden lion head was built in 1974 to ward off evil. It’s really impressive and apparently you go inside the mouth for services! There is also a castle like shrine next to it, Koi Koi Omikuji with lots of jars of fish to give as offerings as the word carp is similar to love in Japanese so you can wish for luck in love here. 

Up to Parks Garden a little oasis of peace above the bustling streets of Osaka and Namba train station. There’s several floors and differing species of plants. With lots of benches to relax on and a few cafes. It got quite windy as we started climbing the various levels. We stopped at To The Herbs and I had Greek yogurt and açai smoothie and Andy had the açai smoothie. Very nice. Interesting views of the city but also the other levels below. It was 5:30. Jason and the rest were still exploring universal studios so we headed back catching 2 busy trains which was fun. 

Some food from 7-Eleven and time to rest the weary legs.

13th May Wednesday. Day 16. Exploring Nara

Breakfast in our room then up to meet Jason and co. We caught several trains to Nara. 

Nara park with hundreds of hungry deer. People were being chased when they’d got food. Ken bought some of the crackers you’re allowed to feed them with and they were very keen. 

Under the massive 13th century Great South Nandaimon Gate with 2 massive, spooky 8 meter tall Nio Guardian statues on either side. 

Nara’s highlight is the Todai-ji Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall). 8th century 15 meter tall seated bronze Rushana Buddha originally commissioned to combat disease and disaster. Perched up high in the world’s largest wooden building it really is quite magnificent. It’s been repaired a fair few times but the current building is from 1709 and holds world heritage status. 

There’s a hole in a pillar you can crawl through for good luck. The queue wasn’t very long so I joined it. A few people got stuck and needed pulling though. I worked out that peoples feet were slipping on the floor until they found a rough edge of a stone and they got through by pushing off that. I also got lucky and found a hand hold to pull on which helped me through. 

There were more Torii gates and lanterns lining the way up to the Todai-ji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo, March Hall). A really beautiful temple with sweeping views across Nara. Free barley tea and water in a rest area. 

Lovely sites to walk about but Jason was concerned about the growing dark clouds, rain was forecast. We found a few gluten-free places near the train station but not all were open so Tomoko went in a few places to check. They went for sushi as they had gluten free options but not much veggie. 

We went into Cafe Groovy with its veggie menu. Soy meat spinach curry for me. The picture didn’t look appealing but it was very tasty food. Mini parfait chestnut pudding with cornflakes, chanty cream, vanilla ice cream and sweet potato bean paste. Lovely pudding. It was meant to come with a mini dear biscuit but didn’t!

We decided to go to the Kasugataisha Shrine nearby.  A lovely walk through the trees with thousands of stone lanterns lining the way. This Shinto world heritage site was built in 768. Deer were dotted about and our progress was slowed by the quantity of people heading there too. We walked round some of the side shrines and then under the red gate leading to the main shrine. Rows of bronze lanterns lined the courtyard. We explored a little before heading out for ice cream. 

We caught a bus as everywhere close by sells soft serve ice cream and we’d prefer proper ice cream so had to go into Nara a little further. Mugwort flavour at Gelateria Nonna. Such an unusual ice cream. A herb so I wasn’t expecting it to be sweet but it wasn’t savoury either really. A very delicate taste and yes a herby. Interesting. Andy had onion ice cream which was equally excellent and strange!

We walked to the train station and headed a few stops up then got on the limited stop line to Kyoto but couldn’t see the ticket machine to pay the excess until after we were moving. Andy found the conductor and we paid the extra 520¥ each. It’s worth it for a speedy train to Kyoto then out to Inari station. 

Jason and team headed straight for Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto after lunch and we aimed for that next. 

Senbon Torii (Thousand Torii Gates) and rather a lot of cat (or fox) statues. We wandered round the main shrine then started through the tunnels made by the Torii gates mostly painted red with black text on the back as we headed up. Lots of people trying to get arty shots. We reached a shrine and saw a path away from the gates saying mountain top so we followed the route through the bamboo groves and graveyards with mini shrines. It was rough under foot and we wondered what it would be like coming back down in the dark. Then suddenly there was a Torii gated, lit path ahead. If we’d realised we could have come up the stepped way but I’m actually pleased we took the path less used as it was quite mysterious. Still more steps to climb to 264m and Kami-no-Yashiro shrine. Surrounded by trees we had no views but could just see the golden glow of the setting sun through them. We walked round the shrine. Lots of tiny red Torii gates piled up with signs asking you not to disturb as they were sacred gifts. A sign said beware of wild boars!

We started to head down through the Torii gate tunnel hoping to find a good sunset spot. Any openings initially still had tall trees until we reached an opening and lots of people were enjoying the remaining glow. Back through the main shrine and a couple of stops and we were home. Andy bought some food for tea for a bedroom picnic. 

14th May Thursday. Day 17. Nijō Castle. Trains Kyoto to Mishima to Atami then onto Tokyo. 

We met up with Jason, Tomoko, Becky, Ken and Ella and headed on the underground to Nijō Castle world heritage site. 

The castle was built by the first Shogun in 1603 and it was here in 1867 that the 15th Shogun handed over political power to the Emperor. 

Over the moat and through the impressive gates. Shoes off to go into the Ninomaru-goten palace. All ground floor, mostly reception rooms. Tigers painted on the walls despite there not being any in Japan. Then different rooms had willow or cherry blossom trees with plenty of different birds. The ceilings beautifully decorated panels and wooden carved panels in the corridors. No photos allowed despite them all being replicas of the originals. Squeaky floors to stop any invaders creeping in, it sounded strange as we walked around. Large ground floor compared to what we’ve been in before, so different, so lovely. 

Extensive well maintained grounds with another palace that we didn’t go into. There was the base of an old keep tower to go up for views of the grounds plus city. Carp were being fed in the moat as we crossed to the outer gardens. A small mound that was the original castle wall. 

A lovely setting especially as it didn’t have the concrete jungle of skyscrapers around it just low rise Kyoto. 

Jason and Tomoko went back for their luggage whilst Becky, Ella, Ken, Andy and I went for ice cream. Karaku Honpo had a good selection. I went for soy sauce which had that slight salty taste and wasn’t overwhelming but a really nice creamy ice cream. Andy had black bean, Becky honey and Ken yuzu sherbet. Ella was happy to share anyone’s who was willing. They headed to Kyoto station and we went back to the hotel for our bags. 

We walked up to Kyoto main station. Andy had checked out trains as we’re doing a side trip on the way to Tokyo at Atami. Shinkansen tickets bought to Mishima and local train to Atami. I googled vegetarian bento boxes and found a place on our way to the platform. I asked a member of staff and she doubled checked that there was no fish sauce in the box just soy sauce. 

Massive long queue of kids but they didn’t get on our train! The 14:07 train, took 1 hour 50 to Mishima. We could just see the snow covered Mt Fuji but clouds were hiding it. A 17 minute wait giving us plenty of time to find the next station and the local train to Atami. AI recommended this as a nice stop on the way to Tokyo giving us history, nature and a seaside trip. 

Atami is a quite run down spa town but we found a scenic trail following a stream with sculptures, trees and art work that led to the sea. We were interested in Atami castle. We knew it was only built in 1959 but was perched 120m up high on a cliff. We could see the replica golden shachihokos (fish) on its roof. A lovely fake castle. 

There’s a cable rope way to whisk you up to the castle at the end of the promenade. We knew it shut at 17:30 so we had plenty of time to get there except it turns out it shuts at 17:00. We tried to find another way up as Andy had found information about a route down from the castle through the trees arriving at the other side of the headland but we couldn’t get round to find its starting point. 

We decided to get a taxi up as the walk could have taken an hour if we followed Google maps and we weren’t sure if there was a path along the busy road going up. There were paths so it was an option for our return. 

We knew the castle would be shut but just wanted to see it and its surrounds. It was hard to see it as we were right under it on the narrow headland. We had good views back down on the town and the dark clouds that were forming.  We’d not realised rain was forecast!  

We decided to go the inland route back along the headland, courtesy of Google maps. 3 miles to get back to the station. We didn’t have time to visit the pagodas which we could see the tops of. Up initially but it gave us great views back of the castle, bays further along the coast and then older buildings from Atami perched in the hillside. We walked back all the way along the sea front then up lots of steps to get to the train station. We bought snacks and got on the unreserved section of the train finding seats no problem. 40 minutes to Tokyo on a 3 minute late Shinkansen. 

We were 2 stops from Akihabara station and then a 9 minute walk to Dormy Inn Akihabara. A tiny double room but enough space for us. No stairs to our floor though. 

We moved the double bed into the middle of the room to give us space for getting out of it but the light switches are where I rest when I sit up and lean on the headboard so I kept switching them on and off!!

We have yukata (Onsen pyjamas) to wear. Andy went off to try the Onsen. Tattoos aren’t allowed but I may be able to cover mine. There are free noodles here but not for vegetarians. And returned with ice lolly’s!

15th May Friday. Day 18. Tokyo Tower and Shibuya crossing. 

We headed out for breakfast at Komeda’s and joined the queue by taking a number. We ordered morning set breakfast toast with red bean paste. I got a yogurt with honey and Andy coleslaw. 

We’ve been listening to a Japanese history podcast about the Samurai’s so were keen to see Taira no Masakado’s Grave. Fresh flowers and incense were burning with people coming to pay their respects at the simple but lovely spot. Fascinating. He is regarded as one of 3 hero’s of Japanese history as he led an uprising against the imperial government of Kyoto, as a pioneering samurai he declared himself the new emperor but then was killed in 940. The shrine is seen as cursed as when buildings have been built over the site or they tried to move it people died in strange ways hence it being so well looked after now. 

We walked along the moat of the imperial castle a short way before jumping on the metro to get to Tokyo Tower. We’d arranged to meet everyone at 11 at there as we’re staying about 30 minute walk from them. We had a long elevenses in a cafe. 

We walked around the Buddhist Zojo-ji Temple, so ornate inside and up to the Tokyo tower. We all went up the lift initially to the 150m deck then onto the 250m deck. Excellent views over the city but it was too hazy to see Mt Fuji. Good to see the river that we’ll be cruising on tomorrow. I ended up holding Ella as we were going down so missed the outside steps from the lower deck but Jason and Andy walked down that section. 

Jonathan’s restaurant for lunch as our destination for a gluten-free menu was shut. Massive menu. It took awhile to get something gluten-free for Becky, she ended up with spinach, mushrooms and bacon with fries. I had margarita pizza and a Jonathan salad. They had a robot waiter that brought food to our table. Very cute. 

Back on the metro to Shibuya crossing it’s meant to be the biggest pedestrian road crossing in the world and although busy was quite underwhelming. Lots of neon lights coming on and I know it’s meant to better at night. Into a star wars exhibit and the others wanted to go to a Pokémon place. 

Andy and I disappeared off in search of ice cream. Our first choice no longer sold it! We saw a sign for ice cream but it took a bit of a search for it and finally we found it on the 4th floor about Shibuya station. Baskin Robbins of all the places but they had an amazing choice of weird sounding flavours. I chose Hanami dango the chewy rice dumplings we’d had earlier but these were 3 colours pink, white and green mixed in together (Cherry blossom, vanilla and matcha). It was a lovely ice cream but just tasted sweet. 

Back to our hotel with a rough plan of meeting the others for tea later but knowing we were tired we also thought of relaxing at the hotel. It was really busy being rush hour in the metro station moving about but all very orderly staying on one side to move in that direction only. Luckily we were at the start of our line so the train early empty. I found a seat for the 25 minute journey and the train really filled up. 

Andy spotted a vegan restaurant near our hotel that stopped serving at 19:30. We got off at an earlier station as realised it was a 9 minute walk from either station. Google maps also told us which exit to take and we arrived 5 minutes before last orders at Komaki Shokudo Kamakura Fushikian within the Akihababa station complex. A Komaki Set Meal and a Soy meat Karaage Set Meal. Great to have some vegetables again. 

Jason sent a message to say they’d felt an earthquake apparently it was 240 miles north of us. We felt nothing. Andy went in the Onsen again and brought back ice lollies. 

16th May Saturday. Day 19. Jason and Tomoko wedding day. 

Up at 6:30 for the 30 minute journey to parkrun. We ran from the 2nd to last stop as a 2 km warm up. Over a bridge and along the route of the out and back parkrun route. Shingashigawa Ukima parkrun. 26:17. 29th of 53. 4th lady. 1st in age. Back for showers and breakfast and walk up to the Yushima Tenjin Shrine for Jason and Tomoko’s wedding. We entered the side building taking our shoes off. Ella went into her pram for her sleep at 11. Ken, Andy, Sam then a member of staff kept an on her. 

It’s been a really magical day. So lucky to have been part of the Japanese wedding. They were both dressed in traditional clothes and Ella was too. Tomoko’s head was covered so we could just see her face, fascinating to see the large bump on her back as the gown isn’t sewn together but tied. It was also very tight around her ankles so she had to take tiny steps. One of the staff members stayed with her, it’s traditional for her to walk behind Jason even after they’d said their vows. They both wore traditional shoes which have a separate big toe to the other 4, their socks were in the same shape of one big toe and the second part for the other 4 toes as well.  

In the first room the 2 families sat opposite each other and Tomoko introduced our family to her family. We stood us individually and bowed, they all bowed their heads back at us. She had 4 uncles, one had died but the remaining 3 plus 4 wives and cousins were there. She didn’t introduce Jason’s 3 sets of friends or any of her friends. 

We were walked through to the main shrine stopping to wash our hands on the way and again we were sat opposite each other with tiny saucers in trays in front of us. Jason and Tomoko were in the middle of the room facing the inner shrine. 

Sake is drunk as part of ceremony three times for the couple and once for us all in the tiny saucers. The official ceremony including various readings, waving of a paper branch, dancing, their vows and so much more that we didn’t fully understand. We stood and sat several times then Jason and Tomoko went onto the inner shrine for their vows. Even if we could have understood it it was too quiet to hear. The whole ceremony lasted about 40 minutes. 

I was fascinated that Tomoko’s family and friends were mostly in black. Tomoko’s mum wore a kimono with the family emblem on it, which Jason had too with him not having Japan lineage. 

They’d hired a coach to take us to the river. Ella was still asleep in the pushchair so we wedged her in the isle. I ended up with some of the cousins. One could speak good English the other 2 could understand but were quite shy to chat. 

We had a fantastic never ending meal on the river cruise. Luckily we didn’t have to sit cross legged as there was a pit under the table for our legs. Various speeches and lots of sake drunk. Tomoko and Jason cracked the top of the sake drum open with a barrel. Ella was fascinated playing with the ladle and splashing the liquid.

We had photos on the top deck with the city views behind. 

Onto PRONTO bar for more free drinks, food and partying. Andy was very sociable going round trying to chat to everyone. Two Japanese ladies who lived with Tomoko in Toronto came and chatted to us as they didn’t know anyone else. It’s great having various translation apps to ease the conversation. We only had the bar until 6:30 but could still use some tables later. We left Jason and Tomoko to their friends around 7 and walked back as we were only 20 minutes walk away. 

17th May Sunday. Day 20. Exploring Tokyo

We headed to Shochikuen Cafe for elevenses as it was close to where the others were staying. Rainbow cake for Andy and Mt Blanc for me. 

We walked to join the others and they were ready for food so we headed to RepubliQ Tokyo. They’d run out of food so we just had cake sharing Matcha cheesecake and apple pie. 

Into Ueno park and Statue of Saigō. We walked around a couple of temples and a pagoda that used to have a big Buddha statue. We met Jason and friends and walked round a street market which was really hot and airless. Jason was keen to show us the part of Tokyo not bombed in world war 2. Yanaka Ginza is narrow streets and shrines with a cat theme. Lovely to walk to. We also found ice cream. I had roasted green tea which was amazing turns out I’ve already had it, there wasn’t another choice. 

We left the others as they wanted to shop. We bought a baked sweet potato and seaweed chips, very tasty, then red bean paste buns at the station, they were amazing with loads of bean paste in them.  On to Asakusa for the annual Shinto Sanja Matsuri festival one of Tokyo’s largest and wildest festivals featuring the gathering of around 100 neighbourhood mikoshi (portable shrines) that parade through the Asakusa streets, creating a high-energy, crowded, and lively atmosphere. We were lucky to see 2 groups competing against each other in the street. One shrine had people sitting in it playing drums. The other was dancing down the streets. Loads of people wearing short traditional tunics (Happi) often with not much on their legs! Lots of clapping and cheering. So much energy and fun but we aren’t sure what was going on but it was wonderful to be welcomed in. 

Plenty of stalls as we walked up to the Sensō-ji Temple. It was busy so we couldn’t walk fast and quite warm. Up the steps for views across the complex and into the ornate temple. 

We decided to find somewhere for food as the others wanted sushi and the gluten free place had limited options for vegetarians. 

injoy Vegan Restaurant. When we arrived there was a meeting going on about providing vegan food, they all jumped up ready for us, the place soon filled up. It is also a traditional tea drinking restaurant and quite fine dining. I chose stone-grilled bibimbap, a hot pot of 7 vegetables in a Gochujang sauce. It’s a thick, fermented Korean red chili paste made from chili powder, glutinous rice, fermented soybeans, and salt, really lovely. The pot was burning hot so kept cooking the food as I ate! Andy had the hot and sour noodle soup made from mushrooms, tomatoes, sea-kissed nori, and their secret homemade sauce. Very tasty and filling. 

I realised I still needed ice cream and found a spot close by called Bee Friendship. We sent details to Becky as Ella’s middle name is Bee. Amazing Açai Royal Jelly honey gelato for me and Andy had a very sharp lemon. Lovely little shop selling honey and mead and all things bee related. 

Andy had worked out a route back to where we are staying along the river. It was lovely watching the city change as night fell. Lots of runners along the river too. Finally the day was cooling down. 

18th May Monday. Day 21. Tour of Mt Fuji 

The tour bus was due to leave at 8 so it was an early start getting to Tokyo station. We ended up on an earlier train than expected and were there by 7:20. We’d bought food but the information said no food on the bus so we didn’t bring it all but could have. 

Tim the tour guide chatted about today’s stops and took food orders for the lunch stop. Nothing gluten free but there is a shop but there was vegetarian. 

A really clear day and within 45 minutes we could just see Mt Fuji really clearly. 

We had an hour at Nemba Village which is a restored traditional village with thatched rooftops and great views of Mt Fuji. A stream flowed down the middle with the fish flags fluttering in the breeze at the top. We could go in a few of the buildings and crafts people were at work. 

We drove round a couple of the largest lakes in Japan to Oishi Park. Famous for the Baby Blue Eyes flowers (Nemophila) in the foreground for photos with Mt Fuji. It’s also known for ice cream but again it was soft serve. I had to try the Nemophila flavour and when some of the others joined the queue I did too. Lovely ice cream but not much of a distinctive flavour. We all met at the lake side for photos. There’s a lovely display of the blue flowers plus a rainbow spread of different flowers. 

Lunch stop canteen style. Lovely mix of thick noodles, vegetables and tofu in the heated pot with rice, pickles and a potato hash brown. 

Oshini-Hakkai was a very popular, busy world heritage site.  4 ponds with reflections, carp and fresh drinking water from Mt Fuji. Nice to walk about and a few freebies of wasabi goodies to try. Lovely views of the mountain but too busy. 

The final stop of the day was at the Sengen shrine. We had 400 steps to climb to get to a five-tier pagoda and see Mt Fuji beyond. We made our good wishes at the shrine and headed back for the 2 hour drive back to Tokyo. 

So pleased that it was such a perfect day as 75% of the time there’s no views of Mt Fuji due to low cloud. 

Taxi to Gonpachi restaurant with Ken and Becky. Becky managed to get a gluten free menu so I asked for vegetarian. 

I had Tempura Seiro Soba, cold noodles with Tempura. The others had various dishes and we all shared bits with Ella as she loves the noodles as well as the various meats. Great location. We sat downstairs and could see the kitchen plus next to us a guy making the soba noodles from scratch. Rolling them out then cutting them. Upstairs most people sat round the kitchen area or could look out over the river and it was a livelier atmosphere. 

We caught the metro back and I went up to the top floor for the first time for ice cream. Onsen for Andy. 

19th May Tuesday, Day 22. Imperial Palace Gardens. Hamarikyu Gardens. Sushi and pancakes. Tokyo at night. 

Slow start to the day so we headed to the Imperial Palace as although it’s very hard to get tickets to go round the palace itself the gardens are worth a free stroll around. 

The Imperial Palace is the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan. It’s located on the historic former site of an Edo Castle but there’s only an old stone tower to see now. The vast grounds feature wide moats, ancient stone walls, and tranquil public gardens such as Ninomaru Gardens complete with waterfalls, bridges, fish and flowers. So strange to walk around and not see the palace itself just the massive concrete skyscrapers of Tokyo city. The corner turrets of the original Edo castle make the gardens worth the visit with several spots to view them. 

The others were packing and breakfasting so we nipped on the underground to Hamarikyu Gardens. The first impact was the bad smell as the moat and ponds are fed from the sea and it must be low tide. Walking over the bridge to the entrance showed quite oil stained river banks. Not a great start to this 17th century Shogun residence. Beautiful gardens to walk round though and the smell didn’t linger. Tree lined walk ways, duck hides and Edo style houses to look round. 

We crossed the bridges under the shade of the Wisteria trellis to the Nakajima Tea House for Drayaki Matcha set and sat crossed legged on the tatami mats to drink the matcha tea and red bean paste buns. 

From here we headed to Asakusa for sushi with everyone at Kura Sushi. Gemini AI and Tomoko helped me with vegetarian suggestions and each course came rattling along the conveyer belt including a birthday cake. 

Kappa Maki: Simple cucumber and rice rolls wrapped in nori seaweed.

Natto Gunkan: Fermented soybeans on rice wrapped with seaweed.

Shinko Maki / Takuan Roll: Pickled daikon radish rolls.

Kanpyo Maki: Dried and seasoned calabash gourd strips wrapped with rice and nori.

Inarizushi: Sweet deep-fried tofu pockets filled with vinegared rice.

Everyone was full so just Andy and I went for ice cream. Mascarpone and orange for me. Sweet potato for Andy. Both really nice. 

We found the others at the Sensō-ji shrine and walked about doing bits of shopping. 

Fleur de Sarrasin pancake place for tea. Camembert cheese (apple jam, apple honey, walnuts) for me, little rolled up pieces of filled pancakes just perfect for picking up with chop sticks. For pudding I had red bean paste with ice cream on the side. We all shared bits with Ella. 

We said goodbye to everyone and headed to Omoide Yokocho Memory Lane which is post war Tokyo and at night the narrow alleyways come to life with lanterns and smokey eateries. It’s very much a tourist place but lovely to walk through. From here we headed to Godzilla Head high up on the buildings and lit up. A bit of fun. 

Andy had read about the lights show at the Shinjuku Southern Terrace. We walked along it but nothing to see, turns out the events are seasonal. Great to see all the neon signs and Tokyo alive at night but good not to stay too long in it all.  We’d headed back to pack. 

20th May Wednesday. Day 23. Heading home. 12:15 Tokyo to 19:10 Amsterdam. 22:40 AMS to 22:50 Leeds.

Up early and off to Nippori station. Andy bought the airport train tickets whilst I waited first in the queue for morning menu at Traditional Cafe ‘Tomorrow’. Cheese toast, boiled egg and coleslaw with coffee. 

I was delighted to find a vending machine selling ice creams. I’d realised yesterday I’d not had one as yet. Seventeen Ice, raisin butter crunch. Not bad for a mass produced ice cream and quite sweet and tasty with the promised crunch. We were using up our last pennies from our sucia cards so both bought teas from the vending machine. A guy asked if they took credit cards and it was great to buy him the drink. 

The skyliner train is raised up so we could see the other train lines beneath us in the station then had good views across the buildings of the city as we speeded east. The TV screen switched to a camera at the front of the train so we could see the train tracks as as well as views either side. 

Very straightforward getting through bag and passport check and we were sat at our gate 2 hours before our departure time. Coffee, walk about and boarded on time. 13.5 hour packed flight. 

Lunch of salad, curry and rice pudding. 

Sung Song Blue, snooze, The Testament of Ann Lee, sandwich, Juror #2, Betty Bossi breakfast was similar to tea. 

I love the way we hugged the eastern coast of Russia, slipped in between there and Alaska before flying over Greenland and down the eastern backbone of the uk into Amsterdam. 

We had an announcement 3 hours before we landed to say the toilet tanks were filling up so they closed some of the toilets!

3.5 hours in Amsterdam. We found some benches to stretch out on. It was 8pm here but 3am in Tokyo. A short final short hop to Leeds and taxi home. Stunning sunset colours as we flew home but I slept through must of it except the cheesy biscuits of course! 

Amazing holiday. Wonderful experience. Great to see family as well as explore. 

195. Minano 50k. 10th May 2026

Minano 50k. 32.3 miles, 9:59:46, 2,666 m of climb, 18.33 minute miling. 369th out of 575. 58th of 102 ladies, 15th of 32 in age, 312nd of 473 men, 99th of 163.  Completion rate: 89.4% (Men: 88.3%, Women: 94.1%). 123nd ultra, 195th marathon

Alarm was set for 5:00! Coffee on, breakfast eaten as we dressed and became race ready. One of Andy’s new water bottles had a split it, we bought a 500ml bottle of water on the way to the start so he had the required 1 litre. Out by 5:50. Luckily Andy realised he’d forgotten his phone before we got very far. I kept walking to the 7 eleven for the water. Several people in race kit were buying food. 

Andy handed in our post race bags as I joined the loo queue. He ended up chatting to an Italian in his loo queue. Photos, drum band as a warm up and into pen B. 2 American airforce guys chatted to us both feeling unprepared, they were as they dropped out at the 4th checkpoint. 

If you don’t like heights or steep drop offs then this race might not be for you. However if you like running in forests on a soft carpet of pine needles or golden leaves. With shafts of sunlight guiding your way as you zigzag steeply up a hill to find an amazing view of green hills and valleys at the top.  With ancient shrines and guardian stones appearing when you least expect them, and seeing other runners pause to bow their head in respect as they pass beneath the Torii gate. With well stocked checkpoints every 4 or 5 miles and cheering marshals spread frequently along the way ready to high 5 you. Then maybe you should be on the start line next year. 

4 tough hills that everytime we thought we were at the top would have a cheeky down hill or 2 before finally reaching the top. The heat didn’t help, my watch said 31 degrees at one point but I wasn’t checking it frequently. Luckily we were in the shade of the trees a lot or there was a welcome breeze near the top. There were long sections of tarmac or concrete trails but we’d been warned of that. People were friendly chatting in English to us or high fiving Andy as he encouraged lots of people to do. 

We saw 2 rescue teams in action. One near a road side the other we didn’t see the injured person but a rescue person came running up the hill towards us. That was just after a really tricky ridge line with very steep drop off and we’d been told to walk it. The path was crumbling in sections or we scrambled up or down boulders so there wasn’t much running going on. I got told off for running but was just walking quickly to catch up with Andy on an easier section. I had forgotten we weren’t allowed to walk. 

The Japanese are very polite and don’t like to go past you or ask to go by. There was a lot of single track so mini queues formed. There was also narrow track quite early on which meant we had a stop start progress initially and one section of steep narrow steps that we all queued for. We stood to the side at times to allow people to pass and when we got caught behind people we’d be patient until a wide section then we’d speed past but that was general on the descents. On the ascents we were happy to go with the slower flow but often couldn’t really go faster with the heat and steepness. We both really struggled at times but Andy’s Achilles really didn’t like the gradient. I looked at Andy’s pale, sweat dripping face at one point and thought I’d seen him look like he was struggling badly before but couldn’t think where. Luckily it was as he was skipping off down the next descent happily chatting away that I remembered him having heat stroke on the Dragons Back but that time he wasn’t making sense and today he was. 

The checkpoints being so frequent meant we didn’t have to carry too much fluid but I probably should have filled both 500ml bottles more often. They had the choice of barley tea, sports drink and water. They’d give you a cup of coke but didn’t like to fill your bottle, I was lucky at the first checkpoint with that but afterwards it was always just a cups worth. I’d hoped to try more of their food but despite a reassuring email back from the race organisers telling me it would just be the pork soup at checkpoint 3 i couldn’t have I decided not to risk it knowing they don’t seem to think fish is off limits over here. I did have a couple of bean paste dumplings though. I was carrying a couple of pastries and a bag of soft donuts as well as my trusty chia chews and had more than enough fuel. 

The third checkpoint was back at the race registration site as there’s a 30km race that start a couple of hours after us. They just do the first loop. It felt so cruel being back at base and having to go out and do another 14 miles. Within the first mile of leaving that checkout we spotted the race leader coming in! 5 hours 25! We all had race numbers on with our names but sadly we couldn’t read the Japanese names. They also had the elevation profile on upside down so you could read it as you run and see the distance and where checkpoints were. Very useful although we had what we needed on our watches. 

We’d hoped to finish in 8 hours but the heat and stiff climbs really slowed us down. The enforced slower pace was good for me as I felt strong. As we got to the final water station and knew it was mostly flat 4.5 miles to the finish I knew I could run it. I didn’t want to put pressure on Andy but he was doing the same as me and working out what speed we would need to run at to finish under 10 hours. I didn’t think we’d do it but he really pushed it and we sped round 3 sides of baseball ground and then held hands as we ran under the finish arch in 9:59:46!

Photos taken and round to the main finish area. There was a fan with a hosepipe round it with holes in spraying water. Andy stopped for a soak. We got our race certificates and finish bag but didn’t need to change clothes. There were food stalls and I headed straight to the ice cream van as I knew the chocolate shop I’d hoped to get ice cream in would be shut before I got there. Black honey kinako (soybean flour made into cornflakes). I didn’t get pictures of the brand etc so it won’t be going on my list. Andy got a massive pile of shaved ice with a sauce to poor over it. Very strange and cold but lots of runners were having it. Really pleased with what we achieved a lovely race. Very friendly and well organised. 

Run time 4:53:00, Walk time 4:29:35, Idle time 37:51

Andy had hoped to go for a dip in the river but it was too far down and he wasn’t sure if it was safe to get in. He went straight back to the accommodation and I bought food for tea on the way and nibbled on peanuts and fruit juice. He was shattered so had a soak in the hot tub and I, after showering, headed down to the laundrette. There were basic instructions to put your money in first but water starting pouring in so I rushed to put the clothes in. When I translated the instructions it said that you needed to wash the machine first then add clothes, odd! I kept looking in and it seemed to fill up eventually so I left it working its magic. I walked to Hotto Motto next door as they sell bento boxes but it just looked like a fast food place. I was looking for breakfast ideas so nipped to 7-Eleven. I found some hard boiled eggs as well as a couple of salads and rice triangles. Back to dry the clothes and 20 minutes later I was walking back for tea. 

I’d bought noodles, beans and mushrooms again but asked someone for help in finding miso. Andy made soup with the miso and heated up the rest. Perfect but 20:30 so I was ready to go to bed after I’d eaten. It was hard to get to sleep with throbbing feet and restless legs. It was also warm so I pushed my duvet back and slept under the sheet initially.

194. Hardmoors 55. 21st March 2026

Hardmoors 55. 53.73 miles, 13.05.52, 2,432 m of climb, 14.38 minute mileing. 147th of 313. (270 finishers), 26th lady of 66, 10th in age of 19. 122nd ultra, 194th marathon

What an amazing magical day out on the Hardmoors 55. Low cloud in the valleys, sunshine along the cliffs, gorgeous views, a steady plod and on long picnic. As usual I was strong on the climbs, confident on the descents and steady on the flats which is where I always get overtaken. I spent most of the start of the day catching people up for them to disappear only for me to catch them up again when they walked as I was happy with my steady 4.5 mile an hours pace. It was up and over the 3 sisters where I lost a lot of them as I strongly climbed up.
Andy was marshalling in a few places as he’s giving his Achilles time to heal. It seemed strange not to be sharing the journey with him.
I finally caught Colin up on Carlton Moor and we ran into Osmotherley together. I was pretty quick getting sorted helped by no vegetation pizza so I was out the door before him. I knew I was carrying more food than I needed so didn’t need to wait for the pizza.
Mini quorn sausages worked a treat as did the onion bhaji’s and veggie samosas. The cheese and onion rolls were too dry with the pastry. My usual method of eating something every hour as a minimum really helped, I only felt wobbly near the end and eating resolved that. I topped up at most of the water stations. Coke in one bottle. Water with electrolytes in the other. It was a warm day up there!
Usually the second half of an ultra I have to keep nudging myself to remember to run when it’s flat but today I just kept running even up gentle climbs. It felt so natural. I really felt like the few people I saw out on the course just wanted me to reel them in as I slowly overtook. A quick sit at Sneck Yate where Andy was marshalling to add my spare base layer and get my head torch out. I forgot to empty my bin pocket once again, it was full of other people’s rubbish! Luckily a marshal took it from me at Sutton Bank.
Near Sutton Bank I lost the top of coke bottle so had to drink 200mls of sticky coke as it was spilling everywhere. I knew I’d be fine with just one more bottle for the last section.
I was looking at my timing and comparing them to Andy’s times from last year which I was using as a guide. I was slowly getting ahead and knew the solid ground was helping me fly compared to his muddy drizzly finish last year.
I was amazed to get to The White Horse checkpoint before it was fully dark. I don’t think I’ve ever done that before perhaps my faster times were running south north rather than this years north south.
I was delighted to get to Helmsley just over 13 hours and realised it was my third fastest time of the 7 events I’ve done! Straight in the cold shower before food and tea. A chat with a few people but I was keen to get home.

A massive thanks to all the marshals and Jon and Shirley for making this happen.

193. Hardmoors 26.2 Saltburn trail marathon. 1st Feb 2026.

Hardmoors 26.2 Saltburn trail marathon. 28.87 miles, 1,261m of ascent. 7.12.31. 89th of 115. 17th lady. 6th in age. 72nd marathon.

Andy was 2nd in last years Gram Slam so he picked up his trophy. Mud glorious mud from the cliff tops above the sea and inland to the woods above Guisborough. It felt a slower day than last year even though we were close to last years times at the first couple of checkpoints. The weather forecast kept improving all week but still promised a touch of rain but it wasn’t to be instead we had clear skies and a really good running temperature all day. Lots of daft people in shorts and t-shirts and even I stripped down to just 2 long sleeved tops within a few miles, although by half way this went back on. It was wonderful heading into checkpoints where the marshals know your name and a lovely surprise to see Tim and Sally Ayres at the 3rd checkpoint.

I love the race profile which just looks like one steep climb up after another but except for after the first climb you never come back down to sea level until the end so the climbs aren’t ever that bad except for the Tees Link which of course falls right at the end of the day and is usually the worse bog fest climb of the route. It wasn’t too bad and knowing that it was mostly down hill from there was a real motivator. We were both pleased with our grippy shoes. I had some old (2018) Scott Supertrac Ultra XC which were great and didn’t let me down. I’ve stopped wearing them though as they felt too narrow, well taped up toes did the trick and they are only a little sore post run.

New Zealand & Australia December 2025 to January 2026

Monday 8th December 

Our two train trip to London went smoothly. We had a lunchtime catch up with Callum (my nephew) and Ash to meet baby Evie. 

Made time for ice cream then met Pete at the original bronze Paddington statue in Leicester Square. He took us on a ‘Snoopy in the City’ adventure (looking for 10 Snoopy statues) before meeting up with my other London based nephew Kieran for a quick after work/pre-theatre drink. 

London is quite magical this time of year despite the rain. Lots of Christmas lights and markets but too many people!

It was a bit of a mad dash to the Savoy Theatre, making marmalade sandwiches on the way, to see Paddington the Musical. If you like the first film you will LOVE this. Such a gorgeous heartwarming fun production with catchy songs and fantastic performances. Can’t wait to see it again!

After a train & bus ride we arrived at the Premier Inn near Heathrow just before pumpkin time. 

Tuesday 9th December 10:40 Heathrow to 07:50 Singapore (13 hours 10 minute flight, 8 hours ahead)

It was a short hop in the bus to Terminal  by 2, straight through bag check with our ‘7kg’ hand luggage rucksacks. I can’t remember when I was last on such a big plane with so many films to choose from. Our economy seats were comfortable and we were served amazing Indian vegetarian food. 

I got a few people joining me in exercising & stretching in the queue for the loo. 

Wednesday 10th December 08:45 Singapore to 23:30 Auckland (9 hours 45 flight, 5 more hours ahead)

We only had a short walk between gates at Singapore airport and we’re smoothly through bag check. More films, food, turbulence and sleep. On flight WiFi!

We finally landed in Auckland about 35 mins early and were nearly the first one through immigration, as we had no checked in luggage to collect. We had to go through ‘something to declare’ lane as we’ve worn our shoes in the English countryside. The sniffer dog liked the smell of Andy’s little bag that had had sandwiches & fruit in before. It was a 15 minute flat, warm walk to the ibis budget Auckland Airport. We arrived after midnight and we were straight to sleep in our twin beds. 

Thursday 11th December, day 4. Auckland to Taupo

Mixed amount of sleep but I was awake by 7am. Bus then train to Auckland centre, tap on/tap off to pay. We walked to The EOS Coffee for breakfast and Mark Prebble met us there not long after.

We had a 2 hour wander around the harbour front in Auckland including an ice cream stop. Lovely views across to the islands, massive yachts in the harbour and interesting information boards about the history of the area. We then went back into the city centre to catch our 12:30 bus.

Intercity bus to Taupo, 5 hours. Lovely rolling green countryside, lots of trees, Māori statues, cows, deer, wide rivers and hills in the distance. A few stops in towns along the way such as Hamilton. We were grateful for the aircon as it had been 25 degrees whilst we walked around earlier. Blue skies but a fair amount of clouds. There was a 30 minute break in Tokoroa. 

On the way into Taupo there were large silver pipes on both sides of the road often going in random directions with sharp bends in them. Turns out they are geothermal pipelines. We could see steam rising up from the ground in one area so this made sense. 

Taupo town is beautifully situated on the edge of the lake and quite flat with hills around. The bus dropped us off at about 17:30. We checked into the hostel and then headed straight out for food at Pita Pit. Neither of us wanted a big, hot meal. Lovely bowel full of salad, beans and falafel for me. Filled pitta for Andy. 

We then wandered to the Te Atea – Tapuaeharuru statue where the Taupō township meets the lakeshore. We followed the lakeside for a while, up into one of the parks before heading back to the hostel, shopping for food on the way. We had a good view of  a nice sunset from the balcony at the Haka House Hostel. Starting to feel tired again.

Friday 12th December, day 5. Taupō

I was awake a few times over night but up at 8. Breakfast on the hostel deck overlooking the lake. 

We decided to go for a gentle walk and followed the lakeshore left around the bay. A few others were out on the tarmac path walking, running or cycling but not many. A few people were even swimming. There were chunks of grey pumice dotted around us. We passed a couple of signs warning of thermal streams. Andy tested Onekeneke Stream with his toes, despite me pointing out the rising steam, he was shocked how hot the water was!

We were surprised how many black swans there were with their bright red beaks – apparently there is a stable population of about 1,000 in the lake. There were kilometres markers along the path despite the bays being called Two Mile Bay etc. All along the way there were holiday lets, private houses, the occasional café or restaurant but not overly populated with plenty of empty parks covered in trees and plants. Lovely views south to the Tongariro range. We reached Wharewaka Point (Four Mile Bay) for good views back into Tapuaehauru bay and Taupō (“toe-paw”). 

We headed in land a little to find Lil Lunas Gelateria. I’d had all the ice cream flavours so chose Feijol sorbet, a citrus fruit. We’d walked over 5 miles and knew there were no buses back so tried to hitch. We walked a good 20 minutes when finally a landscaper called Shane, who coming out of a side road took pity on us, and dropped us near the hostel. This gave us plenty of time to grab bags and head to The Cozy Corner for lunch. Amazing chilli omelette for me and ‘happy camper’ poached eggs on toast for Andy. 

We’d booked with Sail Barbury to head out into Lake Taupō to see the Ngātoroirangi Māori carvings. Built in 1926 from native New Zealand kauri and once owned by actor Errol Flynn. The yacht ‘Barbary’ has been carefully restored and upgraded with sustainable sailing in mind, it’s the first electric yacht in New Zealand – which is why we chose this tour. 2.5 hours out in the lake that was once a super volcano. We needed electric power to get to the rock art then the wind picked up to carry us back. We’d sat at the front on the way out enjoying the sun and views. Andy swapped with a couple of lasses on the way back and they ended up getting splashed and cold at the front as the boat tilted into the wind. 

The 10 metre high Mine Bay Māori Rock Carvings can only be reached by boat. The carvings were completed in the late 1970’s and is a likeness of Ngātoroirangi, a visionary Māori navigator who guided the Tūwharetoa and Te Arawa tribes to the Taupō area over a thousand years ago. Very impressive. To the side are other carvings depicting tupuna (ancestors) and kaitiaki (guardians) that are pivotal to the history of the local Maori tribe. 

We had a swim from the side of the boat. Most people jumped in and it was freezing but refreshing. 

Back to Taupō and we walked up to race registration, getting our numbers and goodie bags with electrolyte sachets and cans of drinks in. We bought pizzas to cook at the hostel and got ready for race day. I’m not sure if walking 12 miles is good preparation for a 50km race though!  Alarm set for 04:30 as the race starts at 6am.

Saturday 13th December, day 6. Try Off Road Taupō 50KM ULTRA TRAIL RUN. 30.82 miles, 1,060m of ascent. 7:46:54. 

We were up at 4:30 and walked to the Spa Thermal Park for the 5:45 race briefing. There was little a collection of gazebos & food vans gathered around the start area and over looking the steamy river, was it steamy due to the cold morning air or hot springs entering it? It was quite a small event with only 260 competitors taking part across the triathlon, 10k, 26k and ultra. A prompt 6am start for the ultra. We followed the river bank but were mostly sheltered by trees on the undulating dusty track. We loved every glimpse of the wild Waikato river beneath us and stopped frequently for photos as others ran on by. It’ll be interesting to see our moving time compared to race finish time. Soon we were crossing the river and passing the massive silver geothermal pipes, we’d seen on the bus ride to Taupō, before climbing up into the pine trees. We were in mountain bike country with twisting, turning, narrow tracks to follow within the pine trees on steep hillsides. We had the route on our watches but there were plenty of yellow event signs with black arrows pointing the way. 

Suddenly we were in the open an area of new pine tree growth with lots of colourful plants especially purple lupines. No real smell even the pine didn’t stand out. The zigzagging of our tracks was very noticeable here as we could see people dotted ahead and behind on various paths, you couldn’t always work out how far off they were. The tracks almost touched in places so it would have been easy to make a few significant shortcuts! 

Then we were flying down again and I embraced my inner mountain bike rider and swooshed down the bends. It was wonderful and good fun. 

We climbed again to a marshal who handed us green wrist bands and pointed us to the left track. About 6 miles later we returned to him, sadly the course repeated a 4 mile section when it could have explored somewhere different. This time we turned right and headed steeply down to the geothermal plant and a lot of flat running and into the ‘craters of the moon’ area. We didn’t explore as much here as I’d expected to. I’d got sticky fingers from my jam and nut butter wrap so was pleasantly surprised when I washed my hands and discovered that the small stream was warm. We followed this stream for a while.  I saw a couple of sections of steam rising from the ground but had expected to see much more of the whole geothermal area. We didn’t end up on any of the boardwalks or viewing platforms, so I’m quite disappointed that the race details say ‘ a thrilling 24k loop through the Craters of the Moon.’!

I had to loosen my left shoelaces as my shoe felt tight across my forefoot but the pain in my foot intensified initially then seemed to settle on the flat. Andy’s ankle was becoming increasingly painful. We were reduced to walking or slow jogging for the last third of the race. This gave us time to appreciate the greenery around us with glimpses through to the gorgeous wide blue river. We soon crossed the road by the Aratiatia Dam, 3 hours ahead of the cut off but 30 minutes too early for the scheduled water release. We crossed the road for views & photos from both sides of the bridge, as the water was so impressive as though they were releasing it. 

The checkpoints were frequent, every 5 to 10k, and had water and electrolytes plus crisps, pretzels and sweets. They also had factor 50 sunscreen which I used at most places. I’d burnt a little in a few places yesterday I guess after the swim and didn’t want to aggregate it. 

Lovely river views from time to time as we took the higher track to the finish. Back on mountain bike tracks so lots of zigzags. The landscape was different again here with older, tall pine trees with brown lower limbs creating a softer track where they’d fallen. There also seemed to be so much more bird song here. 

I’d noticed a sign about traps to remove pests so they can protect the native wildlife, an animal possibly a stoat hung from a trap near the sign. 

We’d not seen anyone since the steady stream of people overtaking us on the flat tracks around the 20 mile mark so we were surprised that someone appeared behind us just as we entered the Spa park and the finish line appeared. Such a good feeling to finish, very happy with sore feet. Medals, checkpoint snacks plus low carb beer and fizzy drinks. I found an ice cream vendor too, amazing!

We headed down to the river where Otumuheke Stream hot (lukewarm) springs feed into some pools by the river. So lovely to sit in the water. Andy went into the edge of the fast flowing river. It was a lot colder there so I sat with my legs in the cold water and my body in the warmer bit. 

We didn’t stay for the 3pm prize giving. Andy headed straight to the hostel, I bought food to cook there so we could just relax! I spotted some ‘fruit mince tarts’ which I presume are mince pies, Christmas will be festive after all.

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Sunday 14th December, day 7. Tongariro crossing and night bus to Wellington 

I was last here 28 years ago with my parents. It was a cloudy day with strong winds. Dad had to hold onto Mum as the wind had knocked her over and we had a narrow steep sided ridge to climb. The Tongariro Alpine crossing is New Zealand’s best one day walk. It’s been protected land since 1887 and the world’s 4th national park in 1894. In 1993, Tongariro became the first place in the world to be inscribed on the World Heritage List under the revised criteria describing cultural landscapes.

Another 4:40 alarm with a minibus picking us up at 5:10 for a 90 minute drive. As we approached our drop off both sides of the road were scorched from fires last week, we’d not been sure if they would allow the hike. 

We were given maps to let us know what to expect of the terrain and distances. We had to get to the finish pick up point by 3pm, this gave us 8 hours to do 13 miles with 1297 m of ascent, we took 6.5 hours, the same as when I was here with my 60 year old parents! 

As we approached the route clouds hung over the summits. I wondered if it would be another viewless crossing for me like last time but they soon burned off. Initially a gradual climb over the lava fields. We were the only ones to take a detour to the Soda Springs which are cold water waterfalls creating a colourful oasis contrasting against the dry dark rock everywhere else. 

A steep climb up to the glacier carved South Crater at 1,660m with the impressive Mt Ngauruahoe (Mt Doom) volcano to our right, it last erupted in 1977. We could just see someone going up it although our maps warned us it was a scared area and out of bounds. 

A short walk across the flat South Crater then up the steep Red Crater ridge with its steep sides and loose sandy surface, red rocks everywhere. It was much less windy than last time. Lovely views around especially of a massive vent in the side of Red Crater. Over the top of Red Crater summit and high point (1886m) of the day we looked down on the Emerald Lakes, steam seeping out from the rocks around. We could also see across to the massive Blue Lake that I’d not seen before. We had to slip, slide down to the Emerald Lakes with the path being very loose sand and rocks. Stunning lakes, amazing setting and a very strong sulphur smell. 

We crossed the very flat crater but kept stopping to look back to take in the changing views as clouds swirled round or the sun shone on it all. Just incredible scenery, amazing strong contrasting colours. 

We paused by Blue Lake to eat. Our legs were tired from yesterday which helped encourage us not to rush but we were easily ahead of the schedule. I’m not sure how many but there were lots of people around us so there was always a line of people on the very well maintained tracks. There were lots of drop toilets too to encourage people not to pollute the fragile landscape. 

From Blue Lake we were essentially heading down on a long never ending zigzag. The landscape changed quickly around us from low to shoulder height shrub. Not far from where lava damaged Ketetahi hut used to be we went down some steps and suddenly it was dense trees and ferns everywhere. We got glimpses of a stream as we went further down which became the gorgeous Ketetahi Falls, worth the slight detour, down then back up! The descent to the car park felt hard on my feet being solid dry earth so I was pleased to get to the bottom just after 13:30. 

We didn’t have to wait long for the bus to fill and we were back at the hostel not long after 3. Showers, washing on which quickly dried in the heat. Food and a walk to the lake front for ice cream. The bus to Wellington doesn’t leave until just after midnight so we relaxed and made some plans.

Monday 15th December, day 8. Ferry to South Island 3.5 hours 52 miles, bus to Nelson. 

We’d had an email to inform us our ‘Gold’ bus to Wellington wasn’t running so we were being transferred to a regular bus. This gave us limited space between seats and leg room and meant neither of us got much sleep in the 6.5 hours journey from Taupo to Wellington. We decided not to walk to the ferry as we were 30 minutes late arriving in town. I’d been craving something healthy to eat and Andy surprised me with some carrots, perfect. He’d also made jam and nut butter sandwiches. 

We didn’t need to check our bags in, bizarrely my boarding pass was for a Sarah Moran but Andy was Norman. A coffee whilst we waited to board. 

Andy found seats with good views of our journey to the South Island. I bought more coffee. A gentle sailing across the Cook Strait, which been described as “one of the most dangerous and unpredictable waters in the world”. I bought a cooked breakfast for us to share as we entered the Marlborough Sounds and a narrow winding passageway to Picton. I was pleased to have stayed awake for the full journey. 

A short walk to the bus stop and across the road was a sign saying ‘handmade ice cream’, luckily we had enough time to purchase one. We got front seats on the bus to Nelson! Initially wine country with vineyards stretching out to the hills beyond. We went through a few towns, the bus driver was very chatty and proud of the local mussels. We steeply climbed up into pine tree covered hills of the Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve. Gorgeous green countryside, could have been Scotland or Wales. A heavily laden cyclist looked like they were struggling in the ascent, we hoped they have good brakes for the descent!

Down to Nelson which began as a Māori settlement around the 12th century (Whakatū), before the New Zealand Company established it as New Zealand’s second planned European city in 1841, named after Admiral Lord Nelson. 

We checked into Tasman Bay Backpackers and walked up to the ‘Centre of New Zealand’. A landmark above the city at the top of a tree covered hill, more zigzags. It is the centre because it is the origin point of the Nelson Land District as used by surveyors, and Nelson is the central land district of the country hence the ‘Centre of New Zealand’. Nice views across the massive bay. It started to spit a bit, we’d also had strong winds earlier but they weren’t too bad now. 

We weaved down to the Maitai river valley and into town. The buildings here are noticeably older than Taupō but it’s still a traditional neat grid system. The heart of Nelson is Pikimai Hill or Church Hill where the cathedral sits. It’s not much of a hill but the bell tower stands out peering through the tree covered ‘hill’. The cathedral is built from very grey granite! Down from here is South Street is New Zealand’s oldest fully preserved street from 1863. A few pretty wooden cottages, nicely painted. 

We were hungry so headed to Nysa Nelson Turkish Restaurant. Meze platter and grilled halloumi cheese, just perfectly tasty food. 

Back via Woolworths for food for tomorrow’s hike. Back to pack up and an early night. They have free hot chocolate pudding with ice cream at 8pm, the idea is you turn off your phone and chat for an hour. Sadly it wasn’t ethical chocolate and we were too tired to socialise.

Tuesday 16th December, day 9. Abel Tasman coastal track. Medlands Beach to Apple Tree Bay. 14.2 miles, 768m of ascent, 5 hours 45. 

A wet and wild start to the day, low cloud hid most of the views as we caught the 07:10 bus from Nelson to Kaiteriteri. 

We’d planned to go out on the 9am boat but we rescheduled to 10:30 to let the weather clear. We’d planned and booked with Abel Tasman Sea shuttle and they suggested we walk the southern section of the hike today rather than going to the furthest north section in the choppy waters. 

We handed our bags into the Kaiteriteri Lodge and had coffee and cake in the Waterfront cafe watching the sky clearing but the rain still falling. 

The boat wasn’t just a shuttle to take us up the coast, they stopped at various bays along the way to talk about the history, wildlife and geology. It’s a rugged coast line with houses pocking out from the trees before the start of the national park. We paused at Split Apple bay, the boat skipper talked about the separated granite with iron mixed into it to make the sand golden, plus showed us the stone giving the bay its name telling us the Māori origin story. At Adele Island we could see New Zealand sea lions. On to Anchorage Bay where we switched boats.  

We were dropped at Medland Bay at 11:30. The sign suggested 3 hours 50 back to Anchorage Bay, 6.25 miles. I nipped to the toilets and flies buzzed about me, I don’t think I got bitten. 

Well signed and maintained paths with drainage ditches, all just slightly muddy from the rain. Black bark which we weren’t sure if it was from fires or the species here. The path had been carved from the side of the hill and soon moved inland and undulated as it weaved along. We were under the cover of trees and ferns so enjoyed the views when a gap appeared. The rain had stopped as we started walking and it was soon warm and muggy. There was a 5 minute out and back trip to South Head for gorgeous views. We soon realised why the walk takes so long with 2 side trips in the first mile. 

It was a peaceful walk we saw a few people but not many. We could hear the occasional birds but mainly the sound off crashing waves. We saw a lot of very tame Weka birds walking on the path the us, we’d been warned how greedy they are. 

Lots of little bridges with one big suspension bridge. Up and down to beaches. Just lovely. 

At Torent Bay we crossed the beach as the tide was out. We missed the crossing point at first as it was taped off. A few people were walking over trying to avoid getting wet feet in the shallow streams, we just walked through. Not far from here was Anchorage Bay. We were really early for our boat so walked out to Pitt Head Lookout and Te Pukatea Bay. We wished we booked onto the boat at the next pickup point there’s no phone reception but Andy realised the earlier boat was due in so we headed back to the beach and asked the skipper if this was possible, turned out it would be this boat on its return so he was happy with that. We had 4.5 miles to do in 2 hours up the big hill and then we couldn’t resist going along nearly every side track. We arrived at the very sunny Apple Tree Bay 10 minutes before the boat was due. This has been a gorgeous day such a lovely track to follow. 

Back to Kaiteriteri for ice cream, check in, shower and pizza for tea. We met up with Schluppy a guy I know from my time living in York in 1993, he played in a band Rites of Man that I used to follow. Lovely evening catching up.

Wednesday 17th December, day 10. Abel Tasman national park. Gibbs Hill to Separation Point from Totaranui. 14.11 miles, 900m of climb, 5 hours. 

Gorgeous sunshine, 9am boat nearly full on top. Such a smooth sailing and much clearer views across the bay. Lots of seals on Adele Island too. Several groups of kayakers out. We’d decided that as we have a 3 day pass for the boats we might as well head to the furthest north drop off point at Totaranui and explore. 

We could then do the other half of the coastal track tomorrow. Andy had worked out a circular walk round the headland taking us up Gibbs Hill initially. We had good signposts again but not always mentioning our destination. 

Tree covered hills around us as we climbed up the 4×4 track, we had plenty of stunning views through them. We joined the Inland Track just before Gibbs Hill and were rewarded with wonderful views across Golden Bay further north. To get to the actual summit of Gibbs Hill there was a steep climb on a little used path to the repeater station but the views weren’t any better. 

Our path weaved in, out and round the north of the headland and out to Separation Point for our last good views north. The track was really narrow in places to get to Separation Point with steep tree lined drops either side of us then a steep stepped descent down to the rocks of Separation Point. We made good time on the undulating path and didn’t slow much on either a couple of beach crossings or rocky bays. It’s lovely how the route gave such variation with the views and terrain. 

There were occasional drops of rain despite the sunshine, it didn’t get heavy until just before we before we got back to Totaranui when hail was hitting us. Luckily it was warm. We sheltered a little while in the campground information hut before our 16:15 boat arrived. It was a dry sunny 90 minute journey back, we booked our boat transfers for tomorrow. 

Turns out the black bark we’ve seen is the Black Beech tree. It’s a naturally occurring fungus, it’s meant to have a honey like aroma. The black mould grows on this sweet by product of an insect that feeds on the bark. 

Limited options for food even in the small shop so we ate at the Beached Whale Restaurant & Bar next door to our lodge. Fish & chips for Andy, Aubergine parmigiana for me. Time to relax.

Thursday 18th December, day 11. Abel Tasman coastal track. Medlands Beach to Awaroa beach. 10.4 miles, 553 m of ascent. 3 hours 16. Back to Nelson. 

9am ferry. It was cloudier today but the top deck was still full. Andy had asked yesterday on the boat about tides for today and was told low tide at Awaroa was 13:30 which was the perfect amount of time for us to get to Totaranui for the 2:30 boat. We had 4.5 hours to do 10 miles but when Andy put the route on our watches it turned out to be 12.85 miles! We’ll let Sea Shuttle know their brochure is missing a few km on this stretch. 

We were dropped off at Medlands Beach and headed north. It was very busy with people heading towards us probably having stayed at one of the local huts. Great views of the coastline and trees around us as we weaved in land and back to walk along beaches. We knew we were tight for time so jogged down the hills and some of the flats, still stopping frequently to soak in the atmosphere or try, unsuccessfully, to identify the bird calls on my Merlin app, turns out I needed an internet connection. Andy had just remarked that he was surprised there weren’t any other runners when a guy appeared running up the zigzags below us. ‘You are my people’ he excitedly exclaimed, he high-fived us and ran on. 

We’d heard about glow worms in a cave at Onetahuti beach accessible at low tide. They’d not heard of them on the boat and 2 guys on the beach that worked for a different boat company weren’t sure where we’d see them but reminded us it was high tide. They did say we’d probably see them in caves around the country at night. 

As we approached Awaroa around 12:30 we could see the tide was a long way in. We checked the tide tables and realised it was 15:46, you can’t cross until 90 minutes before that so we’d miss our boat. We chatted to a couple of people and they said we could cut across the side beach to the Awaroa beach boat pickup which was a relief as it was 90 minutes to go the long way back but only 10 minutes that way. We had to wade through a shallow river but it wasn’t up to our knees. The day had gone from cloudy to gorgeous sunshine. A couple of cheeky Torea Pango’s (variable oystercatchers) flew around us in a threatening way, I guess we were too close to their nests!

We sat a while on the beach then headed to the Awaroa eco lodge for coffee, Andy had iced chocolate and we shared bread and dips. I overheard someone talking about the pizza place 5 minutes away. I asked if they had ice cream, they did but they weren’t sure if the machine was still working. I walked up and the staff weren’t sure of the brand of the base ice cream as there was no name on the label. They messaged the boss but no reply came through and I needed to head back to the beach for the boat! Andy headed off as they made me a mixed fruit ice cream, just in case it can go on the spread sheet. 

The tide was going out so the boat had to pull in at a different spot luckily closer to where the path met the beach so I had plenty of time to board it. My feet were already damp so I didn’t mind that they couldn’t quite dock on the beach, most people had taken their shoes off. Andy had already emailed the office to say we’d be boarding here and not Totaranui as arranged. They are good at checking everyone expected is on board and radio in if it’s any different to what they expect. 

It has been the most beautiful 3 days of hiking. We’ve just loved the routes, the side trips, the magical views that suddenly appear, the hilly, tree covered landscape and the tuneful birdsong. The boat crew have been very helpful and friendly. 

Back to Kaiteriteri to pick up our bags. The hostel had a space by the side entrance for left luggage, phew they were still there. Hunter took us back to Nelson. Food shopping, showers, tea, waited for reception to open to get change for the washing machine then clothes wash and relax. We were given a disability room with ramp access, walk in shower and lower toilet. I wonder if they save this room for post Abel Tasman trampers. 

Friday 19th December, day 12. 7.15 – 13.15 bus Nelson to Greymouth, 6 hours. 

14.15 – 19.00 transalpine train to Christchurch. Jailhouse hostel. 

Very chatty bus driver talking about the floods causing a lot of damage in Nelson and the koala shaped rock in the sea. The red leaved Pōhutukawa tree is known as the New Zealand Christmas tree. The bus broke down after 30 minutes, antifreeze leakage. Luckily we were near the main depot. Someone tried to fix it but we were given a new bus, more like a minibus with a trailer for the luggage. 

Despite being 45 minutes behind schedule Mel was convinced she’d not let anyone miss their connections either by getting the office to ring ahead or because she was driving the next bus south. We had a hour’s connection so didn’t worry. Wine and hop growing region with plenty of tree felling. Gorgeous hilly countryside with the occasional town and river crossing. A little bit of rain to keep it green. Mel legally had to have 2 stops so there was a quick toilet stop in Murchison but no time for coffee. We followed the Buller river down to Westport where we had a coffee stop, sadly no new ice cream flavours. It rained heavily before and after our stop but not during it luckily. 

No time to stop and look at the pancake rocks in Punakaiki and we couldn’t see much with the rain, low cloud and steaming windows. 

We arrived in Greymouth train station just 15 minutes late so had plenty of time to check in for our train journey, we checked our big bags in too. Massive windows, plenty of space between the seats, WiFi and charging, a very comfortable journey. I logged into the website which gave me a commentary about the journey. Sadly the rain fell and low cloud hid some of the views. Initially gold and coal country with plenty of farmland and the podocarp tropical forest a type of conifer. We saw a couple of lakes with amazing waterfalls coming over a long cliff edge rather than a single stream. We had coffee and cakes in the cafe car and watched the rain pouring down but it soon cleared revealing gorgeous green countryside but the hill tops were still covered. We crossed the Alpine fault, the boundary between the Indian-Australian and the Pacific Continental Plates near Inchbonnie. 

The 8.5 km Otira Tunnel is quite steep with a climb of 359m in 14km They add 4 extra diesel engines onto the train just before it to help with the climb or in case we get stuck! We had to stay in our seats and the viewing and cafe cars were shut as we went through the tunnel. 

We had a 5 minute stop at Arthur’s pass at 739m but we were only allowed on the platform and with a coal train on the other track we couldn’t see much. 

Initially the very wide Waimakariri Valley as we rolled down towards the sea passing Lake Sarah. Steep sided hills gave us a series of viaducts and tunnels before it opened up to the Canterbury Plains. Lots of towns with names from home like Sheffield. We really enjoyed this section of the scenic journey, Andy nipped to the viewing carriage a few times for open views. I took photos through the windows hoping to avoid reflections and rain drops in the glass. 

It’s meant to rain less in the eastern side of the Southern Alps but the rain started just before we reached Christchurch at 7pm. We had a 20 minute walk to our hostel and briefly considered taking a taxi but, with rain jackets on, walked to the very interesting Jailhouse hostel. We have a double bed in our narrow cell but it’s all we need for one night. We relaxed in one of the TV rooms. We’d planned to walk around town a little but the rain put us off. We’d had plenty of food to nibble on on train and passed some shops so could have bought snacks if needed. 

We’ll be driving over from Greymouth to Christchurch in 2 weeks so hopefully we’ll get sunnier views.

Saturday 20th December, day 13. Christchurch parkrun and Godley Head. 

We met Rick, the brother of our triathlete friend Paul at Hagley parkrun. It’s the 3rd biggest urban park in the world more than enough space for a single loop parkrun. We ran from the hostel and as we arrived at the park I realised we still had a mile to go before getting to the start. Rick took us for coffee and we picked up our bags before he dropped us at Little Big Campers to collect our home for the next 2 weeks. 

We planned to explore Akaroa but Rick suggested starting at Lyttelton, Governors Bay and Diamond Harbour. Through a long tunnel under the hills from Christchurch straight to Lyttleton. At Lyttelton market we bought lunch and cherries. A quick look at the harbour area, Pilgrim’s Rock and we decided to head out to Godley Head. The hills are covered in browner grasses than we’ve been used to with the occasional patch of green trees or bushes because of the reduced rainfall.  We spotted the Godley Head loop track on the map. A 5 mile loop looking at the gorgeous views across to the Banks Peninsula and World War II coastal defence battery remnants. The hills here are all part of a dormant volcano crater rim. A lovely undulating wall. It looked like it was going to rain but it was lovely in the end. 

We drove back to Christchurch over the very green Dyers Pass Road. Rick suggested stopping at the Sign of the Kiwi Cafe on the top but it wasn’t a new brand of ice cream. Lovely views both sides of the valley though. 

We headed to The Gelato lab for an amazing Cardamom, apricot, pistachio ice cream. We food shopped for the next few days then headed to Rick and Sue’s for the evening. We were well fed and chatted about options for our on going trip. There was a massive thunderstorm so we were quite pleased not to be in the van. 

Sunday 21st December, day 14. Drive to Lake Tekapo, Mount John Track, onto Lake Pukaki, Aoraki (Mount Cook) National Park

Sue made us a cooked breakfast then we hit the road heading south over the very flat Canterbury plains crossing farm land and big glacial rivers. There were hills in the distance with snow on the top of some. We stopped in Ashburton for coffee and walked to the Ashburton Clock Tower. 

We turned off the main road onto the inland scenic road towards the hills and stopped on Geraldine at Hello Gelato for ice cream. The proprietor has just started making ice cream but it wasn’t for sale yet, luckily the gelato on sale was a new to me brand. Blueberry cheesecake, very nice. 

Over Skipton Bridge and into Mackenzie District as we weaved round the rolling green hills with higher snowed topped peaks beyond. Deer, cattle and sheep in the fields. The automatic campervan isn’t quite as powerful as ours at home but made it nicely up the hills. 

Sue and Rick recommended the pies in Fairlie at the Fairlie Bakehouse. They warned us there’d be a queue but we could skip down the side past the seating area to a hatch that served the pies too. We got a vegetarian and a vegan curry pie. Lovely puff pastry tasty pies. I sat on a table with other occupants. They were happy for us to join them as long as we kept our hands off their pies!

Into Burkes Pass a historic frontier town and up and over the pass to get amazing wide stretching views of the snowy mountains of the Aoraki (Mount Cook) National Park. Lots of lupine and fir trees along the road side to add to the beauty of the area. We parked near The Church of the Good Shepherd by Lake Tekapo. Lovely blue glacial lake with the mountains beyond. We walked to the simple church with good views over the lake. This is where the crowds were so we didn’t stay long, back to the van. We’d seen the Mount John Track along the lake side so headed to the track start rather than walking round the head of the lake through the built up area as it was already 3pm. Lovely undulating walk along the lake side as the Main Divide of the Southern Alps, the backbone of the South Island (Te Wai Pounamu) expanded ahead. There’s not much water sport on the lake but we saw a few speed boats and paddle boarders. At the far end there were great views of the mountains plus the pastures between and to the south Lake Alexandrina a deeper blue lake than Lake Tekapo. Beyond Lake Alexandrina were higher more dramatic mountains. We turned here and started heading back on our selves but climbing higher until after 4 miles we were at the Mt John Observatory. We didn’t explore here just paused to enjoy the views and headed back to our van. The area is famous for its dark skies. We’d tried to get a dark skies experience here but it’s been full for months. Just by the van is a hot springs resort and they advertise seeing the stars at night from their hot pools, sounds tempting. Interestingly they also have an ice rink. 

We were keen to get to our freedom campsite at Lake Pukaki. We’d heard these free camp sites can fill up quickly if you don’t get there before 4pm. We know it’s nearly peak season but not quite. We traveled south across flat farmland and felt like we were moving away from the mountains but soon we reached Lake Pukaki and we stopped for stunning views of Aoraki (Mount Cook) across the lake. The blue skies really helped the snow topped mountains stand out in front

We found our campsite and there were lots of spaces under the trees and this was 6pm. In the shade it felt cool, our first time today. We had tea sat by the van then set ourselves up for the night. There’s a drop toilet here so we won’t need to use the one in the van yet. We’re by a little steam but I struggled to find a way in to wash my dirty feet. 

Really enjoyed yet another glorious day in New Zealand. 

Monday 22nd December, day 15. Aoraki  National Park. Red Tarns, Kea Point and start of Hooker valley trail.  Clay Cliffs. Ahuriri Bridge Campsite.

Andy woke in the night and went out to see what the stars at night were like. Not impressive enough to wake me up properly to have a look but still very clear skies. 

Long mostly flat drive up the side of Lake Pukaki with Aoraki directly ahead. Low cloud initially but that soon burned off and we had great views with the blue skies behind. We planned to park at White Horse Hill but lots of vehicles were parked on the road sides as we approached and plenty were coming from the car park and parking up. We weren’t sure if it was full just didn’t want to pay the newly introduced car parking fees. 

There are various tracks to choose from, the most popular up Hooker valley is waiting for bridge repairs so you can’t go far. Andy chose a few others for us to explore so we headed initially away from the mountains towards The Hermitage hotel and village. We passed a lot of people heading towards us. Beyond the village we were soon climbing lots of steps up through dense tree cover on the Governors Bush track. Lovely little adventure but it was an extra track and we had to climb back to the main Red Tarns track. Over a swing bridge and up steeply on lots of wooden steps.  The path zigzagged up so we had various views of glacial valleys or across the village with Aoraki beyond with low colourful bushes around us. 

Blue skies were being replaced by cloud but we could still see the main mountains. After a good 350 m climb we were on the circular track around the red tarns and there were several groups of people. Lovely reflections of Aoraki and the mountains around in the tarns. They are red because of a native, copper-coloured pondweed (Potamogeton cheesemanii) that grows in them, colouring the water. 

A sandwich stop and quickly back down. As we neared the Hermitage again we walked by a rest area with toilets. It also had showers. 

We had a quick look around the visitor centre for the history of the area plus all the work they’re doing to eradicate pests by 2050. Yesterday we’d seen various signs asking you to report any wallaby sightings here it’s mostly rats. 

On towards Aoraki and to Kea Point with good views over Mueller lake and Mount Sefton. Andy’s ankle was bothering him so he decided not to go up the Hooker Valley track. I headed up and crossed a massive swing bridge and onto a stunning viewpoint but signs warned you couldn’t go any further. I couldn’t quite see Aoraki due to another peak being in the way. Back to the van and on to those showers we’d seen before. Someone luckily had change so we could use them. It was lovely hot water. 

We’d read about lavender ice cream and had passed near the start of Lake Pukaki New Zealand Alpine lavender so headed there for ice cream. The staff weren’t sure of the brand of base ice cream, they were happy to ring their boss but not get the box out of the freezer to check. The boss didn’t answer so we both had lavender with raw honeycomb and I emailed the office so we’ll see if I get an answer (I didn’t!). Andy was clear there was a taste of lavender but I wasn’t so sure, there wasn’t much sweetness from the honeycomb either. It was lovely creamy ice cream though. We didn’t pay the $8 to walk through the lavender field. It’s quite a set up with various lavender gifts and the history of lavender. 

On to Twizel to fill the petrol tank and further south to Clay Cliffs. It was a long dusty, jutted and bumpy 8km road to Clay Cliffs from the main road. The car park was packed despite it being so remote. They are formed from layers of glacial silt and gravel deposited by ancient rivers and lakes over millions of years, then uplifted and tilted by the Ostler Fault (tectonic activity), and finally sculpted into their dramatic pinnacles and ravines by millions of years of wind and water erosion. The Clay Cliffs were pretty impressive. We walked beneath them then up into them. You could see the rocks within the clay and the way they tilted with different layers. Loads of lupine and tiny birds flying about. 

Only 20 minutes drive to Ahuriri Bridge Campsite. Much more basic than yesterday with less tree cover and there’s 2 drop toilets. We’re close to the Ahuriri river but didn’t walk down to it as it started to rain as we ate. We’re so pleased to have the camper as we could spread out after eating plus have hot drinks and not need to go out except to use the toilet! A couple near us have a camp car with the kitchen out the back then I think all the seats fold down to make the bed at least we can cook inside and sit at a table. There are so many different campervan and mobile homes around. Don’t think we’ll be seeing any stars tonight.

Tuesday 23rd December, day 16.  South east to the coast at Oamaru, Moeraki Boulders, Katiki Point, Huriawa Pā Walk and Dunedin. 

Gorgeous sunny morning. A quick breakfast then down to the lupine lined river next to the campsite. Just a bit too cold for a morning dip. 

Heading south east to the coast bypassing Omarama and onto Lake Benmore. We paused for a short walk as it’s such a nice day. There was an information board about the land dispute between the Māori and the early settlers who bought land from them. 

We keep seeing signs for the 190km cycle route Alps2Ocean Trail and could see the dirt track along the river side. Looks like an amazing adventure from Lake Tekapo to the coast at Oamaru. We just don’t have enough time to do everything.

We’d taken the northern route along the Waitaki River passing through green farmland with windbreak hedges and irrigation pipes everywhere. We wanted to travel down the coast a little and over the impressive Waitaki Bridge. Such a massive river basin. 

Into historic Oamaru with its historic harbour area and Steampunk museum. We walked around and stopped for coffee and cake, no sign of ice cream anywhere!

As we headed south clouds were forming over the hills but there was blue sky out to sea. Our next stop was the mysterious Moeraki Boulders. Perfectly spherical boulders, massive stone orbs scattered along the beach like ancient, otherworldly sculptures or dinosaur eggs. The tops of a few looked like they were well buried but the majority were half exposed. A couple were cut open showing the jigsaw pattern of how they were put together. Fascinating. 

There was a café above us on the cliffs and I got lucky with a Mango Ripple from a new dairy although I’m not sure what the ripple was but the big lumps of mango were very tasty. 

We drove to Katiki Point Lighthouse through Katiki. A tiny lighthouse but a scenic reserve just beyond. We could see lots of New Zealand fur seals basking in the rocks or swimming but no penguins. 

Drove along the gorgeous golden sands of Katiki Beach towards Shag Head and then inland onto Karitane. Here we found the Huriawa Pā Walk, a lovely walk along the peninsula with good views over the sea and the sea stacks. Gorgeous scenery. 

Onto Dunedin to stay with Edward and Sherrell Prebble, I’ve known them since I was 3 years old but haven’t seen them for 21 years since they were last in the UK. This is our Christmas destination. After dinner we took Abby their labourer for a walk around Ross Creek Reservoir. 

Wednesday 24th December, day 17. Dunedin, Mount Cargill, Pūrākaunui and Long Beach, midnight mass. 

Lazy morning and breakfast. Tried to zoom Mum and Dad but ended up WhatsApp calling instead. 

Went to Esthers and saw her and Amanda and picked up their sons Micah and David and headed up to Sally’s. We drove past the end of Baldwin Street. World’s steepest drivable residential street with a 35 per cent gradient, rising from 30 m to 100 m.

Sally and Callum with Claire, Joshua and Joel live on a 3 hectare farm out of town. Gorgeous location with 2 tiny houses that they live in and the old farmhouse which they can use but it needs work doing to it. They have alpacas, duck and chickens as well as fruit and vegetables growing in the land. We walked round the property after elevenes then headed to Pūrākaunui and Long Beach. The tide was out so it was a lovely walk along the beach. No signs of seals or penguins so Abbey could run free. The cousins played well together and did quite a bit of rock climbing. 

Sally’s family went home and Edward took us on the scenic route via Port Chalmers and the coast. I mentioned ice cream and Micah had some great suggestions for in town places but we stopped on the way back to theirs and successfully found an amazingly delicious Fig & Manuka honey flavour. 

After dropping the boys off Edward drove us back through Dunedin to give us a bit of a tour such as crossing the river Leith, the historic and beautiful railway station and The Octagon plaza. 

Back to relax before midnight mass at Esther’s church St Martha’s with the choir from Falemaama Tongan Methodist church leading a couple of carols. Surely the earliest midnight mass in the world!

Thursday 25th December, day 18.

Meri Kerihimete (Merry Christmas) from down under. 

Dunedin parkrun in the gorgeous botanical gardens, quite undulating. 

Cooked breakfast, dog walk, family get together with lots of food and presents. Hail and thunder & lightning storms so we had a white Christmas after all. 

So we had a lazy day until Sally and Callum came over with Claire 16, Joshua 14 and Joel 11 around 3. They’d already dropped their dog Lika (Abby’s) daughter off earlier. 

They were keen to go for a dog walk so we went up to the old hospital grounds to hopefully dodge any rain drops by being under the trees. Edward stayed behind to cook plus he struggles to hear everything going on. 

Esther came over with Micah 16 and David 13 an hour later. They’d been mostly with Amanda’s family.  Amanda has ME and is better in the morning so we knew she’d not be coming. 

Various bits of good and drink were produced and a long animated discussion started about Joel wanting to buy and breed sharks from Australia. All the kids are home schooled and really encouraged to think and problem solve for themselves rather than following a set curriculum. They enjoyed Andy getting involved. 

Dinner was served, Esther’s family still eat meat but the majority was vegetarian food. Presents were opened mostly handmade or second hand gifts. We were given homemade caramels from Sally and Callum. Sherrell had painted us a picture of Doubtful Sounds and they gave us chocolate including some Whittakers which seems to rate quite highly as ethical, phew. 

Christmas pudding and then everyone started to leave. Joel had felt unwell hoping not to have caught Edward’s cold. 

Friday 26th December, day 19. Zoom chat with Mum & Dad.

Tomahaka Beach. Shopping, thunderstorm and sunshine.Ross Creek Waterfall. Left overs. 

Lazy breakfast then an hour chatting with my parents. Lovely to see Sherrell and Edward reminiscing with them as they first met in 1972.  

We met with Esther and her sons at Tomahaka reservoir as Micah wanted to try out his new fishing rod. There were too many ducks here for a relaxing walk with Abby so we took her to Tomahaka beach. The tide was out a long way and with the sunshine, blue skies and waves crashing it was wonderful. Abby had a great time chasing balls, Andy and other dogs. Boxing Day beach picnic. 

Back home for tea then Andy and I headed to town for ice cream. Gelato Junky had 12 favours to choose from but I’d had them all! Luckily she had Redcurrant which are grown locally and brought to them to be made into ice cream. Very strong sharp refreshing taste. Lovely ice cream for a sunny Boxing Day. We also did some food shopping for the next few days. There was an amazing thunderstorm when we got back but it soon cleared back to sunshine. Andy spent quite a bit of time doing computer support. 

After dinner of leftovers we walked the School Creek track to Ross Creek Waterfall. Lovely old woods with fallen trees left making it quite dense growth. The trail was well maintained and they chop trees as needed to keep it all accessible. Abby loved swimming and chasing Andy. Back for pudding and packing up! It’s been so lovely to catch up with my New Zealand family but adventure is calling us. 

Saturday 27th December, day 20. Caitlin’s. Parkrun, lighthouses, waterfalls, golden beaches, ice cream, caves, rain and petrified forests, dolphins and seals. 

Up at 6:15 and out the door by 6:40 saying a sad farewell and heading south to Balclutha parkrun. Green farmland, cows and low misty clouds. A fence with loads of shoes tied to it!

Balclutha ‘Big river town’ was written on the sign welcoming us into town. We crossed the river Clutha on an arched bridge and were amazed at how wide and how much water was in the river, we’re so used to wide river beds but just a trickle down the middle. Small gathering at parkrun just 46. The run director took our photo as he explained how to cross the road bridge as the path goes along side of the road then weaves under it and you run back over the bridge to weave back under it and back onto the embankment meaning you don’t run across the road. The run is mostly along a grassy, riverside embankment but starts in Naish park and you run over a little cattle grid before climbing onto the embankment. We were out near the front from the start and I stayed in 8th place all the way with 2nd lady just behind me but she never quite caught me. 

We joined the parkrun post run breakfast at Heart and Soul cafe for massive tasty cheese scones and coffee but left before the majority arrived. 

Gorgeous coastline drive along seemingly never ending golden beaches up to Nugget Point Lighthouse car park then half a mile walk to the lighthouse. Chatty fur seals on the rocks below. The Nuggets, a cluster of sea stacks, glistening in the sun beyond the lighthouse. Lots of people out enjoying the scenery. 

We travelled inland passing fields full of sheep to Purakaunui Falls. Just a quarter mile to see a wide tiered waterfall through mossy green rainforest. 

Papatowai, ‘Where rainforest meets sea’. I’d spotted Peake’s Kitchen & Ice Cream Store so was delighted when Andy had Papatowai as a place to stop. Caramel frappe. Coffee flavoured ice cream which I always dread as I don’t like milk in coffee but I could barely taste the coffee for the caramel sauce ripple and crunchy caramel pieces. Lovely and sweet, with a cherry and cream on top! Andy drove us up to Florence Hill lookout for views over the stunning Tautuku beach.

McClean falls. Another beautiful walk through rainforest with a babbling stream beside us. A couple of practice falls before the main falls thundering down over 3 main steps. Just gorgeous. 

The tide was out enough for access to Cathedral Caves, $15 each. This was the busiest place we’ve been to! We zigzagged down through the rainforest on private Māori land and descended 100m in half a mile to the beach. There’s 2 majestic entrances to the cave made by crashing waves. Bats were flying around the entrance and it soon narrowed but was always head height to walk through. We were soon at the back and light from the other entrance meant no torches needed. As we came out the other entrance the sand was still wet from the receding tide. We paddled in the rain and sunshine such a lovely setting with the crashing waves. 

On to Curio Bay and its Petrified Forest. The tree fossils are approximately 170 million years old dating back to the Jurassic period. The forest was alive when New Zealand was part of Gondwanaland. You could clearly see tree trunks lying flat plus the occasional upright base of a tree. There was loads of really thick seaweed floating along the raised platform sea edge. No sign of any seals or the rare penguins that live here. 

Across the headland at a sheltered bay we could see several Hector’s dolphins playing in the waves. It was a busy on the beach but they came close to the beach but just seemed to want to swim along the coast and back again. Naturally the photos aren’t very good!

Slope Point’s End. The Southern Most Point of the South Island of New Zealand.  A half mile walk to the cliffs above the southern tip of the South Island with really clear views across to Stewart Island. It’s still a long way to the South Pole!

Lumsden Freedom Camping spot is amazing. An old railway station with a few rusting trains in place on old tracks. Plenty of space for us to park with clean, proper toilets, space to wash up and loads of picnic tables. We arrived at 7pm hungry so ate in the van, our usual raw veg, hummus and other dips, cheeses and crackers. Perfect. It started to rain a little, as we drove here we had a few spots and could see darkening skies a head but it’s not as bad as I expected.

Sunday 28th December, day 21. Doubtful Sound day trip. Boat over Lake Manapouri, coach over Wilmot Pass and cruise on Doubtful Sound. Bottlenose dolphins, an albatross and New Zealand fur seals.  Manapouri campsite. 

A very quiet night. Up at 7:30, a coffee to go and we headed off to Manapouri. Low cloud soon burned off the rolling countryside and revealed the mountains of the Fiordland National Park. When we reached the car park at the visitor centre we were pleased we’d gone so early as it was very full. We found a spot over looking the lake to park up and have breakfast. Lots of biting insects so we’re glad we’ve bought repellent. 

Two RealNz boats were moored up, one left at 10, we were due to leave at 10:30, 135 of us. We stood on the top deck. 45 minute sail across Lake Manapouri. Rainforest on all the steep sided shores around us. A couple of snow topped mountains in the distance. A few other boats and a kayak. It seemed so strange to be so remote and yet there were power lines from a power station going up the hill when we reached West Arm. The power is for an aluminium smelter in the south. Someone was giving commentary from time to time but we couldn’t quite catch what she said over the sound of the motor. I moved inside but she spoke too fast so her words were mumbled. 

Into the visitor centre and onto 3 buses to take us over the Wilmot Pass at 690m, a 45 minute drive. Alan our driver was very informative, I’ve tried to record a lot of the information which was verified by the speakers on the boat. 4 meters of rain a year on the eastern side of the mountains but 8 meters on the western side of the Southern Alps. Hot moist air over from Australia gives that rainfall and keeps the air temperature warmer. All granite rock, the glaciers couldn’t cut through it. 

The road was built in the 1960’s when the smelter project was started.  

New Zealand native plants especially beach dominate the forest, the beach is different to our European beach. It’s a very fragile landscape with the occasional tree avalanche. Moss carpets the rock, absorbs the water and is nutrient rich taking nutrients from the rock. Ferns and trees then grow on the moss up to 800m, it’s too cold any higher. Trees are covered in moss and we’ve seen in a few places roots from other plants wrapped round tree trunks as these plants grow on them.

We were so lucky with the blue skies but Alan talked about how stunning it is on rainy days when waterfalls appear from everywhere. We’ve timed this trip right as the rain from a few days ago has kept quite a few of the temporary waterfalls still flowing.

We stopped at the top of the pass for wonderful views down to the Sound. 1:5 gradient on the unsealed road down to the Sound. Podacarp evergreen confers on the warmer western side of the Alps and a wider range of plants. They’re called Sounds but should be called fiords as they are a glacial valleys invaded by the sea, a Sound is a river valley invaded by the sea.

Rimu tree (red pine), tallest in the forest. Frongs hang down, male and female tress. Good wood but you’re no longer allowed to use native pine. 

Earthquakes here every day because of the fault lines but most are very gentle, the land rises 3cm every year. 

Fresh water in the fiord but tinted with tannins from the trees. 3 meters of fresh water sits on the salt water for a long way into the Sound making it drinkable and the darkness of the water allows animals that would normally live much deeper rise up in the Sound. Education centre down in Deep Cove for schools and uni students. 

16km long Sound. 3 times longer than Milford Sound, it’s the 2nd largest and middle of the 14 Sounds. 

Within minutes of setting off on the catamaran we saw some of the pod of 40 bottlenose dolphins that live in the Sound. Boats are not allowed to chase the dolphins but they turned the engines off and allowed the dolphins to approach us. Quite magical. 

We paused for views up the Hall End Arm of the Sound. Then into the main Sound. Steep sided hills from the glacial past, lots of trees and waterfalls. 

Out to sea at the end of the Sound and an albatross flew close to the surface of the sea next to us. No sign of penguins as they’ve all migrated south. Loads of New Zealand furs seals. Back into Doubtful Sound and its side channel Croaked Arm. Much narrower but just as long at 16km. New Zealand Christmas trees on the banks but not as red as usual due to the wet spring and summer delaying the warm weather. 

We stopped for a moment of silence and could hear a waterfall and birds singing with the lapping of water beneath the boat. They have 240 days of rain here so we did well with having pure sunshine although it did get windy, choppy and cold out towards the sea. 

We were both quite tired, Andy got us coffees and a slice of something very sweet. I sat inside for a while with massive windows to enjoy the views. We had 2.5 hours cruise then back to the coach and boat across Lake Manapouri. We’d asked for this adventure as our Christmas gift from Andy’s family. It was the perfect gift, so pleased they wrapped it up with sunshine. 

Andy had booked us into the Manapouri Holiday Park, so good to be able to shower! We had pasta for tea and got ready for the Kepler Track tomorrow.

 

Monday 29th December, Day 22. Kepler Track. 37.38 miles, 2,109m of ascent in 12 hours 12 minutes. 

The Kepler Track was opened in 1988 to celebrate the centenary of New Zealand National Parks and to relieve the Routeburn and Milford Tracks.

Up early and started walking at 6:15. First 3.3 miles along Lake Te Anau was on a well maintained track. Moss covering everything, ferns growing where they could. A sign at the start pointed out various places on the route but in time not distances. Brod Bay after just an hour, should have taken us 90 minutes. Lots of people camping here. The sign at the start also warned no dogs as it’s Kiwi controlled area, we didn’t see any Kiwis, or Moose! Moose were introduced to Fiordland National Park in 1910 and there have been sightings as recent of 2025 but no photographic proof but it’s believed that they were more probably deer and that the Moose are extinct in the wild.

From Brod Bay we started the zigzagging trod up, the path was quite muddy in places. Lots of bird song. We saw a few runners and kept hearing the voices of a family that caught us up later as we sat eating nut butter and jam wraps. They are doing the route in one go too but getting collected at Rainbow Reach 5.5 miles from the end. We soon two re overtook them. 

We were mostly walking through the rainforest but then suddenly arrived at some massive cliffs. There were steps and bridges to get round them. 

The trees getting shorter as we near the higher ground. At 7 miles we were suddenly above the tree line. Over half of the days’ climb done already. Sadly there was mist all around that hid the views.  It was like being on the North York Moors but grass and white flowers rather than heather and boardwalk in places not stone slabs. Chilly at times so my sleeves went back on and the ground flatten out for a while. 

We’d taken 3 hours (the sign had said 6 hours) and 8.3 miles to reach Luxmore Hut at 1,080m still in the mist, we’d climbed 878m from the lake. A Kea tried to share some of Andy’s nut bar then followed us for a while. Still climbing. We pretty much decided we were going 30% to 50% quicker than most of the frequent signs, seems odd not to have distances on them as well. 

No views just damp mist so we skipped the side trip up Mount Luxmore, our high point of the day was 1,397m. Loose grey rock with touches of vegetation. 4 hours 10.6 miles. I heard someone ahead exciting shouting ‘there’s snow’. It was a tiny patch. 

The sun was trying to come through but never succeeded. Sticks mark the edge of the track I guess for winter crossings but were useful for seeing where the track went as we weaved above and down with a few zigzags. 

We must have got to Luxmore Hut just after most people started out for the day as it was quite busy on the track but with our small bags we slid past people. 

Long ridges with steep drops either side but still no views. I did this hike with my parents in February 1997 and the ridge section is still the one we talk about. It’s a massive horseshoe and you can see other hikers for miles in both directions. We could see nothing but a few feet in front of us. We could hear water flowing in the distance, bird song and the light breeze. Some undulations and the sun started trying to come out but we still couldn’t see much. In places there were emergency huts plus toilets and some work was being done on the route replacing wooden steps with metal steps and hand rails. Not all had handrails yet and on the narrow ridge I was glad it wasn’t windy and I couldn’t see how far down the drops were on either side. 

So after no views we were plunged back into the tree line by 12:00 on a steep zigzag path down. We’d done less than half of the route so did talk about turning round and heading back in case we got some views before we started to drop down. We kept going down initially very tight zigzags and by 12:15 we could see blue sky and mountain tops across the valley, through the trees. When we got lower we could see clouds were still sitting on the Kepler range. 

Such a gorgeous green decent with crashing streams of blue clear waterfalls. We paused at the Iris Burn Hut to fill water flasks from the bottles we were carrying. We knew there was no safe drinking water on the route so carried plenty. There were a few runners. One guy had recently over taken us was in the hut, he seemed to disappear off quickly then rest for ages at the huts as we saw him a few times. Andy’s ankle was bothering him so we didn’t run. 

We stopped a few times to get our wraps out to eat but tended to walk and eat. 

The ground around us flattened out and at times we were out in the open but mostly had the trees to shield us from the sun. It made for lovely colours through the trees. The hike is basically 20 miles of a steep up, ridge then steep down and the last 17 miles are rolling flat through the trees. It was lovely and didn’t get monotonous as we’d be walking a long side a gorgeous wide crashing river one minute then realised we were by Lake Manapouri with tracks down to sandy beaches and views across to the mountains beyond. The track wove around marshes and wetlands and finally settled following the majestic Waiau River which flows from Lake TeAnau into Lake Manapouri. It was wide, very full and very fast and is controlled by hydro electric gates near the car park where we’re parked. 

Quite a few people were impressed we were doing this in one go. I did it over 4 days with my parents. We weren’t the only ones and since 1988 there’s been a race a long the route, if only we’d come to New Zealand a week earlier we could have raced it. 

With tired sore feet we headed to Andy’s Place camp spot above Te Anau. My choices of ice cream spots had shut and we were keen to eat and get an early night.

Tuesday 30th December, day 23. Te Anau to Arrowtown, Wanaka and Raspberry Flat carpark. 

We had coffee and used the WiFi of a cafe just inside Te Anau before a drive along the lake front. Another lovely sunny day but with low cloud over the Kepler range again.  We’re heading north today with lots of stops. 

We stopped just outside Te Anau at The Wilderness Scientific Reserve for views over Fiordland. The ground looked like sand but it was moss between the low shrub. 

On through more flat farmland surrounded by stunning snow topped mountains. We paused at the southern tip of Lake Wakatipu for views up towards Queenstown and again at the Devils Staircase viewpoint. We’d been warned it got busy in Queenstown and sure enough it was jam packed just on the short section we were there, our satnav took us down a side road to avoid the worst. We didn’t stop but drove onto Arrowtown. 

I’d seen an ice cream spot here so we headed straight there. Patagonia Chocolates make their own ice cream. A massive portion of Patagonia dark chocolate and macadamia in a handmade waffle cone. It was fantastic. We sat in the shop, away from the biting sandflies and used the WiFi. 

Arrowtown was a gold mining area and the town centre was quite oldie worldy but its charm was spoilt by cars parked down the Main Street. We walked round the Chinese gold-miners village, they outnumbered the white settlers in its hey day. We’d planned to buy some lunch but the bakery was out of vegetarian options so we headed on to Wanaka. 

I was delighted that Google maps planned our route over the Crown Range Road as it’s known for being scenic. It’s the highest paved road in New Zealand, it was also very busy and had lots of zigzags to get you up and over. We stopped for views of Queenstown and the Remarkables before breezing down to Wanaka. There have been plenty of places for short walks today including at the roads summit but we’ve been happy enjoying the views and to keep moving.  There was a music festival starting up just before town which might have been fun. Plenty of camping and campervans. There was also a rodeo in Te Anau today but I didn’t fancy that. 

We parked by the lakeshore in Wanaka to get pies and chips then started on the road to Mount Aspiring. 23km of sealed road then 28 of unsealed. We passed a fence with hundreds of bras dangling from it, very odd. 

Mostly rutted road which was slow going but sections of smooth surface. We crossed 9 cattle grids followed by 9 fords. Andy just went confidently through them and it was only the last one that splashed over the bonnet. Lots of vehicles of all shapes and sizes were coming towards us which gave us hope we’d reach the rather remote Raspberry Flat Carpark which is a free camping area with toilets. 

We had lovely views of the mountains north of us and I was surprised when we drifted west into another valley but still following the Matukituki River and kept heading towards new mountains. It didn’t feel like we were climbing much over the flat valley. Sheep filled the fields and waterfalls cascaded down around us. Moss in the southern hillsides and trees on the lower reaches of the northern slopes. 

I spotted a sign that said ice cream 1km, sure enough there was a little van. I really hope it’s there tomorrow! 

The carpark was full of cars and vans. A few will be from people staying overnight in the mountain huts. Such a lovely spot. We’d expected rain judging by the darkening clouds but hoped it wouldn’t for the sake of the fords but it did but not for long and bits of blue sky came out and cleared some of the peaks with it. 

Both tired after yesterday’s adventures we were glad to eat by 5:30 then relax. We’ll be adventurous when the morning comes. 

Wednesday 31st December, day 24. Rob Roy Glacier Track. 8 miles, 596m of climb. 3 hours 40. 

New Years Eve in Wanaka 

Peaceful, dry night. A noisy bird clambered around the roof around 7am, we’ve heard kea’s love to steal aerials and anything loose on cars. Andy banged the roof and it left us. Low cloud around us but we could see peaks appearing. 

The Rob Roy Glacier trail follows the clear watered glacial Matukituki River. We had a short wooden bridge to cross a tributary then a swing bring to cross the main wide river. A track continued to Liverpool Hut and a couple of ladies were riding mountain bikes up it. It didn’t look easy on the rough rocky track with big rucksacks on their backs. 

Our tree lined track followed the narrowing tributary river as we climbed up towards the glaciers. It was quite peaceful except for the crashing of the river below us and bird call. Luckily the trees were spaced enough that we could see waterfalls below in the river and across down cliff faces. We got occasional glimpses of the glacier with a waterfall tumbling from it, Bridal Veil Falls. 

Well maintained track with wooden steps in places and a toilet near the official end of the track. We knew we could go past the ‘track ends here’ sign but weren’t sure how far. We found one faint track but that disappeared and we found another down to the river but no clear path up and over the rocks above us. Andy had a scramble up but couldn’t see much. 

As we started our return walk the sudden crack of an avalanche made us stop and turn round. We could see a massive chunk of it cascading down a couple of levels. A smaller avalanche broke away from nearby. 

There was a lot of people at the trail end and many more coming up. The day seemed to be brightening up with sunlight coming through the trees. 

As we neared the car park we walked through the ford instead of the wooden bridge and decided to have a dip. Andy had brought his swimming trunks and a little towel. I stripped to bra and pants, matching of course and got in. It was cold but refreshing with the heat of the sun. So good to feel clean after our sweaty walk. 

Back to Wanaka. The ice cream van was still closed on the way. Loads of people heading in to Raspberry Flat. Great place to spend New Year’s Eve. 

Our friends suggested a place to camp tonight in Wanaka but it was full when we got there. We headed to a laundrette and whilst our clothes washed nipped down for ice cream. A very nice salted chocolate. 

Andy joined the gang for drinks whilst I put the wash on to dry then joined them. No joy finding a spot to camp. You used to be able to park up anywhere in town but they are really strict now with signs warning if a $800 fine (£400). We headed out to the near empty Waterfall Creek carpark but you can’t camp there anymore. It would’ve been full if you could. Andy found a campground out of town but didn’t get a reply about arriving late. We parked near town and walked in along the lake side but realised there were lots of parking spots near town now so walked back to get the car. It was raining a little. 

We met Rick and Sue with Chris and Brent at Fudog for some amazing Asian food. We could see the sky clearing but not much of a sunset. We had a walk along the shore front listening to the 2 bands playing and lots of young people out celebrating. We decided to head out to the campsite. The fireworks didn’t start until midnight, 2 hours time and I was getting bitten despite insect repellent. The others were ready to go too and had a lift. 

We drove 20 minutes out of Wanaka to Lake Hāwea but couldn’t get into the campsite so headed up hill to a freedom camping spot. Just one other vehicle there. The moon was out which gave a little light pollution but we had clear enough skies to enjoy the stars so lay in the campervan with the blinds up looking at the stars and eating the rest of our Christmas chocolate. Perfect way to end the year. 

Thursday 1st January 2026, day 25. Lake Hāwea, waterfalls, Haast Pass and the Wild West coast to Ōkārito 

Someone arrived around 3am and cars were going by on the road from 7ish otherwise it was a very peaceful spot to camp. There was a group of vans on the next level down from us closer to the lake. Lake Hāwea was still and it was the perfect place to start the New Year. Coffee then we headed back to Hāwea for fuel. 

We stopped at Hawea Store & Kitchen for almond croissants and a raisin twirl with coffee. We didn’t mind paying the 15% extra for New Year’s Day. A supermarket was open behind it so we shopped. 

Back on the road north along side Lake Hāwea and over to Lake Wānaka. Lovely views of mountains. 

On to Blue Pools and a 15 minute walk from the packed carpark to a couple of big swing bridges. The granite rocks around us were lovely to look at with different minerals swirling through them. Massive trout fish swimming in the really clear water. When the main river is in flood it pushes gravel up to the edges making the pools from tributary Blue River. Not very sunny but people were getting into the water in swimwear. We found a couple of tracks across the second bridge to explore away from the crowds. Lovely spot but I think we’ve been spoilt as reviews made it sound really magical. I’d still suggest people visit though. Maybe I missed the magic that sunshine would have added. 

Up and over the forested Haast Pass. No real options for views with clouds covering the peaks around us. We stopped at Fantail Falls and walked along the riverside for a couple of minutes to them. Quite impressive fan of falls within the trees. 

Another roadside stop for Thunder Creek Falls. One big cascade of water as though from a hosepipe down into the Haast River. We’d been warned about the increase in sandflies and they were certainly enjoying my company!

The journey through the Haast Pass was lovely with forested steep hill sides as our road somehow found a way through. Loads of waterfalls sprouting on both sides, we didn’t stop at all the lookouts. We knew we were getting nearer the coast when the views widened out and we had shorter trees. 

A couple of stops for ice creams but no new brands. We had cheese scones in Haast and hit the coast soon after. Chris had said last night Cheese scones were the treat to have in Wanaka with places trying to out do each other. 

Knights Point Lookout, stunning views over the rugged Tasman coastline. A monument marks the completion of the Paringa-Haast Highway, which connected the West Coast with Otago via the Haast Pass in 1965. Prior to 1965, people would have had to return to Greymouth and take the train back to Christchurch to get to Queenstown.

There was an ice cream promise but failure at Bruce Bay with wild crashing waves and tree trunks high up on the beaches. We can see it’s a wild stormy coast as so many of the trees lean inland. The waves must crash over the road as there’s a barrier of boulders between the beach and the road. Lots of tall thin rimu trees close to the beach at one end with leaves only on the very upper branches. 

The weather has been very changeable today. Only one bit of rain really but everytime we thought we were getting blue sky clouds would tumble in. By the time we got to Fox Glacier there was nothing to see so no point hiking up the valley for 2 hours. On to Franz Josef Glacier information place. The hike we were thinking of doing they don’t recommend as rain is expected. They recommended another that we’re best to do first thing if the cloud isn’t low. We won’t get close to the glacier but should get good views. We’re not too worried as we had such a good luck at the glaciers yesterday and at Aoraki. 

Ōkārito we’d been warned was full of sandflies but it was a breezy evening so we were lucky. Nice well set up campsite. Andy cooked tea and chilled out after our late night. Lovely day but we didn’t feel like we were close to the sea and therefore the picturesque coastline mostly just trapped in a tunnel of gorgeous green trees.

Friday 2nd January, day 26. West coast, Hokitika Gorge, Arthur’s Pass and Ashley near Christchurch. 

Low cloud so we decided to keep heading north. We still have a lot to see before we get to Christchurch tonight. We’d run out of gas last night so headed back to the settlement at Franz Josef to buy some and had breakfast in the van on the main street. Sat next to the van were people waiting to go up in helicopters to see the glaciers. Hope they have some success but you wouldn’t know there were any mountains here just tree and cloud covered hills. 

Most of the drive is inland today with glimpses of mirror flat lakes and rocky rivers through the often dense tree cover.  We crossed plenty of wide flat glacial valleys before climbing up into the trees again. The bridges are always a surprise as you never know how much water will be beneath them even the widest river bed can have a trickle, if you’re lucky or be full. So often the bridges are single file so you have to check and sometimes wait for on coming vehicles. Good job there’s not many of us! Some of the longer bridges have passing places. 

We had rain a few times but it mostly seemed to be low cloud over the mountains to our right and patches of blue sky out to sea on our left. 

The road signs pointed us inland, just as we should have been driving along some of the coastline, towards the stunning Hokitika Gorge. A short walk through the forest with viewpoints down on the deep granite lined gorge and a couple of swing bridges. The water is a real milky glacial blue made by fine rock particles ground down by glaciers and suspended in the water and it’s the light reflecting off those particles that makes it so milky, turquoise blue. 

As we crossed the second swing bridge we could see the widening valley towards the mountains but we couldn’t see any signs of a glacier mostly due to the low cloud. You can do a short walk to get to the gorge or a full 1.5 mile circuit through the forest. Really nicely done and although the car park was packed the path didn’t feel over run with people. 

There were signs for gold panning experiences as we headed to Hokitika Beach but we didn’t stop. We had lunch in the van overlooking the sea then walked along the coast with its memorial to shipwrecks. Scattered across the dark brown sands were loads of tree trunks. There’s an annual Hokitika sculpture festival in January using the driftwood. 

I’d spotted ice cream signs as we drove through town and got lucky at the first place we tried, Mascarpone lavender. Hard to decide if there was a flavour at all. It felt a little gritty rather than smooth and creamy and there was no floral lavender taste at all. Still it wasn’t unpleasant. 

Up the wild coast a short distance then inland towards Arthur’s Pass. Suddenly we noticed the clouds were lifting and we got excellent views across the wide flat gorge. The train line traveled south to then join us on our eastbound journey. We didn’t see the line all the way sometimes it took the longer flatter route down a valley as we nipped over the hillside. 

We seemed to be heading a long way in land without gaining any height but suddenly we were climbing and it was a steep 16% gradient. The van struggled a little but did really well, we guessed this is the tunnel section for the train. We stopped at Otira Viaduct Lookout for views down the road valley and the viaduct we’d just come over. 

As we climbed the next section a sign with monument announced Arthur’s Pass. We didn’t stop and drove through sunny Arthur’s Pass settlement. We passed a few lakes before we really started to go steeply downhill and this is where the rain and fog started. I was pleased Andy was driving but he had to concentrate very hard on the many zigzags and steep sides. We’d seen cars coming towards us with lights on and now understood why!

Then it cleared quite quickly. This whole section over Arthur’s Pass is lovely and there are walking tracks and signs to ski areas and all sorts of adventures. You could spend weeks here. 

Rick recommended Castle Hill / Kura Tawhiti Conservation Area. As we approached the area lots of odd shaped rocks were scattered across the landscape. We stopped in the car park of the conservation area and walked up in the drizzle. The limestone rocks reminded me of Brimham Rocks near home but these were much bigger and smoother but still a massive adventure playground. 

On to nearly the coast at Ashley Picnic Ground near Rangiora and our home for the night. Very posh flush toilets and despite there being 9 vehicles in the small car park the only sound was bird sing. My Merlin app decided it was the European goldfinch. A quick tea, drinks and time to sort our bags ready for tomorrow’s flight to Auckland. Then an early night as all this travelling is very tiring. 

Saturday 3rd January, day 27. Pegasus parkrun, fly Christchurch 11:50 to Auckland 13:10. Paihia, Bay of Islands via Mangawhai

Up at 7 and off to a rainy parkrun twice round a pond and over a suspension bridge. Someone was running barefoot! 

We sadly dropped our lovely Big Little Camper off and were given a ride to the airport. All very efficient as we were too early to check any bags in. The maximum hand luggage limit is 7kg and we know we’re slightly over plus have big bottles of insect repellent and sunscreen so we paid to check one bag in. 

We bought coffee and ate our jam and peanut butter wraps before a very smooth check in and straight through departures. They had very comfortable seats near our gate so we sat there with more coffee until our names were called! They wanted us to sit by emergency exits and were we willing to help the crew if needed, phew we wondered why we’d been singled out. 

A 20 minute delayed departure and a smooth flight. Being a domestic flight no one seemed bothered about checking ID except when they switched our seats. 

We collected the rucksack and headed outside to be picked up by MINT car rentals and taken to collect our little hybrid car, a new driving experience for us and not just because it was so low after the campervan but so quiet. 

Straight to Ponsonby for Duck Island Ice Cream then on the State Highway 16 route up the west coast of The Bay of Islands rather than the inland main route SH1. There was a Boyzone CD in the car so we listened to that then various radio stations changing as they lost reception. 

The whole area has been much more tamed than we saw on the South Island. Less trees meant more views over the rolling hills and glimpses of the coastline. We thought about stopping at a few viewpoint plus a waterfall but kept driving as its 4 hours from airport to accommodation so we need to pick and choose what we see. 

I’d asked chatGPT for ideas of places to see as we headed north and the Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway sounded amazing. When we arrived the tide was coming in but there was plenty of golden sand to walk on so we headed down there rather than up to the viewpoint. Gentle crashing warm waves where we were but across into the main bay were surfers enjoying the bigger waves. Stunning coastline. We were very happy I guess the 20 degrees and blue skies really helped too. 

It was getting late so we found The Cove Cafe after a 20 minute drive up and over the tree covered headland. Again gorgeous beaches and it was a struggle to find a spot to park initially but we found one and luckily got a table. We kept looking out to the park area next to the beach across the road. What a location! I ordered TANGIER VEGAN PIZZA. Hummus, Vegan Mozzarella, Kale, Harissa Roasted Cauliflower, Parsley, Coconut Yoghurt, Dukkah, Pomegranate, Gremolata. It sounded so different and I was delighted there was a vegan section to the menu, hence us coming here. It was amazing so creamy just needed a blue cheese to add some bite. Andy chose a chicken burger. 

We had a quick look at the beach before the 2 hour drive to Paihia our evening destination. The sun started setting as we drove over the lovely rolling hillside and with the few clouds it was a gorgeous red sky. As we reached Paihia we could see the moon starting to rise but I didn’t realise it was a full moon until later or we’d have stopped. We were late arriving at Centabay Lodge backpackers but had let them know. Jack was great helping us make our minds up on what to do the next few days. Good to have showers and finalise our plans.

Sunday 4th January, day 28. Matauri Bay, Doubtless Bay, Cape Reinga Lighthouse, Giant Sand Dunes, Ninety Mile Beach and Russell. 

Up at 7, shopped for coffee and breakfast then started the long drive north. We chose a few places to stop on the way but know it’s mostly just a long 300km drive to the northern tip of New Zealand. 

Matauri Bay Lookout. Gorgeous views over little islands in the bay. A chatty couple had stopped to brew coffee and enjoy the view down on their campsite from last night. 

Colourful parrots suddenly flew out across the road as we drove. Really vibrant green bottoms with purple and blue wings. We often see little birds that hop, skip and jump across the road but can fly. They seem to be eating from the road side but never seem in a hurry until the last minute. 

Lovely coastal drive inland at times. The rolling hills have ridges on them like they’ve been terraced in the past but the terraces aren’t very deep. 

We were driving quite often just above the waters edge round lots of little bays with mangroves growing up to the road edge. SH10 is a gorgeous tourist route. Purple flowers instead of lupines on the road sides. 

Bought coffees at BeachBox Coopers Beach and walked down to the mangrove line beach. The tide was in so we couldn’t explore far but this tiny section of Doubtless Bay was beautiful. Not quite as wild as yesterday. As we’d walked down to the beach a sign near the beach said the path was private property but we’d not seen a sign earlier so continued. We walked along the beach in search of a different exit having to go round mangroves into the sea with the tide at times coming right up the beach. Just lovely. 

Karikari Peninsula and Whatuwhiwhi bay for good views over the whole of Doubtless Bay. Much calmer sea but a little chilly. Andy suggested a swim, I was happy to watch so we drove on. We turned onto SH1 and followed the highway 100 km inland up to Cape Reinga Lighthouse. No views of Ninety Mile Beach but beach views on the eastern side. As we got further north farmland was replaced by native forest on the rolling hills. 

Cape Reinga Lighthouse car park was packed. Lovely views of a sandy beach to the west and rugged coast to the east. North there were a few islands in the distance but next stop is Fiji or Russia I guess. We could see people heading down to the beach so after walking to the lighthouse we headed towards the beach but not all the way down just far enough for some amazing views. The car said the temperature had got up to 26 but a gentle breeze meant it wasn’t too warm. 

It was a rough 3km side road to the Giant Sand Dunes. They were giant and we weren’t the only ones headed there but luckily got a parking spot. Most people were renting boards to surf down them but we climbed the highest and steepest for views of the sea and surrounding dunes. Very impressive helped by the blue of the skies and the deep green of the native forest around. In places the sand was hot under our bare feet but mostly not too bad. 

Dark clouds were settling ahead and we had a few splashes of rain as we headed south but this didn’t last long. 

A sign pointed 10km to Ninety Mile Beach. It was mostly a rough track but opened onto the long beach but it was too hazy to see far. Lots of cars just parked on the beach or driving up and down. Andy couldn’t resist having a go as the tide had just started coming back in. It’s actually 88km long so nearer 55 miles and at low tide drivable. 

Back to Paihia arriving nearly 11 hours after leaving. Straight to the pier and we got the 7pm ferry to Russell. This was one of the first British settlements and just 7km from the first capital until it was moved to Auckland. The area is fertile with good fishing which is why the Māori had settled here first. It’s where the Treaty of Waitangi signed. The treaty to establish a British Governor of New Zealand, consider Māori ownership of their lands and other properties, and give Māori the rights of British subjects. It’s still debated who owns what land. 

I had an ice cream plan but the place was shut despite their website saying they opened until 8pm! Luckily across the road was another option but I’d either had their ice cream brand or all the flavours of their gelato brand. One of the lasses was very attentive and realised they had a sorbet brand plus a 4th and that how I ended up with Mocha. I was surprised to do find chunks of fudge in it but little chocolate or coffee. Quite nice for a coffee ice cream. We walked along the quaint shoreline with its ‘old’ buildings and massive trees. I’d found a nice place for tea but it wasn’t on the sea front so we ordered takeaway pizzas and sat watching the sun go down over the bay. Lots of people swimming in the bay, chatter of people eating and enjoying the views. We’d hoped to have a little more time here but today has been amazing.

Monday 5th January, day 29. Waitangi trail to Haruru Falls, Waipu Caves Scenic Reserve, Charlies Gelato and Coromandel Peninsula 

High Tide cafe for breakfast. Coffee and frittata. We put our main bags in the car and headed out on the coastal path towards the Waitangi treaty museum. The roadside path had information about local birds plus various nations flags painted on the path. 

A Cruise ship anchored at sea with yellow boats bringing people ashore. A helicopter buzzing around possibly doing the same. A little overcast but we walked past the museum and into the trees following the Waitangi trail.  The sound of cicadas was nearly deafening at times with just the occasional bird call breaking through. We weaved round about the water line but soon came down to its level with mangroves growing next to us. We walked over a bridge then followed boardwalks through the mangroves. It was high tide but the water didn’t come over the boards at all. A couple walked past us said they’d been told you might get your feet wet. Back into trees then we were on a path cut out of the cliff edge overlooking the river. Quite a few kayakers. 

We’d seen a few people on the 5k trail that led to Haruru Falls but soon reached a busy carpark and lots of people admiring the little falls. We were aware that it was 4.5 miles back to Paihia and time was getting on so we asked people for a lift and got lucky with the second car. An Austrian couple near the end of their 4 week holiday.  

Andy put out rucksacks in the car as I headed to the ice cream place. They’d opened at 6 but weren’t selling ice cream when we went past at 9. Breakfast of Champions (cornflakes and milk) very crunchy cornflakes and smooth milky ice cream, really nice not my first time having cornflakes. I’d missed Andy’s message about getting him an ice cream and met him at the shop as arranged. Paihia was really busy and not just with cruise ship visitors. 

A 90 Minute drive to Waipu Caves Scenic Reserve. It poured down just as we arrived so we sat in the car to eat the cheese and chilli scones Andy had bought from the breakfast place. We’d passed a cyclist as she came out of the caves very quickly so we weren’t sure what to expect

The caves were amazing. Very slippy path in and after a slight step down we were into cool water which we were aware would happen. Andy had his head torch and only used it as needed. As we rounded the first bend and turned the lights off there was a small display of tiny lights from the glow worms in between the stalactites. The cave narrowed for a while and further in the whole ceiling was covered. It was amazing only spoilt a little by people coming and going with torch light but not for long. As we got back to the entrance a man asked us if we could take her daughter back to her mother at their car. We weren’t sure if it was the wet feet or darkness she didn’t like.

Back at the car the American family we’d met on the boat yesterday had just come out and were on their way to the airport to fly home. 

The plan was to go to the Foundry Chocolate factory and shop. Cocoa Runners, where we get our ethical chocolate from, have rated them very highly in their end of year report. Sadly I hadn’t realised they shut at 15:20 and our arrival ETA was 4pm! Luckily my original choice for ice cream, Charlies Gelato, sell their chocolate so we headed there as it was only slight off route. Andy was able to have an ice cream honey and almond so I kept him company with a dark chocolate, 2 ice creams in one day! Lucky me. We bought a couple of slabs of Foundry Chocolate and hit the toll road south. I slept a little of the 3 hour journey past Auckland and round to the Coromandel Peninsula. I was pleased I woke as we started up the peninsula’s coastline. The road hugged very closely to the shoreline which was dotted with trees that often gave a tunnel effect over the road. Sometimes beaches, often just steep slopes to the sea at my side of the car. The sun started to come out as we got further north. It was an amazing drive. The road then turned inland and up and over the very green, steep hill sides with patches of trees. We stopped for views at the top, it was gorgeous.

We arrived at Tasman Holiday Parks – Coromandel just after 7. I’d already spotted a Turkish restaurant in town so we headed straight to Solo Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Initially she said they were full but a couple let us sit on the other half of their table. A shared Meze Dolma, Falafel, Vege Fritter, Olives and Feta, Four Dips served with Garlic Bread. Amazing but then we stuffed ourselves by having baklava too!  We walked down to the sea to watch the start of the sunset but headed back watching the colours deepen. 

More African Lily on the roadside everywhere such a lovely purple colour. Showers, planning and a few pieces of chocolate. Perfect end to the day.

Tuesday 6th January, day 30. New Chums Beach, Rings Beach, Whitianga, Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove and the 309 road

Coffee and yoghurt, fruit and nuts for breakfast on the picnic area just outside our room. 

We drove to Whangapoua and parked at the far end where signs pointed out the walk to New Chums Beach. The tide had just started to go out so the water in the little estuary was quite deep, nearly to the top of my legs, I hitched my shorts up. A group of 4 turned up as we did and Andy said they seem to know what they’re doing as they walked across the beach but as we reached the water one of them commented on our confidence in just crossing the stream that we seemed to know what we were doing. We’d seen a few people that appeared to be crossing when we arrived. 

We followed the top of the rocky shore line close to the edge as waves came up to us. It was quite exciting as a few times we were scrambling a little to stop getting too wet. Then a rough path appeared which initially hugged the coast line then climbed up and over the headland and down to New Chums Beach. We saw a few others on the trail in both directions but there weren’t many on the beach. 

Golden sands and waves crashing up onto the beach. We walked along the beach. A couples dog wanted to play ball so we a did. We had a dip in the sea with the big waves washing over us at times. It was too choppy to swim in really. 

Lots of people were coming in as we left. The walk wasn’t much easier with the tide going out, I thought we’d have more sand to walk on. So far we’ve not seen any penguins as they’ve either gone off south for summer or we were there at the wrong time. However Andy spotted our 2nd dead penguin!

Rings Beach had been suggested as a little quieter place to visit. The last few miles were dirt track then we were at a small group of houses. Not sure if they were holiday homes but a lot of people were enjoying the sandy beach and sea.  We decided to do the Rings Beach loop track. A 4.4km walk into the bush behind the beach. We rose up quickly in the hot corridor of bushes with just the occasional breeze. Crashing waves from Matarangi Beach got louder as we climbed up through the trees just getting occasional glimpses of beaches on both sides. A side track said Pā site so we followed that not knowing where it went in 15 minutes but it was just to a radio tower but no views as it was all over grown. I’ve since discovered that Pā sites are historic Māori fortified villages, often on hilltops. Nothing indicated anything of significance where we went. 

There were a few side tracks and we decided not to take the wetlands track when we came to a junction after the high point of the day. There were no signs but both tracks looked good so we stayed left. It didn’t take long before we decided this was a track for setting up and emptying traps although traps are on the main track too. We looped back round to where we’d started but had enjoyed the walk. Technical at times but luckily with it being dry the mud tracks weren’t slippy. 

Stopped in Whitianga for an amazing, tasty Cinnamon Toast Crunch ice cream and lunch of falafel wraps. As we left here it poured down. We knew rain was forecast but it was a very heavy shower for 20 minutes or so. We hoped it would wash some of the dirt from the car as it’s got very dusty from dirt roads we’ve been on. 

Our next stop, Hot Water Beach, was tide dependent needing to be within 2 hours of low tide. Underground hot springs filter up near the sand’s surface so you don’t have to dig far to make a pool to sit in although you need to add cold water to not burn! The beach was crazy as it’s a large beach but most people are sat in one tiny section by the boulders. Plenty of cold abandoned pools but as we walked between the other pools the sand warmed up. Water trickled towards the sea from other pools which was very hot to walk across. Andy found an abandoned pool and we stood in it but it was too hot to sit in as others were doing nearby. We needed a bucket to get cold water to add to it. The rain would have been the perfect time to be sat here. We decided as it was getting late not to sit there but had enjoyed the experience of seeing so many people crammed in. 

Cathedral Cove was our next destination. There’s been a lot of rock falls and path closures in the last few years so you can’t get very close without parking one side of Hahei and either walking or using their shuttle for the 1.5 mile journey to the start of the track down. It’s a well paved undulating track of just over a mile down to the beach and was busy with people walking through the cave towards Te Hoho Rock. We’d thought about hiring kayaks but I felt I’d rather be in a tour for safety and the next time we could do that was for sunrise at 5:30 tomorrow morning. It was lovely walking there but would have been interesting following the coast line. 

Andy had spotted The 309 Road as a picturesque gravel road across to Coromandel. He was delighted there wasn’t more rain so we felt it would be safe to do. It felt like we were on the Haast Pass with steep sided towering hillsides covered in native forest and a river snaking along at our side. It zigzagged up and across the middle of the Peninsula and was a lovely wild route. Luckily we only saw 2 other vehicles and they were both just before we were back on the main highway. It was also meant to be 10 minutes quicker than going in the main road. 

Back for showers and tea again at the Turkish restaurant before doing another load of washing and getting ready to hit Australia tomorrow!

Wednesday 7th January, day 31. Big Kauri Tree, ice cream, Auckland to Sydney NZ111. 16:20 to 18:05. Exploring Sydney centre. 

A few Asian families have been sharing the same kitchen and bathroom facilities as us. Andy was chatty with them and ended up getting invited for breakfast after we’d had ours. It was a meaty pasta meal. He didn’t have too much but was very full. We chatted about them moving to Australia next year and vegetarianism. 

We drove into town and parked by the unisex hairdressers, Andy was sat straight away for a number 1 head shave!

Just round the bay from us is the Big Kauri Tree Walk. A lady was taking survey details of where we lived and if we’d been in a kauri tree area before or not. We knew about cleaning our shoes with the disinfectant. 

Well maintained gravel pathways all the way with a couple of boardwalks, less than a mile in total through native forest. The lady said when you get to the second boardwalk walk look up as people have missed the massive old kauri tree. How they missed it is hard to say as it really was big and right next to the path, you’d need 3 if not 4 people to hold hands round it. It’s meant to be 1,200 years old, most kauri trees were chopped down when we invaded as it’s good for furniture. They planted lots of new trees here which have already grown very tall in the last 25 years. This one had a lot of ferns growing on it and had lost its own leafy top so I wondered if it was still living or not. 

It was a 2 hour 40 journey now initially along the lovely twisty coastal road before the flat plains as we approached Auckland. A slight diversion off the highway for petrol and ice cream. The Gelato Workshop Papakura, Auckland. Amazingly sharp refreshing long lasting flavour. A really strong Lychee flavour with little bits of the fruit in too. Just wonderful. 

We arrived at Mint car rentals just after 1.  We’d done just under 1,000 miles of travelling over the last 5 days! 

Everything went smoothly at the airport getting through bag drop, although it didn’t like my electronic boarding pass initially. Through passport and bag check. We shared an almond croissant and cheese & onion scone with coffees as we waited. Our flight was delayed by 30 but they thought we’d make up the time. Nice veggie food and we both watched films and TV shows. I watched ‘We are Still Here’ and Friends. 

Andy asked if they had any spare ice creams. We’d been given cheesecake with our meal. When they arrived they were quite melted but very tasty banoffee by Appley Farms, the brand I’d had in Taupo. 

We arrived on time but it took awhile to get off. Very quickly through electronic passport check. We’d completed boarding cards on the flight but as we’ve been hiking we had to declare our shoes. The guy wasn’t too bothered but had a quick look at them. We were straight through and onto the airport link train to Sydney centre by 7pm. 

I think we did this adventure the right way round with us coming to the North Island at the end with temperatures at 28 today in New Zealand but Sydney will be warmer. 

Mostly underground train but we popped out into daylight a couple of times included at the Circular Quay station for views of the Harbour Bridge. We were practically next door to Wynyard station at The Occidental Hotel. Jason and Tomoko are staying here too. It’s a quirky 1850’s building, we have an amazing corner room with views over the bustling streets below. 

It was 19:30 but our bodies are still in Kiwi time of 21:30. We walked down beneath the Harbour Bridge and round to see great views of that and the Opera House. The sky was pink but not much of a golden sunset. Lovely to walk round the front of the Circular Quay. We checked out a few ice cream places then weaved our way back to the hotel. We’d hoped to meet up with Jason and Tomoko but they were out for dinner with friends so we showered and relaxed.

Thursday 8th January, day 32. Hyde Park, Hunter Valley, meeting Trent’s family. 

Andy had met up with Jason and Tomoko last night and he thought they said they were going for a run and dip this morning but it was just the dip. We were awake by 7 so could have gone but the aircon in our room lulled me into thinking it might be a cool refreshing run. Within minutes of turning off the aircon we were sweating although the fact that Andy nipped out for coffee and a cinnamon bun might have contributed to warming me up. 

We walked up to Hyde Park as I used to walk through it from where I lived in Darlinghurst to town 30 years ago. I’d said to Andy I’d watched the New Year fireworks from The Rocks area beneath the Harbour Bridge but hadn’t realised last night it was exactly 30 years ago! Lovely to walk past the fountain and massive trees in Hyde Park up to the war memorial. Back to meet Jason and Tomoko for breakfast. 

We caught the underground to get the hire car. Great that they’re double decker trains. Jason and Andy are named drivers for the big posh Ford Everest tank of a car. Jason was happy to drive the 2.5 hours north to the Hunter Valley. 

We met Becky, Trent and Ella with Megan, Ken, Rachel and Joe at the Four Pines at the Farm for lunch before heading to our accommodation at the wedding venue The Lanes Retreat. Very posh little chalets. It’s rather warm, the car keeps telling us it’s 40 degrees. There was a kangaroo resting under a tree near the entrance. 

The heat made me feel quite tired so I was happy to relax. Andy had a walk around and found the pool and bar. 

Tea was at Circa 1876 Restaurant where we met Trent’s parents, Paul (Panda) and Cheryl. His brother Mitch and his partner Alex. His sister Kayla and partner Brad with their daughter Heidi who is a year and a day older than Ella. Lovely to get to know them before the wedding. Great food including the restaurants homemade ice cream and it was amazing. Just perfect. Then on the way back a kangaroo bounced across the road in front of us. We had a lovely starry night but a bit too much light pollution to fully enjoy it. 

Friday 9th January, day 33. Breakfast at The Deck Cafe Lovedale. Maitland for ice cream. Bimbadgen Cellar Door for pizza. 

Andy was awake by 7 so joined in with his families fortnightly zoom sat on the veranda. I made coffee and was delighted that the machine so was so easy to use. I usually manage to break them! We met Trent’s family at The Deck Cafe Lovedale for breakfast and sat under the shades with the fans cooling us. 

Back via the local shops and Tomoko spotted ice cream but I’ll wait until tomorrow. There were kangaroos under the tree near where we parked the car back at the resort. 

We’d offered to collect a couple of the wedding group from the local train station which meant a trip out for ice cream. It was only when we were nearly there that I realised my preferred place wasn’t open yet but we were passing another place. Cinnamon Donut which was a nice cinnamon level but quite sweet from the donut sugar. We found Caitlin and Caroline easily and they both wanted ice cream so we nipped to Woolworths for food and back for ice cream. 

Back to the resort. They had to wait 90 minutes to check in so came back to ours to relax and get out of the heat. Caitlin went off for the wedding rehearsal and we helped Caroline find their room. We thought about going for a swim but didn’t really have long before going out then Becky rang to say the minibus was ready to take us to Bimbadgen Cellar Door for pizza and meeting friends from the wedding party. 

Nice open area downstairs with fans trying unsuccessfully to cool us. We chatted to a few people as they arrived but mostly stayed in small groups. Andy was great at chatting to various people. We tried to convince people they should come to parkrun with us in the morning. Lovely pizza and baked Camembert. We ended up leaving when the bar shut at 8, just happy to get into some aircon. Lovely sunset over the hills by the chalets. 

Saturday 10th January, day 34. Parkrun. Swim. Breakfast. Ice cream. Afternoon nap. Wedding.

It was 27 degrees when we headed out for Nulkaba parkrun to join 125 others. I’d replied to a facebook post yesterday which warned of the heat today saying it was going to be my 200th parkrun plus we were coming from Leeds, UK. During the pre race chat the run director asked if there was anyone else from overseas which there wasn’t then instead of asking where people were from in Australia he asked if anyone was local, there were a few. Tom one of the groomsmen turned up. He’d run there!

They like to have a celebrity to start the run so asked me to do the start count down and ring the bell. I was a bit confused as to what to do with the bell after I’d rung it but it worked out fine. 

It was a hot there and back route with a little bit of shade in one section. We did it twice so it was nice to cheer people on and be cheered. As I turned on the 2nd lap I felt a gentle welcome breeze. They had ice pops at the finish which were very welcome. We gave Tom a lift back. 

We had a dip in the pool which was very refreshing before heading back to the chalet for breakfast. It’s a shame there isn’t a place to meet and chat except by the pool. 

We arranged to go for ice cream with Jason, Joe and Caroline back to where we’d been shopping yesterday. Aussie nuts (macadamia) and bush honey very creamy tasty ice cream. The honey really stood out but there were plenty of whole macadamias in it too. The others were on a successful hunt for parasols. It’s been really windy since we got back from parkrun which is lovely and cooling but hopefully that will settle nearer the wedding. 

I was tired when we got back so slept until 3pm. Up, showered and walked up to the wedding venue for 3:30. It was an open area with a few benches. Luckily there were a few trees and most of the guests gathered under these. Iced water was supplied. A kangaroo was close by enjoying the shade too. Close family were invited to sit on the benches we sat with Joe and Alex. Trent and his best man Mitch and 3 groomsmen were waiting. Megan was the first bridesmaids to walk up and after the 4th came Kayla with Heidi and Ella. Ella managed to walk some of the way but was carried the rest. Trent then held her until Becky and Ken walked up the aisle. Lots of tears around. 

We had the history of how they met before the exchange of vows and rings. Rachel entertained Ella who was good throughout the ceremony. Photos with the whole group then family groups and we left them to it to cross into the wedding reception area for drinks and nibbles. One of the waiters was very good at finding me when they brought out vegetarian food. We had photos by the LOVE sign with the pond and fountain beyond. It was lovely chatting to Trent’s family and seeing how well the fathers got on.  

We were on 3 long tables for the reception with Becky and Trent on the head table. One of Trent’s friends did a great job of MCing.  The 2 fathers did their speeches then main course came out, vegetarians first of course. Mitch and Caitlin did their speeches with Caitlin having a video of photos of Becky over the years. Andy was great a videoing a lot of the speeches. Cake cutting. Then Ken and Paul did their speeches before Trent. A short first dance and they invited us all up on the floor. It’s was great to see how many people danced. It was a good varied play list with plenty of songs I recognised.

There was a selection of deserts by the bar area to graze on. Some very nice cakes.

We danced plenty and sat and watched. It was a lovely fun day. It was wonderful looking at the stars as we walked back to our room as there was little light pollution. 

Sunday 11th January, day 35. Brunch in the Hunter Valley to Cronulla, Sydney. 

Andy was up at his usual time but I struggled to wake up so was happy to have coffee and breakfast in bed. Check out wasn’t until 11 so we had a very lazy morning. It was a much cooler morning, very hazy. I decided I should walk round the pond by the chalets. So we dropped the bags in the car and walked round. I was too slow getting my camera to film the birds flying over it. 

Brunch was booked at Harrigan’s Hunter Valley. Lovely to see Trent’s family again. We stayed chatting and had some tasty food. Jason and Tomoko are heading up to the Blue Mountains tonight so we set off with Andy driving the 3 hours to Cronulla where Andy, Joe and I are staying. 

Joe is staying with Rachel near to us and Jason took him there after calling at our hotel.  Andy and I have an ocean view room in a posh hotel near by. It’s amazing watching the crashing waves. Despite the pouring rain we still went for a walk for ice cream. Jason and Tomoko had recommended a chain of gelato shops and as one was close by we went there. Gelato Messina Cronulla.  Simon Says We Aren’t A Cult. (Baked cheesecake with waffle cone fudge & ritz cracker crumb). Didn’t really taste like cheesecake but it was a very creamy ice cream with lots of lovely crunch from the various waffle, crumb and cheesecake. Nice sweetness from the fudge. No idea where the name came from. We walked up the beach and watched the waves crash into the ocean side pool. Someone was doing laps and 2 guys turned up and dived in. Crazy what people do. We bought a couple of pitas one with halloumi the other falafel. Andy asked for chili sauce. They were great. We relaxed in our room it’s been a busy few weeks. 

Monday 12th January, day 36. Run with Becky, Coffee with Joe and Rachel, Breakfast with Becky, Trent and Ella, shopping, ice cream and airport. 

Sydney 19:10 to Singapore 12:20.

Singapore 02:10 to Manchester 08:35

Awake at 7 and message from Becky saying about a 9am 10km run. It was pouring with rain. We packed up most of our stuff just leaving post run clothes. Andy got us some proper coffees as the machine in our room just did tiny espressos. We met Becky by South Cronulla beach and the rain had died down. Trent and Ella stayed at home because of the rain. Andy knew his ankle was a bother so possibly wouldn’t do the full run and ended up doing 5k plus had a swim. We headed south passing Shark Island which you can swim too, Shelly Beach following The Esplanade round to the bottom tip of Hungry Point then back past where we met and out towards the Cronulla Sand Dunes. She pointed out various landmarks like national parks and good places to walk. The esplanade was where she and Trent had their first walk together. Becky pushed a good pace for me but was having an easy run so we could chat! It was lovely to see her. As we came past the hotel again I took a short there to shower then join her with Joe and Rachel at Rushi. We had drinks and ordered take out breakfasts as Ella was awake so we needed to head back. Joe and Rachel will see them tomorrow so went for a walk. We headed back with Becky telling us where her new gym will be, she has quite flexible working hours to suit Ella, Ella’s day care and their swimming pool. All within walking distance from home. We spent an hour chatting with Trent and playing with Ella. Lovely to see their amazing open plan apartment. 

Next stop was a trip to Westfield, Miranda Mall for shopping. No joy finding the chocolates Amelia wanted, the DVD’s for Andy or a new ice cream! We got the train back to Cronulla and managed to get Lime cheesecake cremino at Gelatissimo Cronulla. Very refreshing sharp lime and great crunchy cheesecake bits. Loved it. We also had success with the chocolate for Amelia, phew!

We had plenty of time before the flight but were both tired so got the train to the airport. It took just over an hour. Lovely to see the changing areas of Sydney, how green it is plus the amount of water around. 

We both changed into travelling clothes with warm layers in our carry on bags. We checked in our big bags this time. We shared some food and watched the wedding videos before finding our departure gate. We still had 2 hours to wait but this passed quickly. 

We were near the back of the plane with window seat for me. I watched The Life of Chuck as Andy had really enjoyed it on the way out. Great food, another Indian meal then sleep. It was quite a rocky ride but I know I did sleep a bit. 

Tuesday 13th January, day 37. Flight to Manchester, trains to New Pudsey and walk home. 

They woke us about 90 minutes before we landed to give us samosas and water. I’d been watching a documentary about Dolly Parton before I slept so finished that. We were 30 minutes early but as usual took awhile to disembark. 

We had to get to a different terminal. We had at least 2 hours to transfer. Luckily we worked out that it was a 20 minutes walk rather than going on the transfer train. We sat in comfy seats near our gate before going through bag check to get our final plane home. I fell asleep straight away as it was 5 in the morning in Australia. I woke for our Indian veggie meal then slept about 4 hours. It was just us 2 on the 3 seats so we could spread out a little. I watched a couple of films then read. Andy got us some snacks as it’s a 14 hour flight and long time to go between meals. Indian curry for breakfast and then we were landing in Manchester. Train home and shopped as we walked passed Asda. Unpacked, showered, first load of washing in, sat in the sofa and started opening our post, Christmas cards and presents within an hour of getting back. 

Just the most amazing adventure, can’t believe what we’ve crammed in. 

192. Try Off Road Taupō 50KM ULTRA TRAIL RUN. 13th Dec 2025.

Try Off Road Taupō 50KM ULTRA TRAIL RUN. 30.82 miles, 1,060m of ascent. 7:46:54. 28th of 33. 15th lady. 121st Ultra

We were up at 4:30 and walked to the Spa Thermal Park for the 5:45 race briefing. There was little a collection of gazebos & food vans gathered around the start area and over looking the steamy river, was it steamy due to the cold morning air or hot springs entering it? It was quite a small event with only 260 competitors taking part across the triathlon, 10k, 26k and ultra. A prompt 6am start for the ultra. We followed the river bank but were mostly sheltered by trees on the undulating dusty track. We loved every glimpse of the wild Waikato river beneath us and stopped frequently for photos as others ran on by. It’ll be interesting to see our moving time compared to race finish time. Soon we were crossing the river and passing the massive silver geothermal pipes, we’d seen on the bus ride to Taupo, before climbing up into the pine trees. We were in mountain bike country with twisting, turning, narrow tracks to follow within the pine trees on steep hillsides. We had the route on our watches but there were plenty of yellow event signs with black arrows pointing the way. 

Suddenly we were in the open an area of new pine tree growth with lots of colourful plants especially purple lupines. No real smell even the pine didn’t stand out. The zigzagging of our tracks was very noticeable here as we could see people dotted ahead and behind on various paths, you couldn’t always work out how far off they were. The tracks almost touched in places so it would have been easy to make a few significant shortcuts! 

Then we were flying down again and I embraced my inner mountain bike rider and swooshed down the bends. It was wonderful and good fun. 

We climbed again to a marshal who handed us green wrist bands and pointed us to the left track. About 6 miles later we returned to him, sadly the course repeated a 4 mile section when it could have explored somewhere different. This time we turned right and headed steeply down to the geothermal plant and a lot of flat running and into the ‘craters of the moon’ area. We didn’t explore as much here as I’d expected to. I’d got sticky fingers from my jam and nut butter wrap so was pleasantly surprised when I washed my hands and discovered that the small stream was warm. We followed this stream for a while.  I saw a couple of sections of steam rising from the ground but had expected to see much more of the whole geothermal area. We didn’t end up on any of the boardwalks or viewing platforms, so I’m quite disappointed that the race details say ‘ a thrilling 24k loop through the Craters of the Moon.’!

I had to loosen my left shoelaces as my shoe felt tight across my forefoot but the pain in my foot intensified initially then seemed to settle on the flat. Andy’s ankle was becoming increasingly painful. We were reduced to walking or slow jogging for the last third of the race. This gave us time to appreciate the greenery around us with glimpses through to the gorgeous wide blue river. We soon crossed the road by the Aratiatia Dam, 3 hours ahead of the cut off but 30 minutes too early for the scheduled water release. We crossed the road for views & photos from both sides of the bridge, as the water was so impressive as though they were releasing it. 

The checkpoints were frequent, every 5 to 10k, and had water and electrolytes plus crisps, pretzels and sweets. They also had factor 50 sunscreen which I used at most places. I’d burnt a little in a few places yesterday I guess after the swim and didn’t want to aggregate it. 

Lovely river views from time to time as we took the higher track to the finish. Back on mountain bike tracks so lots of zigzags. The landscape was different again here with older, tall pine trees with brown lower limbs creating a softer track where they’d fallen. There also seemed to be so much more bird song here. 

I’d noticed a sign about traps to remove pests so they can protect the native wildlife, an animal possibly a stoat hung from a trap near the sign. 

We’d not seen anyone since the steady stream of people overtaking us on the flat tracks around the 20 mile mark so we were surprised that someone appeared behind us just as we entered the Spa park and the finish line appeared. Such a good feeling to finish, very happy with sore feet. Medals, checkpoint snacks plus low carb beer and fizzy drinks. I found an ice cream vendor too, amazing!

We headed down to the river where Otumuheke Stream hot (lukewarm) springs feed into some pools by the river. So lovely to sit in the water. Andy went into the edge of the fast flowing river. It was a lot colder there so I sat with my legs in the cold water and my body in the warmer bit. 

We didn’t stay for the 3pm prize giving. Andy headed straight to the hostel, I bought food to cook there so we could just relax!

191. Hardmoors 26.2 Goathland trail marathon. 8th Nov 2025.

Hardmoors 26.2 Goathland trail marathon. 27.5 miles, 1,137m of ascent. 6.50.23. 72nd of 105. 16th lady. 6th in age.60. 71st marathon.

Gorgeous day out in the North York Moors. Moody, misty, muddy and mizzly.

Wainwrights Nov 2nd to 4th 2025

Sunday 2nd Nov 25. 

Gorgeous autumnal day out on the Skiddaw horseshoe with a few extra Wainwrights to total another 7!

12.6 miles in 5 hours with 1,665 m of climb. 

Bagged Ullock Pike (690 m) • Long Side (734 m) • Carl Side (747 m) • Dodd (Skiddaw) (502 m) • Skiddaw Little Man (865 m) • Skiddaw  (924 m) • Bakestall (674 m). 

Got chilly on Skiddaw but otherwise a really good day with lovely sunshine across Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water. Relaxed with a Sunday lunch in The Pheasant Inn the other side of Bassenthwaite Water.

Monday 3rd Nov 

Lovely day out again just a few bits of gusty winds and rain but not too bad. 13 miles, 1,084m of climb in 5 hours. Pleased we had lots of views as at times we couldn’t see anything then suddenly the clouds parted.

4 more Wainwrights on the Calbeck Fells. Carrock Fell (662 m) • High Pike (658 m) • Knott (710m) •Great Calva (691 m) 

Lovely to catch up with Debs and Scott then food again at the Pheasant Inn. 

Tuesday 4th Nov

Rainy night and forecast for more. We’d decided to do Binsey on its own and therefore miss 5 miles of road. Head to toe in waterproofs and up the 0.75 mile and 193m of climb. We had misty views behind us but couldn’t see much from the top. Back down the same way to the van, a grassy path just right for a jog. Binsey (447 m) 33 minutes for 1.5 miles. 

We’d put plastic bags on our seats so got straight in and drove for 7 minutes to the start of the Uldale fells. Driving rain, swirling gusts of wind giving us views at times and snatching them away very quickly. 

7.23 miles 776m of ascent in 2 hours 24. 

Longlands Fell (483 m) • Brae Fell (586 m) Great Sca Fell (651) .Meal Fell (549 m) • Great Cockup (526

Celebrated 3 lovely days away with cream tea in the van. 

Lady Anne’s Way. September 2021.

Monday 20th September. Skipton to Grassington. 3 hours 45. 14.09 miles (16.01 average minute per mile)
Two days of marshalling on the Hardmoors 60 and Ilkley tri were not the best preparation for a 3 day run. My feet hurt!We caught the 11:31 train New Pudsey to Skipton via Leeds. I had a cruse bereavement client in the morning hence the late start. We walked through   Skipton getting sandwiches on the way to the castle. I’d not been before but as this is the official start of the Lady Anne Way and her birth place we had a self guided tour round. It’s so well kept and interesting to see the repairs and changes through the ages. 
The official Lady Anne way started to the left but our race route took us right. All pavement until we got to Embsey, not the best start for sore feet. I was amused as we crossed a couple of fields with strips of tarmac paths across them. 
There were a lot of fields and styles to go through. One just cut a corner of the road, we wondered why the path from the road was so overgrown with nettles etc. Quick note to stick to road on race day!
Around 5 miles we had our first real climb of the day with a good view of Barden reservoir. The path here didn’t match up with our route we headed to our left to find a faint path down that kept disappearing. As we reached the gate to road we found the good path which probably was just to our right! Mostly the route matches up to the path under foot but it hadn’t as we climbed up. 
Down the road to Barden Tower then on to the end of the Bolton Abbey estate. There was an ice cream kiosk, we both chose raspberry ripple. 
We were now on the Dales Way too but instead of crossing the bridge into the village we headed straight down to the river then up and away from the village. Very steep climb. This then curved round to Hebden and we climbed above the village on a high path to Grassington. Phlis came to meet us and walk the last mile into Grassington. 
We sat in the sun outside a pub I had riggwelter which was amazing Andy but also had a protein shake to make sure it didn’t go to my head. Jo joined us and we went to a different pubs despite changing to less sweety clothes I was getting cold. Hot chocolate helped. 
Phlis had made soup then vegetarian chilly with ingredients from his garden plus lentils the upside down plum sponge with damson jam. Amazing! Jo headed home and I fell asleep in front of the TV. 
A really good day, mostly easy route finding and only 2 really big climbs. It was too hot though. I was glad I had 3 bottles on me but shared the last with Andy. 

Tuesday 21st September.  Grassington to Hardraw. 8 hours 25. 30.6 miles (16.31 average mins per mile)
Phlis gave us a cooked breakfast before showing us the quick way back up to the path into Grassington. We didn’t start the watches until we reached the tree we stopped them at yesterday. We headed out of town as the route doesn’t really go into town at all but went further up hill than the turn off to the Dales Way. Both routes head to Kettlewell but we were heading to higher ground. There were a few times when the route on our watches followed the route on the ground but we could have cut a corner off. It was a steep climb to start the day then over the tops before heading down to Kettlewell. I thought we were crossing the river here to join the Dales way but we stayed on the same side and only went as far as the YHA rather than into the village. The path was lovely, didn’t climb up much and was mostly runnable. A few tricky bits before heading into Starbottom then over the road and Dales away to Buckden. Lovely to have use of the toilets in the car park before heading towards Cray – not sure where the rest of this diary went to

Wednesday 22nd. Hardraw to Kirby Stephen. 4 hours, 15.95 miles (15.03 average minutes per mile) 601m of ascent
It was a hot sticky night, I’m not used to a duvet this time of year and we only had one window open. Up at 7, Helen brought breakfast just after. Yoghurt, melon slices, bread rolls with Wensleydale cheese and ham. 
Alison rang me, a long one sided talk. 
We headed off just before 8 through Hardraw along the road towards Apple which on race day will have a checkpoint. We didn’t do that out and back but crossed the road and followed the riverside. It wasn’t long before we had a long steep climb up but were rewarded with views down to the Moorcock Inn and Garsdale station. We were then mostly following a good track along the hillside for quite a few miles before we came to the head of the next valley. A sculpture framed the view of the river below before the gentle decent. 
We passed a gate with an acorn on and wondered if the gate had been taken from another area but then saw signs for the Pennine Bridleway as we reached a road. A guy asked us if we were walking or running much to Andys disgust! After the ease of following the track we were now in and out of fields with lots of gates and stiles. The ground was uneven and harder to get a good pace in places. In places we had steps down which would be slippy in wet or icy conditions on race day.
We missed the castle as it was behind us as we crossed a bridge. By this time Andy had worked out a way of getting to the station without going into Kirby Stephen so we probably wouldn’t have stayed long. We knew it would be 2.5 miles from the town to the station and there was a chance we could get the 11:54 if we skipped that section. After a lovely section over some fields were we through some trees then along what I called nettle alley! It was awful as it was covered in bracken so you couldn’t always see the nettles or where to put your feet. The bent bits of bracken scratched our legs and the nettle stings intensified. Finally we were into open fields again before one last tricky section where we missed the path it’s self as it was down by the stream and we ended up trying to get through new tree growth and long grass on a hill side. When we next hit the road we followed it through Nateby until the Eden bridge then followed through some fields to a tarmac track that took us to the station. I knew that last bit was up hill but not how far it was. We were so tantalisingly close but even Andy who pulled ahead was close enough. I slowed down as I saw the train pull away as Andy did, then he started running again and I wondered if the station was just past the station building I could see but alas the train had gone. 
It had been a cooler day. It almost felt like rain at one point. We had over cast skies but blue skies ahead and the air was warmer by the time we reached the station. In all the day was much more rolling with just the one big climb
No toilets but a cosy waiting room to get changed in and eat the flapjack if carried plus soreen bar. Andy had again eaten nothing, I’d had 3 protein balls! We had our protein shakes which filled me up nicely. 
We sat on a bench outside to listen to more of the book but soon discovered our train was delayed. We thought the sign which told us it was delayed by was saying by 3 minutes but actually said 3 coaches. A lady on the platform had been told by signalling crew that the train wouldn’t come until they fixed the signals at Blea moor. Delightfully the electronic signs told us there was trolley service on the train! There wasn’t though and the conductor didn’t know why the signs still said that. Home late but happy

Tenerife with Mum and Dad, March 2025

Tuesday March 25th 2025

Flew to Tenerife to join my parents for a week. I was swabbed for explosives going through passport control! First pint of the holiday at 6:30am, coffee of course! Exploring the resort and dinner at their favourite restaurant Atlántico Sur.  

Wednesday 26th. 

We’ve had an absolutely fantastic day today visiting the very remote picturesque village of Masca. There has only been a road to get there since 1972 and it’s only just wide enough for 2 cars so it was quite tight at times. Mum and I were happy but Dad was terrified with the sharp bends, steep drops and close encounters. It took awhile to find a parking spot as it was so busy but we explored some of the village not going all the way down as the streets were steep and uneven. Really beautiful and very green on the hills around us. Dad was very happy to have his extra large ice cream. No 199. 26th March 25. Acc (lemon, orange and carrot). El Abuel, Garachico. Tenerife. Tangy citrus tastes and delicious. Wouldn’t know it had carrot it in. Dad got Acc, mint choc chip and cherry. Tea back at Atlántico Sur.  

Thursday 27th

We stayed local starting the day soaking up the sun then walked to San Blas for lunch at AJ’s. I nipped further on to find my 200th ice cream. Lemon. Vero Berry. Los Abrigos, Tenerife. Amazingly tangy! Gorgeous. Can’t believe I’ve had lemon lots of times but never on its own. Perfect number 200! Then a touch more sun bathing with tea at the apartment. Pain au chocolat for mum and dad. Toast with jam and cheese for me. 

Friday 28th

We headed north and walked around La Laguna and its world heritage sites. We found an ice cream, mango & lemon for me, Cloud (nube) and mentha chocolate for Dad and cake for Mum. We drove up to the Anaga national park. Such a contrast to the baron land around where we’re staying. We found a few view points but couldn’t see Mount Teide due to cloud cover but we were in the sunshine most of the day. Lovely views across the green hillsides and down to the sea. Often the car was under a tunnel of moss covered trees as we drove up into the clouds. Walking trails disappeared from either side but we didn’t explore. The road zig zagged down to the coast near Playa de Antequera where we could see massive container ships out at sea. Back in time for a bit of sunbathing. 

Saturday 29th

Another day on terrifying mountain roads. We stayed local and headed up to the Mount  Teide plateau. Mum and I loved the beautiful journey through terraced farmland done with pipes to water the crops but most were empty. A few reservoirs with dry stone wall sides and pipes topping them up. At the dude if the road was an open drain with water rushing down. Then into the cloud draped hillsides that changed from barren land to colourful rocks & pine trees before we popped out onto the lava covered plateau. We stopped at a viewpoint to look across at Mount Teide, its cable car pylons just visible. Nearly ran out of petrol but found a garage and queued up behind lots of mopeds to fill up!

Back to the coast and Palm Mar for ice creams. Apple cinnamon for me. Lemon, mentha and chocolate for Dad. Chocolate orange for Mum. 

I had a stroll along the coast before heading back to Atlántico Sur for tea tonight.

Sunday 30th

Mothers Day walk for coffee, church then Sunday Dinner at AJ’s before an afternoon of sunbathing on the balcony. 

Whilst they were at church I walked to Lis Abrigos and past it then back fur ice cream but it was too early. I nipped back after lunch No 203. Banana and toffee. Heladería y Yogurtería Artesanal YOFORYOU. Los Abrigos, Tenerife. Amazing, perfectly sweet. Very tasty and perfect amount of toffee. 

Monday 31st. 

Today I walked along the coastal path to Las Galletas. Interesting volcanic scenery covered in cacti. Great views inland of Mount Teide. My ice cream shop was shut but luckily I’d spotted another place. Great walk back over a volcano, Montaña Amarilla. 

Final evening meal back at Atlántico Sur. Will be sad to head home but looking forward to seeing Andy. 

We’re going home, we’re going home, we’re on the road to that leads to Rome.  

To where the sun is nice and hot away from this benighted spot To Rome sweet Rome

From the musical ‘1066 and all that. From 1935

Tuesday 1st April. 

Up early but then ready by 10:30, easy drooping car off and through the airport with mums stick taking us through priority. Dad was swabbed. 

Jason and Tomoko’s wedding and our Spain holiday October 2024.

Tuesday 15th October 2024

Leeds to Alicante

Pete C dropped us off at the airport at 12:40. Mum and Dad’s taxi arrived 25 minutes later. Andy showed my boarding pass instead of his own, which the attendant happily accepted.The other attendant realised what he’d done when I tried to use the same pass but she was happy to accept Andy’s pass for me! Straight through bag check although our egg mayonnaise wraps were thought suspicious so needed checking. Luckily Andy had those as I waited for Dad to empty all 4 pockets before going through the X-ray machine. 

We ate lunch at the Saltaire bar. Mum and Dad sharing a large breakfast. We shared veggie nachos as we’d eaten leftovers before we left home, to empty the fridge.  Andy had cut piece of Amelia’s birthday cake, that we’d been given on Monday evening, into 2 slices and brought it with him. Dad was happy with his piece. I had to help Mum with hers as she’s being good with her diabetes. 

Andy and I filled our water bottles and we headed through to the boarding gate. A official took pity on Mum when he saw her stick so took us through a short cut which avoided a queue. 

Andy easily found room in the overhead lockers for all our luggage. He sat across the aisle from us and Mum took the window seat & Dad in the middle. Mum and Dad both got drinks. We had our ‘suspicious’ egg mayo wraps. Good journey.

Alicante

Smooth exit from the plane but a small delay getting through passport as the machine didn’t like mine. 

We got a taxi to the hotel and when we arrived Joe was in the restaurant, in view of reception. Our rooms were all on the same floor as reception so dropped our bags and joined him. Lovely hotel, with views from the restaurant over the golf course. Joe and Andy ordered food. Mum and Dad ate their Morrisons sandwiches. They all went to bed not long after 9pm. 

Ice Cream Hunt 

Andy & I went for an evening walk. Initially to see the hotel’s wedding venue downstairs which is lovely with the palm trees. Then towards the beach. We looked at potential breakfast cafes and at ice cream shops. The first ice cream places were shut but we found one on the beach front. She wasn’t happy as she was about to shut and I hesitated trying to find a new flavour. Luckily Andy spotted melon. He had Turrón (nougat). I was delighted. Really sharp rich flavour. Great way to start the holiday. 

We walked back for just after 11pm which is 10pm in the UK. Andy worked out the air conditioning as I unpacked. Massive room with twin beds pushed together to make a very big bed. 

Wednesday 16th

Exploring Locally. Beach and Trams. 

We’d agreed to meet at 9am for the hotel breakfast. It was an amazing spread of cooked food, a fruit & yogurt, meats and cheese and a sweet section. Dad went for pain au chocolat(s). Mum and Joe had cooked breakfasts. We started with fruit, nuts and yogurt. Slight struggle with the coffee machine sometimes giving very watery coffee. Dad had hot chocolate. 

We got ready for heading out and had a look at Joe’s room with a massive balcony. He, like Mum and Dad, overlook the golf course. Ours faces out to the road at the front of the hotel.

Beach

We showed them the pool and wedding area. Then headed down to the beach. The walk had felt much shorter last night in the cool. There were benches to sit on facing the sea in the shade. Joe and Andy dipped their toes on the Mediterranean. We walked slowly along the shoreline towards the hills in the distance. 

Andy found a nice cafe for lunch. Dad had an amazing chocolate milkshake. We had avocado on toast. Lovely food. 

We’d decided to explore a little on the trams and headed up the coast a few stops before heading back to the hotel. Andy and Joe could only work out how to get single trip tickets on the tram payment machines. I was shattered and so were Mum and Dad. Luckily there’s a tram stop near the hotel. We passed some restaurant options so Andy had a quick look hoping we’ll get something later. 

Rest then Evening Meal. 

Joe did some work and Andy read on the restaurant balcony as we rested. At 5pm we went in search of food discovering places either weren’t serving all that was on the menu or didn’t start until 8pm.  We found a place to sit as we did some research. Joe had a meeting at 7 so headed back to the hotel. 

We got a tram to the beach area and walked to San Fish. Mum was pleased with her frutti di mare pasta. Dad had fish and chips. Andy a stir fry chicken and vegetables. I had a pizza. 

We walked down the beach and got ice creams for Mum and Dad. (Chocolate and mint) from the place we’d been to last night. The serving lady was in a much better mood! We found them a bench to sit on near some empty beach restaurant tables and we then headed off to find a different ice cream shop a little further down the beach. Two places were shut so we headed inland a little but couldn’t find the next place. We passed a brand we’d tried earlier in the year then another closed shop. Finally we found Cucuruchone and even though they’d cleared the ice cream away they were happy to serve me Sabayon. Andy looked it up as my phone had run out of power. It’s like a custard or very light mousse. It was a little tangy from the wine it was made from, sweet with a delicious taste that kept building up.

We found Mum and Dad who had started to feel deserted, even thought the restaurant tables were now full. We were close to the other tram line and two stops later we were back at the hotel, for around 9pm. We tried to get their aircon working and Andy asked reception. The hotel handyman tried unsuccessfully and offered them a different room but they’re happy to wait for tomorrow. 

Reading and rest before bed.

Thursday 17th

Breakfast Out and Exploring the Old Town. 

We met at 9am and caught a tram towards the main town. Andy had found Brunchit for breakfast. Dad chose a banana and strawberry smoothie instead of a chocolate milkshake. We were pleased he was happy to have bread with crushed tomatoes and ham. We took the grilled cheese and salad that he didn’t want. Mum and Joe had omelette. We had avocado on toast with cheese and salads. All very nice. Mum found a tiny slug in her salad which Andy took off her plate The waitress was apologetic and gave him a free coffee.

Joe headed back to do some more work and the rest of us went into Alicante centre and old town. The tram toute took us round the base of the old Castell Santa Barbara. We hadn’t managed to buy tickets so we’re stuck when we got to the barrier at the main station. None of the stops we’d used so far had had barriers. We bought one ticket for Andy so he could go through. He then bought a 30 trip card from a kiosk and was able let the rest of us out. We walked down to the cathedral where Andy had arranged for us to meet Jason and Tomoko with her parents, brother and family. They’d been travelling overnight having met up in Frankfurt. Jason and Tomoko were showing them as much as they can as they head back to Japan on Sunday so we left them to it after a brief chat.

We walked to the harbour front and let Mum and Dad rest on a seat as Andy and I walked down the palm tree lined walkway. The ground was tiled in waves which Dad kept commenting on. We walked back along the harbour and found a place for a light lunch of filled croissants or empanadas. Andy had found a walking tour of the Old Town on his phone so we followed a little of that along the narrow streets beneath the castle. We didn’t do all of it as it would have meant going up hill quite a bit. 

I found an ice cream shop and had lemon & ginger. Sharp, refreshing and tangy. Tasty all the way to the end. Amazing. Mum bought a scarf. The tram line wasn’t far and people were kind giving Mum and Dads seats. 30 minutes back to the hotel. We got off the stop after the hotel and it was equal distance to the other stop but less roads to cross so we’ll use that again. 

Mum and Dads aircon has been fixed while we were out. They had a rest, as did I and Andy read on the balcony by the restaurant again. Mum sent a message when they were up. We saw Ken in reception, he’d arrived at lunchtime and had already been for tea so went off to read.  

Evening Meal by the Beach

Joe joined us as we walked back to the beach. Jason thought the 100 Montaditos restaurant that Andy had spotted last night would be good for my Dad. Initially we only found one English menu and it was hard to work out what was happening with the 100 mini choices for 1 euro each. Turned out they were little sandwiches. The only photos on the menu was of bowls of food such as the salads. We ordered pulled pork for Dad not knowing it came with barbecue sauce! Also got him french fries which he was happy with. Mum was happy with a couple of sandwiches. Andy and Joe got chicken salad. My three sandwiches were nice but a lot of bread for little nutritious food. 

Andy spotted a crepe bar next door and got me a vegetable filled crepe which was lovely. Dad and Joe had ice cream as we walked back. 

We saw Jason and Tomoko in reception. We had planned to wait up for Becky and Trent but their flight was delayed so we went to bed.

Friday 20th

Family Lunch and Hen & Stag Do’s. 

Andy and I did a 5k run along the beach front. We started at 7:20 before sunrise and the red sky above the sea was amazing. The sun wasn’t to due to rise until 8:12. We ran to the end of the promenade and back. 

Becky and Trent had arrived during the night and joined us for breakfast. 

We split up and did a mix of things in the morning: Mum had a rest as she’d not slept well. Andy went for a walk to the lighthouse plus to search for a birthday cake for Amelia. I met Trish who I used up work with as she lives and works over here.  

Lunch was booked for 1:30 with our family and Tomoko’s at Arrocería La Terracita Mayoral, which was along the beach front. Jason knew there was food for Mum and Dad as well as vegetarian paella for me. Lovely long lunch. 

Andy and I went back to look at the cakes for Amelia and bought one. We also went in search of ice cream but they were all shut!

Back for a siesta before the Hens and Stags were meeting in the pool area at 6pm. We had a drink and chatted to Kieran and Laura they had hoped to get to family lunch but their flight and taxi were both delayed. The Stags went off to town. Mum and Dad started with me and then Hens. We ended up staying for another drink as Tomoko’s friend, husband and baby arrived but their luggage hadn’t. We headed down to the beach at 8pm. Mum and Dad stayed as Kelly, Olly, Amelia and Rachel would be arriving soon. 

We walked to The Game cafe for cocktails but they had no gluten free food so we had a drink and Laura found a restaurant nearby by that had lots of choices for Becky. I sat between Tomoko and Becky with Tomoko’s Mum opposite. When Rachel arrived I moved to the other end of the table opposite Laura and Rachel initially joined me but then moved to my seat. I had patatas bravas. 

Tomoko wanted an ice cream so we headed to Milas before it shut at 11 then back to the hotel. Andy arrived not long afterwards with Tomoko’s dad and brother. He’d been using a translator app to chat with them.

Saturday 19th

Wedding Day

Out for an early run with Becky and Andy. Luckily, because she’s 5 months pregnant I could keep up with her as long as she chatted. Down to the beach front and we turned left, north. She wanted a 5k run but with a short walk to cool down at the end. The sun rose with glorious colours across the sea and sky. Becky did a handstand for a photo as the sunrise behind her! We met Rachel when just as we got back to the hotel. She’d been for a walk. 

Breakfast with the family. Jason and Rachel made plans with Mum and Dad. Tomoko and Mum would be going to the hairdressers together. Andy and I planned a hike but decided the hills were too far away so headed south to the lighthouse and round the bay to Albufereta. Lovely views across to Alicante centre and the castle. Rocky paths with a few climbs. A few nudists on the rocks. 

The first ice cream place we found open was a brand I’d had before. We headed to another place then realised it was one of the ones we’d looked at yesterday that was shut! We got the tram to central Alicante instead. Andy did a search for unusual flavours of ice cream and found a potential place called Borgonesse but we only found Mantecado. A vanilla, cinnamony, custardy thick ice cream. A creamy delicious treat. A relief to get a new flavour. We ate as we walked to the harbour. On the way to the team Andy had spotted another ice cream place to try another time, it had a new flavour!

Tram back arriving just before 3pm. We saw Dad walking back with Rachel, Becky and Trent. Mum was back already. Joe had slept in until 1pm and was sat in the bar with Olly so Andy & Trent joined them and I had a nap. 

The Wedding

Back up at 4:30pm and ready for gathering at 5pm by the pool side. The wedding ceremony was on a small decking area, just beyond the restaurant and overlooking the golf course. I sat in the front row with Mum and Dad, there was only enough seats for family. Everyone else had to stand. 

Jason walked in with Rachel with Becky and Andrew, the best man, just behind. Tomoko was walked in by her Dad. She looked amazing and quite a few tears were shed. 

As they were already married in Toronto this was really a renewing of vows and a family celebration.  

Tomoko’s father did a wonderful speech about how she was independent and worked hard to achieve her qualifications and travelled with these. He used to speak English well but is out of practice so had worked hard to present the speech. 

Dad read out a speech that Mum had helped him write about Jason growing up to be the man he is. Dad did really well ad-libbing a little and getting people laughing.

Jason & Tomoko said their vows to each other then lit a candle. It was a lovely celebration. 

We had drinks and snacks whilst waiting for the meal in the restaurant next to the pool. A good chance to chat to each other. There was a large group photo taken and a few family groups.

To find our seats in El Oliva restaurant there was a photo board where you find yourself on a photo and it showed you your table number. We sat with Trent, Becky, Joe, Rachel, Dad and Mum. We were asked to wave our napkins in the air as the newly weds arrived. The meal was amazing so many courses. Luckily my Dad ate most of his. 

Andrew Barber did a good speech mostly about how accident prone Jason was. He had Jason wear a hard hat and high vis jacket at one point. Then Jason did an unscripted speech in three languages as there were English, Spanish and Japanese guests. 

They cut the wedding cake with a sword and fed each other from the sword. 

It really was all very lovely. Jason and Tomoko were on a table just themselves but they also mingled a lot. The photographers were amazing getting every angle they could. Then producing a short video of the day for us to watch. https://youtu.be/Dt4KEnBvlb4?si=vd7jn-1V33A09uhM

We moved to a room inside the hotel to for dancing and a free bar. At first it was just our family on the dance floor. A lot of people seemed to go outside. Mum and Dad had decided to go to bed when Dancing Queen started to play so Andy and I danced with them and Jason and Tomoko took over. Then M&D danced with Tomoko’s parents which was lovely. 

We danced until midnight with various people joining us. Then as we headed to bed we recorded a birthday video for Jelly’s 18th. 

Sunday 20th

Wedding Guests Lunch and Alicante Castle Visit. 

Noisy night from the bars across the road. Wish I’d put my ear plugs in earlier. Up just after 9am for breakfast. An hour lazing by the pool then we walked down to the beach to Azul restaurant for lunch. It was meant to start at 1pm but took awhile to get going and we didn’t finish until 4pm. About 40 of us had various courses of salads and breads leading up to paella. Vegetarians were asked to sit on one table but people wanted to stay in their groups. We sat with a Canadian couple and their kids and a Spanish couple, the guy had worked Jason. They live in Murcia but he is Scottish. Lots of good food ending with puddings! 

Various goodbyes and a small group of us headed to town on the tram. Mum & Dad, Rachel, Jason, Tomoko, Becky, Trent, Kieran and Laura, Ken, Joe, Andy and I. Kelly and Olly went back to the hotel for Amelia as she’d not joined us for lunch.

A short walk to a lift to get up to the Santa Barbara castle. Ken, Kieran, Laura, Andy and I got off on the first floor and walked around the lower sections of the castle. Views back towards our hotel and beach area. A few rooms to look in with the history over the centuries and lots of fragments of pots. 

Mum and Dad, with the rest, went to the second floor by lift and walked up the last ramp to the top for wonderful views across the city with hills in the distance and sea. We joined them there.

Most of us were tired and no one really had a plan. Jason had originally planned a tour of the old town and tapas. We caught the lift back down and walked back towards the tram stop. I suggested ice cream at Peret, the place we’d researched yesterday. Everyone was happy to go there as it wasn’t far. I got Maple Pecan caramel (Dulce de Arce). Nice lumps of pecan and smears of maple. Very sweet and delicious creamy ice cream. Flavour no 167. 

Tram back to the hotel where we met Kelly, Olly and Amelia. They went for food with Andy, Ken, Becky & Trent. Mum, Dad, Joe, Rachel joined Tomoko and Jason in the bar. Dad and I had hot chocolate which I’m sure had caffeine in as I really woke up in the night and then couldn’t sleep. We chatted until the others returned. 

Monday 21st

Day Trip to Murcia

Rachel got a taxi to the airport for her flight home but 15 minutes earlier than planned so we didn’t see her go. We met Becky and Trent for a 10k run. Back down to the beach and left along it to 5k then back. Becky was pushing the pace and I was amazed I could keep up with her. Trent prefers to run at his own pace so dropped back a bit. Andy ended up running with him back to the hotel.

Jason had suggested a trip to Murcia and after a auick turn around for showers and we were ready to go at 10:15am. Mum, Dad, Joe, Kelly, Becky, Trent, Andy and I joined Jason and Tomoko in taxis to the bus station. Andy and Jason managed to get tickets for the 11am bus on their phones when we arrived at the station and bit long before the bus was due to leave.

Jason had lived in Murcia for 10 years so wanted to show us some of the old architecture and squares. It was lovely walking around soaking up the atmosphere. We walked over the river with fish at the weir trying to swim up it. A massive sculpture of a fish in one section, “The Sardine.”

We had drinks and tapas at the cafe by the town hall. Becky got a thick hot chocolate so I joined her but the initial drink they brought me was a normal hot chocolate. Jason got it changed. Dad had gazpacho and enjoyed it. Mum aubergine with fish and cheese. 

We found ice cream near another square and Jason suggested I try Paparajote, a typical dessert of Murcia, made with lemon leaves coated with a dough made with flour and egg that are fried and sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. This had been made into an ice cream. It had a strong taste of cinnamon. Very unusual with little bits of the fried coating in the smooth ice cream. Very tasty. I was quite surprised. Dad had chocolate and lemon. We sat in the shade awhile before walking back towards the bus station. Andy and Jason went to validate the bus tickets for the journey home whilst we got drinks at a cafe nearby as we had 50 minutes before the next bus at 5pm. 

Sadly Jason hadn’t been given all the right information and only 8 of us got seats on the bus. He and Tomoko stayed behind to get the next bus at 7pm. 

Back in Alicante Andy found a restaurant that would suit is all. The main group walked on the secure seats and it turned out to be the place where the Stag Do had been. Andy and I walked along with Mum and Dad. After the meal we got taxis back to the hotel as Joe, Becky and Trent had early flights so they needed to pack. Andy & I sat in the bar for quite awhile with Kelly and Olly chatting before heading off to bed.

Tuesday 22nd October

Alicante to Valencia

We had breakfast in the hotel with Mum, Dad, Kelly, Olly and Amelia. Mum and Dad got a taxi at 9:30 to the airport. We packed and I relaxed in our room updating the diary as Andy read by the pool and chatted with the Booth-Browns, whilst being entertained by the drilling work going on poolside. It was fairly overcast. 

We said goodbye to Jason and Tomoko as they headed to the airport and Porta for a mini-moon. The others weren’t leaving until the evening. We headed by tram to town then walked to the main train station searching unsuccessfully for ice cream. 

There was an X-ray security bag check to get on the train.  They checked our tickets by the platform and we were on 15 minutes early. Lots of leg room but backwards facing seats!

Train to Valencia 13:30-15:25. 

Very dry countryside, the train line went inland beyond the hills that enclose Alicante. We were close to the food carriage on the train but Andy had made sandwiches at breakfast for us. I updated my diaries then listened to podcasts. It was a 2 hour journey. 

It was a 2km walk to the Home Youth Hostel. We managed to find an ice cream along the way. It was tough to decide if it was a new flavour but I’d not had quite that combination before. Cremino tropical (mango cream with passion fruit and coconut swirls).  Delicious! Sharp taste from the fruits with chunks of coconut. Really refreshing. 

We walked past lots of squares with fountains and ornate buildings and as we neared the hostel the streets narrowed like an old town. We were within the old city walls soon after leaving the train station. The traditional style hostel was above some shops. We have twin beds with a shared bathroom just along the hallway. There’s a window in our bedroom opening into an open space above the main sitting area. We were surprised how much the sound was reduced by closing the window and shutters. We tried to put the beds together but couldn’t then get through the bedroom door! It’s quite a small room but perfect for us. 

We booked for breakfast €4.90 and decided to do their free city walking tour in the morning. We took a free map and headed out into the light rain to explore. My shoes slipped on the polished stone and the rain became quite heavy so we walked back for my trainers and our rain jackets. 

Exploring Valencia. 

We decided to head to the Turia Gardens, a beautiful 9 km-long park that winds through the city. The Turia River flooded in 1957 causing a lot of damage and deaths so it was diverted. Originally the area was going to be an urban highway but the population demanded it be turned into a recreational area, which wasn’t actually done until 1980s. The river bed is really wide with cycle tracks as well as plenty of paths between the trees. Lots of children were playing organised games in various courts along the way. Plenty of people out exercising or exploring like us despite the light rain. 

The old city walls were taken down when the city was expanded in the 1860’s but there are still a few gates in place. We walked to one before we found the sunken park then found another as we headed back to the city in search of tea. Andy had found a restaurant called Honest Greens. We both chose healthy Garden Bowels full of salads. Warm halloumi and added tofu and eggplant ‘meat’ balls for Andy. I had avocado super green and falafel. Amazing food. We were about to go and noticed it was pouring down so ordered a cauliflower mocha brownie with salted tahini caramel sauce covering it and caramelised walnuts and Choco caramel lattes with coconut milk. I’m so glad we shared the brownie as I was too full as we walked back. Luckily the rain mostly had stopped along with my sense of direction!

We agreed to have a lazy evening back at the hostel. 

Wednesday 23rd

Run, walking tour and food in Valencia 

Up at 8 for a 4 mile run along Turia gardens turning left instead of right. It had rained overnight but was dry as we ran dodging a few puddles. A central path seemed to be a little bit undulating for runners so we tried that but it wasn’t long before

Thursday 24th October

Valencia to Tarragona

Quiet dark streets as we weaved our way to the bus station arriving 6:45am so 30 minutes early. Lucas from the tour yesterday arrived same time as us but he’s on the 7am bus to Barcelona. 

Bus to Tarragona 07:15 to 11 (07:50 to 12:00). 

It’s a big bus station with 42 bus stops. A large screen told us our 7:15 bus to Barcelona left from stand 33. Everything in the bus station was closed so we walked down and sat near our stop. Just after 7am we moved closer to the stop. No one else was there. I doubled checked at the main desk and found all the little shops had opened up. By 7:30am Andy had found a way of tracking our bus in the Alsa bus company website. It was half an hour late leaving the last stop. He bought coffees and a spinach & cheese empanada each. 

We stowed our main rucksacks under the bus and went to get our reserved seats, 3 and 4, right at the front. Andy asked the driver to raise the blind so he could see out of the front. I was surprised how dark it still was at 8am, but this was not helped by the very tinted side windows. Very green countryside with built up industrial towns initially. We’d only been on the bus an hour when we stopped at a service station for a 30 minute break so we had more coffee.

I slept for some of the journey. Apparently the driver could see me and got Andy to recline my seat to make me more comfortable! I’d not really been listening to any podcasts since we left home so had those to catch up on for some of the time. Traffic slowed to one lane for quite a while as the bushes down the centre of the road were being trimmed. 

We arrived at the bus station in Tarragona at midday, an hour late. It was lovely and sunny as we weaved our way to Hostel 977. We passed a statue of a human tower or ‘castell’ and walked up the middle of the Rambla Nova for a short way before heading up a short hill with the cathedral at the top. We turned before there into a narrow ancient street to find the hostel. It’s a lovely hostel done up quite poshly compared to the last one. All whitewashed walls with a comfortable seating area as part of the reception area. Our ensuite room is 2 single beds pushed together with plenty of space to unpack clothes. We could leave our bags as our room were nearly ready and the guy was really helpful going through the towns main sites. 

He suggested we get the bus to Les Ferretes aqueduct, Devil’s bridge, but eventually showed us a nice way to walk there as Andy had struggled to find a good route. There’s a river bed with paths at its side and along the bottom. He kept saying there’s no water in it but we could follow it all the way to the car park for the aqueduct. I couldn’t find any information about where the river has gone!

Andy plotted a route through town to get to the river bed. I’d asked for ice cream recommendations so led us to Raffa gelati for Llet merengada (cinnamon and lemon zest). I have to be careful with the local dialect as Llet is leche, milk. Amazing tasting creamy ice cream. No sharpness from the lemon zest but plenty of cinnamon heat.

There was a path along the embankment which we followed as the path looked rough in the river bed which was overgrown with vegetation. I’m not sure where the river is. There was a little stream and further along but we moved away from the river at this point. Olives were being grown by the stream. Our path took us under a few bridges and within the vegetation so it felt like we were walking through a tunnel for awhile. 

We reached the turn for the aqueduct after 3.5 miles and walked up through the trees wondering when we’d see it. It’s a 2 tier aqueduct and was tucked in the valley hence us not seeing it. We walked over the 217 meters length. I felt safe as the walls along the top are quite high, I guess it held a lot of water. A lovely little setting well worth the walk. There were a few other visitors but not many. 

We headed back following the river bed back nearly to the sea but it was quite industrial so we walked round the fishing village area, El Serrallo. This is where the posh yachts are moored with their expensive on shore restaurants. We followed the coastline round until we could climb up to the Mediterranean Balcony for views over the beach. The main trainline and station goes between the sea and the cliff that town is built on. There’s a series of ramps, lifts and steps in place so you can get from the beach to the town. We had drinks at a cafe nearby (alcohol) Free Damm Lemon beer for me but with alcohol for Andy. A mix of beer and lemonade. 

The Roman amphitheater was near by so we walked past that and on passing the end of the Roman Circus and up to one of the Forums. We found ourselves at the cathedral which surprised us that we’d gone so far up and away from our hostel. We were only minutes from it as it’s quite a compact old town. 

We walked back for showers and to change as it had been a hot day. Andy spotted El Vergel vegan restaurant close by to us but it didn’t open until 8pm. We booked but were the only ones there for the first 45 minutes. Excellent food but they have set menu and you either have a 3 course or a starter or main with a pudding.  No option for starter and main. Andy had pumpkin and spinach risotto with pumpkin pie for pudding. I had roasted courgettes filled with vegetables and quinoa with baked apple for pudding. Delicious food. I felt good for not over eating as I could so easily have gone for the 3 course meal, spoilt for choice. 

We walked down to look at the amphitheater lit up then slowly back to the hostel. We started making plans for Barcelona as we’ve missed out on tickets for the sagrada familia but it’s choosing what to see as everywhere seems to be entry time controlled. I’d be happy just strolling around but it would be nice to go in at least one place!

Friday 25th

Run and exploring Tarragona, bus to Barcelona.

Excellent sleep except for people coming in noisily at 1am. Alarm went off at 8am and we slowly got up. Andy had worked out a run route that took us through one of the two old gates through the old city wall. We ran following the wall until modern buildings meant we had to follow the roads round but soon got back to another section of the wall. Modern buildings soon replaced the wall although they seemed to be built on top of the foundations using its massive blocks of stone in places. We passed the second gate tucked in between the buildings. We headed down to the shore line and up to the old fort which juts out at the end of the bay. It’s just the walls and you can’t go in. We didn’t explore the second higher fort. 

We ran back along the beach front to the other end then climbed back over the railway lines on the raised paths to get back to the Mediterranean Balcony and onto our hostel.  3.6 miles. 

Stretching and showers. Andy made coffee in the common area as we’d been given coffee pods and mugs plus little cakes. We mostly packed up but we left our running clothes to dry a little and headed to the Color Cafe for breakfast. I had aubergine, courgette and cheese sandwich and Andy ham, cheese and mushroom. Both with small double shot Americano coffees. 

Walking tour of Tarragona. 

We completed packing and left the bags at the hostel and headed out on our ‘homemade’ walking tour. Just below the hostel is part of the Roman Circus. We’d seen other sections and this helped get into perspective how massive the circus would have been for the chariot races. Further across the road was another section then the main curve at the eastern end. We walked round this in search of the entrance and ended up back in the slightly newer Roman tower next to it. We paid €15 for a day pass to see all of the monuments in Tarragona. The Praetorium was a Roman administrative building, and it connects with the Roman Circus. We climbed the stairs of the Roman Tower to the open roof deck for views across the city and down on the curve of the Circus. There was a model of the Roman city on the first floor which gave us a great sense of the original plan. 

Beneath the tower were long vaulted passageways. Just like modern arenas for people to move around. We walked through one and into the heart of the Circus. Quite impressive in size plus the work that went into building it in the first century BCE. 

Not far from here was the Amphitheater. It was built beyond the Roman Walls and close to the sea in the 2nd century. It hosted gladiator battles and could hold up to 15,000 spectators. After being abandoned a Visigoth basilica was built inside it and later a larger church was built on top of that. You can still see the remains of all the various structures. Andy found information about an app that will show you computer generated images of the sites either as videos with someone being filmed walking around and explaining the history. Or point the camera at an area and half the screen becomes the artists view the other is what you can see. Very clever. It looks like it’s a world wide app. 

We walked down to the theatre stopping at Gabri Oliver for ice cream. I chose walnut cream, (nata nous) and Andy got rum and raisin, both were tasty. A lovely creamy melt in the mouth ice cream with lots of walnuts in. There’s little left to see of the Roman theatre and you can’t go inside. They’ve built the seats up in a light metal frame to give you an idea of what it would look like but the app showed it would have had many more rows above us. 

There’s not much of the Local Forum left either just some of the massive columns and a sense of the administrative areas. A bridge took us across the road to the site of a temple of Augustus, again not much to see except a section of its foot print. 

I was hungry, Andy had found a cafe nearby, Cafe Jardí. We were confused as we passed a health food shop of the same name on the way but they pointed us round the corner. Avocado, tomato and egg on bread for me with a spiced chai latte. Andy had salmon and avocado with a smoothie. Really nice. It rained heavily as we ate, we timed it well as it had just started to drizzle as we walked there. 

It was dry as we walked up to the Roman walls, that we’d run past earlier in the morning. They were built in the 3rd century BCE. You can walk along a preserved section and see the massive stones that once protected the Roman city. The app showed us how the wall was built with 2 rows of the massive boulders at the bottom to make it 5 meters wide the gap was filled with rubble. On top were cut stone blocks filled with bricks and cross walls at intervals to increase its strength. We could walk on the lower walls that were added during various Spanish wars in the 18th century. There were 3 Roman towers left for us to see. Only one has a gate next to it from Roman times we couldn’t go through but could see the width of the wall plus the strength of the archway. 

Our entry ticket also gave us access to the 18th/19th century family house of the Canal’s. A few fancy rooms and an alternative art gallery on the top floor but not really of interest to us. We headed back to the hostel and got sorted for the 20 minute walk to the bus station. We’d both really enjoyed Tarragona. 

Bus to Barcelona 16:20 to 17:55. (16:40-

Andy spotted the bus was late leaving its last stop so we weren’t surprised for it to be late. Our seats were half way back. We spotted the Devil’s Bridge aqueduct from the main road. Andy settled in watching Crocodile Dundee on the individual TV each chair has! We started the other bag of nuts as it could be a long time until tea and we had walked 6.4 miles today. 

It poured down on the journey and the sky was really dark but it was all much brighter when we eventually arrived in Barcelona North bus station. It was only a mile or so to walk to Susannah’s apartment. An amazing place, quite small but she’s had it adapted and added lots of original features back in such as twist light switches and had raised ceiling back to the wooden beams. We went onto the roof for a chat but I was bitten a little. We know Susannah  through some property courses she put on that Andy attended in Bristol. I don’t know her as well as he does.

She had family staying nearby so we arranged to meet with them at her favourite wine and tapas bar. The food was amazing. Garlic and tomato bread. I had roasted veggies and humous on bread then cheese canalones. We shared a mini cheese board and patatas bravas. They had salami, octopus and a dish with beans & meat in. 

Anna, Susannah’s cousin and her husband, Al, had been staying up the coast with their 13 year old son Kody. He wasn’t so keen on the food so Al took him for a burger and then back to their airbnb. Al came back in time for ice cream. Mamá Heladera produces some interesting flavours and has a request box too. As I’d had an ice cream earlier I just had a dark chocolate one which didn’t get added to the spreadsheet. Andy was adventurous and had the thyme flavour which came in 3 sorts with various mixes but he chose the plain thyme. Really lovely ice cream. 

Saturday 26thBarcelona exploring, Parc Montjuïc, Park Güell

Thunderstorms overnight. Lazy start to the day chatting to Suzanna before meeting Anna and Al for breakfast at The Little Fern cafe. It was pouring down but the rain had eased off when we left. Kody wasn’t up yet. Kimchi pancakes for me and Turkish eggs for Andy. We were there until 12 then headed back to Suzanna’s before heading to the cable car. We walked the 40 minutes along the sea front. The others took public transport. 

Parc Montjuïc

Up a lift in the tall tower then cable car across to a middle station then to Parc Montjuïc. Kody decided he wanted to go to the aquarium so Al took him. Suzanna, Anna, Andy and I walked up the hill to the Castell de Montjuïc. A massive fort overlooking the container ship harbour. We walked round its impressive angular shape and found the place where President Company’s was shot by a firing squad. 

We headed to the Miro exhibition that Anna wanted to go to. The rain started heavy as we approached it. There was a cafe so I had hot chocolate and chocolate croissant. Andy a cortado and lemon tart. 

Park Güell 

We left them and headed to the underground, easily getting a one journey ticket. Graffiti on the walls as we walked along said ‘Tourists go home’.  We’d seen that in Valencia too. We didn’t ever feel threatened and know it’s to do with Airbnb properties stopping locals being able to afford to stay in their neighbourhoods.

We’d got tickets for Park Guell at 18:00. Gaudi, famous for his bizarre architecture was asked to design this park. He built bridges, buildings and winding pathways in this park which over looks the city. Good views of the Sagrada Familia as well as the rest of the city. A massive platform from where we could see the 2 gateway houses below us. A big queue for one, the other was a gift shop we discovered later. 

We walked over one of the long bridges and down to his museum but continued exploring higher up and beneath over crazily designed bridges to the 3 crosses at the top. The park was full of people. We walked a long way but can’t say there was much to see. The buildings were amazing and decorative but small. We didn’t queue to go in at all, we had time limited tickets so wanted to explore rather than spend time queuing. There wasn’t much to see architecturally in the gift shop. 

We could walk beneath the platform and the ceiling was decorated. There were also fancy sculptures on the stairs down to the 2 gateway buildings and the exit. I’m not sure we really knew what to expect but it wasn’t as exciting as I’d hoped but was pretty. 

Tea and Sagrada Familia

We walked through to the Garcia area as Suzanna had recommended this as a good area for vegetarian food. It’s a lovely area with narrow streets in places and bars spilling out onto the streets. Bar Quinoa was perfect and tiny. We slid past the narrow kitchen and service area to find 4 tables at the back. We were asked to sit on the table for 2 and I ducked in under the slanting roof. There was another couple in there but no one else came in. We had tacos to start with then shared a Buddha bowl and burrito. All vegan food and full of delicious and nutritious flavours. There was a poster on the wall behind Andy that said ‘Make hummus not war’, I liked that. 

We walked through the streets to the Sagrada Familia. An impressive structure but not yet finished despite 135 years of work. The front and back were lit up and lots of people were walking around. By the main entrance there were street performer’s and a street market. We stopped to listen to the steel drummers for a little while then walked along the market. 

Ice cream

We were heading back towards Suzanna’s via the ice cream shop. We headed to the big cigar building and down from there. I had a slight panic when we were nearly there as I’d dropped a placement pin on Google maps to guide us there but couldn’t get it on the ice cream shop and when we got to it I couldn’t quite work out where to go but it was only a few buildings away. The streets are all in grids and often look a like as where the roads intersect the corners are smoothed off to form a square often with seating. 

Andy sent Suzanna a message to let her know where we were and we’d soon be back but they arrived at the ice cream shop at the same time as us. Thyme, in Spanish Farigola, made by Mamá Heladera. A very subtle taste but it was definitely thyme. Lovely quality of ice cream. She had a few other flavours such as avocado which Andy tried but he ended up with thyme with raspberry. 

We walked back making plans for tomorrow. I spotted the clocks go back when I looked at what time sunrise would be! Anna and family were heading home at 5am!

Sunday 27th

Walking around Barcelona. 

Up for a run just after 7. Nice sunrise sky as we ran north along the beach. We headed out along one spit but then stuck to the main path for a 6k run. 

Breakfast

Susanna wanted to take us to a more traditional local breakfast spot. She was spoilt for choice and wanted to try a bakery, Cruixent, with good reviews she’d not been as yet. It wasn’t far and she pointed out a few places along the way such as somewhere she’d hoped her son would buy. He lives a few streets away from her and came 7 years ago. She’d been here 30 years ago and stayed when she ran out of money as she hitched across Europe. She loved it so much hence wanting to come back now. She spends 6 months of the year here as part of visa requirements. 

There was nowhere to sit at  Cruixent so I suggested we walk and eat. We found steps to sit on. Suzanna had the recommended almond croissant. I had chocolate croissant and Andy a Sara. 

Breakfast was a little disappointing but Suzanna’s friend liked the place we went to for the coffee. I had toast with slices of tomato and avocado on and Andy eggs. 

More breakfast and Barcelona centre.

We left Suzanna as she had things to do and we walked to town. First stop was her favourite place for churros, Xurreria Les Palmeres. A fried batter sausage that you dip in thick chocolate sauce. I was in heaven! I don’t quite understand the churros but love thick chocolate like that. 

I’d spotted a few places to walk around with the help of chatGPT and Suzanna suggested some places too. We walked into the Parc de la Ciutadella with the Cascada monumental. A massive over the top statue with steps up and a very green pool of water at the bottom. Suzanna said sometimes there’s people dancing there. A lot of people walking around. We walked up the house of the three dragons and through one of the greenhouses of tropical plants.  Across the road was the Arc de Triomf, we didn’t join the veryf long queue to go up it. 

We weaved our way through the streets and stopped for coffee and water. Andy bought a chocolate croissant to share, 4th breakfast! Our goal was to see Gaudi’s houses initially the decorative Casa Batlló which we just looked at then further up to La Pedrera (quarry), also called Casa Milà. It had started raining quite heavy. We’d not brought rain jackets with us but found places to shelter. We’d been debating about visiting one or the other house. Suzanna liked Batlló but the others had really like La Pedrera and despite this looking plainer on the outside the roof looked exciting. We joined the queue to buy tickets but looked online and managed to get the last 2 for 13:30. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The white outside looks like waves rising up from the pavement with iron railings at the windows.  The entrance area took us into the hollowed out area of the house with colourful ornately decorated windows above us. Up in a lift with headsets and audio tour we followed the slow line of people around one of the apartments. A family home from the start of the 20th century. Andy didn’t like the idea of very few flat walls for putting furniture against. I loved the size of the bath. Gaudi paid a lot of attention to detail such as making door handles ergonomically from a cast of his own hand.  

Outside it was pouring down. We went up a level into the attic modelled on a whales rib cage. The wooden arches curved round the winding footprint of this unusual building, it was quite impressive and hard to explain. There was information about all of Gaudi’s main work and also about using the inspiration of nature in his designs. 

Sadly the rain meant it wasn’t safe to go on the roof which really would have been the highlight for its unusual sculptures. 

Afternoon tea

The rain had stopped as we headed out and onto the heart of the Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic) with the Cathedral and Roman towers and short section of aqueduct. We walked through a few streets but headed to Caelum  (“heaven” in Latin) as we were meeting Suzanna in her favourite cake shop. The hot chocolate was proper thick and tasty. Andy had horchata. We all had cakes and I loved my chocolate cake with marmalade filling. An interesting place the cakes were made by monks and nuns. We chatted for nearly 2 hours and Suzanna needed to get back. It was only when I read about it later that I realised we should have gone downstairs to see the remains of this Jewish quarter’s medieval public baths. 

Roman Barcelona 

We could see Roman streets beneath the city through windows and people walking about them. We went into the museum next to it but it was all religious monuments either crucifix’s or Jesus’ sat on Mary’s knee. We came out and found the back entrance to the Barcelona History Museum but were told to go the the main entrance even though we didn’t need to pay! Under the city is the footprint of old Barcelona with in its city walls. It was wonderful to walk on the clear plastic walkways over the streets and see what the different areas were thought to be such as a fish preparation area, wine making, dyeing. Really extensive as they took you through different parts of the history of the city. We both really enjoyed that. 

We walked round a few streets to see 4 columns that have been preserved in a

small courtyard from the Temple of Augustus, built 1st century BCE. They didn’t seem to be a tall as I expected but were still impressive.

It was dark as we made out way to the Palau Güell, another Gaudi house but only decorative inside and on the roof. It was free entry but they’d closed the queue. 

Tea and ice cream. 

Suzanna also suggested we visit a well decorated theatre, Palau de la Música Catalana which we could walk round a little inside too. This was close to the restaurant we’d chosen for tea Flax & Kale. A heathy eating place with a few none vegan items. We had kale chips dehydrated kale with a sauce made from cashews, nutritional yeast and turmeric. Really nice. Main course for me was MY VEGAN JAPANESE GIRLFRIEND BOWL which was black rice, quinoa,  ‘bbq pulled pork’ jackfruit, ackee” plant-based scrambled eggs, yakiniku sauce and coriander. Amazing! Andy had squash and blue cheese pizza which had grapes and walnuts on. Great quality food. 

Suzanna had a zoom meeting until about 9:45 so she’d asked us to come back after that. We’d finished eating just after 8. We strolled down La Rambla passing all the street artists and restaurants crammed onto the busy tourist stretch. The Columbus column at the end wasn’t lit up. We headed north towards the next ice cream place, Gocce di latte, recommended by Suzanna. It had been a tough day passing lots of places and I was worried there might not be a new flavour for me although I’d spotted one online but it turned out to be a sorbet. So I had turmeric, mandarin and rosemary. The turmeric came across quite powerfully. I don’t think I really noticed the others. Amazing quality. Yet again a very happy girl. 

We walked back along the beach front, it was a lovely evening. 

Monday 28th

Train Barcelona to Paris 09:28 to 16:12.

Up at 7:30, tea and chat with Suzanna as we packed. She walked to Cruixent, the bakery with us as she’d enjoyed the almond croissant so much. I got the last almond croissant and a chocolate one. Andy got some pine nut balls with marzipan inside and another pastry. 

The metro was quite easy to negotiate the different trains. The second was really packed but just for a few stops. Andy had a quick unsuccessful look for sandwiches. Bags went through the Xray machines and we were down stairs to the train. There was a very long queue for our door. In the end we went to the next door, up the stairs to our backwards facing seats. The train set off spot on time and straight into a tunnel for at least 5 minutes. The WiFi didn’t work and we didn’t even get mobile data. Even going into our first town I thought I’d get reception but again the station was deep underground. We’d eaten our food  within 30 minutes. I hoped there’d be more shops at the station but the food is meant to be good on the train although I spent €16 on 2 small coffees a cookie and little cake!

Interesting journey following the coast line up to Montpellier. I thought we’d be more inland. A lot of flat land with the occasional town, castle or hill top. The day picked up and I don’t just mean because Andy brought out the wedding nougat we’d been given. A tasty treat. 

It was gone one before our tickets were checked but they’d been checked twice before we boarders. Then 14:30 they came to look at our tickets and glanced at our passports after the last stop in France before Paris. 

Paris. 

We arrived on time and there was no ticket check. I’d spotted an ice cream place on the way to our hostel so we headed towards the Place de la Bastille along one of the wide streets. Grace Room and Rose flavour. It tasted pink, a subtle rose flavour. Lovely ice cream. Very pleased. 

We followed a wide street with park areas in the middle. One area had several people playing bowls. In another there were workout stations in use such as weigh lifting. 

Hostel and tea. 

We’re on the 6th and top floor of the hostel, The People. We were welcomed with sunset views over the Eiffel Tower! The guy on reception was surprised when I asked about steps to the top floor as everyone uses the lifts. 

We headed out to tea as Andy found a great vegetarian Indian restaurant near the north train station Chennai Dosa. We couldn’t decide what to have so ordered Thalia’s. Andy also ordered a starter and ended up with one each as he said 2 meaning the 2 pieces that came. It was all amazing. I was stuffed though. 

Walkabout. 

We had a walk through the streets down towards the river passing some massive buildings including one that looked like a Roman Fórum. We could see the search light from the Eiffel Tower but we turned away from it and walked along the river towards the Hotel de Ville. We walked in front of the Louvre and on towards the Place de la République and Statue of Marianne. We stopped for hot chocolates in a side street somewhere and watched the world go by and bins getting emptied at 9:30 at night! 

Back just after 10. Lovely evening exploring I wondered how much of Paris was damaged during the world wars as the buildings are stunning. It seems little was. 

Paris and London

29th Tuesday

Exploring Paris then Eurostar to London

The Eiffel Tower was half hidden by mist. We left our bags at the hostel and walked up to the park Belvédère de Belleville. There were lots of walkways between the trees. People playing table tennis and doing exercise like tai chi. We didn’t go to the very top but wandered back and through the market. Lots of fruit, vegetables and fish on sale as well as clothes and household goods. 

Breakfast

ChapGPT had recommended a healthy place for breakfast near to where we’re staying, Cafe Mericourt. It was a busy place that filed up quickly whilst we were there. 

Andy had Chakchouka baked eggs in tomatoes, red peppers, onions, spices and harissa. 

And Green eggs and feta for me. baked eggs in spinach, leeks, onions, pine nuts, spices and feta. The coffees were tiny and held a double shot. A good start to the day. 

Roman Paris. 

We walked along the wide avenue to the July Column in the Place de la Bastille again. No one was playing bowls today but little patches of green and play areas were nice to walk down when we could. Over the river to the island then back and up to the Arènes de Lutèce. The amphitheater was hidden behind some buildings that cover one section of it. It’s not the original but gave a sense of the 1st century CE arena which had been used for a theatre before being covered over. Vines were growing at the top levels.  

Our onwards route took us up some stairs with plants mostly moss growing down the sides of. Then through Fontaine Place De La Contrescarpe where we stopped for a coffee for Andy and CHOCOLAT CHAUD VAN HOUTEN for me. Nice little fountain to people watch and see cycling tour groups go by. We walked past the massive Panthéon with the tall columns and impressive statues but didn’t stop. We walked to the Musée de Cluny (the National Museum of the Middle Ages) to see the Roman Baths but as we started to walk round we realised it was the closed section. They were kind and gave us our money back. 

Andy was keen to see the Eiffel Tower so we walked to the river and followed it round. We soon saw a guy selling crepes from a cart so we stood in the short queue and watched him hand making them. I had Nutella, of course and Andy sugar and lemon. Nice treat. 

Eiffel Tower

Notre Dame was behind us and we walked down to the lower level alongside the river. Walking past boats and under bridges including the one we’d crossed yesterday. One tease of ice cream but they weren’t selling it just advertising. We occasionally saw the Eiffel Tower but it was still 40 minutes walk away. We had a good stroll and came up to road level near the Tower. We didn’t cross the road to the Tower but crossed the river and up to the balcony of the Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre for views back across to the Tower. 

Behind the balcony was a large roundabout and off to the side the Le Glacier du Trocadéro. It took awhile to understand what flavour ice cream it was going to be as one lass said walnut the other pecan. There was no sign in it as there were with the others, most of which I could work out I’d had already. There wasn’t much choice.  Luckily there were pecans in it so I know it was pecan syrup not walnut syrup. It was very sweet with a caramelised crunch from the sugar at times plus the nuts. Delicious.

Arc de Triomphe

We walked up to the Arc de Triomphe but just admired it from across the road. We ended up going under the Arc and up to it as we tried to follow googles directions for the underground station which is beneath the Arc. Finally we found the stairs down a little way from the stairs Google wanted us to go down but no obvious metro sign. We joined a queue for tickets then followed several passageways until we found where the train went from and it took us straight through to the hostel. 30 minute walk to Gare Du Nord. We stopped for a last French treat pain au Chocolat for me and pastry for Andy. 

Paris to London Eurostar. 18:02-19:39, clicks go bank an hour to British time. 

We looked for sandwiches at a few places near the station then found a Goat cheese, honey and walnut baguette for me and chicken tandoori for Andy. We wanted a traditional french baguette to complete as many cliches as we could whilst in Paris. 

It took awhile to get through the French then British passport checks as my passports chip won’t open properly so I have to join a queue rather than go through electronically. The British passport officer was very kind explaining my problem. Bags went through the Xray machine but we had to fully empty pockets too. We didn’t sit long before boarding and yet again are travelling backwards. It was dark and the reflection from the lights on board restricted views anyway although at times I’d street or car lift. Oddly our train was due to leave at 18:02 according to our tickets but 17:59 according to the station board. Luckily they suggest you arrive an hour before departure to get through customs checks. 

A smooth journey. Andy got me a hot chocolate but it was a typical British liquidy one. I was tired so tried to sleep but didn’t really manage to. No wifi then suddenly my phone was saying change of time zone so we’d been through the tunnel without realising. 

30th Wednesday 

We’re Going on a Bear Hunt

Kieran suggested we walk to Kings Cross along the canal and we’d get to the camp through Victoria Park. He pointed out which direction we needed to go in and we found the canal. Initially we turned left as that felt logical but I soon panicked. We checked Google maps and a lady stopped and confirmed we needed to go the other way. What we hadn’t realised was the canal went round 2 sides of the park and we found ourselves back close to where we’d begun after an hour! 

At Hackney we came off the very busy canal side full of cyclists, runners and walkers and find a bakery. Filled with croissants, a chocolate almond croissant and 2 americanos. We sat in a bench to eat and realised it would take another hour to walk so we found the overground station and headed to Kings Cross via that and the Northern underground. 

To stow our bags at Kings Cross it would cost £10 for 3 hours and £15 for up to 24!  Andy found a Nisa shop that we could store them at for a lot less. 

We managed to catch a bus from across Euston Road all the way to Paddington to meet Pete but were later than planned. We were meant to meet at the Paddington shop by Pete had also mentioned about Meg the cast on plate form 8. We thought he was messing about but we bit there in time. See Hugh Bonnevilke getting on the Paddington themed train with some others. We took photos in front of the train before it left and asked if we could go in the VIP section for photos as well. 

Along to platform 1 for photos with the original book version of Paddington statue by Marcus Cornish which was made in 2000 and unveiled by Michael Bond. Next to it is the Paddington Bear Book Bench which was part of the National Literacy Trust’s Books About Town trail in London. Designed by artist Michelle Heron in 2015 the Paddington Book Bench formed one of 50 benches shaped like an open book, forming a sculpture trail organised by Wild in Art.

Inside the Paddington shop was a bench with Paddington and his suitcase with an orange tree next to it. We sat on the bench got photos. Pete had hoped to go into the Paddington themed cafe but it’s shut down. 

https://www.thisispaddington.com/article/take-the-pawprint-trail-around-paddington

We left the station to head in search of the Paddington  Paw Print trail at Norfolk Square Gardens. Pete was worried as Bear no 3 Ping Pong, Ponies and Peter Pan goes into hibernation in the Hilton hotel in winter but he was there to be seen. He was surrounded by photographers statues. 

Back to Paddington Station to see the train where the engines were named Paddington and Michael Bond. Pete had been delighted to have realised the train would be coming in whilst we were there. 

Near the station was the canal and under a bridge we found Bear no 1, Canalside views and London zoo. He’s all blue, soft and fury. Behind him was a digital display to do with Alan Turing, Message from the Unseen World’, words by a local poet as though Turing was speaking himself but the wires gnash up randomly. 

Along from here is the Merchant Square Footbridge also known as the fan bridge. It was open when we arrived but we didn’t really appreciate it as Andy spotted Bear No 2. Boating, Bears and Bridges inside The Social Impact coffee shop. The Bear is brown and looks like he’s made room bricks. I was keen to sit for awhile so Andy and I had coffees. The water maze didn’t seem to be functioning as we walked to the Fan bridge which was now down. You could see how it was spilt into 4 narrow strips that’s opened up like a fan but then came back together as a solid bridge when down. 

In nearby St Mary’s Terrace stands steel statues of Alan Turing, Mary Seacole and Michael Bond holding Paddington. Very peculiarly but all on Pete’s carefully researched tour. 

I’d suggested a Paddington tour as I knew there were lots of new statues as part of the Paddington Bear Statue trail with the release of release of ‘Paddington in Peru’ coming soon. So I had expected to go to Connaught Village to see our first new statue as he sat on a bench. A few people were there and took photos of us. 2 security guards came by as checking on him is part of their job. Pete chatted a little to them as they seemed amused by our adventures. 

On to Hyde Park to see 2 hugging bears at a drinking water fountain. Not Peruvian Bears but very cute. We found a bench to sit on a Pete had brought bread rolls and marmalade for sandwiches. 

On to the Portobello Road. Pete said as a child he’d go there every weekend with his dad shopping. We walked past Gruber’s antique shop without realising even though there was a statue plus a board with Paddington on but Pete realised. We didn’t go in as it was tiny. 

It was a bit of a walk to the Westfield Shopping Centre but we found Paddington sat on his own tucking into his marmalade sandwich. Inside the shopping centre I’d spotted an ice cream place. We’d past a couple of others but not a new dairy. Badiani was my goal. Toffee apple crumble was very sweet and tasty. Could really taste the apple plus had chunks of it too. Almost had a custardy taste and texture to it. Lovely. Pete convinced me to get a medium ice cream and a 2nd scoop as it was only £1 more. The dark chocolate won’t go on the list but was amazing. 

We could the train to Chalk Farm as Pete thought the sunset on Primrose Hill would be the perfect end to the day. What he didn’t say was that we’d walk down Chalcot Crescent which is 32 Windsor Gardens. A lady walking by pointed to number 30 which was the original outside filming for the Brown’s residence but said they were using a different house for the next film. 

Up Primrose Hill with a few other people for lovely views over London to the south and the sky slowly glowing with the sunsetting behind the clouds and trees to the west. We didn’t stay long as we knew we needed to get the tube to Euston to pick up our bags. We had plenty of time to buy food for the journey plus fill our water bottles. What a day! Can’t believe how much we crammed in. 

Spain September and October 2025

Sunday 21st September 25. Filey to Plymouth 6.5 hours of driving. Ferry to Spain.

We finished the Hardmoors at about 1pm. Andy was happy to start driving us to Plymouth after we’d had a shower and something to eat. We stopped for a couple of 80 minute sleeps in service stations before arriving in time for ice cream. We reached the ferry port quite early for our 16:45 departure. We thought we could park up and go shopping but joined the queue for passport check, where they gave us our cabin card, and weren’t then able to leave. Luckily we didn’t really need to shop as we had some supplies with us and knew there’d be food options on the boat. We waited to go through customs check. The car in front was thoroughly checked but they only asked us to make sure our gas bottle was switched off. We were parked near the front of the vehicle deck and told to use A3 stairs to access the passenger levels. Luckily we came up & out near our cabin. A cute little en-suite room with the fold-down top bunk in the ceiling. Andy went for a wander. I needed to sleep so climbed up and lay down. My legs were still throbbing and my right wrist was very painful. I’d not fallen yesterday at all so wondered if it was from holding onto fence posts!

I ate some food and had a drink a couple of hours later and we both settled down to sleep around 9pm. The forecast was for a rocky journey but it was actually very smooth. Hardly any rocking and we could just hear the occasional car alarm from the floor beneath. 

Monday 22nd September. Over the sea to Spain, Santander to Tordesillas. 3.5 hours drive. 272km. 

I woke a few times but didn’t stir until 9am. We’d borrowed a little travel kettle so had our own coffee and breakfast. I showered and after 16 hours aboard I finally left the cabin! We went to the very top deck to walk around outside. Dark skies behind and not much blue ahead. Waves crashed around the boat but nothing dramatic. We settled in one of the cafes and bought coffee, bread rolls with honey and a danish pastry. We both logged onto WiFi as you get 90 minutes free but you can’t access many sites such as Dropbox. We could use WhatsApp but email and Facebook were slow. Andy made us coffee and brought more food to eat from our cabin. 

My feet were starting to swell again so I went for a lie down but did a tour of the boat first, to get the blood flowing. 

At 14:45 we were asked to vacate the cabins. We were now in Spanish time and packed up & headed to the van. Andy had a quick look to see where the stickers for our headlights need to go for driving on the other side of the road. 

It didn’t take long to disembark and get through customs. Andy was driving and liked being close to the curb for judging distances. 

We set off on our 900 mile journey to Vélez de Benaudalla, Andalusia. Andy had booked a campsite in Tordesillas just 3.5 hours away. Once we’d parked up and sorted the van we walked up over the bridge to the historic town. Ice cream was my initial goal, success! Then we walked around to explore a little to the convent and along the cobbled streets. We thought about heading along the river for a walk but I needed food so it was back to the main square. Bar Restaurante Nuestro Sitio had a couple of vegetarian options ‘Pastel de verduras’ and ‘Esparragos Trigueros con Salsa de Boletus’.  Very nice and just enough. I sat under a stuffed bull’s head. Very strange. It was a short walk back to the van to sleep. 

Tuesday 23rd September Tordesillas to Vélez de Benaudalla. south 648km

We got bread and little cakes from a bakery after leaving the campsite, shortly after 8am. Neither of us slept well due to restless legs. 

Andy drove us south sometimes over lots of high bridges and through tunnels but mostly across flat land. The Spanish plains he called them. 

We stopped in Manzanares for ice cream and bought some lunch bits. We parked, walked about and realised weren’t 100% sure where the van was! We found it again without too much trouble though. I struggled to stay awake but couldn’t sleep either as my feet were swelling and my right foot was really painful. It took another 3 hours to get to the Karl & Hari’s house (4:50pm) where the Steele’s had already arrived. 

Lots of lovely food was spread on the table on the balcony, so we nibbled and chatted. Then we unpacked our stuff finding places to dry soggy race bits. Tea was a barbecue with a veggie wellington for me. I was shattered so when the others went for a walk to the castle I went to bed at 9pm. Andy wasn’t that far behind me. 

Wednesday 24th September 25. Lazy day. River walk. 

Hot, unsettled night but my feet felt much better when I woke. Andy brought up my coffee after I’d done my Wordle, as usual. The others had breakfasted when I finally managed to get up. Karl took Shirley and Jon on a walk across the valley. We opted for the river walk hoping for shade as well as flat. They’ve added signs along the path to show how far the walk goes and it looks like you can go all the way to the sea but otherwise it didn’t look any different to us. We walked to the road bridge and turned back crossing the river on a new footbridge at the ‘beach’ and then missed the turn so walked along the road for a bit before going back. Back to town but the ice cream shop was shut, so we headed back to base for ‘coke floats’ relaxing on the upper balcony. 

When the others returned we had drinks and cakes. A bit a sun relaxation before more food and chat. Lovely way to get the recovery in progress. 

Thursday 25th September 25. Castle to castle. Velez de Benaudalla to Salobreña.

The others were going to The Alhambra in Granada. We decided to walk to the coast as Andy had spotted Castillo de Salobreña. I’d spotted the river side walk yesterday had signs saying it was 16km to Salobreña along the river Guadalfeo. Karl and Hari advised that sections that might be closed as there’s a lot of work being done on the riverside adding pipes but thought we could manage it by criss-crossing the river. 

Andy worked out a route and it went really well just a few sections where the path disappeared or we were walking on a very dusty tracks over our shoes at times! We were never far from the main road and knew the journey from bus rides through the deep gorge. Steep cliffs above us. A wide nearly dry river valley in places that opened to a lush flowing river as we approached the town where avocados grew with other fruits. Under the main coastal road and we could see the castle ahead on a hill surrounded by whitewashed houses. 

We climbed up along steep streets to the castle and views of the Mediterranean. As with most things the castle shut at 1 for siesta! We’d been past the bus station and knew we either needed to head for a bus now or wait 3 hours. The app didn’t show the buses we wanted but I could book for us to get to Motril then another ticket onto VdB. Andy bought bottles of Fanta. 

The bus from Motril was a local bus and took us on a side road winding up above the main gorge but not on the valley bottom road so we had different views. 

Wonderful adventure but we didn’t find an ice cream shop!

We showered stretched and read until the others came back. More lovely food and chat in the lower balcony. 

Friday 26th. Exploring the whitewashed villages. 

Gorgeous day with Shirley & Jon exploring the whitewashed villages of Las Alpujarras beneath the Sierra Nevada. A drive through Lanjarón with all its fountains and on to Soportijar ‘the village of the witches’. At every turn there’s something related to witchcraft from cauldrons for bins to paintings and sculptures. We’d seen the Dragon Fountain and stilted house of Baba Yaga on our last visit but not the Evil Serpent or the Witches Fountain and stunning.

We had coffee and discovered a fountain beneath us with a lady lactating the fountain water!

We missed loads of surprises I’m sure but onwards through the weaving roads to Pampaneira. We parked here and walked up the dusty track via Bubión to Capileira. 2.5 miles and 423m of climb! Wonderful views. Lunch at Restaurante el Asador and back to Chocolate Abuela ili in Pampaneira where we all got ice creams, luckily a new one for me. 

Back on the car and a beautiful winding drive to Trevelez the highest village in the area with steep sides from the road. We had a short walk to climb to the viewpoint Mirador “Era El Fuerte” then drove along another winding route to base. So much to see, just wonderful. 

Good food at Mesón Nacimiento in the village to end the perfect day.

Saturday 27th. Beach day Playa Granada

Long lazy breakfast, beach by 11:30. Plenty of chairs or loungers. Andy, Karl and Hari went straight in the water. I read and relaxed. Karl and Hari went for food. We headed for ice cream 5ish. Back for cocktails on the top balcony before food and chat. 

Sunday 28th September. Rio Chillar circuit with Hari, Karl and Andy.  10.5 miles, 683 m of climb, 5 hours 24.  

Shirley and Jon headed to Malaga as they were due to fly home that evening. 

We drove to Nerja to show Hari and Karl the Rio Chillar circuit that we’d done last time we were here. We parked by the entrance and followed others ignoring the closed signs. 

A mile or so of walking along the dry stony riverbed then we hit the crystal clear water of the Rio Chillar. Lovely and cool to walk in as we followed the gorge as it narrowed through high cliffs or widened out with rich vegetation. High above us the blue skies started to turn a little grey but we loved the adventure within the gorge. Lots of butterflies, dragonflies and a deer or two. At the far end there’s a sluice gate, we climbed above this and onto the irrigation channel which we followed before climbing high on to the ridge line with great views of the sea. It was a steep decent back to the car. Ice creams in Nerja and pizza for tea. Just so lovely. 

Monday 29th September 25. North to Zuheros. 144 km. I hour 40 and onto Córdoba 69km 1 hour. Rainy day

Time to leave Vélez and start exploring Spain as we meandered north. We’d made a rough plan of a route that would take us to some beautiful places and Roman sites.

It was raining heavily when we got up. A lazy breakfast and elevenses rolled into one until the clouds started to clear and we set off.

Long empty rolling roads over high bridges with olive silvery green groves as far as the eye can see for nearly the full 90 miles. We drove past Fortaleza de la Mota which looked pretty impressive but clouds hid the mountains beyond. Then on passing other castles perched on high outcrops, there’s so much to see here! We parked under the 9th century Muslim castle palace of Zuheros. 

A quick walk round the castle. Then using various apps we found then followed The Olive Oil Greenway (Vía Verde del Aceite), the old railway line that transported olive oil to the coast through the heart of the Subbética Natural Park. A 3 mile flat walk to Doña Mencía on the old tarmac track through the olive groves, grey skies but sunshine at times and no rain.  Through the streets and over to Doña Mencía castle stopping for coffee in Bar Lama in one of the squares. The ruined castle was surrounded by houses and not high up on a cliff top at all. We walked round the outside as it was shut and then headed back to Zuheros via a lower dusty route through the olive groves. The map on our watches had tiny green dots on showing the olive groves, very cute. 

A quick stop in Baena for ice cream and onto Córdoba with fewer olives growing beside the highway. We found a place to park for overnight that’s meant to be free but a guy asked for 10 euros. We paid 5 and he led us across the road to a more secluded spot. We’d read this would happen. We walked over the Roman Bridge into Córdoba. It’s been reconstructed a few times but was first built here in the 1st century BCE. We walked round and through the Moorish cathedral before tea in Pasillo Oriental. Tasty Egyptian food – Taboulleh and mixed veggie platter. Good to explore the city as night started to fall and the old town was lit up.

Tuesday 30th September. Córdoba, Ronda and Seville

A good sleep in the van and up at 8am. Breakfast of coffee, donuts and dates. We walked up to the Córdoba Archaeological Museum. Free entry. During renovations of the palace of the Páez de Castillejo family the Roman theatre of Cordova was found. This is now the lower level of the museum. The other floors show the history of the city. Very interesting.

We walked a few streets over to the Templo Romano de Córdoba. I love walking along the streets looking in doorways with interesting courtyards or ruins of old city. The streets near here are wider as we moved away from the historic centre. Lots of modern shops but also pretty courtyards with trees as shade, quite often lime trees. 

Coffee stop at Gris’ close to the Roman walls. Massive croissant for me, fried eggs and tomato for Andy. A warmer day with sunshine. We followed the Roman wall with a pretty flower lined water course and the back over the Roman bridge to our van. Really enjoyed Córdoba, I’m sure there a lot more to see but we’d covered a lot of ground. 

Onto Ronda, two hours away for views of the stunning El Tajo de Ronda. Andy found a walking route that took us down round the big rim of the bowl beneath the cliffs of Ronda. I was excited to explore the first set of steps we came to but they were steps to nowhere. We walked close to the rim at times with no fences and there were rough mountain bike tracks that made me nervous. It was hard enough looking over the edge walking but cycling here on the rocky track! The jewel of the hike was the Tajo bridge spanning the high gorge with a waterfall beneath. We had to walk for ages before we saw it tucked in. Stunning. Then a steep climb up to the side to the other half of the town. Such a precarious situation to have a town built on such a high cliff separated by the deep gorge. Below were walkways but we’d heard that that adventure was shut. From the bridge itself we could see down into the gorge and another bridge further down with paths leading down to it. We bought ice creams and headed there. Wonderful day, just a couple of drops of rain and threatening clouds but the sun came out at the end. 

We keep crossing hiking paths to Santiago. I always think there’s just the northern route but it seems not, there also one from Almuñécar near Nerja.

It was a 1 hour 45 drive to Seville. We were intending to park up near a small harbour, Puerto Gelves, just outside of the city but that was full. We managed to find a nice spot on the roadside then took the bus to the city centre. We walked along the river before visiting the ornate Plaza de España and into the gardens of the Royal Alcázar palace. This had Roman walls along two stretches. We then headed to the old town area of Santa Cruz for tea. Narrow streets and restaurants at every tiny square. Our initial choice had a queue but Andy found Malquerer restaurant and we had tapas with a salad. Just lovely.

It was getting late and we had a 30 minute wait for the next bus so got a taxi. Our parking spot by the main road but wasn’t too bad until the 6am traffic started. 

Wednesday 1st October. Seville, Itálica and Mérida

Breakfast in the van then we drove into town, parked underground and walked along the river next to the Torre del Oro. Into town and the unusual Setas de Sevilla, The Mushrooms. A wooden structure above the square with walkways and viewing towers. We didn’t go up but headed down to the Antiquarium. This subterranean archaeological museum features Roman house ruins, amazing mosaics and pottery. A large area to walk around in but we’d been spoilt in Barcelona with a larger museum. I enjoyed seeing the pictures of the excavations. 

We then wandered through the streets until we got to the square at the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See. Long queues to get in and a lot of people just wandering around. We found ice cream near here and tried to head to the Royal Alcázar park but kept finding dead end alleys or were forced to go on the wrong direction. 

Back to the van and a 15 minute drive to the Archaeological site of Itálica. This was our main reason for coming to Seville. It’s an expansive, well-preserved, ancient Roman city featuring intricate mosaics, temple ruins and a huge amphitheatre. Wonderful to walk around especially within the amphitheatre. So hard to picture how massively high it would have been but it’s still pretty impressive and it was only 1 euro 50 each! Within the town of Santiponce next to the site are the ruins of the Roman theatre. They’re closed but we could get some good views into them. Looks like they’ve built up the lower seating rows and stage for modern performances. 

Onwards north. 1 hour 45 drive to Mérida. Very warm at 27 degrees! This is a much smaller city. We parked at one place over the river but it felt a bit isolated & remote so then moved to a shadier spot, a short stroll from the old town. There’s an island in the river just by us that’s used for sport & recreation so we walked along there and back over to the ‘mainland’ to get to the 792m long Roman bridge across the wide river. Lots of arches and it was open to traffic until a few years ago. We walked across and back then round to the amazing Aqueduct of Miracles. Called this as they’re surprised so much is still standing of this 1st century CE structure, although much of the water channel across the top is missing. It was beautiful just a little disappointing that a stage and various barriers slightly ruined the view. We walked over the Roman bridge and round it. It seemed so high with no high land around us. 

Andy found us a vegetarian restaurant for tea, Shangri-La el Vegetariano. Amazing tasty food, spoilt for choice so we asked the waiter to suggest his favourites and he didn’t disappoint. Tina Salad, Gratin nachos with guacamole and spicy tomato, Japanese vegetable gyozas accompanied by garlic and seeds cream, soy sauce and seaweed false caviar and Seitan fricandó with mushrooms and for pudding. Green tomatoes cake and cherries.

Walking back it was lovely to see the Temple of Diana and Roman bridge lit up. We’d avoided seeing much else in the city wanting to explore it tomorrow with a guided tour.

Thursday 2nd September 25. Mérida, Cáceres and Toledo. 

We’d paid for a tour of the historic city with Lucia so met her and the small group at the Roman theatre. 

Cas and Katherine – USA, Mike and Rita – Kent,

Merida was a city for retired soldiers after 25 years of service. 

Roman House with baths – A massive villa on the edge of town. We could see hills in the distance and a channel bringing in water to the house. Water comes initially overground from the mountains 12 km away then via a subterranean aqueduct under the city. Intricate arches to hold a pool as they heated the water beneath for the first of three baths within the house – very hot, tepid and cold. Mosaics on the floors and painting on the wall. Massive house that they are still working on uncovering. They found graves with bodies in but no grave stones so no details of who lived here. 

The tour took us by a small aqueduct just 3 towers of the Roman Acueducto de San Lázaro. A modern house built right up to it and on the other side a stretch of lower newer, 16th century aqueduct. 

Roman Circus of Mérida: a massive well preserved circus which was used for chariot races. 490m long. Discovered in the 1930’s beneath a barley field. They think there is more beneath us and it could have been 2 m lower. We stood on a viewing platform but couldn’t really get a good view of the whole thing. 

Ice house, they collected snow from the mountains and compacted it to ice. It was needed to preserve food plus cold baths. 

Public baths with sauna with the three temperatures of baths. There would have also been massage rooms and library, a real public amenity. 

We walked past a hotel with glass floors and ruins beneath. Such a great way to conserve history. Then a stretch of Roman road next to the city street, they used reflective stones as cats eyes. 

The impressive Temple of Diana had the national police celebrating 200 years in the courtyard at the front. Diana protects infants – Augustus, the emperor that had it built, struggled to get a male heir. Much more recently a house was built within the temple using the columns as part of the house walls hence them still being here. Luckily most of the house has now been removed and damaged columns replaced. 

The forum nearby was just a few columns at the side of the street but still impressive. 

The next stop was really magnificent but we’d been spoilt by the amphitheatre at Itálica. Gladiatorial Amphitheatre and the Roman Theatre of Mérida: The walls of the amphitheatre were quite high with a lot of obvious restoration on the lower slopes, it held 10,000 less than Itálica. These were beneath corn fields until rediscovered in the 1920’s when the 7 tops of the seating area were identified peaking above the corn. In the theatre the columns and statues at the back of the stage were impressive. Seats leading down to the stage are covered in plastic ‘slabs’ to protect the originals beneath but keep the look of the seating. They still use it for concerts.

A quick walk through the Alcázar. 

Back in the van and north to Cáceres, 50 minutes. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was founded by the Romans, it retains widespread evidence of subsequent occupation by many different cultures. Its old town has a mix of cobbled medieval streets, fortified houses and palaces. Encircled by 12th-century Moorish walls, it also has around 30 towers, some occupied by nesting storks although we didn’t see any nests. Lovely to walk round. Andy said it felt like a film set and apparently some of Game of Thrones was filmed here. The Arco de la Estrella is angled on a slant to allow carriages up a ramp and through the Medieval stone arch. It has a Catholic shrine and ramparts overlooking the walled city. We stopped for drinks in the main 15th century market square. 

Onto Toledo, a 2 hour 20 drive through flat plains of dried grasses sometimes with trees. Intriguing looking walled towns or castles occasionally came into view. Stork nests dotted the road side! The hills of the Sierra de Gredos National Park to our north looked tempting for some hiking. We can’t do everything!  

We stayed in a campsite camping El Greco with great views of Toledo 

Friday 3rd October. Toledo to Cuenca

We drove up to Mirador del Valle with the hoards for gorgeous views over the city. The morning sun lit it up beautifully. Toledo is perched dramatically on an outcrop of rock with the river Tajo flowing round three sides of it giving it amazing natural defences. 

Into town, parked up and walked towards the river. Our walking route was blocked by a broken bridge but we climbed and slid down and across the dry stream. Up to the picturesque Alcantara Roman bridge. We’d seen birds flying around and they were settled nearby. We followed the path beneath the escarpment. We could see the occasional view point or section of wall but not much up to the city but it was lovely looking across the river, at the weirs and ruins of mills. You really got a sense of why the Visigoths made this their 6th century capital many years after the Romans had made it a city. Then the Muslims before the Christian’s took over. 

Round and under the 14th century San Martin’s Bridge with city walls alongside us. We then climbed up and away from the river to the side of town not defended by the river but with high walls providing protection, still there and in great condition. We could see over the flat lands beyond and further round the rest of the city. There are numerous gates into the city, we walked by Puerta del Cambrón and in through the huge Puerta de Bisagra. In front of us was the intricate Alminar De la Iglesia del arrabal. 

We climbed up into the old town. All brick buildings rather than whitewashed made it so different to where we’ve been and so did the sheer number of historic buildings. We wandered through the streets wide enough for cars, which we were not used to seeing in historic old towns and onto Plaza de Zocodover, the main square. Lots of people sitting in cafes. 

We queued to pay 12 euros each to go in the Cathedral Saint Mary of Toledo. Built on the base of a mosque, very catholic and excessive decoration. Amazing details though especially in the choir stalls with carvings of animals and battles. 

We walked to the Alcázar de Toledo, a more modern building, we didn’t go into the museum. Good views over the valley. Impressive building. 

A quick ice cream stop and onto The Bab al-Mardum Mosque – Cristo de la Luz Church.  The mosque was built in 999 CE then converted to a Christian church. Lovely with its simplicity. Small church with a lovely courtyard and views over the city and city walls.

We thought we should explore another religion seeing as we were looking round places of worship so headed across the city to the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca. Phones, hats and keys went through an Xray machine. We wondered if it was normal or the fallout from the murders in the synagogue on Manchester yesterday, although this is no longer a place of worship. Very simple but yet tastefully ornate too. A 12th century synagogue converted to church but in the same style as the mosque in a Mudéjar style typical of this area where Moorish and Christian influences blend. 

We walked back towards the car park stopping for empanadas on the way it was 4 pm and apart from a filled croissant and ice cream we’d not eaten since breakfast and walked just over 9 miles! Very tasty and cheesy. Shops nearby were giving tasters of marzipan and sugared almonds, lucky us. 

We noticed queues for escalators down the steep escapement. We followed the paths instead and walked by Tour de France 1959 winner statue, down to the walls enjoying randomly choosing streets before eventually arriving back at the van. 

Quick supermarket shop for breakfast then we headed east to Cuenca, 1 hour 45 away, as recommended by Janet. We found our camper van parking site but drove back to the main town for some tea. Next to the restaurant there were loads of little rally cars lined up and ready to race. It’s part of the Rallye TT Cuenca, 11km tonight and 400km tomorrow around the region. I’d spotted yellow signs with black arrows on as we’d headed back to town and hoped our roads weren’t going to be closed off. After watching a deep red sunset we headed back to our campsite and found a spot next to the river Júcar, beneath the historic old town.

Sunday 4th October. Cuenca – Chinchón – Segovia

Andy worked out a hike around old town Cuenca. As usual I was impatient and wanted to go straight up the steep cliff face of zig-zagging paths to get to the town but we walked along the valley bottom away from it. Great views of the unusual irregular rock formations. The sun was hitting the valley wall away from Cuenca. We were in the cool shade even as we turned and started the climb and route back towards the old town. We past some small pillars with crosses on and Andy noticed a bench carved into the bolder. 

Initially a narrow stoney path but we soon joined the paved zigzag path from the valley bottom up to the castle and on through the walls. We stopped for coffee, Andy asked for big americanos but we still got tiny coffees. We decided to follow the path beneath the old town on the other side and were soon on the sunny side. Another rocky path that turned into a concrete path with lights. I spotted some rough steps as we reached a gate through the walls. We climbed up and found a water course that went along the walls but also under the cliffs. We followed it a short distance but my lack of head for heights meant we didn’t go far. 

Down towards the valley bottom with the imposing old convent high on the cliffs across the valley. Above us houses clung to the edge of the escarpment and the hanging houses came into view. It’s really just their balconies hanging over the valley. Within the old town later we’d spot overhanging houses above the streets where the next floor up is wider that the street level floor plan. 

We crossed San Pablo Bridge, it didn’t feel safe to me swaying a little plus a few loose floor boards. Across the valley we followed the wide well used track twisting up within the trees to the viewpoint del Cerro del Socorro. You can see the statue on its tall plinth from miles around. Lovely views down to the old town especially the cathedral and hanging houses. A rough path took us down the hillside opposite the houses and back round to join in the original path we’d taken up. Mostly open with good views across but sometimes in the welcome shade of trees. Andy spotted dinosaurs in the distance I guess there’s a museum here. We could also see a very modern section of town in the far distance very grid like identical looking complexes. We’d hoped there might be a direct route down to the old Covent but we were happy to follow the path round as we knew there was a steep rock face between us and the main route below. We’d seen a few rock climbers on our way up and now there were loads of them. 

We crossed the wobbly bridge again and up to the hanging houses and to the square in front of the cathedral. It was full and noisy and looked like a recruitment drive for the police. Lots of them were walking round with guns looking threatening. We headed up a side street and at times there were good views across the valley then we’d be in passageways under buildings above. The buildings are mostly multistory meaning they are very high giving good shade below. We’d ended up near the castle again. Being hungry Andy found Taberna Albero as a place with vegetarian food back by the Cathedral. A lovely spot with tables in a quiet courtyard. Goats cheese salad for lunch, Andy had artichokes and garlic. 

Across from here was the Tower of Mangana which is the last part of the Muslim city that remains although it’s been modified a few times. From here we headed down the road then I spotted the path took us under the buildings through an arch way and steeply to the river. Within a few minutes we were back at the van for the night. 7.5 miles. 572 m of climb in 4 hours 45.  

Andy chose the town of Chinchón, an hour away, as a place to break up our journey past Madrid. It’s known for its medieval Plaza Mayor, circled by buildings with wooden balconies. The centre was really busy. There’s an annual book fair on this weekend which looked like there was going to be music playing but also the centre of the plaza was set up as a bull ring with high grandstands but the ornate balconies of the plaza soared above these. We bought some bread and headed on our way. 

1 hour 45 drive to Sergovia. Initially flat agricultural land then into the outskirts of Madrid. We spent ages driving under the city on a 4 lane ‘low way’. We headed up and over the Navacerrada Pass of the Guadarrama Mountains. Covered in trees and down to Sergovia. 

We drove through the centre and right up to the impressive aqueduct. It spans the whole valley and is intact having been restored many times. We found our camper van parking site next to the bullring and walked back to town. We soon found a tiny stretch of water channel. Across the main road was the start of a raised up channel that led to a filtration station before heading onto the arch ways. These grew higher above our heads then sharply turned a corner to start a double arched section across the full valley. Just so impressive. The plaza at the bottom was filled with a pro Palestine rally. We headed successfully for ice cream and continued through the streets to the Plaza Major. Lots of people were dressed in medieval costumes and it turns out this weekend they have a re-enactment event to commemorate the Proclamation of Isabella the Catholic as Queen of Castile in 1474. There were lots of market stalls but we realised we’d missed the procession. 

We continued past the grand cathedral and on to the impressive palace, Alcázar. It’s like a fairy tale castle perched on a high rock. The sun was starting to set. We walked down to a view point beneath it and round and up to another. Just lovely. Back down to the road where there were streets lights coming on as darkness fell. Back up to one of the main streets to the aqueduct again. We climbed the steps up to the Roman wall on the other side trying to get good view points. We’d also seen a statue of the devil that was meant to be a good place to stand but houses blocked the view until we are further down the road. Such a lovely city, full of surprises as all I known about there was the aqueduct. 

Back to the van for a very late tea. Such an amazing day!

Sunday 5th October 25.  Sergovia, Pedraza, Orbaneja del Castillo, Aguilar de Campoo, Fuente Dé Pico’s de Europa. 400km and 6 hours of driving 

Early start and a drive by the aqueduct with a hot air balloon flying above. Out and 45 minutes north to Pedraza. Low cloud in the valley as we drove. Cattle grazing around trees on rocky land.

Pedraza is a walled medieval village with castle and gorgeous cobbled streets. We parked outside and walked through the old walks via the town gate. We continued our walk round the southern side of the town and Andy spotted fresh walnuts dropped from a tree scattered on the street. We cracked and ate a few and collected some for later. The route took us next to the walls and beneath the balcony of an over hanging house up to a large car park by the castle. The plaza mayor was amazing with old columns holding up the balcony’s above that had lots of flowers in pots on. We stopped for coffee and soaked up the atmosphere. Just perfect. 

Orbaneja del Castillo our next spot 2.5 hours later was a total surprise. We entered the deep Erbo river gorge with its crazy karst landscape around us and drove a few miles before parking up just before the village. We walked to some very clear pools of water beneath waterfalls coming down from the village. The falls looked like a build up of limestone as if these have been made within a cave. We climbed the steep steps up to the village then walked from the village and up and over the escarpment with various views down over the village plus the jagged crown like protruding karst rocks above the village, so hard to explain. On the top it was quite different with trees dotted next to stones huts for miles and with scar that the village is in hidden. We’re really noticing the autumnal colours of the trees now. It was also a cooler day especially in the breeze but a hot sun when it appeared from the clouds. We had lunch in one of the taverns. Frittata for me, various meat tapas for Andy. We had a quick look in the electric lit caves and were surprised how far back we could go following the sound of rushing water. 

Another 2 hours to Aguilar de Campoo hoping to find ice cream as so far everywhere was shut, it’s Sunday! We could see the ruin of a castle high on the cliffs as we parked. It’s a very modern town but the main square had the traditional colonnades and balconies above. We walked up to the ruin which was lovely. No ice cream though.

We drove on and up into the Palentina national park with gorgeous mountains views towards the Picos de Europa our destination for the night. We went through Potes and the name rang a bell as I realised I’d been hiking here 23 years ago with my parents. Our campsite was just beyond the end of the road at Fuente Dé. The roads are narrower here even when they have the central white line but as you approach any settlement there’s a flashing orange light and just beyond red lights which start to flash orange as you approach. It’s all to make you slow down which seems sensible. 

I knew I’d got a cable car up the mountain from Fuente Dé with my parents as soon as I saw where we were. It’s a lovely quirky campsite with the office at the entrance and a dog guarding it. The guy checked us in and we order bread for the morning, the restaurant here is shut. Only a few slots but quite a few people here. 

We had to drive back to Espinama for food as the options looked limited at the two hotels nearby. Everywhere seemed shut. The restaurant at the hotel Remoña was open but we had to wait 30 minutes until 8pm and then another 40 minutes before food arrived. Goats cheese salad for me, mushrooms in a garlic sauce for Andy. 

Back to the campsite and horses ran across the dirt road in front of us! I ended up talking German to some other campers to find out if the showers were hot, they were. Another amazing adventurous day. We’d been listening to the Project Hail Mary audiobook and sadly finished it today. 

Monday 6th October 25. Cable car up from Fuente Dé, 9 mile walk back. Drive to Santander ferry to Plymouth, departure 7pm

Good sleep listening to cow bells jingling all night. The sun hit the mountains above us and slid down to the chalet above our campsite. We packed up ready for the ferry trip later and Andy made sandwiches from the fresh bread. 

At 9:45 we drove down to the cable car station and queued to go up the mountain. Most people had a lot of layers on as it was cool in the shade but it looked warm in the sunshine at the top and it was.  

In 4 minutes we went from 1,090m to 1,850m with great views of the grey limestone mountains surrounding us. Andy had downloaded a route for us to follow curving round to the east. It was a good 4×4 track with easy to follow signs. A short climb to the col then sweeping views on the other side down to chalet real that was closed and another chalet that they were closing up for the winter. 

Lots of sheep with dogs following them plus cattle. Quite a few 4×4’s came by and the cattle ran after them, it seemed to be food time. The good track swept round until Portilla del Boquejón, a gate and cattle grid. Just past here we climbed a wooden bridge onto a narrow rough rocky track which descended steeply at times but often had zigzags or steps. We’d not been sure how long the hike would take but knew sections like this would slow us. The scenery changed from the grey rock to tree covered hills. It wasn’t long before we were on a better track within the trees with a floor of golden autumn leaves. At 12:30 I suggested we have lunch as we’d turned a corner and could see the mountains above Fuente Dé again. Beside us green pastures opened up so we sat in the sun to eat. All we could hear was bird song and cow bells jingling no roads or other signs of life. 

It wasn’t long before we could see the cable car above us and Fuente Dé across from us. 

It was a 2 hour drive to Santander we stopped at a supermarket for supplies y and later for an ice cream. I was delighted to find somewhere. It was a warm day so I was grateful and they were massive delicious portions. 

Into the ferry port. Passports checked to give us the correct room keycards and a quick visual customs check of the van before a wait to go through a proper passport check. We’d been advised there was an issue with the ramos so boarding was slower. We had a good walk around the boat and then grabbed some of our food and drinks and sat in the cafe area at the front of as we departed a little late but as the sun set. There was the occasional boom as we hit a big wave and we swayed gently across the sea. 

Andy was tired so we headed to the cabin not long after 8pm to read and relax. 

Tuesday 7th October 25. Ferry to Plymouth, Creedy 

A good though warm sleep with very little rocking. Just the occasional car alarm to remind us where we were. Breakfast and coffee in the cabin before another walk around the deck. A guy with a Horsforth Harriers ABC hat on recognised us. He’d seen dolphins earlier and there’s a good chance of seeing whales. We had an explore then settled with coffee near the front of the boat and used our free minutes of WiFi. We’d booked to see The Ballard of Wallis Island at the small in board cinema. We’d seen it before and loved and thoroughly enjoyed it again. 

We grabbed our lunch and sat at the front again this time getting seats right at the front windows. We got good views of several pods of dolphins dancing about in front of the boat. We docked on time.

An ice cream stop in Plymouth and on to uncle Bob’s house and my first mince pie of the year!

Wednesday 8th October

Washing, zoom with solicitor re mortgage, cruse. cleaning the van, Andy jobs and walk to town to shop. 

Friday 10th October

2,300 miles later and we’re home. An amazing adventure with a couple of days seeing family plus a night in Stratford on Avon to see an outstanding performance of Cyrano de Bergerac at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. Managed a few more ice creams. And relax and start planning the next big adventure.

Thank

Question 

Fist my bump

https://thenewtinsomerset.com/plan-your-visit

190. Hardmoors 60. Saturday 20th September 25

Hardmoors 60, 63.72 miles, 3.648 m of climb, 16:53:24. 60th of 89 finishers. 11th of 17 lady, 4th over 50. 120th ultra.

One long litter pick in the driving rain. Or Fuelled by pizza! Or The scary one!

Can’t decide what the best title for this year’s Hardmoors 60 should be. The massive garlic, Stilton and chilli garlic bread starter plus vegetarian pizza of equal size was the perfect carb loading Friday evening and veggie pizza at Ravenscar checkpoint! Wonderful. 

There was the usual pre race facebook natter about clothing and shoe choice. I chipped in that I’d always take waterproof trousers even though it wasn’t on the mandatory kit list. The chat got me thinking maybe I’d need better grip on my shoes. Someone commented ‘ I don’t think it’ll get wet enough to churn the mud but some areas might get a slick layer.’ How wrong were they!! The Tees link path up the High Cliff Nab is usually a quagmire but it was fine. A few people were slipping around here and I dread to think how they coped later. 

We had waterproof tops on from the start. I added waterproof trousers at Sandsend, my shorts were soaked but it kept me warm. The rain hardly eased but the wind speed slowly increased all day. I really felt for the marshals at each of the checkpoints and think it was harder for them than running as I’m sure they’d get cold. 

We kept to a steady pace all day although we were a little quicker than 15 minute miles initially. Andy as usual made split sheets and added our times from 2019 to compare. It works for us not to set off too quickly. I was surprised that after the only indoor checkpoint at Ravenscar, 42 miles in, I was still able to set a good pace but then it is mostly flat or downhill to Hayburn Wyke Wood with the tailwind easing the pace. I was also full of pizza and cake plus had added more warm layers. However we knew we were behind time when we needed our head torches at Hayburn Wyke. I still kept pushing on just so keen to get to the finish. 

Andy as usual chatted to a few people. A lady with ME who sadly didn’t finish. Another who had dropped out last year but was determined to get to Filey where her mother’s ashes are scattered she had rose petals to scatter this time. We were delighted she made it. We also got the usual comments at kisses gates. 

I just kept eating. At least a bar every hour plus extras from the checkpoints. Andy was eating better this time as it wasn’t as hot as the Hardwolds 40. We both also noticed how much litter was blowing around so picked up what we could that wasn’t too muddy or sticky. 

I’ve never run the esplanade through Scarborough before, it’s usually a fast paced walk or run a little, walk a bit plus we always stop for chips but not today! The flat concrete surface is too much but I ran it today with the wind behind us pushing us along. Andy had mentioned he had a spare merino wool top in his bag. It was soaking wet but I was anxious I might get cold going up the next cliff tops so I did my best superperson impression and changed in a phone box. I just added the wet top on top of my already wet kit beneath my waterproof jacket. It did the trick. Overall I’m pretty pleased with my choice of clothes. Layers and accepting not even the best waterproof jacket will keep you dry in those conditions but think I needed better shoe grip. 

The route through Scarborough was different taking us up the road before the Spa. My watch GPS had turned to night mode so the route and roads were both white. Luckily a marshal pointed us up the path.  Mel and partner caught us and knew where to head. We’d been on the esplanade before so followed this to the checkpoint and out towards Clayton Bay. We hoped the section down the steps might have been removed but it hadn’t. It was at least sheltered. Andy’s first torch had stopped working quite quickly and now his second failed too. Luckily I had spare batteries so he changed those whilst we were sheltered. From here we were out into the open and the battle of the final cliff tops to Filey. Luckily the wind was blowing us away from the cliff edges but into a barbed wire fence. I mostly could keep moving forward but occasionally was pushed towards the fence or grabbed a fence post just to stay up right. My feet slipping on the muddy trail. Andy fell over at one point but was quickly up and moving again. It was hard work and a little scary. I was so relieved to see Filey Brigg but very confused as I could see a light and I thought there might be a marshal there but we didn’t seem to be getting closer, turned out it was the runners in front of us. 

Finally we were on the road heading up to the finish hall. Andy ‘sprinted’ ahead as usual but waited for me.   63.72 miles, 3.648 m of climb, 16:53:24. 60th of 89 finishers. Just over half who started finished which is a lot of dropouts for a Hardmoors race. Nearly a quarter of those entered didn’t turn up. A hot shower, food, new T-shirt and medal and I was a happy girl. It was an amazing experience and although scary at times because we were being blown away from the edges I was never really concerned certainly not enough to think the race should be stopped. 

Derbyshire August 20th to 26th 2025

Travelled down yesterday to Middleton near Matlock for a few days with my parents visiting my Dad and his sister Dorothy’s old haunts in the Peak District. 

Lunch stop at Cannon Hall Country Park The Lucky Pup cafe and of course ice cream at Nonna Mia Gelato. 

Tea at The Rising Sun with Jan and Dave. 

Friday 21st August. 

Today we explored Dovedale and its stepping stones. Only Dorothy was brave enough to step onto the stones. 

Andy took us on a magical mystery tour along the narrow roads to enjoy the views of Derbyshire. Late elevenses at  
Wetton Mill cafe and over the tops to Matlock. 

An evening of planning and jigsaws. 

Lovely to hear the stories of their adventures. 

Saturday 22nd August

Nice surprise to see Sam, Tony and Paul at Black Rocks parkrun this morning. My fastest time since October 22.

We then met up with Cherry, Dorothy’s granddaughter at her shop The Lost Cauldron in Matlock for all things magical. Her brother Ben and his wife Ashley came with their baby. Matlock was heaving with bank holiday crowds so we went back to Cherrys house and watched the steam trains that pass regularly at the end of her garden. 

Lunch at Cafe Massarella in  Rowsley where they had a new ice cream flavour, so why not!

Andy took us on a tour of the countryside up Curbar Edge for wonderful views across the National Park. Dorothy enjoyed telling us of their walks along the tops there. 

It’s Well Dressing season in Derbyshire so Andy took us on a tour. Eyam had 3. TownHead Well and 2 at TownEnd one being made by children. We just missed the opening ceremony in Eyam. On to Foolow and Wormhill. At Wormhill the children had chosen Paddington complete with marmalade sandwiches so I was delighted. 

More jigsawing and making plans for tomorrow’s adventures. 

https://visitpeakdistrict.com/events/category/well-dressings#:~:text=If%20you’re%20lucky%20enough,our%20fascinating%20towns%20and%20villages.

Sunday 24th August 

Leisurely breakfast then walk up to Arbor Low Stone Circle. Described as the Stonehenge of the Midlands and in its day I’m sure it was. Massive stones but all laid down and deteriorating. Dad and I walked along the perimeter henge to look down on the stones. Pretty impressive. Great views around us. We didn’t go to the burial mound but back to the car and on to Pomery Farm for ice cream. 

Sunday lunch at the Hope & Anchor in Wirksworth before a lazy afternoon back at the Airbnb. Andy and I did a short walk eating loads of juicy blackberries. Lovely warm sunny day. 

Monday 25th, bank holiday

Morning run up and round the hill above our house. Great path to follow just couldn’t always see it for the head height bracken. Back via the High Peak trail to Middle Top. 

Visited Mark and Eva in Dore for morning coffee. 

Lunch at the Cow Shed cafe. 

On to Chesterfield to visit old haunts. We drove past the Crooked Spire (Chesterfield Parish Church, St Mary and All Saints) and past Queens Park. Out to Brampton the area Dorothy and my Dad grew up in. Initially number 6 they moved from Dinnington when he was about 6 months old. Then 26 Somersall Park Rd, his parents where there a long time as Dorothy moved back in with David and Jan when Jerry went to train to be a vicar. A stroll round Somersall park. We didn’t quite make it to Green Cheese pond but Dorothy knew where everything was. Wonderful memories being shared. 

Back to base for a snooze before our final holiday ice cream together. 

Tuesday 26th

Jan and Dave collected Dorothy at 10. We bought sandwiches from the coop then visited Christine at The Callywhite home. She very very happy and chatty and sang quite a bit. 

Onto John and Chris w for coffee and lunch before heading home. 

Cumbrae 8th to 12th August 2025

Friday 8th August. 

Return to the Isle of Cumbrae for a reunion. 

Lived here between 1975 and 1978. Visited with the girls in May 91 and Andy July 2014. 

Now back with my Mum and Dad. Quick look at Union Street at the house we lived in in Largs before we moved to Cumbrae. 

Stroll along the sea front to the crocodile rock. 

Live music outside our apartment at 9:30pm!!

Saturday 9th August

Started the day with a bus then ferry ride to Largs to do the Largs Prom parkrun. Due to my painful left foot I’d signed up as park walker. The tail walker and I couldn’t keep up with the slowest runners! A 3 lap, flat course along the prom and the winner caught me at the end of my first lap!! I did a pretty speedy 5k in 44 minutes 11, very pleased. 

Ice cream from world famous Nardini, Largs before heading back to Millport. 

Coffee at the Dancing Midge cafe with Laura Denman. 

Mac and cheese at Frasers Bar. 

Then the reunion at the Cathedral meeting lots of old friends and piecing together our histories. 

Sunday 10th

Eucharist Service at the Catherdral with Mum and Dad. 

I walked over the island in the sunshine to Fintry Bay. They have Kelly’s Cornish ice cream in the cafe there rather than a Scottish brand, very disappointing. 

Enjoyed climbing over the rocks along the beach with a short section by the road eating blackberries. Lots of cyclists going the round the island. 

Evening with the community for tea and a ceilidh. 

Monday 11th

My first visit to Wee Cumbrae the small island across from Cumbrae. Exciting bumpy ride across. The tide was out so I could explore the 13th century Old Castle Keep. It’s in great condition with 2 floors before the roof top views of the mainland and island. 

We followed the path over the top with the old lighthouse, built in 1757, perched on the highest point. Not very accessible due to the brambles but very tasty blackberries. The main path was perfectly managed. 

Down to the Cumbrea Lighthouse which started operation in 1793 and has been modernised over the years but the buildings are in ruin. I believe one of the buildings is an automated light still. 

Back over the tops and along another path to the ruins of a chapel but there was little to see of it except wonderful views around us and across to Millport. 

I took a side path called Cherry Tree walk which was lovely but ended at a bench so I had my picnic and headed back. 

There was another path along the shore line to get closer to seal island which was covered with lots of lazy looking seals. 

Back on the mainland with my parents we went back to the Cathedral with an ice cream stop of course. 

At the Cathedral we learnt about the plans for its development through the Aspires Trust and had a look round North College where we used to live. 

Tea at the Newton. Burger for Dad and Mac’n’cheese for Mum and I. Lovely to catch up people. 

Tuesday 12th

A lovely sunny day so we drove round the island taking in the views across the Rothesay Sound. We stopped for elevenses at Fintry Bay cafe where Linda and Carol joined us and Staffan and Charlotte arrived just as we left. All cycling round the island. 

We drove up to the trig point for wonderful views across to Arran, Bute and Kintyre. 

I dropped my parents off to have lunch as Conway, Martha and Jackie wanted a ride to the trig point and we also went round the island. As I dropped them I spotted Eleanor and Roger so took them up too. 

Having not walked much today I took a walk up to the trig knowing I could stop and admire the views. 

Met up with everyone for tea, possibly Dads first curry, and to say our farewells as we head home tomorrow. It’s been a wonderful 5 days back on the island 47 years since we left.  

Bagging more Wainwrights and supporting the Lakeland 100

Tuesday 22nd July 25 Chasing Wainwrights in the Western Lake District with Andy, the perfect way to celebrate 9 years of wedded bliss. Yewbarrow, Red Pike, Steeple, Haycock, Seatallan, Middle Fell and Buckbarrow. Most were hidden views due to low cloud but then we were gifted with wonderful views all around. Damp air but no rain. 

Bettys Fat Rascals for breakfast and fondant fancies post run. Lovely surprises from Andy.  Pub grub and relax. 13.86 miles, 1,637m of ascent. 6 hours 6 minutes

Wednesday 23rd July Brighter day with views when we started along the screes of the south side of Wast Water. Long slog up Lingmell with memories of that slog on a GL3D event. Scafell Pike was very busy and covered in cloud we were soon out of the cloud and doing the awkward scramble up Sca Fell, again in cloud! Side trip to Slight Side before a boggy path less trod down to cross the Lakeland 100 route before heading up to Illgill Head and along the ridge to Whin Rigg. We washed our bog covered legs and shoes in the fast flowing river before a cup of tea in the van. We’re enjoying being out in the campervan and finding interesting pubs or campsites. 17.5 miles, 1,900m of ascent in 8 hours 22. 

Thursday 24th July Wall to wall sunshine! Gentle start from Coniston initially and up Home Fell with great views across to Scafell Pike. Then the long hot slog up Wetherlam. Great views all around. Lots of down then we joined the Lakeland 100 route into town. Struggled to find a new dairy in Coniston so made do with Windermere ice cream co very tasty raspberry cheesecake. Now sat waiting for registration to open tomorrow morning for the Lakeland 100 as we help the Open Tracking team out. 10.21 miles, 1,016m of ascent, 4 hours. Pizza at The Yewtree with the Open Tracking team.

 

Friday 25th to Sunday 27th. Busy but fun weekend volunteering with Open Tracking at the Lakeland 100 with Andy. Long day at registration taping trackers on or taking photos for the athletes profiles. Wasdale then Kentmere check points setting up WiFi, video link, tracking TV screen and sadly removing trackers and retiring runners. Always sad to be on that side of the deal but we tried hard to ensure people were stopping for the right reasons. 

Didn’t take many photos but enjoyed brief chats with lots of runners especially helping them know the progress of their friends. 

10 years since we last ran it!

The weekend was fuelled by pizza and ice cream of course and very little sleep!

189. Hardwolds 40. Saturday 5th July 25.

Hardwolds 40, 46.38 miles, 1,536 m of ascent, 10:33:26, 49th of 109. 18th lady, 7th over 50 although 2 over 60 ladies finished before me. 119th ultra.

We always run together to support each other and enjoy our day out. As usual Andy was a head of me at the start as we ran along the flat 8 or so miles of the old railway line. He’s better at chatting to people and therefore gets pulled along. I just plodded at about 5 miles an hour and didn’t mind the feeling of being constantly overtaken, I know people go off too fast and we often catch them later. Eventually we were on the Wolds Way and although I didn’t recognise where we were at first we were soon on familiar territory with gorgeous farmland and views. So many colourful butterflies too. 

It was warm, the breeze when it came was very welcome. There seemed to be dark clouds all around us but we ran most of the day in a halo of sunshine. I kept drinking knowing I wanted to have a 500ml bottle every hour, luckily the checkpoints with water were every 4 to 8 miles so I always made sure I had 2 full bottles, initially with electrolytes, then coke and later orange squash with more electrolytes. I didn’t ever fill my 3rd bottle but was grateful to Stephen Kirk for filling my bottle when I was running low. I also kept eating well before I felt hungry. I nibbled on a bar or snack every hour and took bits from the checkpoints. At the start I wondered if I’d brought too much food knowing there were lots of checkpoints but I had the right amount really. I knew I’d go off the sweet ones quickly so started with my naked, cliff and chia charge protein bars. Then enjoyed chunks of cheese and snack-a-jacks. We shared a cheese and onion pasty as usual it was then that I realised Andy was starting to struggle as he acknowledged he’d really needed to eat. I’m usually stronger on the climbs and I have the advantage of my recent altitude training from the Mont Blanc hike but he wasn’t much quicker on the downs. I tried to encourage him to go in front as I know he finds it more motivating than being behind me. I kept creeping in front. By Fridaythorpe and 26.5 miles completed he suggested I went ahead. He could see I was strong and he was struggling with staying with me so needed to race his own way. I struggled with this as I wanted to be there to support him but knew I’d be adding pressure on him. 

I was delighted when he arrived at Thixendale checkpoint soon after me, as I sat munching pizza and thought we’d be leaving together but he handed me the van keys! I reluctantly left without him.

At Wharram Percy I caught 2 runners I’d kept seeing, Gemma and David, it’s great to meet new people. They’d been walking and chatting. David stopped with his support crew and Gemma and I ran on together. She was meant to be running with her dad but had left him at Millington and he had the GPX so she was relying on others plus checking her tracker if she wasn’t sure of the route. I explained what was coming up as she pulled ahead but again she slowed to walk a little so we ended up doing most of the last 12 miles together, with David from time to time. 

I realised I was starting to make up time a little and was getting closer to Andy’s times from when he ran the race in 2022. I started to wonder if I could beat his time although I wasn’t sure exactly what it was, my timing sheet said 10 hours 30. I knew from Settrington Beacon, the last checkpoint, it was mostly downhill or flat and as my foot wasn’t hurting I didn’t hold back on the road descent. I’d forgotten about the intricacies of the final sections as we looked for the yellow tape in the narrow pathways disappearing through hedges then tree roots making the ground uneven when we’d been used to tarmac or good tracks. Route finding through Malton wasn’t straight forward and we felt cheeky overtaking a few people as we ‘sprinted’ to the finish. I was delighted with 10:33:26, 8 minutes slower than Andy in 2022. 46.38 miles, 1,536 m of ascent. I was 49th of 107. 18th lady and 7th FV50 but was also beaten by 2 ladies over 60!!

I had time to eat and shower and be there to see Andy finish 11:25:24 spot on our 4 mile an hour schedule. The heat and not wanting to eat had hit him but it was a great result. 64th of 107. 

Lovely event, great support from other runners, crews and the marshals as always. Next stop the 60!

Tour de Mont Blanc with Anna Keys 15th to 20th June 25.

Sunday 15th June. 

Chamonix to Les Contamines-Montjoie. 17.4 miles, 1,657m of climb. 7 hours 49. Highest point 2,120m. 

Lovely day today.  Really warm at times but plenty of shade on the 2 big climbs. Lovely views beneath the snow topped mountains, pretty flowers and lots of tweeting birds. Got up to the snow line before Col de Tricot (2,120 m) but there were just patches around us. A few splashes of rain on the descent but we were too warm and sweaty to bother with rain jackets. 

We managed a steady pace all day and just seemed to keep overtaking people all day despite lots of stops. Quite a few coming towards us. Some big tour groups but mostly small groups. A variety of languages around us, we tend to go for the ‘Good morning’ greeting as we often find people say Bonjour but turn out to be English speakers. 

Very different route to the start of the UTMB after the first main climb out of Les Houches which surprised me. 

Managed to find an ice cream just as we arrived in Les Contamines-Montjoie which is where we are staying tonight. Vanilla macadamia. Vanilla ice cream marbled with caramel sauce and caramelized macadamia nut pieces. Very sweet just perfectly delicious with lots of nuts!

We’re staying in a cosy mountain hut. Mixed dormitory rooms, they provide tea and breakfast. Excellent nutritional vegetable meal for me. Tired and happy. 

Monday 16th June 

Les Contamines Montjoie to Les Chapieux 12.57miles, 1,413m of ascent. 6 hours. 2,498m highest point. 

Hot night as someone kept shutting the dorm door and there were 6 of us in a small room. Basic breakfast of cereal, bread, jam and cheese. I read that it was worth bringing a jar of peanut butter so I was pleased to have that. 

A misty morning with low clouds hiding the mountain tops. A brisk walk along the valley bottom. We passed an ice cream place but it was shut! We reached Notre Dame de la Gorge church and the climb started up a rocky road. A couple of 4×4’s came down it. We crossed a bridge with a deep gushing gorge beneath. At the Refuge de Nant Borrant I spotted they sold ice cream. We both needed toilets so I didn’t feel bad using them when I realised they had a brand and flavour I’d not had before. Crème Glacee, a very rich sharp blackcurrant. A long lasting flavour just perfect but a tiny portion, I guess I can’t complain when I was half way up a mountain!

On up the gently climbing path suddenly we were out of the trees with occasional views of the col ahead as the clouds blew across. We’d been warned we might need microspikes to cross the snow sections but they were short and not icy. Fantastic views from the Col du Bonhomme at 2,329m of the next range of mountains. On and up to Col de la Croix du  Bonhomme Pass at 2,498m from here we could have gone higher for good views over Mont Blanc but it was off our route for the day plus we knew the views would be obscured. Down to the Bonhomme hut were we stopped to use the environmentally friendly toilets and on down to Les Chapieux which never seemed to arrive especially as the GPS thought the day should be a mile shorter. 

Gorgeous sunny day. Loads more of colourful flavours on the way down. Saw a marmot briefly. Loads of people out on the trail especially large tour groups. 

Les Chambres du Soleil hostel but a 3 bedded room this time. A Ukrainian lass is sharing with us. She’s been hiking on her own doing various trails around the area. Very adventurous. Showers, clothes washing and rest! Anna celebrated day 2 with wine before a vegetarian lasagna with lots of bread and cheese and sadly a chocolate pudding. It was only just gone 8pm but I was rest for bed!

Tuesday 17th June

Les Chapieux to Courmayeur

19.18 miles, 8:46:20. 1,677m of ascent.  

Highest point Col de la Seigne 2,515 m. 

Basic breakfast again. On the trail just after 8. Stunning day with wall to wall blue sky. Cool but perfect to start with as we were in the valley but rose up into the sun as we zigzaggged up to the Col de la Seigne at 2515m and into Italy for great views of a snowy Mont Blanc. We were over taken by a cyclist but it was mostly us overtaking heavily laden hikers. A few streams to cross. I just walked through them and enjoyed having cold wet feet. 

The path has been wide and well marked with occasional snowy sections which are easy to cross without microspikes. 

A zigzag path down to Lake Combal and I was pleased to be recognising the UTMB route. I knew we had another stiff climb up to Col Chécrouit 1,952 m. The views of the Mont Blanc massif were stunning. Waterfalls from the glaciers tumbled down across the grey and red rocks. We couldn’t rush because of the heat and lack of shade so we happy enjoyed it all with lots of stops.   Marmots, colourful flowers and butterflies plus the tuneful cuckoos kept us company as we walked across the meadows. We were seeing less people on the trail but quite a few runners. 

We could see huts in the distance and I knew we were aiming for one before the big drop to Courmayeur. Finally we reached Maison Vieille Hut and there was free WiFi. We’d had no phone reception since lunchtime yesterday. We stopped for a sit in the shade and more water for our bottles. Then 3 miles and 1,200m of descent down a dusty zigzagging trail. Occasionally in the trees so we couldn’t always see where the town was. 

Nice little hotel. After showers we headed into town for ice cream. There was an amazing ice cream parlour but only one new flavour yogurt. It was delicious, just what I needed. 

We had choices off a menu for tea. He suggested salad as there was nothing vegetarian, I pointed out I’d walked a long way! I got a tiny cheese omelette with green veg. Luckily Anna couldn’t manage all of her polenta and cheese. 

Tired, happy but dreading a longer day tomorrow with more sunshine!!

Wednesday 18th June

Courmayeur to La Fouly

20.87 miles, 9:50:25, 2,176m of climb. 

Highest point Grand Col Ferret 2,537 m

We were so grateful for the trees giving us shade on the 3 mile, 780m climb out of town. It was another scorcher of a day. Our guide book advised we’d have at least 4 places to get clean water before the 2nd climb and we knew we needed to drink more today. Great views of Mont Blanc from the first hut Bertone and up the valley we were to follow. Today’s path was then mostly slightly undulating along the side of the hill for 8 miles. Plenty of shade but also great views of the snow topped mountains, gorgeous flowers and friendly cows. 

We stopped at Bonatti hut along with loads of others. We’d hardly seen anyone today. From here there were more people and large groups as well. After some more undulations the route headed down 300m to the valley floor and Chalet du Val Ferret. You could only use their toilets if you bought something so we got coffees. We were just over halfway at 12 miles and 5.5 hours with a big 770m climb to go. 

I’d stopped on this next section when I last attempted the UTMB race last time as I was getting palpitations and dizzy spells and I didn’t fancy going up the climb when I didn’t feel well. It was steep in places but not too bad with plenty of zigzags. There was no shade and only the occasional breeze, it was hard work. We stopped at the Elena hut then pushed to the top at Grand Col Ferret 2,537 m for great views back up the valley and over into Switzerland. 

There was a massive chunk of snow just beneath the top. The group in front of us had been sliding down and encouraged us. It was very short but so much nicer than trying to walk down it. Nice cold bottoms! 

A few more patches of snow but mostly a good track down. My first fall of the week was on some mud. We paused at the Peule hut then on down to La Fouly on quite a bit of road. 

Maya Joie hut is quite big but we were given our own rooms. We’re not allowed our bags in the rooms due to the risk of bed bugs so had to carry what we needed and leave the rest in a main area. 

Tea was mushroom soup then raclette which I’d not had before. A gas hotplate was lit in the centre of the table and boiled potatoes were placed on that. We had cheese to grill under it. We shared a table with 4 French speakers who all took the skins of their potatoes, very odd. Very nice but still lacking vegetables!! Sadly it was chocolate pudding so one of the guys had mine. Annas was happy yo have my liqueur. 

All in all another amazing day. I drank 4.5 litres of water some with electrolytes. I kept my hat on all day and feel better today then yesterday as we were exposed to the sun all day. 

Thursday 19th June

La Fouly to Trient

20.84 miles, 9 hours, 1 minute. 1,443m of climb. 

Highest point Col de Pórtalo 2,049 m

A little lie in so breakfast at 7:30 and out the door by 8:30. We followed the river down the valley but mostly within the trees on a path high above the river. We climbed 111m but descended 520 in the first 5 miles of the day. 

Another 420m climb up through the trees on narrow dusty zigzagging paths to Champex Lac, Col de Champex at 1,498 m. Anna had a swim. We bought coke plus fruit and a cake but no where had ice cream other than mass produced!

Down through the meadows to Plan de l’Au where they sold Apricot ice cream by a new to me brand it was really sharp and refreshing perfect before the next 

690m up to Bovine. 

Initially in trees but it went on and on and zigzagged up steeply. We crossed one large section of snow, this is the first day we’re not carrying our microspikes as we’ve not needed them, we were fine it wasn’t too slippy. 

Bovine is a remote hut we got water then headed on up to the pass Col de Pórtalo 2,049 mbut there were no views as we were in the trees. 

Signposts tell you in time not miles how far it is to places and we know we will usually be quicker. I guess it’s hard for them to know the exact distance as our GPX watches have different distances at the end of the day. It’s a reassuring way of knowing we’re doing ok as we headed down the 740m gradual descent to Col de la Forclaz 1,527 m then a sign said 30 minutes steeply down to Trient. Our hostel was signposted and very welcome especially as it’s just the 2 of us in a 4 bedded room. 

Vegetable soup, followed by salad then veggie curry! At last some vegetables. Ice cream for pudding! Sadly Anna couldn’t eat all of hers so I helped her out! She really is the best travel companion. 

Another really hot day but more shade. It still felt tough despite us not climbing so much today! The views were mostly of hills covered in meadows rather than mountains, looking forward to seeing Mont Blanc again tomorrow. Really enjoying the whole experience but it is tough. 

Friday 20th June

Trient to Chamonix via Vallorcine. 

21.08 miles, 1,982m of ascent, 2220m of descent. 10:08:07.

Highest point Col de Balme 2,191 m. 

A basic breakfast then out the door at 8. Our day started with a 4.5 mile climb up 960m to the Col de Balme 2,191 m. Our highest point for the day, great views of the mountain range along to Mont Blanc and back into France. Loads of people out on the trail to this point. We then headed down to Col des Posettes but decided not to follow the route from our road book as that would have taken us down to the valley floor and along it to Chamonix. We headed down to Vallorcine where the UTMB race goes through. It was a twisting hike steeply down through the trees. We’d hoped to find food but nothing much was open, we got fizzy drinks. 

We headed along the UTMB route up to Col des Montets and on to La Flégère 1894m cable car station. Lots of people were coming up in the cable car but we headed down under it back to Chamonix on a zigzagging path that wasn’t too steep. We saw an Alpine Ibex which didn’t seemed bothered by us as we continued down hill. 

My feet felt very sore today from lots of stoney paths. The views however were stunning across the Mont Blanc range until the clouds came in. We just made it back to Chamonix and had a Mont Blanc (Vanilla, chestnut, meringue) ice cream before the dark skies turned to rain. 

Another hot day but plenty of shade and breezes at times. 

The hotel kindly put us into a room with a disabled bathroom, nothing like having a sit down shower!

Tea was a very healthy Buddha Bowl for me and pasta for Anna. 

Delighted with our epic week of 180km (112miles) and 10,348 m of climb. I lost one toe nail but no blisters! Both slightly sunburned despite lots of sunscreen. I don’t need to come back and race the UTMB now! 

Hardmoors 110 DNF 2025 31st May.

So it wasn’t to be for me this weekend! I strained the tendons across the bottom of my left foot 3 months ago. 2 weeks of crutches and my physio had high hopes for me getting back to running quickly. I can run slowly with little pain but any speed and the ache comes back. We were sticking to a 4 mile an hour pace, 15 minutes just so we would start slow and keep some energy in reserve. My foot often twinges on the downs but started to ache on the ups as well. I was struggling with the heat, the lack of training as the furthest I’d been was 26 miles since February and really didn’t want to risk a massive step back so I reluctantly did the sensible thing and dropped out at 45.25 miles after 11 hour and 48 minutes.

It was great to go on to support Andy and see so many other incredible runners out there with their fantastic support crews and enjoy the buzz of the whole Hardmoors community.

We had a lovely stay in Helmsley last night and finally visited Helmsley castle!

So it’s back to the exercises and I’ve bought so new insoles. Roll on the stroll round Mont Blanc and the Hardwolds 40.

Hardmoors 110 – Andy Norman

This was a long event so I think it deserves a decent length report. Some of it might come across a bit smug but I’m proud of what we achieved so I’m sticking with it.  

Summary (Spoiler Alert): 

*We love the Hardmoors events, which we may have mentioned before.

*This was a great 110 mile adventure and our strategy & pacing worked well.

*I struggled to eat enough during the hot first day and Sarah made the wise decision to stop after about 40 to avoid injury. 

*She quickly switched to support mode and soon had me eating again and back on track. 

*I finished well.

*This was my 100th ultra-marathon & 12th 100 miler.

Full Report

The Hardmoors 110 is an ultra-marathon that follows the full length of the Cleveland Way National Trail.  I’ve completed this event three times before as well as the Hardmoors 160 and multiple editions of the Hardmoors 55 and 60 which also follow the Cleveland Way so know the course quite well – all those acorn route markers make navigation fairly straightforward too!

The course starts in Filey and heads north along the coast through Scarborough, Ravenscar, Robin Hood’s Bay, Whitby and Sandsend. After about 50 miles, it reaches Saltburn and turns inland. The coast doesn’t have any huge hills, but there’s over 2,400m of ascent (and descent), which means a lot of steps.

We stayed in our campervan near the start and didn’t get up until 7am but still managed to be ready for the 8am start. There were 108 runners and a lovely buzz at registration, catching up with friends before we set off. Our plan was simple: start steady at about 15-minute miles and save our legs for later. We soon found ourselves towards the back of the field, but that didn’t stop us taking a few extra minutes to hunt for ice cream in Scarborough. It wasn’t until Whitby that Sarah found a flavour & dairy that she hadn’t tried yet.

It was a glorious day in North Yorkshire. The beaches, pubs, cafes, and paths were full of people enjoying the sunshine. Great for them but not ideal for running. We refilled water bottles at every opportunity. There were a few basic checkpoints along the way and we’d chosen to run unsupported, apart from a couple of small drop bags we’d sent ahead. Many runners had support crews and they were lovely, often offering us snacks and drinks. Despite the heat, we were on track, though probably couldn’t have gone any quicker.

Earlier this year, Sarah had strained a foot muscle and had only relatively recently started running again. She’d built up with a few short races and hoped to make it through the 110 but we knew it was a risk. A few miles in, she felt an ache on the downhills. Manageable at first, but by 40 miles, after Staithes, it was hurting on both ascents and descents. She made the wise call to stop and avoid a longer-term injury. After taking her water and best snacks, I set off again on the final few miles to Saltburn. Sarah, now switched to full support mode, made her way to the van and planned to meet me later further along the course. I arrived at the checkpoint at 9:40pm. 53 miles in 13.5 hours, 40 mins behind our plan, but still well ahead of the midnight cutoff. From here, our pacing strategy would allow me to slow down a bit. 

From Saltburn, the route turns south, inland and things get hillier. The steep zigzag path up Roseberry Topping is the first big climb, made even more fun by the fact that you go up, then immediately back down the same path. Then it’s further down to Kildale village before heading up onto the Moors for the first time. The terrain here is wilder, and there’s a 10-mile stretch that packs in a lot of climbing.

Darkness fell soon after I’d left Saltburn. Between the moonlight and the streetlights, I didn’t need my head torch all the time. I teamed up with Richard and Nicky. Rich is a good friend & an experienced ultrarunner and was pacing Nicky through his first 100-miler. I stuck with them for a few hours, which really helped me keep a decent pace. I’d struggled with food since mid-afternoon. It had been too hot to eat much and all the water had left me feeling a bit bloated. Still, we made it to the summit of Roseberry Topping by 1:30am (64 miles done in, 17.5 hours). 

Their crew (Jonny and Dan) were further along the route and had offered me a cup of tea. I picked up the pace on the descent and pulled ahead. This felt a bit rude, but I needed that cuppa! As I was scanning cars at the bottom of Captain Cook’s Monument, Sarah appeared from the darkness. I was delighted & surprised to see her but all I managed to say was “What are you doing here?” I’d assumed she was asleep in the van somewhere.

After a kiss and an amazing mug of tea I set off again. There’s a short climb to the monument before a long downhill section to the Kildale village hall. I knew they’d have soup & pizza! This was the last indoor checkpoint and final drop bag but there was still 42 miles to go. It was now about 3:00am, 68 miles done, 19 hours and 2 hours ahead of cut off. I was about 50 minutes behind our rough plan, but feeling better after a short break and some real food. The others arrived soon after and settled in for a longer stop, in fact Nicky was almost immediately snoozing. 

As I set off a guy called Ross asked if he could tag along. That’s pretty common in ultra-running, and I was happy to have some company for the next stretch across to Bloworth Crossing, then on to the Clay Bank checkpoint. Sarah was due to meet me there, and I was really hoping she’d bring me some more food. As we climbed onto the moor, the combination of good company, pizza, the growing light, and natural morning rhythms worked some magic. I was feeling good again. The sun wasn’t due to rise until around 4:30am but there was enough early light for us to turn off our head torches much earlier. We ran well together and reached Clay Bank at 5:40am. 78 miles in 21 hrs 40 and now 10 minutes ahead of schedule! It was wonderful to see Sarah there and not just because she’d brought more food. 

The next section is a tough one: three sharp climbs known as The Three Sisters, before you reach Lordstones (nice café, camping, and a small stone circle), then one more climb and a wonderful 4 mile descent on a slabbed path. After that there are a few easier if rolling miles to Osmotherley before a nasty little uphill section to reach ‘Square Corner’, a car park on the moor and where I’d next see Sarah.

Ross and I set off from Clay Bank at 6am ish and his mate Martin joined as some extra company. The sun was fully up now and it was shaping up to be another warm day, although some drizzle was forecast for later. I felt great, but Ross was struggling on the hills. At the top of the second Sister, I pushed ahead, leaving Ross in good hands and good spirits. He went on to finish the event, his first 100-miler! I had a blast flying down the descents and was amazed by how well I was moving. I even clocked a few sub-12-minute miles! I made good progress on the paths to Osmotherley and caught up with, chatted to and passed a number of runners. Before long I was at Square Corner where Sarah was waiting with Jonny & Dan. I had a 15 min break to clear out my running bag of all bar the mandatory kit and have another tea. 10:00am, 91 miles, 26 hrs, on schedule.

Most of the hard-going has now been completed. There’s one short steady climb from the car park up Black Hambleton hill and then it’s pretty much downhill for 10 miles, all the way to Sutton Bank. The route is also mostly wide, even tracks with only a couple of significant right turns to test your navigation skills. After Sutton Bank the Cleveland Way does an odd 3 mile loop alongside the Yorkshire Gilding Club airfield and out to the Kilburn White Horse. Odd because you can’t really see the hillside ‘chalk figure’ from anywhere on the trail. To make things more “fun” the race route takes you slightly off the official path, down a technical trail to the track below the White Horse before treating you to a flight of big steps back up to the airfield, only to return to within ¼ mile of the Sutton Bank National Park Centre.

A few runners had passed me while I was phaffing with my kit but I’d overtaken them again before the cairn at the top of the Black Hambleton. The food & support that Sarah was giving me was definitely working. I was moving much faster & smoother than when I last did this section during the Hardmoors 55 in March and I was many hours & miles deeper in this time. I say faster but still mean about 15-18 minute miles. My watch ran out of battery at this point so I was running ‘au naturel’ until Sarah came out to meet me with a charger. I can’t say exactly but I think I hit 100 miles at 12:30pm, so 28.5 hours after setting off from Filey.

I normally dread the White Horse loop because on the Hardmoors 55 it’s usually dark, wet and grim. I actually quite enjoyed it this time but only saw a couple of other runners on the out & back section. I arrived at the final checkpoint at 1:10pm, exactly on schedule. This was the first point where I started to consider the possibility of a PB but couldn’t quite remember my previous best time from 2019! Was it 31:24 or 31:34?! I still had 9 miles to go and about 2 hours 20 to do it. That’s about 15 mins/mile, the pace we’d set off at 102 miles ago…

From the airfield the course isn’t too hard but it is fiddly. There are various fields, a racing stables and the village of Cold Kirkby to navigate through. There’s at least one stoney downhill path, some stepping stones across a stream, a short winding road section and then a teeny tiny hill at mile 109, followed by some deep steps down & up in the woods. However there’s also some decent runnable downhill, especially the stretch past Helmsley Castle. But then the final 500 metres are back up from the town and across a rugby field.

I’m starting to think I shouldn’t have put any spoilers in back at the beginning of this report! But rather than dragging things out any longer, I pushed as hard as I could, overtook a few more runners, (sort of) sprinted that last 500 m and crossed the line in 31:24:53 and 9 mins faster than my previous PB. I was 25th from 108 starters, only 64 finishers. Well pleased.

Huge thanks to Sarah who I wish had been able to cross the line with me. Rich, Nicky, Ross, Jonny & Dan also helped make this happen. Next up is the 3.5 mile Rush Around the Rhubarb on Weds.

188. Sunday 4th May 2025 Great Lakeland 3 Days, Day 2 Fellrunner.

Great Lakeland 3 Days, Day 1. 3rd May Saturday. Wainwright course, 18.78 miles, 1,693 m of ascent, 06:08:00, 57th of 153.

Great Lakeland 3 Days, Day 2. 4th May Sunday Fellrunner course, 26.7 miles, 3,156 m of ascent, 10:58:22, 24th of 27, 1st F50. 70th marathon.

Great Lakeland 3 Days, Day 3. 5th May Monday Wainwright course, 17.82 miles, 1,257 m of ascent, 05:27:46, 155th of 166 but we did 2 extra Wainwrights for fun!!

Another wonderful weekend with the Ourea event Great Lakeland 3 Days. Registration and the first night’s camp was at Threlkeld. Great to see so many friends. There are 5 levels of courses to attempt. I did cafe the easiest option last year but we usually go for the 4th hardest Fellrunner as we know we’re not fit enough for the Extreme. You’re given a map and for each course told which checkpoints you need to get in order but you can choose your own route between them, this year is the first time we’ve been given GPS routes before to follow. They track us for safety but we have to dib into each checkpoint to prove we’d been there.

Saturday not knowing how fit we were we opted for the Wainwright course. 18.78 miles, 6 hours 07. 1,693m of climb. Stunning day. Lots of runnable grassy descents which we’re not used to in the Lakes but also lots of big climbs to test the legs. We climbed a few Wainwrights, Bannerdale Crags, Bowscale Fell, Lonscale Fell, Latigg and High Rigg. Wall to wall sunshine made it a lovely day. Arrived at the new camp at St John in the Vale a lot earlier than expected and enjoyed the burgers and fries we bought from the Ourea catering crew. I was delighted to overhear another competitor asking for hot water for their custard powder, an amazing race recovery fuel. 

Sunday we upgraded to the Fellrunner course although after a fellow runner asked me if I was ‘Speed Walking’ the whole event as they ran past I renamed the day to Fellspeedwalker course. I was running at the time!! It was a tough day out with not many runnable descents, mostly technical rocky, slatey, slippery slides so it turned out to be a lot of speed walking. Although we had a lot of sunshine, the wind made it bitterly cold at times. 26.7 miles, 10 hours 58, 3,156 m of ascent. Fantastic views across the Lakes from the Helvellyn range westerly to the coast and east down to Patterdale where we did end up descending to. Striding edge was busy which made it slow going at times but plenty of easy routes to avoid the scary top ridge. We added a few extra Wainwrights but they were all close to the course. Some interesting names such as Catstyecam and Birks. The final peak was Great Dodd and it was an amazing hair raising descent down to camp. Sadly they’d run out of burgers but we managed to be well fed but no custard! 

Monday we chose the Wainwright course which was a lovely undulating course heading back to our starting campsite but via Blencathra a 700m climb! From there we went off route and bagged a few additional Wainwrights, Mungrisdale Common and Souther Fell, before weaving our way back to camp. 17.82 miles, 5 hours 27, 1,257m of ascent. The finishers meal was a delicious chilli. The perfect way to end 60 miles of ‘running’ with 6,100 m of climb and 19 Wainwrights. 

Luckily we found an ice cream in Penrith to celebrate before buying custard and cherry pie for tea!

4 days in Buttermere Wainwright bagging in the sunshine with Pete and Heather. It’s been outstanding!

Tuesday 6th along the shore of Buttermere and up Fleetwith Pike. Over to Grey Knott’s and Brandreth before crossing Haystacks and the ridge to Red Pike. 15.27 miles, 1,498m of ascent. 8 hours 23. 

Wednesday 7th recovery day walking round Crummock water and up & over Rannerdale Knott’s with its famous bluebells. 8.2 miles, 370m of ascent 3.5 hours. Stopping for afternoon tea in Buttermere of course! Pete went off on a longer expedition. Great to meet up with Debs in the evening. 

Thursday 8th Heather dropped us near Loweswater and we climbed high above it and followed the fells round the lake and then along the ridge line beyond Crummock Water. Burnbank Fell, Blake Fell, Gavel Fell, Great Bournemouth and Starling Dodd and back to the YHA. 17.04 miles, 1,644m of ascent, 8 hours 19.

Friday 9th a lazy day 7 miles up Mellbreak, 482m of ascent in 2 hours 47. Ice cream in Keswick to celebrate and a pub tea. We managed 35 Wainrights this week. The last 4 days we’ve done 47.5 miles and 4,000m of climb. 

Saturday 10th Another stunning day in the Lakes. Camped by Ennerdale Water. 

Whitehaven parkrun a steady incline for the first half then faster return but all on tarmac on a disused railway under an arch of trees. 

Parked near Blakeley Raise Stone Circle and climbed up Grike and Crag Fell. Very grassy tracks so easy to trot along to Caw Fell. Not many views of Ennerdale Water but good views across the Lakes. Final Wainwright Lank Rigg.  13 miles, 965m of climb in 4 hours 17. 

Ice cream and pub tea to recover. 

Berlin 17th to 22nd April 2025

Thursday 17th. Walk to Pudsey station, train to Manchester Airport, plane to Berlin, S bahn and tram to Airbnb.

Friday 18th Walk to Alexanderplatz through Volkspark Friedrichshain. Coffee Fellows breakfast.

Walkative 3 hour tour with Jules. Well worth doing. She was amazing with loads of knowledge and fun. We started at the Red Rathaus near the TV Tower and followed her past loads of places including Museum Island, Under den Linden, Memorial to May 10, 1933 Nazi Book Burning, Checkpoint Charlie, Berlin Wall, car park above Hitlers bunker, Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and the Brandenburg Gate, https://freewalkingtour.com/berlin/

Bear hunt. https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer…

Ice cream. Berlin Wall Memorial. Topography of Terror.

Vegan Haus. Steamy Dumplings and crispy avocado. Bibimbap rice bowl and veganhaus special noodle soup.

28,000 steps or 21km.

Saturday 19th April. Underground, overground trains, buses and trams. Hasenheide parkrun Breakfast at Café Bäckerei Bonjour with Craig from Australia.

Stasimuseum. The original HQ of the secret police. I’m sure I have more questions now than before, still so hard to understand why and what happened in Eastern Germany.

Bear hunt.

Ice cream and walk along the river to the East Side Gallery. 1.3 km of the original Berlin Wall where 118 artists from 21 countries were invited to contribute to the longest open-air gallery in the world from March 1990 to keep the historic place alive.

Exclusive Coffee. Lent is nearly over and there was meat in the sandwiches so I had apple cake which was very little cake and loads of apple!

Britzer Garden tulips and Easter festival with fire, Blue Velvets band and fire display. Vegan kebabs for tea. Lovely to walk round the lake.

Ending with a Bear hunt 32,000 steps or 26km walked!

Easter Sunday 20th April. Pump Street Hot Cross Bun Chicken And Eggs to start the day.

4 Bears before breakfast!! Expresso House. Cardamom buns and sandwiches in the sunshine in Alexandraplatz.

Double decker train to Potsdam which was included in our 5 day Berlin Welcome travel card.

We keep seeing pink pipes above our heads. Turns out it’s above-ground water pumping system. They’re temporary pipelines used to divert groundwater around construction sites. Sorry no photos!

Walked to the old market in Potsdam and found ice cream before the Old City Hall and St. Nicholas’ Church. Very grand buildings with lots of pedestrian areas. Walked to the Saint Peter und Paul Kirche and through the Dutch quarter to the New Garden. Lovely big lake with a few buildings on the western side where we could walk such as the Marble Palace, Pyramid Ice House and Green House. The east side of the lake was built up.

Nauener Tor, Cafe Heider where we shared 4 Cakes and a beer, alcohol free for me.

We walked to Sanssouci park through the Protestant Church of Peace to the terraced gardens in front of Sanssouci Palace. Very grand gardens and fountain. Up to the top then headed back to the train station back to Berlin.

2 more bears!

Tram to Kanaan restaurant a fusion of Israeli and Palestinian food. There was a vegetarian or vegan set menu. 7 courses of delicious flavours and textures. Would highly recommend.

Very busy on the tram home, sounds of partying from our room, Berlin has come alive!

28,000 steps and 13 miles of walking.

Easter Monday 21st April. Packed up today but could leave our bags at the Airbnb.

Trams to the start our Bear hunt but they weren’t always where the map said they should be! Breakfast at Lantana Cafe Berlin Yoghurt for me and mozzarella, tomato toast for Andy. Great big coffees.

Lovely day exploring the leafy Tiergarten in the heart of the city in the old West. Originally the hunting ground of the high nobility and now the green lung of Berlin. In the last year of the war, the park suffered great damage in the battles for Berlin. After the end of the war, the locals chopped down the trees for firewood. Trees from all over Germany were sent to reestablish the park. Lots of lovely waterways and statues within the trees.

We climbed the 285 steps of the Victory Column for great views of the Brandenberg Gate and historic centre.

Near the zoo we found lots of Bears. We stopped for lunch at Schleusenkrug. Vegan curry wurst for me, meat for Andy plus alcohol free beers.

We walked back through the park stopping for ice cream and more Bears before grabbing our bags.

The tram stopped, blocked by police cars as we headed back to town to meet Pete and Liz. We decided to walk and were delighted to follow the riverbank. Lots of people out enjoying the warmish evening.

Pete and Liz’s friends Sue and Ant had chosen Italofritzen for tea. Amazing pizzas and alcohol free beers. Complimentary Grapas!

One more Bear before a delayed train and just missing the bus to out Airbnb. What a day!

36,000 steps and 17 miles.

Tuesday 22nd April. Up at 4. Drinking alcohol makes my sleep really bad and with only 6 hours in the Airbnb I didn’t sleep much at all! We were heading for the bus but where we were staying was an airport parking area so we were given a lift with a couple who I presume had just left their car there. We were through bag check before our bus would have arrived. Andy had booked us into an airport lounge at last some vegetables to eat as we tucked into numerous coffees and croissants after a plate of cooked breakfast.

Quickly through customs and speedy boarding to row 3 again.

We had time between trains back to Pudsey so headed into Manchester to see Paddington and I managed a new ice cream flavour at 9am!! Home now and relax.

We saw 40 bears in total but 28 that were the official Buddy Bears.

187. Hardmoors 26.2 Saltburn Trail marathon

Hardmoors 26.2 Saltburn Trail marathon. 2nd February. 28.3 miles. 1255 m of ascent. 6.45.20. Joint 61st of 108 finishers, 13th lady. 5th in age. 69th marathon.

I knew we shouldn’t have finished the last 1.6 miles from the final checkpoint on 22 mile Rombalds Stride with a speedy downhill sprint, mostly on tarmac! We made it just under 5 hours and Andrew Allan didn’t overtake us as I thought he might. I’m usually faster on the climbs and overtake him, as we did when we got to the last checkpoint but then he’s faster on the flats and downhills hence me thinking he’d overtake us. My legs felt much better than expected when we woke the next morning in Saltburn ready to race but they were tired and heavy.

This was my 5th time on the Hardmoors Saltburn marathon, the route has changed a little since the first event in 2013 and I’ve not run the race since 2016. It was a lovely morning with blue skies and a touch of sunshine but it was cooler than yesterday and I nearly took a layer off at the start but I was pleased I kept it on. The route takes us through Saltburn valley gardens then up onto the gentle undulations along the coastline to the first checkpoint at Skinningrove. We ran most of it only slowing to walk on the really steep sections. Just past Skinningrove, after a steep climb, we headed inland across fields making our way back to the top of Skinningrove and another checkpoint. I filled my bottle with coke knowing I needed to make sure I didn’t run low on fluid this time. Up and through Skelton Green checkpoint at 12.5 miles. The half marathon route splits off here and we’d already seen a steady stream of the front runners from that race that had started an hour after us. From here we were on the Cleveland Way and territory we knew very well. We were heading to Guisborough Woods and the steep Roseberry Topping finish descent we’d done 2 months ago but for us we knew we still had the famously slippy Tees Link to climb. The conditions improve every year and we sailed up to the blustery top at Highcliff Nab. The marshal kindly took our wind swept photo and we were on the 9 mile descent to the finish with just a few small climbs still to do. It was a mix of boggy under foot or solid slabs but the weather just made it perfect as I’d run that exposed section before in strong winds and rain in 2016 when it moved from August to February. I couldn’t believe how well my legs kept moving as we knew this would be a tough training weekend but I felt like I was racing. In reality though I was slowing and even though it was mostly downhill it was uneven or muddy surfaces in places which slowed us a little. Andy seemed full of his usual bounce and led the way when I needed that goal of trying to keep up with him as I slow to a shuffle when he’s behind me. We’d hoped to finish in under 7 hours but I’d secretly hoped for 6.5 hours so 6 hours 45 wasn’t bad going. The checkpoints were well stocked but I only took water or coke and a freddo from the last one as I had a pack of 4 triple choc cookies to much through and they were perfect, perhaps not the best nutrition but I was well and truly loaded with sugar. Lovely friendly race. Taped in a few places but best not to rely on that, most people use their GPS watches and that route was enough. Roll on the 55 in 7 week!

186. Hardmoors 30

Hardmoors 30. 4th January 2025. 31.07 miles. 824 m of ascent. 7.02.10. Joint 104 of 161 finishers, 24th lady. 6th in age. 117th ultra.

Fuelled by triple choc cookies! I love the Hardmoors 30, something about a race on New Year’s Day, seeing so many familiar faces and being in the North York Moors. I’ve only not run 2 of the 15 occurrences of this event and it’s changed a lot over the years. It’s now the first Saturday of the year and no longer does a figure of 8 with the midpoint check point being the start & finish giving a ‘drop out’ safety net if needed. We didn’t even go to Whitby this year due to footpath erosion!

The weather forecast for the weekend didn’t look good and I was anxious about heading to Robin Hood’s Bay the night before the race. Icy conditions for the drive let alone for the race, two thirds of which would be on the ‘Cinder Track’, old railway line rather than half and half coastal path. Snow was also forecast for Saturday evening and I didn’t fancy getting stuck on the coast. However, the journey over wasn’t actually that bad. 

We slept the night before in our campervan outside Fylingdales Village Hall at Robin Hood’s Bay. Luckily the public toilets in the car park were open all night and the busy car park was quiet, we weren’t the only pre race campervan. There was a steady buzz of people arriving from 6:30am when our alarm went off. I’d decided how many layers I wanted to wear knowing the temperature was unlikely to get above freezing for long all day. Andy took a little longer to decide but still wore shorts! Kit check and number collection were in the village hall. Lots of hellos to people and we were off at 8am sharp. Straight on to the Cinder Track heading south towards Ravenscar. To start with the track was a rough surface unlike other areas with smooth tarmac so there were few icy patches and the occasionally slippy section, you had to keep your wits about you and be brave. I don’t believe there were any significant injuries all day due to the ice. The track is a gentle climb all the way to Ravenscar which you barely notice until you get a view over the hedges back down to Robin Hoods Bay. The path side bushes and trees made it a sheltered path and I soon warmed up and removed my winterproof hat and ultra warm Buffalo mitts, replacing them with buff and thinner gloves. We both chatted to others as we plodded along at around 11.5 minutes/mile. Andy had done his usual pace chart and we arrived a little ahead of plan at the first checkpoint. Neither of us needed anything so headed on along the Cinder Track towards the Crookness checkpoint. We were now gradually losing the height so were delighted to arrive at Crookness after 12 miles, 30 minutes ahead of our plan. We came off the Cinder Track just before the checkpoint to run to the coast. We’d be returning here after another 6.5 miles and were amazed to hear that the first four runners had already come through, they’d done 18.5 miles in under 2.5 hours.

It was wonderful to be running along the coastal path with a few undulations and views ahead of Scarborough Castle rather than the monotony of the enclosed flat Cinder Track. We were only on it for 2 miles when we arrived at Scalby Mills on the outskirts of Scarborough. The checkpoint crew were delighted that we arrived in numerical order with Wendy, who is always number 8, arriving just before Andy, number 7 and me number 6. These numbers are the order we completed 1,000 Hardmoors miles and we always run with these numbers now. I chatted with Wendy and she commented on how she always intends to train but then suddenly the race day appears! She did well to finish just after us taking the 1st FV60 spot. I said I was still recovering from the Roseberry Topping marathon but so glad we’d done that to get my legs moving again after Dragon’s Back Race (did I mention I ran Dragons Back last year?).

We had 2 miles of weaving through the streets of Scalby Mills to get back on the Cinder Track and then 2.5 to get to the turn off for Crookness and the coastal path again, this time heading north. This was the first time I refilled my water bottle and filled it with Dandelion & Burdock. A nice sweet treat. I’d eaten a Freddo chocolate I picked up at Scalby Mills checkpoint but I was also munching my way through four big triple choc cookies I’d acquired on Friday, two days out of date but still soft in the middle despite the cold. I know it’s not proper race nutrition but they were perfect and amazing.

I was so happy to be back on the coastal path. It was a little muddy in places but very runnable. I love the ups and downs and changing views. The way the trees bend away from the cliff edge sculptured by years of coastal storms. We’d been unsure which shoes to wear knowing mudclaws would be painful with 20 miles of solid Cinder Track. We both had shoes with some grip, my Scott Supertracs were able to cope with most of the mud. Andy wasn’t quite as confident with the worn grip on his Altra Olympus shoes but the coastal path took his mind off his ankle pain, it really doesn’t like the monotony of the Cinder Track. We slowly caught people up, this always seems to be the way and then they creep past us again on the Cinder Track where my average pace slipped back to 13 or 14 minutes/mile however much I pushed myself.

I started to feel colder as we were more exposed on the coast plus I ran out of fluids before the checkpoint so I was starting to struggle a bit. As it was a colder day I really didn’t feel I needed to drink much so only filled one 500ml flask. I kept sipping all day but I felt much better with half coke half water when we were back at the Ravenscar checkpoint, 26 miles done. We’d been taking it in turns to take the lead, Andy seemed so strong to me and often pulled ahead when it was solid under foot. He’d then walk to let me catch up. I seemed to get ahead when it was muddier underfoot but we didn’t have so much of that. We both felt surprised at how runnable the last section into Ravenscar was as it’s the toughest climb of the day although not much of a climb overall there were plenty of small hills to knock your average pace down.

We were still ahead of our rough plan and knew it was a gentle downhill on the Cinder Track to just before Robin Hood’s Bay. Here two friendly marshals pointed us through a field and down to the bottom of the bay and then up the steep road through the village. It seemed so mean to be so close to the finish hall and have to turn away for that final mile and hill climb! At Ravenscar I’d lost hope of us finishing under 7 hours which had seemed an obtainable goal all day but we maintained a good pace and I was pleased to be 7 hours and 2 minutes for 31.07 miles and 824 m of climb. We were joint 104th of 161 finishers, I was delighted. Two years ago, the last time we’d run it we’d taken just over 8 hours. There’s nothing quite like a bowl of chili to end the perfect day out, except the Christmas pudding and custard when we got home of course.

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